altezzaclub

nah- we don't need to, but we would if it was needed! The ring-nut sits right down snugly in the strut, whereas it was 6mm proud before, and it holds the shock in tight. On the list is "buy new ring-nut" and "prepare new struts as spares" and even "heat-shrink reinforcing collar onto outside of strut top"! but these lists never seem to get finished with a rally car! Here's a bit of the spectator point on stage one. It was the first time I've used the pocket camera on video, so its not very good. and here's stage 4 when I was getting better with the camera.

That is what the aircon load on the motor does. The motor is working harder and the aircon radiator is pouring out all the heat from inside your car, and all that heat goes straight back into your engine compartment. If it goes past half I would worry. Clean the radiator out and test the thermostat. Does it get very cold at night?

I cut 1.6mm off with a hacksaw, checked it & found we still had a bit more to go, and took another slice off. Then he held the strut down on the vice while I hammeed all around the top with a ball-peen hammer! When we put it back together it seated right down and did up tight, the extra clean threads working fine. So we got it all together and headed of. First stage was about 10km, he started car 33 and came off it 25th. I've got a quick, crappy video from the spectator corner, but the comments in the crowd are more fun than the picture.. "Stop stop stop.. Look out! Brakes work good!! etc..." There's a longer better one too, but its 65Meg so I'll have to upload it somewhere. Overall he was hitting 20th-22nd, but did a great 14th place when a slower car wouldn't let him start in front and he was told he wasn't faster anyway. So he took 40seconds out of the guy in the next stage and was allowed past! He was 17th on the penultimate stage but a puncture in the last stage cost 7 places and he ended up 24th of 50-something cars. Another new navigator, the 4th in 4 rallies... he must scare the hell out of them! I hope this one stays, she did everything right & we need some consistancy to do well. So, that strut stayed together, and so did the other one with the worst of the tack-welds holding the spring seat up higher.. he viciously attacked a bank with that one apparently. Only a month to the next one, so much I'd like to do! & a couple photos up tomorrow.

We tapped the outer tube off the bottom end cap, and then it looks like a shock, complete with bump stop. I cleaned the threads up on the strut & the nut, screwed it all the way in and found it went in 3mm more without the tube on before it reached the end of the thread. Obvious solution, I took to the tube with a hacksaw, much to Steve's horror!

Ah well... Steve ran into a little problem putting a Bilstein back in the strut when the ring-nut didn't engage the outer tube to hold it straight, and when he did it up it crushed the outer tube and stripped the thread. After an hour or two of panicked prying the outer tube straight he assembled it all, only to have the nut pop off when they loaded the truck! That's how it arrived in Orange on Friday afternoon, with plans to screw it back in and tack-weld it in place, Woolshed Style! Anyway, we stripped it out and cleaned it. The Bilstein is upside-down compared to most shocks, a very clever idea as it puts the weak thin piston shaft down inside the strut where it doesn't move, and the large strong outer shock body sticks out inside the coil spring and goes up and down. We cleaned up the end of the tube so it fitted the ring-nut nicely then put it back together, but it stripped as we tightened it. The very fine threads on the ring-nut were worn and the end of the strut expanded a fraction of a mm.

lol- philbey is right! The ear-dyno is all that matters! Note how everyone said new 'exhaust' when you asked about new 'extractors'?? The extractors will cost you $200-250 for new 4-into-1 style that terminate in a 2" pipe. Then add the cost of a 2" pipe into a 2" resonator under the passenger's floor, then a complete 1.75" pipe and muffler to the back. The exhaust cost me $350 on top of the extractors.. Works well and sounds nice. It goes with the twin SU carbs and the Crow cam, with a head skim and a bit of port machining. Its nothing compared to any modern car, but it is how the 4K should have come out! Plan the whole rebuild and modification job you want to do over the next year or two, and decide what you can afford. Then work out the order of doing stuff, as some of it means engine out and some is just a bolt-on.

That's a relief! So if Lachie's doesn't leak oil then there is shit blocking it somewhere.

Should be the same principle though- I can't imagine what they have in there that transmits force to the oil pressure sensor and changes the switch. I know mine gets oil in the sensor because the old one leaked! The option of having a sliding piston in there with a seal and it transmits the pressure by compressing the air in front of the sensor.. all too complicated!

Ah- that wipes out most road shocks. They will all collapse downwards very easily, lowering the car, then resist going back up strongly, keeping you glued to the dirt and smashing the bottom of the car. You could pull your KE70 struts apart and re-do the valving yourself so they resist that, which is what we used to do when rallying as paupers. A bit of epoxy in the foot valve made them much harder to go down and stiffer springs kept them up. Later on we bought Bilsteins, the shocks designed to keep a car chassis off the dirt. I've just re-visited all of this with the RA40 Celica rallycar, where the underside was destroyed by the wrong shocks being fitted. I think Coronas and Celcias both have the 50mm strut tubes, which gets you into better inserts if you want. Check the 4WD offroading guys to se what shock rates they have. I wouldn't go anywhere without Corona LCAs as well if I were you. Just look at the Steerfast rally KE30 build for welding.. If you can afford a MIG now, it will last you for years and years over lots of cars.

I can tell you in a week when I get mine running with a 3.9. I expect you would want the 4.1. I don't think you can lighten the flywheel much, they are 8kg stock and they made mine 6kg. I have never heard of a lightened flywheel affecting the engine in a bad way. The balancing is more important, but to do that you have to have the pistons, con-rods, crank and clutch all out to be balanced. So are you going to just hone the bores and fit new rings or put the same rings back in?? You could always ask filfrederick what he did, he build a 4K bottom end that ran to 9000rpm with a lightened crank. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/51097-4k-twin-cam/ If you pick a cam with max lift of 0.4" then you can use stock springs unless you want 7000rpm.

