altezzaclub

Keep pulling it out, it will sound better and better!

TRD lightweight flywheel- http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclub/index.php?showtopic=13777 TRD sways http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclub/index.php?showtopic=13791 TRD Extractors http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclub/index.php?showtopic=13785 Where abouts in SA are you?? I lived in Cape Town for 8years, but travelled all over doing the National Rally Championship.

Not adjustable?? I put ours on the rallycar each time and wind on some force outwards to pre-load the struts out.

That's good. That housing has the oil pressure relief valve for the oil filter built into it, so oil keeps pumping around the engine in case the oil filter gets blocked. It just bypasses the filter. The housing carries the oil filter and has the bleed to the oil pressure sensor too. Sadly, the oil pump is in the sump, and seeing as its a motor out job you really don't want trouble with that! I wonder if that little valve-looking thing in the hole was a broken off end from a sensor unit?

Got a publicity photo... with the mucking around learning about videos, I didn't get any action shots. You can see how much extra clearance we've got compared to the first photos in the topic. The nose doesn't hit (if you stay on the road..) and the tail squats for traction. All I want to play with now is even softer rer springs.

You do- But seeing you've probably left school its too late. You need to be on Altezzaclub, not here, its where nearly everyone has those motors and stuff gets sold for them. Also, don't expect much of a performance increase from trying to mod a motor that left the factory with more than 100bhp/litre. It was all done when they built it. TRD have managed it, but you'll buy a fleet of Rollas for what you'll pay for parts!

Drop the line off and see how fast it dribbles into a can, it might be blocked. Take the pump apart and check inside. The diaphram might have a hole in it or a valve might have shit under it. The motor should die under full throttle in 3rd or 4th gear if it is starving of fuel. I'm not sure what stress goes onto it when you're doing a skid.

nah- we don't need to, but we would if it was needed! The ring-nut sits right down snugly in the strut, whereas it was 6mm proud before, and it holds the shock in tight. On the list is "buy new ring-nut" and "prepare new struts as spares" and even "heat-shrink reinforcing collar onto outside of strut top"! but these lists never seem to get finished with a rally car! Here's a bit of the spectator point on stage one. It was the first time I've used the pocket camera on video, so its not very good. and here's stage 4 when I was getting better with the camera.

That is what the aircon load on the motor does. The motor is working harder and the aircon radiator is pouring out all the heat from inside your car, and all that heat goes straight back into your engine compartment. If it goes past half I would worry. Clean the radiator out and test the thermostat. Does it get very cold at night?

I cut 1.6mm off with a hacksaw, checked it & found we still had a bit more to go, and took another slice off. Then he held the strut down on the vice while I hammeed all around the top with a ball-peen hammer! When we put it back together it seated right down and did up tight, the extra clean threads working fine. So we got it all together and headed of. First stage was about 10km, he started car 33 and came off it 25th. I've got a quick, crappy video from the spectator corner, but the comments in the crowd are more fun than the picture.. "Stop stop stop.. Look out! Brakes work good!! etc..." There's a longer better one too, but its 65Meg so I'll have to upload it somewhere. Overall he was hitting 20th-22nd, but did a great 14th place when a slower car wouldn't let him start in front and he was told he wasn't faster anyway. So he took 40seconds out of the guy in the next stage and was allowed past! He was 17th on the penultimate stage but a puncture in the last stage cost 7 places and he ended up 24th of 50-something cars. Another new navigator, the 4th in 4 rallies... he must scare the hell out of them! I hope this one stays, she did everything right & we need some consistancy to do well. So, that strut stayed together, and so did the other one with the worst of the tack-welds holding the spring seat up higher.. he viciously attacked a bank with that one apparently. Only a month to the next one, so much I'd like to do! & a couple photos up tomorrow.

We tapped the outer tube off the bottom end cap, and then it looks like a shock, complete with bump stop. I cleaned the threads up on the strut & the nut, screwed it all the way in and found it went in 3mm more without the tube on before it reached the end of the thread. Obvious solution, I took to the tube with a hacksaw, much to Steve's horror!

Ah well... Steve ran into a little problem putting a Bilstein back in the strut when the ring-nut didn't engage the outer tube to hold it straight, and when he did it up it crushed the outer tube and stripped the thread. After an hour or two of panicked prying the outer tube straight he assembled it all, only to have the nut pop off when they loaded the truck! That's how it arrived in Orange on Friday afternoon, with plans to screw it back in and tack-weld it in place, Woolshed Style! Anyway, we stripped it out and cleaned it. The Bilstein is upside-down compared to most shocks, a very clever idea as it puts the weak thin piston shaft down inside the strut where it doesn't move, and the large strong outer shock body sticks out inside the coil spring and goes up and down. We cleaned up the end of the tube so it fitted the ring-nut nicely then put it back together, but it stripped as we tightened it. The very fine threads on the ring-nut were worn and the end of the strut expanded a fraction of a mm.

