altezzaclub

Either of them will need an engineer's certificate as far as I know, so now you're looking at brake upgrades as well. Its nice having the T-series box with it, you could look at a T-sewries diff too before you blow the Borgie up, and a larger radiator. I don't know how the 2T fits over the crossmember and steering rack, they were designed for steering boxes. Its all been done before and written up on here, the 4AGE more than the 2TG, have a search through and PM someone who has done it...

The yellow dotted line has the PCV valve in. It gets sucked shut under hard vacuum, (at idle and very-light-throttle cruise) but opens when the inlet manifold vacuum collapses when you accelerate. That lets the greatest amount of blowby (hard acceleration) get sucked into the inlet and burnt. So fit a PCV in the line and T-piece it into the brake line, or thread a fitting into the inlet manifold like I did. Then to replace the air getting sucked out by the PCV (not much) you need a line in, and also to allow the vapours out when the motor is idling with the PCV shut, the other line went to the air cleaner. So air goes in and out of that, depending on what the motor is doing. The KE70 has a can full of charcoal that absorbs the petrol vapour when the car is sitting parked on a hot day, and then allows the motor to flush it back out with clean air when you drive away. So the green line goes to a charcoal canister, it only needs to be a 5mm line as not much goes in and out unless your rings are bad. The charcoal canister vents to the atmosphere inside a chassis rail. I've ringed the charcoal filter in yellow on your picture here... didn't you know what that thing did? Do you have the dizzy vac advance connected??

Does the rear tappet cover hose go anywhere? You can't vent it straight to atmosphere, you'll have to run a PCV to get it off the defect. T-piece where fresh air goes in and out of your little filter into the brake booster line which will recycle the blowby into the inlet manifold. That's the yellow dots in the photo. The other half of it, you might get away with what Reed said and run it into a charcoal cylinder. In theory it is meant to go into the air cleaner so it draws clean air in when the PCV sucks the crankcase clean, and it bleeds crank oil vapour into the air cleaner when the motor idles. Without an air filter box it is impossible to make it work as they want it to, so if you can get away with the charcoal canister then go for it. That's the green dots in the photo.

Just fell across this- video of Honda F1 motor on the dyno. There is a hotspot just outside the head, then the pipe is cooler until they all run together. That makes sense, so the new system of just wrapping the individual pipes and leaving the junction free should work. 1000km trip coming up next week, Orange to Coolangatta to see little bro', then back to Walcha for a few weeks on the rally car....

Obviously a guaranteed good battery, then check the earth from the motor to the chassis and the chassis to battery negative. Check that there's 12V at the starter on the main power wire, and if there is 12V to the solenoid when you turn the key to start. If you have power but no sound, then pull the starter off and strip it all. The twincam would be good, but it would be no 5minute job to get it on the road. Need photos!

On the L16 we bought a half-link for the chain.. The nice thing is, with OHC you don't lose the rocker ratio. Still, I'd go for the largest bore, shortest stroke and smallest head to get high compression without skimming it to death.

He needed it because the cam he would be using was so pathetic at filling the cylinders over most of the rev range so it had to compress the hell out of the mixture to make it fire. The hotter the cam you use, the more compression you need to get it to go at anywhere except at its peak rev range. Using high compression with a milder cam will give detonation problems and make it harder to turn over on a starter motor. They reckon a 4% power increase with each full compression number lift, but obviously it will give the rings and bore a hard time, as well as piston crowns and small end bearings. Boring it wold be a better way to raise the compression, that saves any trouble about valves hitting the head. Then you could use bigger valves and a wilder cam with more lift.

because the 5th gear is outside the gearbox in the tailshaft housing, and the idler gear shaft has to be longer to go through the rear wall and carry it. They are different in the belhousing front plate that carries the thrust bearing too, now I think about it. Just swap them, as Reed said-

Get the top one in Luke's link, that's what I've got. $10 well spent... Google up on altys until you understand how they work (pretty simple) and work out which wire is which on yours. Then disconnect the wires from the alty and turn the key on. Check each wire with the multimeter to earth and see if the excitor is live.

See if it has 12V being fed in when you turn the key on. If it has then its probably internal... brushes or diodes, both replaceable.

Any way to richen it Creedy? Hit it with an "Engine-start" aerosol first??

To make it all very clear.. The motor noise it makes is quite normal, but you want the motor to start faster?? ...and it is probably your choke problem that makes it hard to start on a cold morning.

They'd turn up.. You could have them in a handle so they're easy to use and with various bits of metal you could start lots of cars...

There should be more wires on the auto than on the manual car, so some you join into the manual box (reverse lights) and some you join one original wire to another original wire (the "start only in park" lockout) Take a look at what I did here, although there are a few variants around- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58879-how-to-convert-an-auto-to-a-manual-ke70/page__pid__590801#entry590801

which will be just as sloppy... Mine is too, its part of the character of the car my daughter likes so much! Is it left to right sloppy when in gear, or back and forth sloppy?? If you've had the carpet & boot off you will have seen what you can fix, and everything else needs the box pulled apart.

Ah- this will give you enjoyment for years and years! Change the valves in the front struts to make the nose come up faster and weld the diff teeth!!

As the clutch plate wears the pressure plate pushes out further backwards at the release bearing, so it pushes the release bearng back, the cable gets loose and the clutch 'takes' higher on the pedal. With a new clutch plate the pressure plate sits much flatter and the release bearing has further to go before it acts, so the clutch pedal takes lower down. Over time things wear and I've fitted a spacer in at the top of the cable to take up the difference.

I'm aimng on cutting each 30kg down to 20 if I can, a plastic window and a length of exhaust pipe welded in under the top of the door. The cage now does the side intrusion bar job at the lower level. They are heavy mothers!

Its never interested me, but I did sit around a dinner table with a guy who owns a few tyre stores and he reckons they pop off the rim too easily, any pothole or hollow in the middle of a corner. He won't fit them from a liability viewpoint. I don't know how wide is too wide. Go for the rally paintjob!

At a guess, I'd say..... nope! Front wheel drives and 4WD have completely different hubs and RWD cars nowdays have wishbones under the struts. The early 1980s were the last of the MacPherson struts. Take a pair of KE70 struts and weld a larger tube onto them if that is what you're after..

Corona RT132/XT130 here in Aussie, not sure about your part of the world. Also Celicas, the RA40/28/23 series. ..and I expect, the TE72 Series Corolla 2-doors. That's a nice-looking Corolla!

So... what does a door weigh Seb??

Road trip!! :D

Is this still how it happens?? So it is fine when started cold (on full choke) stalls as it warms up (on part choke) then fine once it is warmed up... It certanly sounds like the choke is coming off too fast, its not richening it for quite long enough. Next time it stalls leap out and check the choke,see if it is completely off or partly off. Did you have success with turning the choke bi-metallic mechanism?? That will determine how long the choke stays on for. The choke throttle screw determines how high the idle is while its on choke.

Just make one... They will be around, but you'll probably need a parts place who supply garages with their bits, like my local Mid-State Spares, rather than Repco or Supa-Cheap. I could walk in there with a sample and go out the back to look through all the stuff they carry to find one. Rub the top housing on some wet 'n dry sandpaper on a flat surface, and do the same to the housing on the motor where the gasket sits. They should both come up with a flat clean shiny surface. If the top bit looks shitty, buy another one, they corrode away over time and never seal very well.