altezzaclub

Yes, you might be losing circulation by having a wrong-sized hose or junction somewhere. A small hose has become a bigger one and is stealing the water circulation, (throttle body one) maybe in a loop. or maybe what was a large part of the circulation is now going through a small junction and being strangled. Pull the pump and check it. The fact that it cools down when you rev it suggests the pump is not circulating correctly at low revs. Maybe the vanes are corroded and worn away?

Well, I got it all in and its running fine. The next big trip up to Walcha will tell. The story is here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65709-how-to-fit-a-celica-diff-to-a-ke70/

I'll let you know in 12months Dave. The arms didn't seeem to notice the extra 12mm spread, its probably taken up in the play within the bolts. 2minutes bleeding the brakes and they're as good as ever. When I'm on a gravel road someday I'll find out which end locks up. Its noticeably taller geared around town. WIth our 45deg angle parking it takes a litle more to climb up the road camber, and it cruises in 3rd at 50kph unless I remember to use 4th.

I'd say so- flush the oil to get rid of as much shit as you can. The old idea was a 50:50 mix of diesel and kero, you tossed in 4litres, started it up and let it idle for 10minutes. Now you can buy special flushing mixtures. It wouldn't hurt to take the radiator out and flush it upside down with a garden hose. Bits of rubbish sit on top of the tubes and slowly block them.

The final job was to fill it with a litre and a half of diff oil. This is the easiest way I've found. So, brakes are squishy as I haven't bled them, but a drive today seemed fine! Next job, limited slip diff.......

With that in I had the whole thing done. I'd popped the drums off earlier and found that the leading shoe was worn most, so I swapped them around. I'll do a 'How-to' on rear brakes after this. You can see the sway bar now sits at the back of its mount on the diff, the 8mm is just taken up nicely. That's a Celica aftermarket sway, so I've gone up two sizes now. With the Celica springs the ride height was exactly the same as with stock KE70s, 610mm ground to wheel arch. Often I run cut stockies to drop the car to level, but it depends on how loaded I expect it to be.

$230 later I had a combination driveshaft delivered to my door! Note the smaller diameter of the KE70 UJ at the top. and the fat Celica driveshft with the end cut off. He made a collar to match them.

While the driveshaft was away I tackled the panhard and the brakes. The easiest panhard solution is to cut the end off the Celcia one and slip a piece of pipe over it while in the car. Mark it and weld it. It needs to be 85mm longer I think it was, in a 150mm pipe For $20 the welders gave me the piece of pipe that I cut to length and marked, and they welded it in 2minutes.

The KE70 driveshaft doesn't unbolt like the Celica does, so its an engineering job to cut the Celcia rear UJ off and weld it onto the KE70 shaft. That took a week.

I had to put the Borgie back in to measure the driveshaft, so make sure you make a mark in the chassis by the middle joint of the driveshaft and measure to the nose of the Borgwarner. Then swap diffs and measure from that mark to the banjo diff nose. It should be 8mm shorter, as the banjo is longer in the nose, and that is why their different arm mounts all work in a KE70 . You need the KE70 driveshaft and the last UJ off the RA60 and a driveshaft engineer. Two of the KE70 d'shaft holes line up and two don't, and the Celica has a smaller diameter locating shoulder, so there is no chance of using the KE70 driveshaft.

The diff sits in place quite nicely and the lineup is pretty good

Celicas use 14mm bolts, so their mounts have 14mm holes, but the Corolla uses 12mm. Luckily there are old Datsuns with old sway bar mounts on the front suspension, and those washers take a 14mm sway bar hole down to 12mm. I had a few, and then it was off to the wreckers again for a while as there were only two on each car I found, but in the end I had 8.

Once I put the RA60 diff in place I could see the difference in top arm alignment.

The panhard rod would need to be longer than either stock item. The Celica has a shorter rod than the KE70, so they have the chassis mount in a different place.

The brakes are larger in diameter, the slave cylinders larger in diameter, and the shoes are wider. This will take a little more fluid to get them working, but the KE70 pedal is so high it doesn't matter.

The Celica coil spring has a little tuck-in as it touches the diff, so the KE70 spring would be sloppy on the fitting.

The top arms are set on a different place on the diff, but as the diff is a different length at the nose, it works out fine..

The mounts are slightly different in width placement, but the arms take the difference up without a problem. It was less than I thought from reading around the net.

Side-by-side, we gained 15mm in track and bigger rear brakes.

First up was to remove the KE70 Borg-Warner. Its just 5 bolts on the diff, (4 arms and a panhard) the brake line, (stick a bleed nipple rubber on the line to stop it leaking) the handbrake cables, the two shocks and 4 bolts on the driveshaft. My daughter can do it in 3/4hour.

The Celicas have a couple of ratios in the banjo diffs, and a 3.9 would drop the revs from 3580 to 3250. In reality, the tacho shows 3400 at 100kph, but I know that is really only 96kph anyway.

An RA60 was there, I'd taken the rear sway bar of it in the past as it was 30% stiffer than the stock KE70. A check of the VIN showed it had a 3.9, fine for cruising I hoped, and I had that with all its arms and driveshaft for $100.

This really started off last December, when Steve thought he'd bring me a banjo 4.1 for my birthday. It came from an abandoned KE70 on the roadside, and it turned out the reason it was abandoned was that one wheel bearing had collapsed completely and the oil was like metal-flake paint. So I thanked him politely and declined, running the 4.3 up and down to Walcha at somewhere over 1000km a trip. It started to get whiny, so the next trip was to the local wrecker.

That sounds dodgy.. does it lose water at all?? How often do you top it up? What littleredspirit said, or check for drops of water under the oil filler cap or the tappet cover before you drive away one morning. Its either losing water into the exhaust or the smoke is just condensation from combustion. It shouldn't occur when the motor is warmed up.

Hell yes! Its the anniverary of the first time I saw the car and I'm looking forward to seeing how much its improved since then! Steve was running an average of 75% of the fastest stage times then, he's up to over 90% now. The crew will be staying at my place, make sure you look us up!