altezzaclub

I didn't see a Toyota list on their website... I suppose they fit the Bosch dizzys almost universally. So you need to buy an Ebay kit for $70odd and a coil for the same. One of the Alfa forums said they were being sold by the agents at $300! How good is your dizzy do you reckon? A new dizzy with electronic ignition is only $130 and uses the coil you have.

Ah, yeah right mate... c'mon home and have a Fosters before you get into your Holden... Great story, great trip! This one will last you a lifetime!

Just get the 5K electronic dizzy and change the springs in the base. I'm running the stock 4K coil etc and its has been problem-free, it just needed the advance to come in earlier in the rev range. Certanly runs a larger plug gap and eliminated any low-down hesitation. Somewhere in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Shit-easy excpet for ONE step. -Disconnect battery -Take out the gearlever. Undo the driveshaft at the diff. (I asume its a one-piece d'shaft) Leave the d'shaft in the g'box unless you have a spare d'shaft 'nose', or oil will leak out everywhere. Take out the starter motor bolts... good luck with that! Don't leave it hanging on the electrical wires. Disconnect the clutch cable... which means take it off the pedal & into the engine bay. Take off the flywheel/gearbox cover plate under the motor behind the sump. Take off the reinforcing lumps there as well. Put a trolley jack under the g'box, take out the crossmember bolts, disconnect the speedo cable and reverse light wiring. Take out all the bellhousing bolts and pull the box backwards carefully. Lower the jack as you move the box backwards to clear the gearlever mount. If it doesn't come out easily look for a reason. Wiggle it up and down or jam a screwdriver in the gap between the motor and g'box, but if it is not moving you've missed something. You will probably end up under the car wriggling it out onto your chest, but the jack is a nice idea! Manual boxes are not heavy. Take off the pressure & clutch plates, toss them away and clean everything up. The bellhousing will be filthy with carbon dust. Put up your new clutch plate and pressue plate and put the bolts in finger tight. You can then put a screwdriver through the hole in the clutch plate into the back of the crankshaft and lever the clutch plate from sde to side a few mm... THIS is the hard part, you must have the clutch plate center lined up with the spigot bearing in the back of the crank so the gearbox shaft can slide straight through. Its worth buying a tool to do this if you can't line it up by sight. When you're happy with it, do the bolts right up. Lift the box back up and slide it in. If it doesn't go in, put it in any gear and turn the d'shaft a little in case the splines haven't lined up. If it still doesn't go back in you probably don't have the clutch plate lined up. Pull it out and take another look.. When the box is back in just reassemble everything. You should own a torque wrench, a trolley jack, and the clutch aligning tool is handy, although I've never owned one!

Just cut one coil off each spring.. Those rims and tyres probably weigh so much that they overwhelm the suspension and bang and clatter over bumps, so a slightly rougher ride from shortened springs won't be noticed. I reckon anything like Kings will have the car so low the tyres will be rubbig again. Seeing the rims are no doubt defectable, cut springs won't worry you either.

Take out all the blanks in the oilways of the block and the crank, get it dipped, then buy some long test-tube or rifle cleaning brushes that you can push up and down the oilways with solvent until no dirt comes out. If you're going to give the motor a hard time you need the oilways as clear as possible & there will be sludge in there like cholesterol in the fat ladies arteries!

Well, you don't need a full FIA bramble-bush in there, just an open rear cage with no diagonal to hold the roof up in case you tip it over. Use small thickwall tube say 33mm OD and 4.5mm wall thickness, and if you tuck it right up against the roof its not noticeable. We welded extensions on the tube at the joins and bolted it in. Really, the rust is no big deal until have an accident. The car just folds up around you then...

OK- read this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ #1 is for engine fumes and goes to an air cleaner such that it sucks clean air into the motor and the fumes going out get burned. Does it have a PCV system? #2 is blanked off on one carb and the other does the charcoal filter on mine. #3 Aha! That is the other half of your PCV system. One goes into inlet manifold via the brake booster plug, but it will need a PCV valve in it. The other goes to the air cleaner as mentioned. #4 That's the one for the dizzy vac. What needles are you using? ..and what cam and compression ratio? I see you have the 4-1 extractors that I also use. I don't see choke cables... You can buy twin choke cables qute easily. ..and a fuel pressure regulator?? The SUs don't like much pressure or they get prone to flooding. Are they Smithius' old carbs? Great trumpets!

it looks the same height as the Celica parked behind it to me... and with a daily do you really want to be having your kidneys pounded on the bumpstops twice a day every day of the week? Ride comfort might be more important that 70mm of lowering.. Can you cage it without a cert? That might be one way of putting strength back into the body with the bog filling the rust holes.

Clockwise for lean as I recall, out for rich. Get the motor up for full operating temp, let it idle and listen to it under the bonnet. Then screw the ide mixture screw in 1/4 turn and see if it changes the idle speed. Then out 1/4turn to where it was, then out another 1/4 turn and see what it does. What you're looking for is the fastest, smoothest idle speed you can get without touching the throttle stop screw. Usually as far in as it will go to give the fastest idle, then 1/4 turn out. That's because the falloff in speed is faster screwing in than out and easier to pick. Working in 1/4 turns is handy to count, or 1/2 turns, and enough to make a difference. If you get lost with it, screw it gently in as far as it will go, then out one and a half turns, that's the usual starting point. After that just go in until it falters and back out until it falters, and then between those two points will be the best idle. You can set the actual idle speed you want with the throttle stop screw afterwards.

