altezzaclub

Well done! There was a lot of work to get it so good! So, your Nan thought purple was great??

That's quite a story! Well done- What are you going to do with the car?? I assume it will never be road registered or used in gymkhanas again, and trackwork means a roll cage still to go in. The Pellandini is fascinatng, like the Marcos cars built on Mini mechanicals but better looking! They weigh about the same as a motorbike...

Ah yes, I forgot about the shocks! Not so simple then- You could try checking that one and re-shimming it if needed, but I've never done it. Other than that its easier to get another KE55. That Celica diff cost me $100 from the wrecker, so its likely a KE55 is worth less. You would get one cheaper on here, I'm sure someone has one lying around.. I have a feeling Rob threw one out at Xmas, but we're 850km from Beaudesert!

Yeah I can't see how the batery could cause that, so a carbie kit, or even just a good clean would be a start. Whip out the jets and check them, make sure the pump jet is pumping, and squirt petrol through the drillings with a syringe. Check the dwell on the points (better than feeler guages) and the timing. I'm not familiar with the 2R, but engines is engines and it pays to check ignition and fuel first.

Exactly! Now that you know why I'm fitting a Celica banjo diff instead of the Borgwarner.. I think they are quite difficult to tear apart and fix, as they are set-up inside the casing. So many hours are spent fitting the crownwheel and pinion in and out with different shims on different sides to get the wear pattern correct. I assume that's why I was quoted $1500 to have mine done, and it had to go 4hrs away to Dubbo. The banjo diff core lifts out the front as one piece, so you can set up all the clearances on the bench then bolt it back it. I reckon it would be easier to weld the spring mounts onto a banjo, or certainly just get another non-noisy diff. Mine has done about 150,000km, so Borgies don't last long! I'd love it if someone on here said "nah they're easy.." and put up a "how to fix your diff" thread.

Pass... I think its a two-piece but I didn't really look at it. Steve's bringing an RA40 one down tomorrow with the rally car, and I'll pop down the wrecker and see what is on the car I got the diff out of. (12years later I find this topic again and realise it was finished here-) https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65709-how-to-fit-a-celica-diff-to-a-ke70/#comments

check the pump diaphram is working- just look down the throat and work the throttle by hand. You should see a stream of petrol squirted in down by the venturi. It is meant to richen it when you boot it, so if that is where it is lean I reckon its blocked or leaking.

Did you get them?? I found mine by wandering around the wreckers with a set of calipers, and the front axles of a couple of 4WDs had 5mm longer. A LandCruiser and a Ford something...

OK, swapped them back today, and editied the post to reflect that the KE70 driveshaft has its holes in a rectangle too, just a different size. They both weigh within a Kg of 29kg at one end, so 60kg odd each. I borrowed the new neighbour's glass-topped bathroom scales so didn't want to dump a whole diff on them! The RA60 diff casing is probably notceably lighter as it contains bigger brake components and bigger crownwheel & pinion. Sway bar washers might be the go for the bolt size difference, they are only about 1.5mm thick and have a locating flange punched out of them.

Its the lack of stuff you don't need that makes it simple. No power steering, no aircon, no ECU stuff, no large complicated overhead cam stuff, no fancy inlet systems and no engine covers.. So.. another K motor going in?

Well, any old KEs or TEs worth raiding in there?? That would have been a $50 Celica diff!

Would be ideal! But its only 1mm radius so its a very thin spacer...

yeah I'm hoping!

he RA60 panhard rod is 50mm shorter than the KE70, but even that is not enough to make the KE70 one fit. It is still 45mm too short to reach the RA60 mount. So, a test drive was undertaken with two bolts holding the driveshaft onto an unlocated diff nose, no panhard rod and the bolts sloppy in the mount holes! It was enough to carefully get it up to 90kph and find it is quieter than the Borgy, the brakes work fine, and so tomorrow it comes out while I solve these problems. Driveshaft- I'll try a Celica shaft or graft the rear UJ & flange onto the shortened KE70 driveshaft. Panhard rod- I'll get the Celica one sleeved 95mm and keep the KE70 stock. Springs- Celica rears, RA40 or RA60 or whatever I can find. Bolthole diameter... I shall think about...

Surprisngly enough, for all the differences in the mounts, the diff sits at quite a natural angle when fitted.

