altezzaclub

Ah, sadly not. My bro & I are going from Coolangatta up to Kingaroy on Tuesday and back on Wednesday, so we're passing through Brisbane sort-of morning on Tuesday and afternoon on Wednesday, its 4hours either way. Thursday is back to Orange before easter, one big 1000km hit. One of these trips I'll get some time to spend up there and catch up wth a few nice Qld cars. The difference between the Mikunis and SUs is that the SU jet is adjustable, so you can richen the whole mixture range by screwing it down, or lean it all by screwing it up. They both run tapered needles, but SUs have that bit more adjustability with whatever needle you have. I assume Mikuni sell larger jet tubes as well as a range of needles, you just need to go through them to get the one that suits. The early SUs had the needle go straight down the tube of the jet, and you adjusted its position so it never touched the sides. For some reason they later put a spring mount on the neede so it rubbed on the side of the jet, which must have worn the needle slightly over time, making it richer. Mine were sprung mounted, but I converted them back to fixed needles in case they wore oval. You might fnd the Mikunis the same, if the needle drops cleanly down the jet they don't wear.

I'm sure you must have seen this somewhere- Instant camber and toe adjustment

I reckon... Its dead I'll bet. We did have a bolt drop out of the crownwheel and do similar things many years ago, and that was a throwaway. If you want to use any of it for parts, don't drive it at all. The metal bits will destroy all the bearings and gear surfaces.

Yep- that will synchronise the 4carbs so they are all sucking the same amount of air. What you need is an oxy sensor in the exhaust to read the mixture while you drive around, which is not hard to organise. Hopefully he will have a portable AFR meter for doing that. I'm passing through BNE next Tues & Wed, wouldn't mind a look at it if you have the car around at lunchtime.

Yeah, pull the alty apart and check the brushes and rotor surface where they rub. Check the wires from the windings in case one has broken and is just touchng where it is soldered on, then lifts off a high revs. Unsolder the diodes and test them too, in case one has failed.. I suppose you could get it load tested at an electricians again, it sounds like its only putting out half its power.

Nice AFR unit- With your twin Aisins you just stick two oxy sensors in and fit a switch to read between them. The idea really suits variable jet carbs like the SUs or Mikunis, where you can make you own needles to get a good AFR in all parts of the rev range. I'm looking forward to see what readings you get once you have the Weber sorted.

"quiescent"... We are onto it this Sunday as I head up to Qld for a few days, then Steve has Easter on it. Once the front suspension is back on we can worry about ride height and handling, and could do the next rally without doing anything else on it. However, there are ALWAYS more things to do, to plan, to try... Improvements rather than builds!

Good point, and this will be an ongoing problem as Govts push more and more alcohol into our petrol. Our cars will get fewer on the road and they won't care whether we can drive them or not, so we will be modifying constantly to keep up with fuel changes.

OK, electrics are hopefully good and inlet system is the suspect. Are the inlet and exhaust manifolds the same thickness in the flange?? If they are extractors they are probably different and one manifold will not be clamped on properly. You might need to slip a length of wire behind the washer at the thinner flange. Use the compressor to blow out the jets but don't blow them out of your fingers and across the garage! Blow through the drillings in the body too, any crap in there will run it lean. If the carb has dried out in the past the fuel evaporates to a tarry jelly that blocks everything. Do it all carefully on a big sheet of newspaper on a clean bench. You should be able to spray something, CRC or WD40 or Startyabastard, around the inlet manifold and listen for any change in idle as it gets sucked into a hole in the inlet manifold. You could take a length of plastic tube (whch I use for brake bleeding) and put an end in your ear then listen around the inlet manifold for leaks. You'll hear them quite easily. ..or get flash and buy a stethoscope made for that purpose.

You realise that this much work makes you drive slow! You spend too much time thinking "Arrgh, have to miss that ... hate to bend the suspension..." "SLOWER!! might run off and break something..!!"

Thanks Doog- onto it again this weekend ! I have a blast up to Kingaroy and back to get some stuff sorted out before Easter ruins the driving. Another 2500km on the KE70, 550km to Walcha on Sunday, assemble the rally car suspension, 550km up to Coolangatta Monday, 300km to K'roy Tuesday then reverse it all.

