redvalkyrie

Forgive my ignorance but is the 4KC an even or odd fire engine? Thanks JP

It's the off season here in the wonderful state of Oklahoma, USA. That means bitter cold and prepping for spring. I'm considering boring my block and fitting over-sized forged pistons. The only place I have found that make pistons for the 4K is Kameari and those are 88,000 yen or about $770 US. They're also 79mm which seems like a stretch in the 4K block. Is there another company that makes over-sized forged pistons for a 4K? Thanks and happy holidays, JP

My vintage x-code 5.6" TRD LSD is beginning to show signs of wear. I've located the correct TRD part number for a rebuild kit--40107-KP611. However, it's listed as discontinued. However again, just because a part isn't being made doesn't mean that part can't be found on a shelf somewhere. I know someone is going to suggest swapping in a AE86 rear and it might come to that...but buying a complete are axle assembly and adding or rebuilding a LSD for it, is going to be big bucks. The 40107-KP611 rebuild kit is listed as being about $150 US. Can anyone lend some advice on how to communicate withTRD Japan or point me to a third party that is good at hunting parts? Any help would be appreciated.

The eight stampings on top of the block appear to be lifter bore sizes. I started the rest of the block prep and on the bottom I found stampings corresponding to the four stampings on the top: 2 2 4 3. Also, in the lower corner there are the stampings 7 7 7 7 7. I would assume these five numbers are the sizes of the five main bearings. I couldn't find any reference to the block stampings in my Toyota K Series Engine Manual. Hopefully, you'll have more luck. I can find references to different sized std. main and rod bearings but no reference to different sized std. rings.

Numbers Stamped on Top of Block Surface? After cleaning the old head gasket from my 4KC block I found a series of numbers. Do these numbers correspond to rod bearing or main bearing size as you would find on a 4age? Are they perhaps ring sizes? Here are some pics to illustrate what I am talking about. I colored each stamp with marker to allow the stamps show up better on camera: From the pics, left to right the top numbers are: 2 2 4 3 with the 3 being closest to the front of the engine Bottom left to right: 1 22 23 22 2

This is interesting info...it's obviously not an issue that everyone has and I don't have an answer. I must say I love my ARP studs because they are reusable and make installing the head much easier for one person to do because they align the head to the block. I became really tired of buying new torque to yield Toyota head bolts. You always hear about too much oil pooling in the head and the HKS oil pressure kit even blocks one feed hole. I do know that nearly every passage on my engine was filled with gunk--even after being cleaned in a hot tank. I made sure to clear all of the passages using various small tools.

Is that an issue only small port heads or both large and small port? I'm actually having trouble picturing this...you are describing the head bolt/ARP stud that sits closest to the distributor, right?

Results! Excellent. Thank you very much!

Sweet! I have three T50s but none have a lever with them...

Has anyone tried adapting a T50 shift lever assembly to a K40/50? If it can be done it would open up more options such short shift kits and easy to locate spare bushings.

I did my 4AGE rebuild in 2005 and it's still going strong. Over here in the States rebuilt 4AGEs have a reputation for not working so well. My opinion would be the problem is with the builder, not the engine. So, take this for what it's worth... Are you starting with a known good running engine or has it spun a bearing? If the engine is undamaged, plastigauge the bearings and see if you are in or out of spec. 4AGEs can have five totally different main bearings on one crank--I've never seen one that had one size for all of the bearings. There is a code stamped on the block--get the Toyota engine manual. It will tell you which bearings came in the engine when it left the factory. If you don't need to turn the journals, order the correct coded bearings from Toyota. Same thing goes for the rods. If you do need to turn the main bearing/journals, make sure your machinist understands he isn't starting with one size for all of the bearings. Meaning, if he turns number one .0020" he may have to turn number two .0040" to get the same size for both. Make sense? And always check a machinists work before putting an engine together. Anything that moves should be balanced including your pressure plate and clutch. Use Toyota gaskets at least on the intake and exhaust manifolds as they're metal compared to paper. Metal headgaskets can be sensitive--make sure both the head and block have an extremely smooth face with no milling marks. ARP head stud have to be re-torqued after 500 miles. If you decide to use ARP studs and a distributor the distributor gear will have to be clearanced. Toyota didn't use a gasket on the oil pan but most gasket kits, except the Toyota kit, come with a cork oil pan gasket. I prefer to use the gasket rather the Toyota sealant. I do, however, coat all paper gaskets with the Toyota sealant--it'll hold the gaskets in place while working, help them seal, and help keep them from going hard. Hope that helps.

So, are those two Aisan carbs on that 3K-B manifold both big single barrels or two smaller barrels for each carb? Anyone tried running two Weber 32/36 or 38/38s on a twin manifold?

I am working with Non-Stop Tuning (NST)--the leading maker of lightweight pulleys in the USA. They've agreed to develop lightweight crank, water pump, and alternator pulleys for the 3K/4K engines. We'll be switching from the v-belt design to a serpentine style belt system. There's a huge range of colors and at the moment the complete set is running $300 US. The price may seem a little high but where else can you get these? NST is really doing us a favor by agreeing to take on such a small project. Several other companies that approached turned me away. So, bottom line--if you are interested post here and let NST know! NST is more than happy to ship anywhere in the world.

I'm looking to have my distributor re-curved. It's a stock 4KC dizzy in good working order. Engine currently features a Weber 38/38, carb base plate port matched for carb adapters and intake manifold carb opening. The dizzy is electronic but features a vacuum advance and retard. I am using the big port intake manifold--it's been cleaned up on both ends. I am also using a set of extractors. As it's sit now--is it worth it to re-curve the dizzy's timing advance? When I add my performance camshaft and reworked cylinder head? I'm still under the assumption that Toyota ignition systems work just fine for most application. So, it seems like just re-curving the vacuum advance would be a good way to get some more power and throttle response. Is this some I can do myself or do i have to send it out? Thanks JP

10 x 1.25. Thanks. I have always had an issue with the fasteners coming loose so I thought I might try Stage 8 fasteners this time around: http://store.stage8.com/p/6925-toyota-fj-cruiser-locking-header-nut-kit?pp=96&sort_selection=recommended They look like they might be a pain to both install and remove but...might be worth it.