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altezzaclub

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Everything posted by altezzaclub

  1. altezzaclub
    Stick it on a dyno with mixture & ignition probes. The $80 spent will be well worth it for a diagnoses, then take it away and fix whatever shows up- poor coil, head gasket, ignition condensor, fuel delivery... could be quite few things really.
  2. altezzaclub
    One is a banjo type and one is a Salisbury type by the sound of it- Google them and see what they look like. Toyota used both, all the Aussie Corollas got Salisbury,(Borg Warner) all the Japs got Banjos. Banjos are pressed sheet steel welded together with the diff unit accessed from the nose as one piece, Salisbury are cast iron and the diff unit comes out in pieces from the rear.
  3. altezzaclub
    You'll find a bolt, probably a threaded brass plug, that fits in the inlet manifold to do that. Then just run the tappet cover vent to a Coke bottle with some foam in the neck. You can buy a little filter to fit on that vent, but it puts oil vapour all over the show and that sucks up dirt.
  4. altezzaclub
    Love the rotisserie! Farming spec, probably what we will do at Woolshed Rallying! Put a couple of angled braces on the upright, and make sure you have two long bits of box-section bolted between the front and rear engine stands. I'd hate to be pushing it around the garage and have a wheel jam in the concrete...
  5. altezzaclub
    Let us know how you go- I looked at it a couple of years ago adn just kept running the growly K50. The layshaft (or countershaft) does have a shaft through the gearset, I should have looked it up yesterday, so if the ends of that wear it shouldn't be too expensive. Still mroe than another gearbox mind you! 33311 is the input shaft, which get noisy at idle in neutral. 33321 is the mainshaft carrying the sliding gearset. 33411 is the layshaft carrying the counter gears. These are not in use in 4th gear, & so don't load the bearings on that shaft then. You need 33411A & 33411H, the spacer washers at each end, and maybe the shaft if its worn where the front bearing runs. I'm still planning on doing it one day with Rob, I'd like a real mechanic helping me with something like that!
  6. altezzaclub
    Ah... the REAL education! I never figured out why they have the other notches there...
  7. altezzaclub
    You could PCV that vent and run a small plastic tube from the air cleaner down to the sump or cam chain cover, whichever is easier to drill a spigot into. Most the time the air flows through the PCV to be burned, and fresh air goes down the small tube to clear oil fumes out of the engine. When the PCV is shut then blowby goes up the small tube and into the air cleaner to be burned.
  8. altezzaclub
    Two shafs in the g'box, the mainshaft has the sliding gears on it, which all come off leaving a plain splined shaft, and sadly the layshaft is made in one solid piece with the gears and extremely expensive roller bearings that run directly on the shaft, obviously made of unobtainium... Google image it.
  9. altezzaclub
    Sounds tricky.. will need photos!
  10. altezzaclub
    Is the noise any different in 4th gear to 3rd or 5th?? if it vanishes in 4th gear its the layshaft brgs, like my K50. Otherwise, mainshaft brgs.
  11. altezzaclub
    ...at which time the rubbing block on the points will be just before a peak on the dizzy lobe, turning in the right direction for number one spark plug lead. Just set it at 10deg on the crank and turn the dizzy to open the points then. It will all work perfectly.
  12. altezzaclub
    OK, if you've sorted the timing, lets move this discussion over to here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65301-more-5k-problems-still-no-start-help/
  13. altezzaclub
    Even with the cam timing out a tooth it should still start. Then you only need compression, spark, timing, and carb working to get it running. Which are you missing?? You have 150psi compression that you have checked?? Can you see fuel squirting down the carb from the accelerator jet when you open the throttle?? You have seen the timing mark flash on 10deg with a timing light? You have seen the spark in a plug lying on the motor while you crank it?? Stick you hand flat over the carb for three seconds while someone cranks it then take it off and see what happens. They should have the throttle wide open...
  14. altezzaclub
    How much money do you have?? How much of a conversion engineer are you?? What do you want to do with it afterwards?? Drive it to work? Only use it on weekends and friday night?? In othe words, can you afford $9000 for a different motor or a turbo setup, can you manage to convert it, and do you want it driveable in everyday traffic. Those questions will set up your answer.
  15. altezzaclub
    No timing light?? After you check the dizzy position as Gavin says above & know it is firing number one, turn the crank back to 10deg before TDC. Take the dizzy high-tension lead out of the coil, and loosen the dizzy just enough to rotate it. Turn on the ignition and rotate the dizzy backwards a few degrees then forwards until you hear the crack of the spark in the coil. Do it a couple of times until you have got it just on the point of firing & tighten the dizzy. Check it is still firing #1. That should set your timing to 10deg BTDC.
