Willacy70

The car has extractors so the stove pipe and all the stuff associated with it has been removed. I discovered that the car had the wrong coil which I have since replaced with the appropriate one. I've also started running it on 98. For the record, everything replaceable within the ignition system has been replaced. Figure out something today, not sure if its normal or not but the picture below will help explain. The Green line shows the level in the window when the car is running nice, the red line shows where the fuel sits while it is running badly. This is at least what i have observed over the past few days anyway. Also on the first start up of the day, the engine makes a pretty loud ticking noise which by the sounds of it is coming from the fuel pump so I'm suspecting 30 years of service has taken its toll. The noise definitely doesn't come from anywhere else, the old screw driver on the ear trick backs up this theory. So i think I'm slowly getting closer to a solution.

still have this issue. Any idea's?

Here is the setup on my car. As stated it has a GT40 coil, and no ballast resistor to speak of. If lack of this resistor causes the points to burn out, I think I might get new points. Would it be safe to put a GT40R coil in instead?

Thanks, car has a GT40 in it now so ill chuck a GT40R in it and see what difference it make. Will probably change the points while I'm at it. I have looked around the internet at pictures of ae71's and other 4AC powered cars. The coil setup on all these cars incorporates a the ballast resistor. I have noticed that the setup on my car is different. As it is a ke70 it didn't come out with a 4AC so who ever did the conversion had different ideas with the coil setup. Tomorrow I'll post a picture of what I'm talking about. Although the setup doesn't have a ballast resistor, it seems like the system incorporates two separate condensers.

HI everyone, i was bored that other night so i started researching coils and read a few diffenet things. Currently my car (4ac powered) has a Bosch GT40 coil in it. I've read around that this coil is suitable for cars with electronic ignition, something my car doesnt have and that a GT40R is a better coil for the job. Recently i've had a few issues with my car that may be ignition related. So i guess i have two questions. 1. What is the difference between the two coils, 2, Which coil should i have on my car. thanks guys

Thanks for the reply, funnily enough I tried this today to see what would happen, adjusted the choke and leaned the fuel mixture a bit as well, it worked to a certain extent but it still wants to stall or idle at a significantly low rpm (around 500rpm) after long sustained periods of driving. In saying that i haven't driven for a period of longer than 10 minutes or so after the initial warm up. Was thinking of maybe buying some hotter plugs to see if they would improve anything? not sure if its a good idea or not but may give it a go anyway. But like i said from the start, this is only a problem in cold weather which completely puzzles me.

so after taking my car into a mechanic who told me the accelerator cable needed adjusting, I decided to replace the auxillary pump diaphragm in the carby which has improved the issues slightly but has quite fixed it. I think the car floods during cold operation and fouls the plugs. I say this because after 10 or 15 minutes of driving there is no issue and the car runs fine but before this period wont idle nicely. The previous owner told me the carby was re-jetted with bigger jets? could this be an issue? Will adjusting the choke so it stays on for longer improve the issue? any help would be appreciated, thanks

Thanks to the above posters for your input. I dropped the car off at the mechanic today and for the sake of people who have such symptoms with their car in the future, ill post the solution here after i pick up the car. Hopefully the mechanic can pinpoint the problem.

Haven't updated this for a while and though i would make the best of Adelaide's horrible weather. A fair few things have happened in the past 4 months. I have purchased new rear springs and shocks, 4.5 kg ajps springs and commodore wagon KYB excel g shocks which are soon to go in. took the front lip off because i was sick of it. Had a few issues with the engine. Found a chipped tooth on the cam drive gear which was the cause of all the metal in the oil, a new water pump, have had the oil light come on a few times for no real reason and currently i have a stalling problem which only happens during the cold weather. The carby is being rebuilt next week. The rear end set up a week or two after that followed by a few other things. but yeah, the joys of owning an old car and as much as it annoys me i still love it. And a picture for good measure enjoy!

I have tried to adjust the auto choke to no avail. I have realised a pattern though and that is the car will only stall once after a cold start and will run perfectly after it has stalled once. I'm not sure what everyone else thinks but i find this a bit strange. If all else fails i will be bringing it to a carby shop.

There is no issue when the car is cold and the choke is still on. it is when the choke comes off and the car is warm that is doesn't want to idle. It is intermittent as well which is annoying. I will try and post a video later on to show better what the situation is.

Its the stock carb and has an auto choke. As i said It runs perfect in warm weather, but has this idling and staling issue in cold weather. Here is a picture of the carby if it helps anything.

Hi guys, as the topic suggests my 4ac stalls once it is warm while coming to a stop (e.g: pulling up to an intersection). On occasion when stopping, the car will idle at around 500-700 rpm, and other times it will idle fine. I have realised that it only happen on really cold days. During summer the car ran fine and I hadn't had this issue for 6 or so months but it seems to have come back now that weather is getting cooler. The problem is really annoying. I have read the thread about one of the diaphragms in the carby being faulty but I'm not 100 percent sure this is the issue. I am certain though that this is a carb issue. The carby has had a vacuum delete. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

I'm definitely keen for a meet if one gets organised

Just had a closer look at the gears on both the cam and distributor and both seem to be damaged but there is no sign of the tooth that has chipped off. I would assume then that this damage has happened previous to me owning the car (owned for 7 months) and has been getting increasingly worse. Does this sound right? Sorry for all the questions, I'm only fairly new to the whole home mechanic thing. Like always, any help is appreciated