Assuming you know how they work, and they are similar to SU carbs... Is the idle mixture OK?? That sets the deepest level of the needles in the carbs, when they are right down in the jets and fuel flows past the maximum diameter of the needles. This is decided by lifting a slide slightly and listening to the response of the motor. As soon as you open the throttle the slides are sucked up and the thinner parts of the needles are exposed, allowing more fuel up the jets. So if you are lean when running, but fine at idle, the needles are too thick further down. They can be easily re-shaped with some #400 'wet & dry' sandpaper and a micrometer. New SU needles can be bought in Sydney, but I don't know where you would find a selection of Mikunis. Selecting them is a trial and error process, so the tuner needs a stack of the various different tapers to fit and try against an oxy sensor. Have a play through this website- You could measure a Mikuni needle every 1/8th of an inch down its length and see which SU needle it compares to. I had AAP needles to start with, then bought ABH, then sanded my AAP (lean) needles to get what I wanted. http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/ What I did is here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__30 There are a couple of other good sites around about SU needles, the MGs, Jags and Datsun Zs use them, but I don't know how much you will find about Mikunis. You are right about it not being cheap, I'd LOVE $75 for the hours I spent on this work. The first dyno guy cost me $120 and did nothing. I reckon I know more about them now than he does. Let me know how you go, or if you have a question.

None of the KE70 sedan diffs, as they have mounts for the 5link suspension arms. I'm not sure which diffs swap around the cars with cart springs, the KE70 wagons, the Ke55s and older, all the mounts would be the same but the width of the diffs should vary a little. So, do you reckon the bearings on the inside of the pinion have collapsed?

Is the nut that holds the flange on loose? Is the flange loose on the shaft as you turn it back and forth? If the nut is loose and the flange is still tight on its splines, then look up the torque for that nut and do it up. If it leaks you need a new oil seal in there first. If the nut is still tight and the whole shaft has come out, you're up for another diff or a big rebuild.

Well, yes... So you have a new head, a new exhaust, a random stock Aisin carb and new points etc. The problem is that it revs fine without a load, but leans out when loaded. I'd suggest you strip the carb, take out the jets, pump petrol through them with a syringe and then pump petrol through the drillings in the carb with the syringe. ...or if you have a compressor, use that. It sounds like a blockage in the carb, or an air leak in the inlet manifold, so it has enough fuel to rev it OK, but not enough to do any work. The idle system is suspect as it runs the motor up to two or three thousand revs before the main jet takes over completely.. Check the carb/manifold gasket while you have the carb off. Make sure the second choke closes completely on the carb too. Its unlikely not to, but that carb could have been mucked around with by the previous owner. Seeing you have just put a new inlet gasket on with the new head, the inlet manifold should be fine. Ah- and did you fit a new condensor with the new points? Found a picture, worth a thousand words.. the red was for someone else's problem, but it shows the jets. It could be that your accelerator pump has dried out and jammed, so make sure you check that is working too.

Measure the fuel flow at the carb- just run it into a coke bottle and time it for L/min. 1.5L/min feeds twin DCOE Webers on a 2L 18RG, so somewhat less than that would be fine. The strip the carb and remove the jets & wash everything out with petrol pumped through a syringe. Then pump petrol through all the drillings in the carb. ..or just take it to a carb place and have them strip & clean it. Not starting cold sounds like a lack of richness for sure. hmmm... my old man had a leaf in the fuel tank that would randomly get sucked over the outlet and starve it. When the motor died and the car stopped the leaf would float away without the suction to hold it on.. What was the old fuel filter like inside?

Did the 14s alter the steering wheel kickback and the suspension noise?? They seem the only way to fit good sports tyres nowdays. What size are they? 195/70? I wouldn't weld the diff, just such a pain in normal driving and then better tyres work the axles harder with a locked diff. Yeah, we really need a cheap LSD of one sort or another for these diffs.

Well done! Always nice to see a project that actually does get finished nicely and on the road!

Dear God! Don't tell me we're going back to fake woodgrain!

No More Nails ! Whatever it is, I reckon it needs to be more flexible than an epoxy.

Ah! We want a blow by blow account of the Keihins, the problems of fitting and the problems of getting them to run nicely... I'm quite intrigued with the idea of quad bike carbs!

lol! Rally cars don't last long enough to rust! The rain destroyed the roads, and Forestry will take months to rebuild them all. Luke- gymkhanas and track sprints are the starting points, hillclimbs too. Events where you aren't in a pack of cars all together, if you like your car. You could go to any local rallies and randomly chat to people, the teams are always looking for helpers in the organisation part of it and being on a service crew is a good starting point. (Obligatory Warning- Motorsport is highly addictive and destructive of wallets)

Brake shop only I think. Make sure you know the diameter/take a sample.

Cheers Tom. The rally year is in disarray with all the rain up the NSW coast, so the rallysprint AND the first rally have been cancelled. This is a silver lining for certain young men who have not devoted enough time to getting the car running yet... and we may look further afield for some events later on & see what's in Sthn QLD..

Yes, you will. I fittted the 4speed to start with then swapped that for a 5speed later. I think both manual boxes are the same length, but the auto control hole is further back.