altezzaclub

Well, stripped & straight onto a rotisserie.. The ideal time to get an immaculate rust-free body, perfect suspension and a great little 4K. By the end of the summer you could have it repainted and just like this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/62843-ke70-sedan-one-of-a-kind-immaculate-100000-kms-3500/ How bad is the car overall? Got pics? Got plans? Paddock basher or road car?

Thanks guys! rollaclub to the rescue again! :y:

Does it use brake fluid? Go over it all. Inspect all 4 wheels for leaks and wear of the pads/shoes. Take the master cyl off and see if fluid is leaking out the back of it into the booster. Check the booster operation by puttng your foot on the brakes and then starting the car. If the booster is working OK it will suck the pedal down further. If it all looks OK then bleed the whole system. A long pedal travel is usally air in the system, but can be a seal leaking in the master cyl. It could also be a ruptured inner casing in a flexible brake line, so have someone hold the brake lines in their hand whiile you press the pedal & they can feel if it swells.

Saw it a week or two back in someone's post and now I can't find it again! Some Supercheap aerosol colour or similar. Little job I thought would be worthwhile for The Girl to do....

Well, assuming the wall thickness is the same, the outside diameter of the KE70 strut tube is 48mm and the inside diam of the big cars is 48mm... So you should be able to cut the KE70 tube off say 35mm above the hub and push a Corona/Celica strut tube over the top of it then run a weld around it just above the hub. You have instant large strut tubes except for the bottom 50mm or 60mm where it narrows down to the original KE70 45mm ID, and haven't had to change any steering or brake gear.

I'd expect that, but adding an earth is dead easy anyway.

Only answer! Doing anything will soak up more than $750 except that exhaust, which will help but won't do what you want. Just keep looking for an accident write-off twinky where the motor is undamaged and buy the whole car.

Spring rate calculator. Always handy.. I get tired of guys who can't tell you exactly what rates their spings are. http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_coil_spring_rate.htm and to convert to metric Kg/mm- http://www.hraefn.net/projects/spring_rates.php

We pulled a strut out whle we were doing other things under there and popped the shock retaining nut off. It is a wet shock, not an insert, factory I assume, so it can be modified to any sort of bump or rebound we would like. However it will never be gas pressurised! The next retaining ring down in the strut has a flat top and 3mm two pin holes, so I assume there is a steel tube tool with two pins sticking out of it that unscrews that ring and allows the whole shaft and foot valve to be removed. Then we can redrill bleed valves or seal them up and change the oil.... Anyone got one for a KE70 or knows what they look like??

Surely the noise reduction from an extra metre of pipe or so isn't much, so its more the muffler you use than the side-pipe exit. We used one on the rally Datsun always, it tucked up behind the back seat footwell and didn't need to go through the crossmember or under the half-shaft. It still had a big muffler on. The only other con would be getting monoxide sucked inside the car through the door seals..

Well, for a start don't put up a title called "Please help me" without telling us what it is about in the next line. I normally would even open such a stupid topic title but my daughter said it would be some d'head who didn't know any better, so here I am wasting my day... How much do you know about fixing cars?? Can you weld?? can you use fibreglass?? can you spraypaint a car or sand it down and prepare it? Have you got a quote from a panelbeater yet? Is this the school holidays already?? No its not worth fixing unless you can either do some of those things or are willing to try them and learn. Paying someone to weld it will cost hundreds, and paying someone to spray it will cost thousands, so the car is an instant paddock-basher.

Excellent! Sounds like quite a success story.

155-170 would be fine. The Girl's KE70 had 150, 150, 155, 160 when we bought it. I've done the valves but haven't touched the rings at all. The well-thrashed gearbox donor car had 130, 130, 135, 130.

That's not too good- did you put a shot of oil in that low cyl and try it again. The oil will seal the bad rings momentarily and the compression will go up. If it does, hook an air compressor up to the sparkplug hole an stick 100psi in at TDC. You will hear the air leaking out past the leaking valve.

Needle and seat checked in the carb? It sounds like it is flooding after a little while, fuel just keeps building up in the bowl until it chokes the motor.

..if someone says they've done it for under $5k, look at the work and ask to see the receipts! Few people do what I am anal about, keeping a complete list of every dollar that goes into it. Most guys remember buying the motor and big bits but gloss over the many small things you will buy or have done in a workshop.

Nope! Not a new clutch kit! As the clutch plate wears the engagement takes higher up the pedal until the pressure plate can't grip enough and it slips. That is the opposte of the clutch not dis-engaging and the gears crunching. Your pedal isn't going down far enough, so either stick a coupe of washers behind the circlip (actually an e-clip) or a spacer, or renew the cable. The grooves in the cable get smashed off and the e-clip slips down, making the clutch not dis-engage enough, and I screw a banjo clip on beside the e-clip to hold it in place. Mine was taking right down on the floor & I fitted a plastic spacer a couple of weeks back. The Girl is upset as she has to lift her foot to engage it instead of just tilting her toes now!

Noisy as all shit and just screams "Stop me and hassle me" to the cops.

PM rob83ke70, he fitted a 3Y hybrid to his Dyna recently and will have some idea.

How much experience do you have in engine conversions and suspension conversions? Those two will soak up your $10k without buying a car!

:POSTPICS!:

::sigh..:: I suppose I should do mine too, now that you remind me. Little trim factors like that make a car look extra neat and tidy.

Yes, and unless something like an MX5 fits, or a small Jap saloon 4WD system, the answer will be to pick a diff and fabricate everything around it Small car IRS for RWD is pretty unusual these days. Maybe one of the kit-car manufacturers who make copies of the Lotus 7...

The semi-trailing arm system is simple, cheap to build and takes up very little room. You can run coilovers on them and that clears the spring area out too. The dual wishbones take up a lot of space under the car, but it is the only way to keep control of camber changes.

Certainly works on gravel though...