The biggest problem is in the pinion flange. The RA60 flange is 10mm longer towards the gearbox, so the KE70 driveshaft pushes in beside it with some difficulty. The KE70 driveshaft goes up with about 5mm of gap, so you can see that it is a tight fit. That will destroy the back of the gearbox over a bump I reckon. The holes in the RA60 are on the corners of a rectangle that is different in size to the KE70.. You can put in two bolts OK. Worst of all, the locating shoulder on the KE70 driveshaft is about 12mm bigger in diameter than the depression in the RA60 flange, so it does not fit in there.

The RA60 spring has a bottom diameter 10mm less than the KE70, so the springmount on the Celica diff does not locate a KE70 spring very well. I'll try a couple of Celica springs for rate and see which is best.

The RA60 has an extra inch between the left and right mounts across the car, so it splays the arms 12mm each side. The lower mounts are the same distance apart, but the RA60 bolthole is about 10mm lower than the KE70. The arm bush width is the same, so an arm fits into either type of mount. However the RA60 uses 14mm bolts, the KE70 uses 12mm, so using the KE70 arms and bolts means they are sloppy in the RA60 mount holes. To use the RA60 arms means drilling the KE70 chassis mounts out to 14mm, or sleeve the RA60 bushes down to fit the 12mm bolts at the chassis end. To use the KE70 arms and bolts I could weld 12mm washers onto the RA60 mounts, or maybe press an RA60 bush into the back end of the KE70 arms.

The top arm mounts on the RA60 are shorter diagoally, so the arm bolts on lower and pulls the diff forward. The RA60 arms are the same lengths as the KE70, except the Panhard rod.

as are the drums. The RA60 runs an inch bigger in diameter.

After the multiple runs up to Queensland over the last year, the diff in The Girl's KE70 is noticeably whining, particularly at 100kph when coasting. I figure it could be outer axle bearings, or diff bearings, or wear in the crownwheel and pinion, all of which are nasty jobs! So I spent $100 to drag an RA60 diff out at the wreckers, figuring it might be in better condition, but certainly it will give a better cruise as its 3.9 instead of my curent 4.3, and its a banjo style rather than the BorgWarner Salisbury style which means there are LSDs for them! Having spent all yesterday afternoon under a Celica in the mud, I spent all today under a KE70 in the shed, and seeing I have found what is needed I will spend all tomorrow swapping the Borgwarner back in... I hate cars! Here's the story- The RA60 VIN plate listed a T312, so a 3.9ratio with no LSD. It was an auto, as was our KE70 originally. Side by side, the RA60 is 15mm wider overall, axle face to axle face, something you can't see when it is fitted. The brake shoes are 40mm wide, while the KE70's are 35mm. Naturally the slave cylinders are larger too,

Well, almost the same trip, work needed in Walcha on the rally car, bro in Coolies, leaking water tank in Kingaroy, so a 6am start (its still dark then, do you know!) and we were grafting on the rally car 6.5hours later, 550km away. Misty through the mountains around Kandos, but magic driving. Next day up to Coolangatta through the mountains again, and this time I stopped to get the road sign.. 65km of narrow winding tarmac with corners down to 25kph! ..and that's just one stretch between Armidale and Grafton! The day after was somewhat more civilised, and the day following going back from Kingaroy, but both times we managed to find some little-used back roads. The final run was 1050km from Coolies to Orange on Easter Thursday, so I gave the twisties a miss and took the inland route through Gulgong. Back roads with no traffic (or cops!) but they are open, fast ones. Just over 12hrs, which makes a long day in the driver's seat. So, 2500km again, but now the whine from the diff is quite noticeable. Not sure if its wheel brgs, diff brgs, or worn crownwheel & pinion. Anyway, I will have to do something about it. It ran between 6.5 and 7L/100km, usually on 95, and didn't give trouble.

Both. Have you got a wiring diagram?? The very heavy cable carries power from the battery to the starter motor, but here are other wires on the battery +ve terinal that go to the fusebox. You must still have that, it is part of the chassis, not part of the motor. Don't forget the shorter slightly lighter big cable that earths the motor to the chassis.

Yeah, there are a couple of serious rebuilds going on that involve rotisseries at the moment, they seem to be the way to go. Some serious panel shaping to take place, this will be quite a unique machine at the end. The surge tank is no big deal unless you want it to look cool. You can see what we did in the rally car build, just something where fuel drops into it very easily and it can run the car for a minute at the most.

Nice work- The engine mounts look great, they turned out very well, and the inlet manifold is stunning.