altezzaclub

Well, your Englsh is much better than my Finnish! I assume Toyota started off with 4K #1 and went to 4K #999999 in numerical order, its not like chassis numbers in newer cars which are all in codes. So you know that 4K 33586 is an older engine than 4K 189776, but you don't know how many Km they have done.

K50 is the same 4speed with a 5th overdrive tacked on behind it. It drops the revs about 300rpm at 3000, so at 100kph its handy to get the revs below 3500. I'm still running the 4.3 auto diff the car came with and 13" wheels, so it accelerates well around town and we just use 4th. On a trip I fit fat 14" tyres so the sparkle around town vanishes but the cruise revs in 5th turn in around 7L/100k. Around town the 5speed doesn't help, but the auto diff makes it get away faster. If it is all tuned to factory specs then a better carb setup, extractors & exhaust, and a cam cut is the only way to improve it.... unless you want a turbo... The Weber 32/36 is cheapest carb, the Hurricane extractors are the only ones around now, and the cam cut will move the power curve up and give greater peak power.

Yep- if the screws don't fix it, that is most likely.

I think they're on the rear of the carb, passenger's side, although its a few years since I had a stock carb around. Just follow the throttle cable, it will lead to the idle speed screw and the idle mixture screw will be nearby. Make sure the choke isn't holding the idle on when the motor is warm, or maybe the choke cable is set up too tight. Does it do eveything else as it should?

The rocker ends wear into an inverted U-shape as the valve stem tip wears them away, so the feeler gauge bridges the 'U' and gives a false reading. You sett hem to .2mm and the valve stem sees a .35mm gap to close. We used to set them using a dial gauge, a fair bit of messing around but you made the valve open at the correct time no matter what the gap was. The KE70 currently clatters for exactly your reason as I cbf going to all that trouble. Its just one tappet gap that is bad.

OK, rings and valves are good if compressions are all over 155psi. I hope that's what he saw! Next, go over the dizzy, you'll have to strip it, but leave it in the car. Make sure the weights under the points plate can move out freely as they mechanically advance the timing. They might need a little grease. Check the points and see if one side has burned into a pit and the other into a volcano. Toss them if so and get new points and a new condensor. Fit them with the correct gap when the rubbing block is on a corner of the center shaft, and add a touch of greas to the shaft where they rub. Check the dizzy cap for dirt, & black cracks and scrape the oxide off the points inside where the spark from the rotor jumps over. If it misfires at all, check the resistance of the leads one by one. Check the plugs gaps, which I'm sure you have already done. Check the timing with a light or you can set it statically, I can tell you how. If you rev it slowly while watching the timing marks with the light you should see it advance from about 10deg out to 35deg max by 2500-3000revs. Suck on the vacuum line while watching the timng light and see that the timing changes. You can do this.while the cap is off if you don't have a light, just make sure the whole plate rotataes back and forth a few degrees. That is your vacuum advance, separate to your mechanical advance. Check the tappet gaps and get them right, then report back here.

Start from scratch, once again.... Timing, tappets, mixture (do a plug cut if no AFM) maybe cam timing if you don't know the absolute history of the motor. Lack of power could be anything, small points gap with retarded timing, too lean, too rich, cama tooth out, tappets not opening valves enough, not enough fuel delivered... What exactly are the symptoms of wrongness and what does it do well?

Manual or auto?? Now, assuming you are a car enthusiast who will work on cars all your life, go and buy a compression gauge. Check the compression of each cylinder at cranking speed with wide-open throttle, that will tell you how good the compression rings & valves are. If the compressions are low then doing the other mods to it will be wasted. Once you have done each cylinder, squirt a teaspoon or so of oil down each plug hole and try it again. The oil will help seal the rings and if the compressions go up the rings are worn. If the compressions stay low then the valves are worn. You might need a general rebuild before doing any mods, and you might find it keeps up with other 4Ks without a cam/exhaust/carb... Post the compressions up on here. If you don't want to buy a gauge then pay a mechanic to do them.

Ok, ta- We will try that when we have them apart next.

You guys coming down for the Blacksmiths Inn Rally just South of Port Maquarie on Dec 1st?? Hopefully we will have the Celica going and well tested before then.

dammit every 4K should have come out like that! Alty on that side, beside the battery (sitting on the chassis) & upright!

