altezzaclub

..and how many? I run three, one returns the cable and one on each SU carb throttle. They don't have to be strong, just enough to do the job. Clutch/brake pedal return springs are nice

Blown motor I hear... ..and a replacement from a particularly dodgy and humourous source to get it back on the road... ..only to blow a driveshaft to bits being a clown.. There are a lot of updates to do, with videos even! (and just FINISH Grumpy, never mind a thread! Last seen spitting petrol out after trying to siphon Grumpy dry...)

Meh! No chance of finishing it! Today Steve fitted rear suspension and that is all done, axles, brakes, fresh diff oil, new Bilsteins. We assembled the front struts and he fitted those so we have brakes and Terratrip on, while I sorted steering and wiring. Tomorrow it can go on its wheels and we will drop the motor and box in, so I can start testing the electrics, but its hard to rally a car without doors or front panels! Cie la vie, it will be all go for Bateman's Bay, which is in a month.

Well. we did finally get paint on today! The bonnet looked great scrubbed back to bare metal with all sort of patterns from the paint remover disc. I would've clear-coated it if we had some.. The guards were just wiped with thinners while Steve went over the chassis, as was the silver door- The rolled-on one looked pretty sad, but it will do. The inside went a sort-of dirty white, but I'd had enough of black interiors so anything was better! By mid-afternoon it was all gloss white, and we had picked up an audience who all watched from along the fence. So, now it can dry overnight, being cheap 3-in-one epoxy enamel. Tomorrow I can get inside the car and Steve can assemble the suspension. We started on the new axle seals but got distracted by the semi-locked diff having a binding spot for half a turn, so first thing tomorrow we should swap an axle out and see if its a bent axle or in the spider gears. The axles look fine, but I don't know how much they need to be bent to bind slightly. Steve's dad thought the scrutineers might think the steel post dash frame a bit strange, so I figure we can always cover it in cage rubber if needed. There is just a giant empty space in front of the navigator now. Steve reckons I made the tacho/speedo too high, you can see sweet FA out of a Celica at the best of times, so I'm halfway through a new lower mount for them. A saturday rally looks difficult!

Well! So little achieved..... We mounted up the winch, which went fine- Grabbed an unsuspecting X-trail and hooked it up. We lifted the tray to make sure the wire rope didn't rub on the end of it, and to lower the angle that the ramps sat at. It actually looked very high... The winch hauled it up without a problem, we dropped the tray a bit as the front wheels went onto the deck. ..and we finally decided that this was the easiest way to get a car loaded! They headed off to rescue the Corona and I headed back into the shed to continue the fight with the nav's door and guard. The door is a 'new' one, the body is a bent one with lots of welding and added metal and the guard has been rolled on... Getting the three of them to fit together took the day, We did manage to strip half the bonnet back to bare metal. The spares car is in excellent nick, so I couldn't understand why the paint was crazed through to the metal. It's about 2mm thick, with a second bronze paint under a thick spray-filler layer.. I finally figured it must have been a hail-damaged car, and the repairs were not too hot so they have crazed the original paint underneath as well. Anyway, it will have to be ripped back on all the top surface of the bonnet and one guard. -tomorrow...

you're a brave man..... Still, I've done plenty with old hammers and bits of wood... the wood is just right for pushing but not putting sharp dents in the surface. With a fibreglass car like that you wouldn't want to be around in a crash!

If it was 3weeks away instead of 3days... sure! Steve reckons one day will assemble suspension, fit a motor & box and get it running.... lol! Its all the panelbeating that still needs to be done, and the wiring is nowhere near finished, never mind tested. We will see. Steve's mate Tommy came up to the farm for a visit. He's a keen photographer, so we have some great shots taken around the place. Pete took him up for a ride around in the chopper, so here's the layout- and here's the layabout- Here's the Wizzard and his apprentice... Thanks Tommy!

