altezzaclub

lol- I had to google Godwins Law.... Speaking of debate killers, I see it is now illegal to deny the atrocities by the Khmer Rouge in Cambodia, making the current Govt just as dictatorial as their predecessors and extending the Jewish/Nazi holocaust arguments. When will they learn that you cannot legislate people's beliefs! ...you need a cage full of rats on someone's face to do that!

$14 for a Sharp infra-red proximity sensor, so a pair of those on the cage above the back axle facing down. Drill a couple of holes in the floor and clamp a bit of #8 wire to the diff, one on each side, up through the holes and put an aluminium foil piedish on each wire. As the wires go up and down with the diff, the sensors record how far away they are. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/242 Probably run them under the front mudguards if we can find somewhere safe for them, so they can measure off the front tyre or we'll fit a reflector to the strut. One Arduino board can handle those 4, then another board for G-meter, brake pedal, steering and throttle... and the wife's new camcorder for in-car video.. Ah, sounds so easy!! You're right, its not plug & play unless you put up several thousand bucks!

Its a dodgy area for me, I'm not a leaf spring man- I was thinking if it was too long it would push the diff backwards 10mm and downwards, but you would have noticed when you fitted it and it would do terrible things to the gearbox housing. It would still go up and down for a short while before it smashed something. I had to force the two-piece driveshaft into the KE70 with the Celcia diff fitted to get measurements and that was very noticeable. We cut 8mm of the shaft to get it right.

I've heard quite a few people argue that the walls will be too thin, but I haven't heard from anyone who has done it and had the walls collapse. I HAVE heard of and from people who have done it successfully, and its on the list for whenever I need to rebore the 4K. Then again, I want the 1500cc torque rather than the ultimate high compression race engine, so mine won't get thrashed as much as some. The sonic testing costs about $100 and they measure the wall thicknesses up and down the bore, so you can offset the rebore a mm here or there to get an even wall thickness. ""my flat mate had a 4k bored out 2 1486cc using 1600 mazda turbo pistons, 5k head gasket, valve grind, and f13 cam. went prity good in a road car. not 2 sure what was dun 2 the head in regards 2 compretion ratio but i no its about 9.8;1 "" http://www.club-k.co...d.php?tid=14162 ""previous owner took the 64k 4K engine out of his Starlet, bored it out to 5K, put in new pistons, and used it for about 10K, then he ditched it for a 4AGE. "" http://www.club-k.co...d.php?tid=15972 ------------------------------------------------- ""my bro bored a 4k out to 5k (80.5) so it can be done. BUT you need the right block its a commercial block with siameze bores""""i had a 4k that was bored out to a 5k, completlely balanced, shot peened rods, 11.5:1 compression, lightened flywheel, ported head, 304 deg cam and a 32/36 webber as well as 2 1/2inc exhaust and extractors. it made 56 rwkw's and it revved to 8 (as far i felt safe to rev it)"" joeschmo_57 http://www.rollaclub...4k/page__st__30 Engine specs: Twin solex carbs double valve springs ported head extractors Bored out to fit 5k pistons Deburred block knife edged crank electronic ignition http://www.ae86drivi...rens-KE70-wagon ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ""na didnt have any block problems at all just had to use a 5k headgasket with it. thats all a 5k is, a bored out 4k really.... no problems and u really notice the extra torque. compared to a stock 4k it putts along quite nicely and my mate refered to mine as " it goes like a 4age "" --------------------------------- The 9000rpm 4AGE head 4K- ""Block Sonic tested Bores repositioned and overbored by 6mm"" ----------------------------------- Couple of Club-K have worked http://www.club-k.co...d.php?tid=22491

Yep, you buy shock oil, thinnish oil with very stable viscosity over a wide temperature range. The foot valve should be on the end of the tube that the shaft runs in and have thin circular shims held on with a nut or something, The oil goes through the holes and forces the shim up slightly to get past. There are shims on both sides of the footvalve as oil goes both ways, depending on the shock going up or down. The valve body usually looks like this- Small holes go one way, big square holes the other. Did you lube the bush with soapy water or rubber grease?? I can see it would crush and expand rather than go in, but I don't know how they do it. I assume they push it down a tube the right diameter, a few mm larger than the LCA hole.

You haven't had the swinging mount at the back reverse and jam forward? Maybe the springs have hung down at full droop, where they never usually go, and locked up between the leaves with the weight back on. Very odd, try jacking it back up and spraying between the leaves with WD40 or CRC556 or whatever. Unless the tube is too long and the driveshaft is jammed into the back of the gearbox!

....aannd... Are we running a sweepstake on how much of our hard-earned cash Juliar will give to the car manufacturers to ONCE AGAIN bail them out?? They're not stupid, an election year and a weak Govt has got to be worth $50mil, which still won't stop them from closing the doors later. Govts should have nothing to do with businesses, it just cost the taxpayers money! If businesses can't compete they should go broke and let someone else use that freed-up capital to do something successful. Prolonging the death agonies of these dinosaurs just delays progress into whatever comes next, and progress is what we need.

haha- that's where it started! I linked that up to someone on here for their handling ideas, and was vaguely reading through his datalogging ideas. That crystallised some thinking I'd been doing about watching the suspension travel with a webcam and I realised there is a lot of data you can gather. So, the logger is around $1000-$2000 for basic stuff, and the sensors might add another $1000. You'd need to make some money back off it somehow. I'll keep at it.

