altezzaclub

Cage it up and race it! Track days, club racing, drifts, hillclimbs, anything competitive! Buy a nice one for a daily and once you eventually crash the 'ze', you can transfer the power-train into a nice body and put it on the road. By then you should be a much better driver. Definitely!

Nice score! The motor decision is up to you but don't ruin a nice granny-spec KE70, they're getting hard to find! Make sure you've got the time, the money, the parts and the enthusiasm before you start, because a half-finished project is worth nothing really. If you could get it finished and running faultlessly it would make a great car!

First In All Trouble... Surely they have all rusted into the dirt by now?? My GF had a Fiat 850 coupe (rear engine, RWD) when I had a MK1 Mini Cooper (front engine FWD) and it always scared the hell out of me when I changed cars and hurled her's into a corner... Completely the opposite handlng characteristics. That was in 1969, but I don't remember any great strides forward in Fiat quality.

Hmm... that points to a solenoid that is drawing current but not working. That will confirm that the starter is OK. It will need to be a fat wire, the starter will draw a lot of current. I used to use a flatblade screwdriver, but that is hard on a KE. Tell the guys who reconditioned it & see what they say. Maybe they did brushes and bearings in the starter and the solenoid checked out OK as it is dodgy some times & not others.

You're dead right. So it ocasionally doesn't power the solenoid, or you would hear it click. Dirty /corroded contact in the ignition barrel also..

Arond town maybe, but at 100kph you should be running around 7L/100km. Twin SUs, a cam, extractors and I can get under 7, even turned 640km out of a tank.

hmmm... did anyone inspect the ring-gear teeth while the starter was out? A not-meshing problem?

Does the red light come on if you have the headlights and the wipers on at idle? Even if the battery was dead the charge light wouldn't come on if the alty was working. The light is on when power flows out of the battery, and it goes out when power flows into the battery. So if you see that light on when you're driving then the alternator or the regulator is not working. The alty may not be charging enough to charge the battery up, so slowly you are losing battery storage until you top it up with a 240V charger. Then the battery is full again and lasts another week of being partially charged. Get the alty charge rate checked and the battery storage capacity. The alty is not hard to pull apart, check the diodes, the brushes and the bearings and re-assemble, so get a diagnosis done but tackle the work yourself. Depends on the loading in the electrical system at the time. If the alty is only 50% efficient, it will charge enough to keep the light off when you're not using the CD player, the wipers, the headlights, its not raining, or whatever reason. Pull 150watts out and then the battery has to supply it and the light comes on. One diode of the 6 might have failed.

I think that would be the problem Dave, and you would use a lot of sand if you didn't recycle it. You could fill all sorts of finely-made moving parts with abrasive, almost-invisible sand dust right across the garage. The main thing for the compressor is flow rate, not pressure, sadly you need the biggest compressor and the biggest tank you can find. Does it have a flow rate with the gun Jono, so you can see if your compressor can match it? The only ones I've used have been on commercial workshop compressors.

Did you ever get a stock carb to try on it? How about a run with an oxy meter up the exhaust pipe and see if it is leaning ut or running rich on boost. Dyno or just a drive around.

To me CDI is the name used for the first transistorised ignition systems back in the 1970s. Surely the stock ignitions are all capacitor discharge units, they fire the coil when the power stored in the capacitor (condensor) discharges. The biggest change was to get a unit that let the ponts act as a low-current switch to tell the transistorised setup to fire the coil. The low current through the ponts stopped them pitting and burning from the sparking, and the transistors discharged the capacitor's high current to work the coil. The Hall effect sensor went the next step and replaced the points as the trigger, but somehow there must still be a system of pushing either a 12V high current, or high voltage low current power surge through the coil. So when we're talking CDI, which part of which system are they using?

So... can any of you poor bastards with cart-springs tell us if it is illegal to weld lowering blocks onto the diff, so they are then part of the vehicle structure?? This idea of a long lump of steel held in place by two fragile U-bolts is quite worrying to a man who hasn't had leaf springs since the 1960s!