I drew up a plan on the truck deck, mocked it up into place with a jack and some clamps, and found an old bull-bar in the metal heap. Then it rained overnight! There was enough chalk left to sort it out- The big boy finished at Uni on Friday, so it was straight into welding to finish off from where we were 6weeks back. Meanwhile I'd started assembling a dash, the usual minimalist version.. we cut the dials out of his Dad's Mazda RX3, one that last saw rally action in the mid-80s. I tied it into the steel picket we had holding the pillars in shape. Then I added the ignition switch, a start push button, and a couple of spare switches for spots later on. Today we welded the mount on for the winch, & got that sorted.... because a certain young man was ALSO being typical and blew up his Corona up last week, so we have to drive up to the University in Armidale & winch it onto the truck! ..and here we are. Tomorrow Steve is back onto making the passenger's door fit, I'm stripping the crazed paint off the spare's car bonnet and driver's guard, then we have to make the passenger's guard fit around the door he's hung, AND he has to go and fetch his heap of crap Corona, AND then we have a lot of painting to do.. Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and part of friday left.. and we NEVER get time for testing! more photos tomorrow!

I started in on the wiring with The Girl, seeing she had just finished the Uni semester and had a couple of days on the farm. We stripped the plastic off, unwound all the tape and took out whatever wires I didn't think were needed. Sadly, the wiring diagrams in the manual were NOT exactly what was there, so I'll be soldering a couple back up again! Seeing the weather was great we did some of it on the front stoop in the sun, and it was hot so I took my pullover off... 15minutes later I looked out and there were farm cats all over it! It just took days and days to get the wiring sorted, and there were many interruptions... The little bro's KE55 had died so I spent a day and a half sorting that with him. I'll post THAT story up next week, but I did too good a job and he snapped the rear UJ and dropped the driveshaft while being a typical young man the night before last! Then Nell said her little blue 1960s Datsun ute was playing up so I said bring it over to the woolshed and that was another day and a half gone.. I'll fill those details in next week too. She's most impressed now, reckons its never gone so fast.. but if you're a little ol' lady of 88 and mainly blind,,, well, that's not hard! Anotehr distraction was from Steve's Mum, something we had talked about for ages... A winch!

OK! We're back into it! Its Monday 19th at 11pm and we have a rally this coming Saturday, which we have to be at on friday night... I've been here a week now- When I arrived the car still looked like this. I took a look around the farm.... Steve had obviously been buying shit as usual! A wagon, just 'cos it has a 4AGE A little ol' lady's white KE70, just 'cos it has low KM ...and his little bro's barge is still awaiting the 1J.

See if you can buy a plastic 1/2" angle fitting that goes into the air filter top and takes that front hose. The metal PCV valve in the rear hose closes at idle so any oil fumes then come out of the front hose with its little filter. When you drive, the PCV opens & the fumes get sucked into the manifold to be replaced by fresh air in through your small fitler via the other hose. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=231017930038

Neither of those should be affected by changing the gearbox. The only wiring involved is bridging out the auto lockout, and if your starter solenoid is clicking then you have done that corrrectly, and the other is getting the reverse light circuit working. Have you done anything else to the car at the same time? Was it all working fine as an auto?

Yeah, true as anything! Luckily most say you should lead a good honest life to get to heaven, but they have been behind some giant wars in history. Same as politics, believe anything you like but please don't interfere with my life!

That is to be expected- The legislation and demonising of racism comes from Govt after all... Before a lot of readers here were born I hitchhiked around a fair bit of the Western world, starting by flying to Aussie, hitching up to Darwin, back down to Tassie and out through Perth in the 70s. I met ordinary people who were happy to pick me up and chat, all sorts of people. As a Kiwi who grew up with 1950s Maoris (certainly different to today!) I ended up thinking "Jeez these Aussies are racist!" Then I lived in South Africa for 8years... The people were racist in a completely different way, everyone accepted that a racist viewpoint was normal, and I'm damm sure that giving everyone the vote has not changed the fact that races are different in their cultures. Then after a bit of Europe I hitched around the UK and thought "Jeez these Poms are racist.." So after more than 60years watching this, I'm quite happy for people to be racist or not. For myself, I believe cultures are not equal, even if races are. I'm a "culturist", so as long as you behave like a white man I don't care what colour you are! ..and seeing religions are part of culture, some religions are much better than others. Either way, there is no reason at all for Govts to try and limit your freedom of speech, or force you to think in a certain way. Their ultimate goal is always to have their subjects unable to even conceive of a world without Govt, so they are safely in power... With an election on now, its a great time to think of the incentives behind what the parasites talk about. You can rest assured that anything they do is a false front to making sure they are in the seat of power and you are working as slave for them! Would you voluntarily donate money to Holden so General Motors in America can keep their profits up?