I use the E10 95 from United stations, it seems a good fuel. You could try a half-tank of 98 and see if that improves it, although as the 95 is cheaper than the Big Four's 91, stepping up to 98octane is over 20c/L.

Depressing how rattly a motor always sounds on a video clip, especially filmed under the bonnet. Things you never hear when driving come up clearly. Anyway, how have you been setting the timing in the past w/o a timing light?? Any idea what the specs are and any idea what it is running at the moment? Ah- and also, what fuel are you using??

Richen the idle screw slightly. Headlights and clutch both load the motor and without a rich enough idle mixture it just dies. The SUs are the same, I have them idling lean but then they struggle to idle with the headlights on at night and if it is at all cold it dies. Seeing I don't go out at night it doesn't worry me.

Third start sounded like too much advance. That "crank-stop-sieze" sound... I wouldn't expect the voltage drop from the starter to produce black soot via a voltage drop to the plugs. They only need to fire say once or twice for the motor to start and then the starter is turned off. Looks like normal black "cold start" soot to me. hmm... Can the dizzy stick in an advanced position, so sometimes it is trying to start and run on 15 or 20deg advance? The fact that it cranks fine without ignition, so it overcomes the compression OK, yet it comes to that "wanna run backwards" dead stop when the plugs are hooked up.. The starter motor working against a plug firing down will also make it work very hard and cause a solid voltage drop. Won't do the starter any good either. Put a timing light on it and see where it is firng when it is cranking badly, and see if it is always at the same advance. Then knock the advance back and see how it goes.

How does it idle if you're not on the clutch & its just sitting in neutral? Any different warm or cold? What happens if its idling and you turn the headlights on?

Must've had something wrong with the pump, the SUs like low pressure and generally need a pressure reducing valve. A bit of shit under a pump valve is enough to kill the performance. Actually, I wonder if the needles weren't tapered enough to feed it? Do you still run them Kickn?

If you can't lay your hands on a fuel mixture diplay and don't want to build one, then the only answer is time on a dyno or lots of plug cuts. The plug cuts mean driving along and suddenly turning off the ignition & putting it in neutral at the same time. You want the motor to stop while under load at whatever revs you're intersted in. Then pull a plug from each carb, or all 4, just do it on the side of the road, and take a look. I was holding 100kph as I crested the Tamworth hill when I did that plug cut, so the motor was hauling at 3000rpm in 6th gear and under load. What the plugs show agrees with what the FMD was reading.. Its time consuming and using an FMD is far far better, but if that's all you can do than that is it. Worst case scenario is..... If you have extractors then drill a couple of branches (one hole for each carb) and weld a pair of 18mm nuts on. Grab a pair of Commode oxy sensors from the wrecker and come up to Orange for a weekend. We can rig the FMD and that will tell you when its rich or lean. Read about it here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__15

A lot of that appeal also comes from the waistline strip in black and white. That emphasises the impession of being low, straight and long, somethig you can always do with pinstripes. Speaking of which, there are some really ugly, wierd cars and 4WDs getting around now days. The designers seem to have had collective brain aneurysms...

Here's a handful from the Altezza after a run up the big hill outside Tamworth. I had the fuel mixture display from the KE70 in the Altezza that day and it stuck on 14.5-14.7 all the way.

yeah well, hardly a technical article... Move it into "for Sale & Wanted". You should get a nice one for that price, but not on here! We sell them for much more than Gumtree. Hunt for an un-molested auto in completely stock condition from an inland area & pay the extra to travel & see it. Make up notes saying "I'd love to buy your KE70 when you want to sell it, ph me on xxxx" and chase any you see on the road or in carparks & leave the note on the screen. Buy a nice $1500 Kia or Hyundai and then go steal a KE70 & leave the FWD in its place....

Definately noticeable, but not as good without a cam and exhaust to go with it... Its dirt cheap compared to other options. You need the carb, an air cleaner and an adapter plate, so a couple of hundred bucks. What options would you consider?? DCOEs, SUs, injection, twin stock Aisans??

I've posted both auto & manual diagrams for the KE70s up on here some time ago, but I can't remember where.. Keep running Google.... Here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/54569-4k-carb-setup/page__p__559420__hl__+vac%20+lines#entry559420

Ah I knew you'd put that up sooner or later.. shall I post up the whole story with the Highway Patrol and all.... :P

That looks fine! Bet you paid under a grand for it! Is it going to be a track car or drift or similar?? Is it a Weber under the blue hat?

I'd back that- there must be bugger-all flow when the valve is only open a mm or two, so not much happens until its got say 5mm open & from there to 10mm & back is when the work is done. Faster accceleration of the valve certainly stresses components more so I hope the cam cutters know what they're doing. Its a black art when you go into valve shaping and acceleration waves on the cam.