Very nice! ..and you can appreciate how far bikes have come since the 1960s!! Even then the Jap bikes were a massive step up from the British oil-leakers we were used to!

Looks like this-

5K dizzy is self-contained electronic, already CDI, & it comes brand-new so the shafts are not worn. Try the Hotspark anyway, it will be good to get reliable information on it for everyone.

Its because people pull the two bolts down too hard and slowly bend the flat surface on the cover. Easy to buy, I replaced one a year back, or file it flat again. I scored a flat block of 12mm steel years ago and I use that with wet 'n dry sandpaper on for all the flatting jobs. Grab one if you ever get the chance.

Lol! I put the Wade 169 on the graph, and it matched up perfectly with my Crow 606. There are two cams under the red curve. I've never had mine over 6000rpm, but the inch & 1/4 SUs might be a bit small for 7500!

Faaarkk!!!

SUMidel in Sydney. I bought my needles and trumpets through them. http://www.sumidel.com/ Charcoal filter is meant to absorb the fuel vapour when the car is sitting still & getting hot and the vapour pressure in the tank increases. Then when you drive, the carb sucks fresh air through the charcoal and burns the petrol fumes as they get flushed off. Get the carbs running then worry about needles. They will have two or three letters stamped into them and there are charts showing how the hundreds of them all relate to one another. If they've been tuned for a 4K before, they should be pretty close. If they flood out the top occasionally then fit a regulator. Buy a twin choke cable.. You can drive without them but life is much simpler when you can pull the choke out. I get first time start every time, frost, snow, rain... Get the biggest 2" resonator you can, then decide what you want to do with the rest of the exhaust.

fair enough- a bit more than 18volts then... even the low voltage side of the coil will make you jump! Loki the options are being discussed in Dust's Hotspark topic, which I assume you're keeping up with.

KEMotorsports sell them, or used to. He's a site sponsor on here. They're new 5K units out of some industrial motor like a forkhoist I reckon, something that keeps on going so they carry new parts.

Jeez Gavin go back and edit that! How does the 9 and 18volts off a 7volt charge work? Does the CDI unit take 12volts, boost it to 18 and then feed that into the coil? (which is how I thought they worked) Then the secondary side of the coil puts it up to 30,000 or 40,000volts.

Yeah I reckon they're at their cheapest for the next couple of years, then soon they will all be wrecked and rare, and the price will go up again. See if you can find a nice granny-spec auto and buy that, then use the black one as a donor car for a gearbox conversion and a testbed for a 4age swap-over. That way you can keep the new car on the road as a daily. Then again, can you do welding and vague panelbeating yourself? How bad is the rust?

Did it for you.. there are a handful of cam profiling programs in Google, I just grabbed this one. I was worried about the low lift that your cam specified, so I compared it to a Tighe 140. The Tighe has yellow dots in the graph, the Kinetic is 50% transparent. The axis are the same, and the lift is lift at the lobe, not at the valve. The Tighe valve lift is 0.488 with the 1.5:1 rocker ratio. Check that the cam is actually what they meant to cut, and do they expect it to have the performance of the Tighe.

Well, take a look at that cam you have and then compare to Tighe. Kinetic Cams- Duration 289 &289, duration at 50thou 208 & 208, lift at valve 0.325 Tighe 140- Duration 287 & 288, duration at 50thou 240 & 240, lift at valve 0.488 My very mild Crow- Duration 270 & 270, duration at 50thou 224 & 224, lift at valve 0.4 So the cam you have has long duration so won't run low-down, but appears to open very slowly (no duration at 50thou) and doesn't open very far. (0.325") Ask the cam man some deep question about why he thinks those figures should work and why they are so different to Tighe's. A 50thou duration of 208deg is very mild and equivalent to most grinders bottom of the range cams. Is your problem still that it won't rev?