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Willacy70

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Everything posted by Willacy70

  1. The car has extractors so the stove pipe and all the stuff associated with it has been removed. I discovered that the car had the wrong coil which I have since replaced with the appropriate one. I've also started running it on 98. For the record, everything replaceable within the ignition system has been replaced. Figure out something today, not sure if its normal or not but the picture below will help explain. The Green line shows the level in the window when the car is running nice, the red line shows where the fuel sits while it is running badly. This is at least what i have observed over the past few days anyway. Also on the first start up of the day, the engine makes a pretty loud ticking noise which by the sounds of it is coming from the fuel pump so I'm suspecting 30 years of service has taken its toll. The noise definitely doesn't come from anywhere else, the old screw driver on the ear trick backs up this theory. So i think I'm slowly getting closer to a solution.
  2. still have this issue. Any idea's?
  3. Here is the setup on my car. As stated it has a GT40 coil, and no ballast resistor to speak of. If lack of this resistor causes the points to burn out, I think I might get new points. Would it be safe to put a GT40R coil in instead?
  4. Thanks, car has a GT40 in it now so ill chuck a GT40R in it and see what difference it make. Will probably change the points while I'm at it. I have looked around the internet at pictures of ae71's and other 4AC powered cars. The coil setup on all these cars incorporates a the ballast resistor. I have noticed that the setup on my car is different. As it is a ke70 it didn't come out with a 4AC so who ever did the conversion had different ideas with the coil setup. Tomorrow I'll post a picture of what I'm talking about. Although the setup doesn't have a ballast resistor, it seems like the system incorporates two separate condensers.
  5. Willacy70