By now the shoes are full of oil anyway, so go buy two new slaves and a set of shoes. New slaves are less that $30 each. Start from scratch and get everything set up right. I can't see how a piston can ever come out of a slave cylinder enough to let the seal out, so something is very wrong in your setup. Even with worn shoes and worn drums it shouldn't happen.

I can see there is years of work in it! I checked a couple of parts shops, Jaycar, auto electrician, performance shop and none of them had any idea about data-logging at all. Then I went to the library and spent half an hour in the electronics section learning how little I know. I can see that I need a way to measure movement, I was thinking of the infrared distance sensor, but the transducer would do as well. We aren't interested in the whole range, just the compression really. Then that data needs to be recorded, so the sensor must talk to some motherboard that can remember it onto a phone chip or camera card, so we can take it out later and read it on a computer. The data also neeeds to be clocked somehow so we can arrange it against a start time. We will borrow someone's sports camera and run that at the same time so we can see the road and simultaneously see what it does to the suspension. That is the basic model, the next would be to add pedal movement and steering, with a G-meter. The ultimate chassis logging would be directional readings from GPS, so we can tie it all together and see how we can improve understeer/oversteer, traction, handling under braking etc without touching the motor.

I'd like to record a few things like suspension travel in the rally car but have no idea about how to go about it. I could rig up a mechanical system to get maximum compression over a rally stage, but would really like something to record 10 or 15minutes worth of movement. Then it will be G-forces, steering input, pedal movement.. I can see this will never stop! So, if anyone has any ideas on how you record data, store it and display it later I'd like to know. Farmspec of course, I could go and spend a couple of hundred thousand dollars and buy the commercial packages, but I'm sure ingenuity can do it. My kickoff point would be an infra-red distance meter from a robot shop, so it produces a signal of distance, but then what do I do with the signal?? http://www.robotgear.com.au/Product.aspx/Details/271-Sharp-IR-Distance-Sensor-GP2Y0A21YK0F-GP2D12-10-80cm

You can buy shock absorber oil, or if you're keen you can chat up an oil supplier for something with a slightly thicker viscosity and a high viscosity index. I had some stuff they used on sno-cats in Antartica, so it was a thin oil but held its viscosity very well at all temperatures. That is the killer, the shocks get hot when hammered in rallying and the oil goes thin. Not a problem on the road I suppose. I don't expect you to be able to buy wet inserts new, everyone just uses dry cartridges now. So if you've tossed the original shocks out you might as well pick a KYB insert or whatever and fit it. Then pick a spring that gives you the ride you want, even if it is too low. Once you are happy with the shock and spring rate, then move the perch to where you want it. It will let you use a longer softer spring rather than using a hard stiff spring to get ride height. Then sort out what will bottom first, shock, spring, bump stop... Its all a balance. The twin swaybars would make a big difference! so much to learn about.....

faaaark! Nearly wet myself reading this!! My wrecker is pretty keen... I feel sorry for the girl. In our local paper- http://www.centralwesterndaily.com.au/story/1552621/red-white-and-a-big-blue/?cs=103

Extractors have gone up.. $215 when I bought them today at the local exhaust shop. Still Hurricanes, the only ones available, and still hopeless in design. The 4 ports are not in a straight line, the welds block the manifold washers... better than nothing tho'.

Is the knock at engine speed or driveshaft speed? So is it different in different gears or always the same rate whether in 2nd or 3rd at the same speed?? Does the engine pull smoothly on all 4 cyls? If it misses a bit on one cyl the knock might be from the engine tilting and vibrating as it misses. Are all the engine mounts firm? No chance of it tilting and getting steel on steel under acceleration? .FWD gives the mounts a hard time as they try to counteract the torque.

The KE70 stock wet strut can be easily modified at home. We used to pull the Datsun 1600 ones apart and block a couple of holes in the foot valve, put in fresh oil and stick them back on. If you don't like the handling you pull it out the next weekend and do something more. The little circular shims can be removed or stiffened too. Other than that, I'd say 99.9% of people with adjustable coilovers set them to a happy height and never adjust them. So you can do what we did and reset your spring perch to the height you want and leave it there. That way you get a good spring rate with travel. 520 is pretty low, I think I'm on 610mm. I'd go for either playing with the stock struts (you learn a lot!) or putting inserts in the AE86 struts and using those. I will admit my rears came from the wrecker, I found a KE70 with shiny new rear shocks just sitting there. Really, there is years of research and learning about suspension before you can put something together that gives great handling and ride all at once, so I'd aim to spend small amounts of money in all areas rather than blow a lot of dough in one place like struts. When you know more you add better things, so start with bushes and balljoints and reasonable spring rates. You never mentioned rear sway bars, yet I've gone from stock KE70 to stock Celica to aftermarket Celica with noticeable changes every step. Dirt cheap too, $15 from the wrecker and I stole the 3rd one off the spares car, and now I have great turn-in on corners. Lots on shock rates and shock graphs for tarmac cars on the net, as I found as I was chasing data for dirt use. This guy was excellent- http://farnorthracing.com/

Yeah, old Dattos there, old KEs, old Coronas... Some guys came down for the rally and I met them at the wreckers. They left with a Stanza that had been there for over a year on their trailer. Those photos are very telling! Jeez that Celcia is a big girl! Look at the second photo, its miles wider than a 1600. We will have to practice subtle nudges in the paddock bashers! Still, they were good enough to help when you were blocking the road... The panelbeater has dropped out, so its all on for the Uni holidays as we do it ourselves.- it will be bloody freezing in that woolshed!

