altezzaclub

The throat is skull-shaped rather than circular, and that apparently gives better atomisation. Apart from that the mixture adjuster is the usual, SUs wind the jet down while they wind the needle up. You still need a range of needles to get mixture adjustment within the rev range. Still, nice to have new carbs around without worn-out throttle plate axles and bushes. Four 36mm would do the job, $775 EACH for billets, or $375 each for cast 38mm.

the 5k is hydraulic tappets, so it has a suitable cam and suitable followers. The 3K cam will be ground to solid lifter specs and shouldn't be used on hydraulics. Saying that, I don't know how damaging it would be! You'll run into problems getting the two heads matched too, as far as rockers and pushrods go. If I were you I'd swap the 3K in and build the 5K on the bench so you keep the car running all the time. Get the 5K sorted and turbo'd, then swap it back in over the holidays. Stick to just using 5K parts on it and keeping it hydraulic for simplicity. You'll have to custom make the manifolds. so you can put the turbo/carb anywhere. Being non-crossflow is ideal if you don't want a n intercooler. So the big question is 'do you want an intercooler'?

It sounds like it is working at its peak capacity. Pull the rad out and flush it with a hose while upside-dowm. Blast as much water through the block as you can while the rad and t'stat are out, although a '94 shoudln't be blocked up that much. My 4K had a thick layer of rust particles in the bottom of the water jackets and bridging the waterways a lot.. If nothing much comes out of the radiator, it might be the water pump having corrosion issues. You might have to take that off and see what the vanes look like. Put a nylon stocking over the end of the top rad hose and see if it collects anything once its all been flushed.

Is that driving slowly at less than 50kph or idling?? Maybe the fans are not coming on until the temp goes up enough to trigger the fan sensor, and once they are running it cools down. When you're driving at speed the airflow will keep it cool. Get a real thermometer and put in in the radiator before you start the car one morning. Fire it up and let it idle until it comes up to temp. Compare the thermometer to the gauge and see what 'halfway' is in degreesC. It should run around 80deg.

What part of a dyno shop are you after?? Re-map for afm? Power runs for timing setup? I'm just wondering how hard it can be to do it yourself... There must be data-collecting software that will record air/fuel ratios from the oxy sensor, injection cycles for the injectors and ignition timing while you blast up a hill on full throttle. A smartphone will give you acceleration rates and then power in KW.

That's a good start, especially for the price! All the usual na mods in cam/carbs/exhaust, or going blown?

Running the locked diff will stress and twist the axles and the crownwheel & pinion teeth, so it would pay to keep the locker for fun and use a good open diff for daily. The locker will tend to have bits of metal floating around in there too, the rally car diff oil was like metalflake paint!.

The 5speed is the nice way to do it, but if you're desperate then hit the wreckers and get a pair of taller tyres or 14" steelies off a Corona/Celcia. Rims are $10 each and tyres $20... You can easily work out the ratios involved, I've been swapping through 4.3 to 3.9 with tyres, gearboxes and diffs. I've just gone down to 195/60 tyres which has effectively changed my diff ratio from 3.9 to just over 4.1.

Arrgh! FLORIDA! No wonder you can't find one! Hopefully someone on here has one, or can get some measurements off one and we can see if something else fits. Have you tried you local brake shop? & are the other ones OK? Not worn where they hook on the shoes?

2mm toe-in is normal, its not much with neg camber. Its the only way to spread the strees from the inner treads across the tyre face. If you run toe-out you wear the inner treads to shreds, and if you run neg camber you wear the inner treads away, so running both together destroys the inner edges fast. The Altezza/IS200s are prone to that. Having toe-out on the rear axle is surprising, that will make it over-steery and prone to bump steer. We reinforced the back face of a Stanza live rear axle with a big plate welded across it, and the welding distorted it into arching back so it suddenly had toe-out in the rear. Great fun on dry tarmac, but hopelessly tail-happy on gravel.

...aaand, its a daily from yesterday... The wife got up at 6.30am & said "there's a problem in the driveway.." I checked, and NO PINTARA! Somebody stole her White Whale and it was already burning as we phoned the cops. Some scum stole the tools from the electrician's ute across the road and used her wagon to take them back home, then torched the wagon. Anyway, the smaller tyres do make the KE70 more sprightly around town again, as we've now found out!

Ah- rallying is a harsh mistress... So mechanically its OK, but a new shell and a cage again. It alwys takes longer to fix that you think too! :(

Nice mixed bag of cars... I assume having an LSD puts you into a special class, the most useful item to use.

