altezzaclub

Y/B is oil pressure switch. Black is tricky, they are used for odd things, but the earths are usually W/B. Apart from dizzy feed/coil, I can't think of a bolt-terminal that wouldn't be an earth. Yellows are the gauge feeds and do reverse light power. As fitted to RA40 Celicas! I doubt they changed much from TA22 to the 40 series..

Are you talking the rubber bit or the steel part that is welded onto the firewall?? Quite a few guys just never bother fitting the steel part when they convert to manual. We used one- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58879-how-to-convert-an-auto-to-a-manual-ke70/page__pid__590801#entry590801

I don't think double-rows snap. For the Celica there is a factory method of holding the chain sideways, horizontally, and measuring how much it droops. They give you a limit of wear as a droop distance. Those chains are longer than the 4K, but you might be able to chase that down. Why do you think it might be stretched? I've heard of them rubbing on the timing chain cover until they make a hole in it...

Are you thinking of an intercooler or not? It will be far simpler to blow straight into the motor without the piping, the intercooler and the lag involved. It depends how much boost you want to run. This is pretty simple, but needs that hole in the bonnet- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/43819-ke10-blown-5k-peechs/page__hl__%20supercharger__st__45

Rally it! Drifting is too easy... The shell looks pretty bad to think about putting it back on the road, but a 4AGE and an Altezza 6-speed would make it fly!

Only if you have the front studs in the timing cover replaced with bolts. As it came from factory, the vertical studs going down through the sump stopped the timing cover from sliding forwards, so you had to drop the sump

Can you swap the lower control arms for slightly longer ones from another Toyota, like we use Corona LCAs in the KE70? They're about 10mm longer & take out the positive camber to gives a touch of negative camber, about -1/4deg.

Supercharger- instant power right through the range and only comes on if you want it to. Put a switch on the floor under the throttle. Sounds WAAYYY.. better than a turbo, that banshee howl cannot be imitated! Reed's right, but how much time do you spend driving at the top revs of a turbo car, once you get past the lag at all the normal around-town revs.

We didn't get the KP61 sold in Aussie, so NZ is the best chance for the springs. Have you joined kp61.net?? Are KE70 the same diameter? Plenty of those over here.

Look at your $8000 bank account and think.. "Do I really want to empty that out on my KE70??"

..and the problem was???

...and I forgot to ask- is that new coil a low voltage or a 12V. Most coils are designed to run without a ballast resistor, so they need 12V all the time. The ballast resistor won't feed them enough to perform properly. The low voltage coils are designed to run at peak efficiency on 6 or 9 volts. So long as the guy in the spares shop knew what he was doing.

How's that coming along? Make sure the power going into the dizzy is insulated as it goes through the side. If the clips or wires touch the dizzy body they will short out the power straight to earth. Check it with the multimeter. With the points open and the coil -ve wire in your hand you should get an infinite ohms reading, or certainly a very high one. If you turn the motor with a spanner to #1cyl TDC the multimeter will tell you exactly when the points close, and that will give you the ignition timing off the crank pulley. Should be 8-12deg, book says 8 I use a few more. Put a tiny spot of grease on the cam in the dizzy so it lubricates your new point's rubbing block, otherwise they wear away quickly and the points close up.

Sounds right. Did you check the timing after setting them?

Nope. It needs the points to open and close to give a stepped voltage. 12-0-12-0... That collapse of the electrical current induces the high voltage in the coil windings. The condensor magnifies the amount of current coming and going to give a solid burst to the coil and get a good spark.. You will read 12V with a multimeter or it will turn on a test light at either the 12V -ve terminal without the dizzy wire on, or at the 12V +ve red wire going in if you have that off. However you will only see a 12V spark if the points are open and you put a screwdriver across them. That might give you a high-voltage spark as well.

Welcome in! Your English is better than my Dutch, so I'm glad you speak it at all! That's a nice collection of cars. When someone crashes into the back of the AE101 on the race-track you will have a wonderful engine to put in the KP61!

You could- Unplug the small red wire from the blue one that goes to the capacitor. That takes the capacitor out of the circuit in case it is leaking. Have you replaced the condensor in the dizzy?? If that is leaking it won't build up charge and you get a small spark. Take the red coil +ve wire off the coil and put a multimeter on it, earthing the other multimeter lead.. Unplug the starter solenoid so the starter can't work, and check the voltage at the coil when you turn the key onto "start". It should read 12V then as the coil gets full power. Let the key go back to 'ignition' and it should read 9volts. So, if you have 12v and 9v to the coil, a new condensor and the capacitor unplugged, then any small spark problem is probably within the coil, everything else has been eliminated. That's assuming the points are correctly gapped, as a small gap gives the capacitor less time to charge up.