It adds a load to the motor, like switching on your headlights does also. So you will use more fuel and go a little slower, but in more comfort!

I'm not sure if yours is the same as the one I fitted, but it was dead simple to wire in then terrible to drive. If you get less performance from the electronic dizzy then it will be an advance weight problem. Starts here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__45 and links to this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/page__pid__511594#entry511594

OK, who wants to take out their sensor and see if oil comes out when its running?? The Girl's KE70 is up on stands with the driveshaft out until next week, otherwise I'd do it.

4-speed will do, but 5speed is better and a quick bolt-in if you find one. 4.1 is fine, it will suit a 5speed well. I had the flywheel lightened a couple of Kg by the engineers while they were doing other stuff. It makes 1st and second accelerate faster, but the effect gets less as you go up the gears. It depends on how worn the motor is right now. Do you need to rebore it? or just whip the head off for a valve grind? Do a compression test, then squirt a spot of oil down each cylinder and do it again. That will show you how worn the rings are. Once you decide what needs doing to get the motor back to factory spec you can decide what mods to do along the way.

That's good- now take the sensor out with the warm motor running and let the oil push out the soot in there as it dribbles on the ground. A few seconds might clean it out.

Yep- Combustion chamber 31cc from a pipette. Head gasket 79mm x 1.5mm gives 7.35cc Bore and stroke 75 x 73 gives 322cc So compression ratio is piston down to piston up 31+7.35+322 to 31+7.35 or 9.4:1 I traced around the combustion chamber with mm square graph paper and counted the squares to get the head area, then calculated how much to take off. 20thou takes it to 9.75 : 1. Substitute the 5K's 80.5 piston size into it gives an instant 10.5 to 1 compression with them.

Well, I hope the young man is installing struts today, although I know the truck is busy doing other things.. Friday they should be down here in Otrange, and Saturday we are off to the Jenolan Forest for an afternoon/night rally. If you want to watch, it is just South of Hampton, near Lithgow.

I reckon that hole is blocked and won't let pressure onto the sensor. Do the cleaning/oil change bit and get oil to pump out of that hole, then see if either or both sensors start working. You can always take it back and change it after the weekend.

I've just pulled the 4.3 auto diff out and am fitting a 3.9, so I can't tell you if it is more fuel efficient at 100kph yet. With the K50 box it runs at 3500rpm around 100kph, which I though was too much. If you are not cruising at 100kph much, then the 4.3 from an auto is great. You are stuck with the K40/K50 ratios unless you go to a T, which is a lot of hassle for a very small improvement. The 5th down to 4th is handy on a hill, but only adds 300rpm odd at 3000. Then sadly if the hill is steep and you need 3rd you will suddenly go up 1000rpm, so it starts screaming... I haven't found a box with a higher 3rd or a lower 4th to spread those 3 gears. The mods we did have made The Girl's KE70 go up hills much much better than when we bought it. It is no 6500rpm screamer, but has good pulling power between 3000-4000rpm, which is where it is most useful. The 270deg cam is better than a 280deg for that. The next KE70 I get will have the crank lightened, be bored to 1500cc with 5K pistons and have the bottom end balanced. I'll either get inch and 1/2 SUs to try them, or bike quads. This one is great and I hope the 3.9diff will drop the revs at cruising without ruining the pulling power. Take a read through the build if you haven't http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Just take the whole housing off the block and clean it like mad. Hit it with carb cleaner then brake cleaner, stick wire in the holes and scrub it with a pot cleaner. Then wash it in a sink of soap and water and dry it in the sun. There is an oil filter pressure relief valve under the big nut that can come out and obviously take the oil filter off fiirst.

Where is that last rust-hole photo?? You need some welding in there in case you have the inevitable accident. The sway needs the castor rod mounts removed off the chassis, easy enough. Keep at it, the car will be great when you're finished!

lol! Let us assume the drilling to the oil pressure sensor is completely blocked off with shit, and although the pump can push the grotty black tar you have in there through the bearings, it cannot put pressure up a dead end! Poke a bit of wire up the sensor hole while the engine is running and look out for oil coming out!

It should do... 3 or 5psi oil?? Its very odd-

It worries me too. With a new sensor it should go out! and you know the wiring and the light works because it went out when you shorted the wire to earth. Can you get a third opinion from another sensor, it may be the one you bought is the wrong sort or is broken. Then fit a guage or have a garage fit one to check. It may be a problem quite unrelated to cleaning the engine, and the oil pump may be failing!

Aim to strip it down and have it checked over. Its much easier to put a cam in with the motor out and you'll need the head off for port-matching a carb/inlet system. First, gather the parts you want such as extractors and carbs, whichever sort you go for. I use twin SUs, others have twin DCOE Webers or a single DCOE, or quads off a bike, or the downdraught Weber 32/36. Take a look at the builds with each of those and buy whichever carb and inlet manifold first. You might be able to borrow a spare head to work on or even have it all built up and ready to swap with yours. While the motor is out clean out the rust from the water channels in the block if you're not having it honed or rebored. If you strip it completely and have it in an engineering shop they will acid dip the block to clean it all anyway. If you decide to rebore it, have it sonic tested and go for 1500cc using 5K flat-top pistons. Skm the head as needed to raise the compression, lighten the flywheel and get it all balanced, send the cam off to a cam grinder and then put it all back together again. read all this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ and have fun!