I look at the cam and my fingers itch for the MIG welder... Just a little spot of weld and a file or lathe would do it! Maybe the motor was planned to be turbo'd! Cartainly you will have to decide on either combustion in the piston dish with the D-shape, or in the head with that 4K head, so replace either the pistons or the head. Should be a challenge!

Ah, some action at last! That's pretty sad about the Weber sock, I didn't expect that to happen. Damm zipties are not up to it! I hope you didn't just tie a bit of cloth straight across the top of the carb! Education is expensive... So much to learn! So, what is your bro going to do with the three cars he's owns when none of them run! ?? Hmmm... so, what caused it to break off if it doesn't get hit by another tooth?? Still, it was a good thing you pulled it out again and checked it! Yep! Working late at night is not good! ..and the floor STILL isn't painted to make it easy-clean! OK, I've got the little busbar we need for the ammeter, bro John is talking about coming down to stay wih me & going to Bathurst V8s, and that all ties in with dropping him back up at Coolies then fetching The Girl .BSc from Uni just as you have your last exams. Then we can hit it! That mudguard looks OK at night! lol!

That is crazy! Did you have to trim and weld the guards under the flares, or just roll them out of the way? You must have smoother roads than we do in NSW! Can you get chrome bumpers over there?

Beautiful!! Definately very rare, I think a few made it to South Africa when I was living there.

Any dramas fitting them?? Same guides? Same length and colletts? Is it a Fiat seat machined into the K head? That would be quite a performance upgrade just by itself. Nice job on the carbs, that one pictured was pretty bad.

Nah, no-one owns them, horrible things! I just wanted to get in before Insanity comes along and goes on for ages about how wonderful they are and how many different ones are stacked up on the farm in various sheds! Personally, anything with leaf springs is horrible! So you've got one of the better ones there, and for what you paid its a good buy. I think he paid more for his rims than you paid for your car, certainly if you add in tyres... You've probably seen his build here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/60067-grumpy-the-jdm-rt104-corona/page__hl__%20grumpy

I saw a few ideas while searching images for dry sump pumps. There are a couple of KW to be gained it seems, a horizontal meshed screen and a scraper, but I assume it would be difficult to fit it all together around the oil pump and pickup. The advantage of fitting the scraper to the block is that you can see it as you assemble it, and have the clearance quite small. Fitting it to the sump means the sump must be fitted in a very exact place each time. I'm looking at taking the next step and running a dry-sump scavenging pump & tank while keeping the stock oil pump to circulate oil on the rally car's 18RG. That clears oil and vapour out of the crankcase completely.

.....aaand.... you were amazed at the difference it made!! Take 5kg off a flywheel and a 1000kg car accelerates noticeably faster! I reckon its one of the easiest and best improvements you can make.

Tyre time... having put a rock through the sidewall of a Bridgestone Turanza, I figured I'd replace the pair. I fitted a pair of Bridgestones and a pair of Falken Sinceras at the same time back in 2010-2011 or so, I figure about 50,000km ago. They are worn the same amount, which agrees with their completely swappable handling! Putting either set on front or back doesn't alter the handling at all. They've only got a couple of mm left before they hit the wear marks anyway, They were 175/70 x 13, and seeing there is a great lack of decent sports 13" tyres I thought I'd try a Maxxis UA603 as they come in 175/60 profile. They're $125 a hit compared to $90 odd for the others back when. This will drop the 3.9 diff ratio down to about 4.1 when on the back. The plan is to run them up to Walcha on the back and check what they do for fuel economy, then swap them to the front for the trip back and see what they do for handling. The longer plan is to replace the Falkens when they wear out with a pair from the wrecker early next year to run all four out together, then decide if we want 14" or not. I figure a lower profile with an aggressive tread and better grip won't last as long as the old ones. By then I will have decided on which diff to use too.

Why don't you use the Y engine?? The 1800cc 7K has a bore to stroke of 80.5 to 87.5mm That's a long stroke slow-revving motor. The 2Y 1800cc has one of 86 to 78mm, so it is oversquare and would rev far better. Looking at them they are very similar, crappy old 8valve side-cam tractor engines out of TownAce vans/utes, and Wiki says the valve gear can be swapped so there can't be much difference in it..

Charge light means the alternator is not charging. Alternator problems usually mean brushes or diodes, both inside the alty. The other problem place is the voltage regulator. It depends upon which alternator you have. It is not hard to strip the carb, but you must remember where everything goes! Take lots of photos or draw pictures of what part is where, and strip it onto a clean bench with good light. You can buy 'kits' with replaceable parts and gaskets in for them, but often you do not need to replace anything.

It'll work upside down OK, but you will have to bleed it the right way up to start with.