Yeah, red is ignition +ve, and the extra little red wire goes to the capacitor. They join the wire from the ballast on coil +ve. The blue goes to the dizzy from coil -ve, and the black goes on there too if you have a tacho. The white/black one with the plastic terminal on is something else entirely I think, white/black is usually an earth.

Ok, ignition is all working and carb can spray fuel, so pump and float are working. No loose bolts and no obvious leaks in the vac hoses. One to check would be the brake booster circuit, just pull it off the manifold and put a bolt in the hole with some tape around it to seal it. See if it idles then. The other would be the PCV inlet in the manifold, same thing, block it off and see if it idles. A broken piston in the PCV valve would let air in. It seems like the lack or idle and unwillingness to start depends on either too much air going in at idle or not enough fuel. Does screwing the idle mixture screw in and out in half-turn lots make a difference?? If I were you I'd pull the original carb apart and strip it. Clean the jets and especially the drilled circuits out by flushing petrol through them with a syringe. When you swap the carb back on you can block the rubber vac tube with a rivet each or a big nail, the car should run without any of them working. If it idles OK, just add the hoses to the carb one by one.

Because the points are closed and the power would rather go to earth through them than through the resistance of your meter. Make sure the points are open and measure the power again.

On here you can see the green circuit that runs the car once started, and the red circuits that start it. Both feed from the key and join at the coil +ve to run the ignition, but the 'run' circuit goes through the ballast resistor to drop the voltage for the 9V coil. The 'start' circuit cuts the resistor out so when you're cranking the 9V coil can work well on the battery supply while the starter motor drags 300amps out and drops the voltage to 8volts or so. When you let the key go the resistor drops the voltage from 12V to 9V for running. The coil +ve should have a wire from the key plus a wire from the ballast resistor. On mine the ignition key wire is red and there is also a small capacitor on there to cut down radio interference. The wire from the ballast to the coil +ve is black. The coil negative has one wire going to the dizzy and one going back into the loomb to the tacho, both black.

This suggests you had the coil wired incorrectly. The main 12v from the ignition was on the -ve terminal and shorted the ignition power to earth through the points. Otherwise the coil resistance would stop that wire melting. Check the ignition wiring out and see what happens. If the ballast resistor is broken (you can check it with a multi-meter) the car won't start as you crank it, but will suddenly fire just as you let the key go. Is the fuel shutoff solenid OK??

Use the 36mm chokes if you have them, but get 32 or 34 if you have to buy some. It depends how much of your driving you're going to spend at 7000rpm... Usually it would be jetted with an F16 or F9 emulsion and a main jet of 145 and an air corrector around 190, it depends what the carbs were on. The idles would be good around 40/45, but they may be a size up if the carbs were on a bigger motor. You should just clean them carefully, fit them and fire it up. They will probably run OK, and once you have tuned and balanced them you can chase chokes and jets to suit that cam. Someone on here a month back had access to a dyno with a 4K and found he picked up some power by going down in choke size, I think it was from 36 down to 28 at the end. Its no good running 36s that work at 7000rpm if you can't get any mid-range power to get up that high.

Grab a spanner and check all the nuts and bolts holding the manifolds onto the head before you chase the air leaks. If either action makes a difference then pull them off and replace the gaskets with a one-piece. Did you check the timing when you checked the points? If it is retarded it won't want to start or run. Finally, can you see fuel being pumped down the carb throat when you open the throttle?? You might have a blocked jet or passage in that carb and the original had a different problem. Do you know how to adjust the idle speed and idle mixture screws correctly?? Are there other problems we don't know about? Oil in the water, or it uses water?? Just because its a reco motor doesn't mean it wont't have a blown headgasket. Most mechanics these days know all about fuel injection computers and nothing about 50year old 'K' motors...

That pretty well covers all the ignition, especially if you are getting spark at the plugs. Just check the timing in case it got lost when somene was working on the motor. When you buy points buy a condensor, but if you're getting spark when you crank it all that ignition stuff is OK. Check the fuel cutoff solenoid on the carb, that stops fuel getting into the idle circuit when it loses 12V. It should 'click' when you turn on the ignition. I reckon that is the most likely problem. Take off the air cleaner and watch down the carb throat while you flip the throttle wide open. You should see a jet of petrol from the accelerator pump go down the throat. If you can see that then the carb float bowl has fuel and probably the fuel pump is fine.