    Coils

    HI everyone, i was bored that other night so i started researching coils and read a few diffenet things. Currently my car (4ac powered) has a Bosch GT40 coil in it. I've read around that this coil is suitable for cars with electronic ignition, something my car doesnt have and that a GT40R is a better coil for the job. Recently i've had a few issues with my car that may be ignition related. So i guess i have two questions. 1. What is the difference between the two coils, 2, Which coil should i have on my car. thanks guys
  6. Thanks for the reply, funnily enough I tried this today to see what would happen, adjusted the choke and leaned the fuel mixture a bit as well, it worked to a certain extent but it still wants to stall or idle at a significantly low rpm (around 500rpm) after long sustained periods of driving. In saying that i haven't driven for a period of longer than 10 minutes or so after the initial warm up. Was thinking of maybe buying some hotter plugs to see if they would improve anything? not sure if its a good idea or not but may give it a go anyway. But like i said from the start, this is only a problem in cold weather which completely puzzles me.
  7. so after taking my car into a mechanic who told me the accelerator cable needed adjusting, I decided to replace the auxillary pump diaphragm in the carby which has improved the issues slightly but has quite fixed it. I think the car floods during cold operation and fouls the plugs. I say this because after 10 or 15 minutes of driving there is no issue and the car runs fine but before this period wont idle nicely. The previous owner told me the carby was re-jetted with bigger jets? could this be an issue? Will adjusting the choke so it stays on for longer improve the issue? any help would be appreciated, thanks
  8. Thanks to the above posters for your input. I dropped the car off at the mechanic today and for the sake of people who have such symptoms with their car in the future, ill post the solution here after i pick up the car. Hopefully the mechanic can pinpoint the problem.
  9. Haven't updated this for a while and though i would make the best of Adelaide's horrible weather. A fair few things have happened in the past 4 months. I have purchased new rear springs and shocks, 4.5 kg ajps springs and commodore wagon KYB excel g shocks which are soon to go in. took the front lip off because i was sick of it. Had a few issues with the engine. Found a chipped tooth on the cam drive gear which was the cause of all the metal in the oil, a new water pump, have had the oil light come on a few times for no real reason and currently i have a stalling problem which only happens during the cold weather. The carby is being rebuilt next week. The rear end set up a week or two after that followed by a few other things. but yeah, the joys of owning an old car and as much as it annoys me i still love it. And a picture for good measure enjoy!
  10. I have tried to adjust the auto choke to no avail. I have realised a pattern though and that is the car will only stall once after a cold start and will run perfectly after it has stalled once. I'm not sure what everyone else thinks but i find this a bit strange. If all else fails i will be bringing it to a carby shop.
  11. There is no issue when the car is cold and the choke is still on. it is when the choke comes off and the car is warm that is doesn't want to idle. It is intermittent as well which is annoying. I will try and post a video later on to show better what the situation is.
  12. Its the stock carb and has an auto choke. As i said It runs perfect in warm weather, but has this idling and staling issue in cold weather. Here is a picture of the carby if it helps anything.
  13. Hi guys, as the topic suggests my 4ac stalls once it is warm while coming to a stop (e.g: pulling up to an intersection). On occasion when stopping, the car will idle at around 500-700 rpm, and other times it will idle fine. I have realised that it only happen on really cold days. During summer the car ran fine and I hadn't had this issue for 6 or so months but it seems to have come back now that weather is getting cooler. The problem is really annoying. I have read the thread about one of the diaphragms in the carby being faulty but I'm not 100 percent sure this is the issue. I am certain though that this is a carb issue. The carby has had a vacuum delete. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  14. I'm definitely keen for a meet if one gets organised
  15. Just had a closer look at the gears on both the cam and distributor and both seem to be damaged but there is no sign of the tooth that has chipped off. I would assume then that this damage has happened previous to me owning the car (owned for 7 months) and has been getting increasingly worse. Does this sound right? Sorry for all the questions, I'm only fairly new to the whole home mechanic thing. Like always, any help is appreciated
  16. thanks for the help guys. Not really sure what to do,might drop it off at a mechanic tomorrow and see what they say. Surprisingly the car still runs fine but with the knowledge there is a tooth from that gear floating around somewhere i don't really want to take any chances driving it around.
  17. so i took the rocker cover off today and discovered that the cam drive gear has chipped and damaged teeth. Anyone know how much a mechanic will charge to fix this, really don't want to be spending too much money on a 4ac. On the plus side, everything else looks pretty good, tappets could use adjusting. Here are a couple of pics, Need some opinions
  18. As stated, my 4ac knocks on start up. It is a top end knock and is coming from the 4th cylinder only, sometimes the noise lasts a few seconds and other times 10 or 20 seconds. I would say it has to do with oil circulation as it only really happens when the car is cold. I also think it is linked to the cold weather and thickness of oil. The car is running 20w50. The last oil which come out of the engine was in a rather bad condition. Is this a common thing for 4ac's, not much out there about the issue. Any help is appreciated, thanks
  19. Thanks, haven't been able to find much information else where
  20. been a while and a bit has happened, car is now free of rust. Was a rather simple process and should be good for a few years. all pretty self explanatory, painted in acrylic, had the paint colour matched so when its buffed should turn out ok. We to u pull it to get a few parts, got a new window winder and window and a few other bits and bobs. Have finally replaced most the serviceable items in the car, distributor car, rotor, plugs, fuel filter, etc and had it tuned. Turns out it was running extremely lean. runs nicely now. If you haven't already i suggest changing your fuel filter, it is something that i overlooked for a while. This was just some of the mess that was in the filter, wasn't doing the carby any favours. painted my mirrors and black out some stuff behind the grill, been messing with the badges and took lip off, so much better. have though about painting my headlight surrounds black but i like the chrome look
  21. just using metaltech body filler (fibre reinforced) and bog. Not to sure what I'm going to do with the lip, mixed feelings about whether to keep it or not. haha, thanks man, went down to have a look, ended up driving to ttp, bit daunting with all those v8's around. spotted your car there as well and lets just say, I'm a fan in other news, i have changed the oil again just to flush the engine, still a slight metallic tinge but nothing compared to what come out of it the first time. It has a slight miss every so often so i will be replacing plugs, distributor cap and rotor soon followed by a tune. The water pump is also leaking so that will also need to be replaced soon. Tomorrow i will be getting a wheel alignment as the front wheels currently point in opposite directions and the steering wheel points hard right. Rust repair on the guards is supposedly going to happen on the weekend as well, but we shall see. Trying to get as much done as i can before uni starts and while i still have time.
  22. Hi guys, just though I would try my luck and see if anyone on here knows the laws regarding engine swaps in SA My Car is currently running a 4AC so Do I need to go through regency to get the engine number changed on my rego papers? I picked up an application to change the engine number from the motor reg but I am worried if I lodge it and regency disapproves i will have to get my car inspected and that's something I don't want to go through. Has anyone else registered this swap in Adelaide without going to regency? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  23. If i do lower it i think i will go coilovers and for the extra bit of money, shockworks definitely seem to be the best option on the market. Looking at your panno, I like what i see, compliments on your work. That's pretty much the height i would go.
  24. I have to agree with you on that one, been thinking about doing it ever since getting the car but never really got around to it. As for the height, a part of me wants it to be lower but another part of me likes it as is.
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