...and you don't get other people running into your precious as they use you for braking, or spinning right in front of you so you can't miss them, or pushing you off the track as make a slight misjudgement...

Google PCV and learn... Positive crankcase ventilation, what the guy got defected for on here this evening. The jetting will run it as is, but may not be the best you can run, either from fuel economy or power.

Have you had it running at all? Have you turned the motor over with a spanner? Might be that the motor is siezed solid... If you've got power to the coil just tow-start it in 2nd gear.

I assume they all are, unless it used to vent to air when it left the factory, like my 1949 Armstrong Siddeley. By the 1960s the car makers were hooking the tappet covers up to the air cleaners to burn the fumes, and then they started actively scavenging the crankcase with PCV systems that sucked the fumes out. I suppose it only ever matters if you try to register the car in another State and someone looks at the engine venting more carefully.

Either of them will need an engineer's certificate as far as I know, so now you're looking at brake upgrades as well. Its nice having the T-series box with it, you could look at a T-sewries diff too before you blow the Borgie up, and a larger radiator. I don't know how the 2T fits over the crossmember and steering rack, they were designed for steering boxes. Its all been done before and written up on here, the 4AGE more than the 2TG, have a search through and PM someone who has done it...

The yellow dotted line has the PCV valve in. It gets sucked shut under hard vacuum, (at idle and very-light-throttle cruise) but opens when the inlet manifold vacuum collapses when you accelerate. That lets the greatest amount of blowby (hard acceleration) get sucked into the inlet and burnt. So fit a PCV in the line and T-piece it into the brake line, or thread a fitting into the inlet manifold like I did. Then to replace the air getting sucked out by the PCV (not much) you need a line in, and also to allow the vapours out when the motor is idling with the PCV shut, the other line went to the air cleaner. So air goes in and out of that, depending on what the motor is doing. The KE70 has a can full of charcoal that absorbs the petrol vapour when the car is sitting parked on a hot day, and then allows the motor to flush it back out with clean air when you drive away. So the green line goes to a charcoal canister, it only needs to be a 5mm line as not much goes in and out unless your rings are bad. The charcoal canister vents to the atmosphere inside a chassis rail. I've ringed the charcoal filter in yellow on your picture here... didn't you know what that thing did? Do you have the dizzy vac advance connected??

Does the rear tappet cover hose go anywhere? You can't vent it straight to atmosphere, you'll have to run a PCV to get it off the defect. T-piece where fresh air goes in and out of your little filter into the brake booster line which will recycle the blowby into the inlet manifold. That's the yellow dots in the photo. The other half of it, you might get away with what Reed said and run it into a charcoal cylinder. In theory it is meant to go into the air cleaner so it draws clean air in when the PCV sucks the crankcase clean, and it bleeds crank oil vapour into the air cleaner when the motor idles. Without an air filter box it is impossible to make it work as they want it to, so if you can get away with the charcoal canister then go for it. That's the green dots in the photo.

Just fell across this- video of Honda F1 motor on the dyno. There is a hotspot just outside the head, then the pipe is cooler until they all run together. That makes sense, so the new system of just wrapping the individual pipes and leaving the junction free should work. 1000km trip coming up next week, Orange to Coolangatta to see little bro', then back to Walcha for a few weeks on the rally car....

Obviously a guaranteed good battery, then check the earth from the motor to the chassis and the chassis to battery negative. Check that there's 12V at the starter on the main power wire, and if there is 12V to the solenoid when you turn the key to start. If you have power but no sound, then pull the starter off and strip it all. The twincam would be good, but it would be no 5minute job to get it on the road. Need photos!

On the L16 we bought a half-link for the chain.. The nice thing is, with OHC you don't lose the rocker ratio. Still, I'd go for the largest bore, shortest stroke and smallest head to get high compression without skimming it to death.

He needed it because the cam he would be using was so pathetic at filling the cylinders over most of the rev range so it had to compress the hell out of the mixture to make it fire. The hotter the cam you use, the more compression you need to get it to go at anywhere except at its peak rev range. Using high compression with a milder cam will give detonation problems and make it harder to turn over on a starter motor. They reckon a 4% power increase with each full compression number lift, but obviously it will give the rings and bore a hard time, as well as piston crowns and small end bearings. Boring it wold be a better way to raise the compression, that saves any trouble about valves hitting the head. Then you could use bigger valves and a wilder cam with more lift.