That surprises me- I haven't researched wagon diffs, but my auto sedan ran a 4.3, the manual KE70 runs a 4.1, and the Celcia 3.9 I've just fitted is even higher. So you wouldn't pull a load with a 3.9 I thought the wagon would use a 4.1 or more likely, a 4.3. Is it an Aussie BorgWarner or a Jap banjo style? If I were you I'd go for a 4.1 from a manual KE70- If you're talking BorgWarner it will need to be setup for pinion contact in your current housing.. It will probably be easier to change the whole diff, so you'll need to stick to finding another wagon at the wreckers or modify the 5link to leaf springs. I assume that just means weld the leaf mounts on. If you're talking banjo it will be hard to find but the whole diff comes out with the nose section and it will just bolt in to your housing.

Are you going to run toe-in or toe-out? Make the flywheel and the crankshaft as light as you can. Same with wheels, to hell with looking cool, keep them small and light. Every rotational part should be as light as possible to help the motor spin up quiickly, its better than more power. Look like great fun. Have you read this page- http://farnorthracing.com/index.html

You're right Phil, the 65mm downpipe has an area of 32sqcm. A 40mm tube into a cyl has only 12.5sqcm and the 30mm I have on the SUs has only 7sqcm. The 65mm intake is twice what it needs to be, but that makes sure it is no restriction. I don't have any ideas on how long a motor lasts with fine grit getting into it. I suppose the mining industry have the best data, but I have run filters in my cars from time to time for personal asbestos counts, and its amazing how dirty the air in a city is. There is a lot of ground-up metal and stone blowing around.

I supose you can make an airbox that gives a decreasing area as it moves from front to back, so 4 cyls worth of air to start with, then 3 cyls worth, then two.. The side plan will still need to be larger as it goes past cyl 3 to get enough air back for cyl 4, so it will be a strange shape. If you're running 30mm diameter inlets their area would be 7sqcm each, so your cross-sectional area to start with would be 30sqcm. You feed two throats on the front carb and only need 15sqcm to feed the back one. So at cyl 3 it would be 1cm by 15cm if you can't get more than 10mm beside the turret, or 1.5cm by 10cm, a skinny box section, to feed the back carb. Make it our of cardboard and fibreglass over it. Then put a pod filter on the front of the 65mm diam plastic downpipe tube, the same as I use.

CRC sell an electronic diagnostic spray for exactly that purpose. Heat changes the resistance in semi-conductors, and chilling them can make them suddenly work normally. They will still work out-of-spec, or fail when hot then work again when cold. My graphics card dies on a hot day when worked hard, but works after a re-start... must cool it one day! Can you chill the igniter with a cool-box and a handful of dry ice? Just a plastic kitchen container cut to enclose it. Mate of mine used to do that when racing, the inlet system was lined with a dry-ice container to chill incoming air.

"maybe".... I'm sure you "should" register it as a motor change, but they all look the same, and no-one is going to measure the bore and stroke to check. You can bore a 4K out to 5K capacity, so you get a solid-tappet 1500cc, then its a matter of the other mods you want to do. 4Ks are a lot more common that 5Ks. filfrederick put 4AGE pistons in his 4K, so he was out at 1600cc. Torque comes from cubic capacity, power comes from revs, so someone pulling 7500 on a 16valve will always make more power. The manual conversion will be the biggest change you can make, and a 1500cc will mean you don't have to touch the gearbox or diff. A 4AGE conversion means a lot more work and money, as you can see by the number of half-finished ones for sale. Not many people see it right through to a road-registered daily driver.

Yep- They looked fine earlier on, and when I bought them they were 2nd-hand but not very used. I think where the four pipes all run paralell the heat-wrap goes right around all of them, so it trapped the heat and they heated each other up. Where the pipes are wrapped singly up at the head they can get the heat down the pipe and away, so they were still painted up there. I run the car leaner than most people do, and a lean burn is a hot burn, so I don't think anyone else will have this problem. I suppose it might be a lesson for people who fit a carb and never get it jetted correctly, or fit a 4AGE and don't get the injection right. The car ran fine at those mixtures, it would climb hills at 19:1 until I go the boot down a bit when it dropped back to 14.7. I'll put a webcam in there with the next ones, see how red-hot they get! The new ones are ordered, I hope to be fitting them on Thursday and be back on the road.

4K. See filfrederick's thread on his twincam 4K. I'm using RA60 Celica, RA40 would fit, any T diff.