Ah- great machines! Wife had an ex-rally one in Cape Town, would haul 8000rpm! Then we had a couple of 1200s in NZ, the "as-new" wagon I fitted with an A15 & 5speed which made it a lovely little car. That's a bit of serious work...

hmmm.... OK, I'll pull it apart again sometime over the summer and photograph what is in there. I'm sure the Datsun ones just pulled out, as you say, but I figured these needed a pin tool. Thanks guys, if anyone pulls one apart, let us know how it works.

That is the sound of your starter solenoid jumping in and out as it hasn't got the grunt to lock in and turn the starter. Check the wires on the starter, the big starter current one and the smaller solenoid activator, a pig of the job. Check the earth from the motor to the chassis and chassis to battery. If you tried a new battery that had full charge, then somewhere else in the circuit is a bad connection that is stopping power flow. If the wiring is fine, the problem will be inside the solenoid where there are two big contacts that pass power to the starter windings. Either strip and check it yourself or have a sparkie reco the starter.

Ah yes, I know that tool well! I'm trying to be nice to these ones... The Datsun ones used to just pop out, but I think KE70 are screwed in, which is why they have the holes for a special tool. I think I'll make one from a bit of thickwall tube that I can drill a couple of pins into, slide it down over the shock shaft & swing a plumbers wrench on it.

Rallying lets you race cheaper cas with more variables than racing, where to get that little extra speed rapidly becomes very expensive. If you want to be winning your class and coming in the top 10 then what is written in here is the only way to do it. If you want to have some fun for a year and then decide how serious you are it can be far cheaper and easier. Put a couple of grand into suspension and a cage and go for it! All you need is a 5K or 5K rebore of a 4K and a semi-locked welded diff. Thiry years ago the guy I rallied with & I wrote a series of articles called "The $1000 Rally Car" for a club magazine. I'm sure nothing has changed really, but the price has gone up!

Just get an A12 out of a Datsun, that's the usual Morrie substitute and it is already upright. What are you going to do about the carb angle?? They will end up at a funny angle that will have the fuel in half the bowl.

Get a 2-door T series out of South Africa or an old SR5 2door. South Africa had much better models than Aussie got, and they usually fitted faster engines. There is a Corolla club in Cape Town with some members on here, they might find one for you.

T18s are nice, but this is the holy grail-

get one of these!

Oh- also make sure the points do spark when you open them, & check the points gap. Wrong points gap will affect performance and they wear shut, or a broken wire or poor condenser will stop it sparking well. Seeing one dizzy wasn't sparking there may be a wiring problem.

OK- First, you need to take note of which way the dizzy turns. Then look inside the oil cap and watch the rockers to get number 1 on TDC. Cylinders 1 & 4 come up together so the crankshaft timing marks look the same for both cylinders, but obviously the dizzy has to know the difference. You can just see the number 1 inlet rocker in there and it needs to be stationary as the crank swings through the last 45deg of rotation. If it is busy closing, then keep turning another full rotation until you see it sitting there on compression stroke over that last 1/4 turn. Then you need to put the dizzy in so the points are just opening at about 5deg before TDC. They swing as the dizzy goes in, so you will have to take it out and turn it to the next tooth a couple of times until you have it right. This is why you need to know which way it rotates. Basically they number one plug lead is slightly clockwise off pointing straight to the head. Then put the crank timing marks on 10deg BTDC, turn on the ignition, and move the dizzy back and forth until the points just spark as they open & do the clamp up. It should run at that quite happily and if you want it more accurate get a timing light. Make sure the leads are in the right order for the way the dizzy turns. Id say you have it 180deg out.

Well, all of those... 10 or 15years of development did make some changes... You will find a 2-door of anything but a KE70 much easier than the 2-door 70 itself unless you get a T18. The 2-door 70 was never sold here. However you will get a few steps ahead in technology with the KE70, and with that comes a larger heavier body. The wider/lower body of the KE70 probably explains the better handling as well as the 5link & the rack steering, If you can get an AE71 you get the real benefit of a newer larger car, or take a KE70 and get it out to 1500 or 1600cc with the 5K or 4AGE. Depends on what driving you do and how many passengers you take. I take the KE70 on 7hr journeys along the Great Dividing Range quite regularly without a worry, it is comfortable to drive for a day. I wouldn't rush to take a KE30 on the same... especially crammed with house-fixing tools or The Girl's university luggage.

Overall that's a great idea, it will change the car completely! Just going to a 4K manual was a lot different, much quicker and direct.

..and what he didn't say is.... KE70s have a 5link rear suspension, but all numbers lower than that still have Roman cart leaf springs!! So everything from KE10 to KE55 (and ALL the wagons) are stuck in the dark ages when it comes to handling!