lol- philbey is right! The ear-dyno is all that matters! Note how everyone said new 'exhaust' when you asked about new 'extractors'?? The extractors will cost you $200-250 for new 4-into-1 style that terminate in a 2" pipe. Then add the cost of a 2" pipe into a 2" resonator under the passenger's floor, then a complete 1.75" pipe and muffler to the back. The exhaust cost me $350 on top of the extractors.. Works well and sounds nice. It goes with the twin SU carbs and the Crow cam, with a head skim and a bit of port machining. Its nothing compared to any modern car, but it is how the 4K should have come out! Plan the whole rebuild and modification job you want to do over the next year or two, and decide what you can afford. Then work out the order of doing stuff, as some of it means engine out and some is just a bolt-on.

That's a relief! So if Lachie's doesn't leak oil then there is shit blocking it somewhere.

Should be the same principle though- I can't imagine what they have in there that transmits force to the oil pressure sensor and changes the switch. I know mine gets oil in the sensor because the old one leaked! The option of having a sliding piston in there with a seal and it transmits the pressure by compressing the air in front of the sensor.. all too complicated!

Ah- that wipes out most road shocks. They will all collapse downwards very easily, lowering the car, then resist going back up strongly, keeping you glued to the dirt and smashing the bottom of the car. You could pull your KE70 struts apart and re-do the valving yourself so they resist that, which is what we used to do when rallying as paupers. A bit of epoxy in the foot valve made them much harder to go down and stiffer springs kept them up. Later on we bought Bilsteins, the shocks designed to keep a car chassis off the dirt. I've just re-visited all of this with the RA40 Celica rallycar, where the underside was destroyed by the wrong shocks being fitted. I think Coronas and Celcias both have the 50mm strut tubes, which gets you into better inserts if you want. Check the 4WD offroading guys to se what shock rates they have. I wouldn't go anywhere without Corona LCAs as well if I were you. Just look at the Steerfast rally KE30 build for welding.. If you can afford a MIG now, it will last you for years and years over lots of cars.

I can tell you in a week when I get mine running with a 3.9. I expect you would want the 4.1. I don't think you can lighten the flywheel much, they are 8kg stock and they made mine 6kg. I have never heard of a lightened flywheel affecting the engine in a bad way. The balancing is more important, but to do that you have to have the pistons, con-rods, crank and clutch all out to be balanced. So are you going to just hone the bores and fit new rings or put the same rings back in?? You could always ask filfrederick what he did, he build a 4K bottom end that ran to 9000rpm with a lightened crank. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/51097-4k-twin-cam/ If you pick a cam with max lift of 0.4" then you can use stock springs unless you want 7000rpm.

It adds a load to the motor, like switching on your headlights does also. So you will use more fuel and go a little slower, but in more comfort!

I'm not sure if yours is the same as the one I fitted, but it was dead simple to wire in then terrible to drive. If you get less performance from the electronic dizzy then it will be an advance weight problem. Starts here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__45 and links to this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/page__pid__511594#entry511594

OK, who wants to take out their sensor and see if oil comes out when its running?? The Girl's KE70 is up on stands with the driveshaft out until next week, otherwise I'd do it.

4-speed will do, but 5speed is better and a quick bolt-in if you find one. 4.1 is fine, it will suit a 5speed well. I had the flywheel lightened a couple of Kg by the engineers while they were doing other stuff. It makes 1st and second accelerate faster, but the effect gets less as you go up the gears. It depends on how worn the motor is right now. Do you need to rebore it? or just whip the head off for a valve grind? Do a compression test, then squirt a spot of oil down each cylinder and do it again. That will show you how worn the rings are. Once you decide what needs doing to get the motor back to factory spec you can decide what mods to do along the way.

That's good- now take the sensor out with the warm motor running and let the oil push out the soot in there as it dribbles on the ground. A few seconds might clean it out.

Yep- Combustion chamber 31cc from a pipette. Head gasket 79mm x 1.5mm gives 7.35cc Bore and stroke 75 x 73 gives 322cc So compression ratio is piston down to piston up 31+7.35+322 to 31+7.35 or 9.4:1 I traced around the combustion chamber with mm square graph paper and counted the squares to get the head area, then calculated how much to take off. 20thou takes it to 9.75 : 1. Substitute the 5K's 80.5 piston size into it gives an instant 10.5 to 1 compression with them.

Well, I hope the young man is installing struts today, although I know the truck is busy doing other things.. Friday they should be down here in Otrange, and Saturday we are off to the Jenolan Forest for an afternoon/night rally. If you want to watch, it is just South of Hampton, near Lithgow.

I reckon that hole is blocked and won't let pressure onto the sensor. Do the cleaning/oil change bit and get oil to pump out of that hole, then see if either or both sensors start working. You can always take it back and change it after the weekend.