  16. altezzaclub
    Like Reed said- Then put the ramps on some timber and put them under the chassis rails, if you don't have stands. We do this sort of jacking under the rally car a lot when working on it, but we have tall stands as well. We have to jack the car, put small stands under, let down the jack, put some solid timber on the jack and lift it again for the tall stands.. one day we will get organised properly!
  17. altezzaclub
    I marked them against a graduated sheet of paper every 3mm, and at those levels I measured them with a vernier. Then I started with a strip of 400# about 3mm wide in my fingers and rotated the needle back and forth. Soon figured out that 20rotations took off a thou or two and did each the same. Still not absolutely identical, but the difference doesnt show on the fuel mixture display. Doing four would be painful, so see what the options are. The SU oil gives the instant enrichment as you accelerate, so maybe that is part of the problem too. Opening the throttle gives instant leaness that doesn't matter so much with a mo'bike weighing 1/3 what a car does. Once the needle has lifted as high as its going to for that speed, the mixture leans back to whatever the needle allows. I suppose you get those cruise conditions sorted first and see how the acceleration works after that.
  18. altezzaclub
    What is it like further up the rev range with the needles lifted? Does it stay rich right through?? You can see that if you lift the needle you change the mixture right over its length, the whole rev range, although the smallest change is probably just off idle where the needle is straightest. To change the mixture in part of the rev range, say, just in the top end, you need to change the taper on the needle, so either sandpaper yourself a new taper or get a new needle set. There is also the rate of throttle opening that is a variable in the SU, and that is controlled by the thickness of the oil in the dashpot. If you open the throttle quickly the oil holds the piston down and makes the mixture rich for the couple of seconds it takes the piston to lift. If you open the throttle slowly the piston moves up and it stays around 14.7 . I'm not sure if you can do that on the CV.
  19. altezzaclub
    Is it just the photo or is that strut base waaay inwards from the wheel bearing?
  20. altezzaclub
    Any ideas on filtering the rear carb throat nearest the booster? There is never any room at that spot. Did you baffle the 18RG sump? or will it just go around corners slowly?
  21. altezzaclub
    That sounds like it is either not getting enough power to hold closed, or not getting a clean enough earth to hold it closed. Unless you're getting AC current in there... Time to investigate the alternator.
  22. altezzaclub
    When you get some quotes be sure to post them up here. This is a question that comes up a lot, and it depends on what you supply- Do you supply the AE71 gear for it? Do you supply the fuel injection pumps and surge tank? Do you supply motor, gearbox, clutch & driveshaft? Do you supply the water system, the dizzy system, and the intake system to turn a FWD 4AGE into RWD. So you can see that $10,000 goes nowhere if you just drive the car in and let them go! Offer someone on here who has already done it few beers...
  23. altezzaclub
    RW is a red & white wire, RY red & yellow, RG red & green, RB red & black. The headlight 'on' switch turns on the lowbeam relay, (via RW) which sends power through the 'common' wire (RB, marked in black) to the bulbs. The power going back through both high & low filaments at once gets earthed by the dipswitch on the column, either one of them at a time. (RG, green and RY, yellow) From the drawing of the dipswitch you can see that the 'flash' function earths high and low, the low beam selection earths RG, and the high beam selection earths RY. Check you have power at RY as it goes up the steering column with the headlights on, but don't pull the big connector apart or you won't heve power to turn the lights on. Slip a pin or needle up the wire as it goes into the junction and put a voltmeter on the pin. Alternately use the resistance function and see if there is a circuit from the headlight bulb end to the connector end of RY If you have power in RY going back to the dipswitch, then the problem is in the dipswitch itself. You can pull them apart and see if power gets back to the contacts, or if the RY is broken in the dipswitch itself.
  24. altezzaclub
    Ther is lot on the net about Mikunis. What sort are yours? One of these? http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36637 ..and it seems you can richen it by moving the needle up into the piston with the washers. That is equivalent to screwing the SU jet down to richen it. http://bikeadvice.in/fit-kn-filter-rejet-carburetor/
  25. altezzaclub
    Sure, power through some pissy little switch on the headlight stalk puts a current through the windings 'A'. That works the electromagnet, which is what 'A' is, and sucks up the steel plate with its connection 'C", which allows power through the big contacts 'B' and 'C'. There will be an activator wire for 'A' and two circuit wires for 'B' and 'C'. So you can pass more current through there without getting losses. The points B and C do burn out, as do the windings and the contacts get shitty 'n dirty and wet.
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