altezzaclub

What does the inside look like now?

This should be good! Making a brick aerodynamic!

Love the front! The chrome, the shapes, the curves... Its a shame he painted the wings white, it makes them look stuck-on instead of being part of the car. Cars are so bland today...

Yep- that Honda motor is a stunner!

Mudguard indents are specific for the slanty's bumpers, so you will notce the oddities even if no-one else does.

I had tiny rust worms or spiderwebs under the paint when I stripped it back to metal. I treated them with some phosphoric rustkill, washed it thoroughly & dried it with a hairdryer, and then undercoated as usual. Nothing has come back yet, three years...

lol! Good score! All the best race cars start like this- Its straight and its free, & you just can't beat that..

Oh for second-hand Jap imports! We might crash the Holden badge but if we had free importing we'd have some damm nice Toyotas in the country! 4WDs, twin turbos, GT models...

Stunning! Just stunning! A real work of art and dedication! The terrible time is approaching... its almost finished.. WHAT WILL I DO WITH MY LIFE NOW? Great work man!

:: Sigh :: Allright, having ridden in the damm thing I had to look up the build! It looks better in the photos than in the flesh! They must have photoshopped the paint to look much better! Personally, I love the airdam patches! Anyway, you can always use it as a towtruck.... :P

Yeah, that is the ideal Evan... However, when the motor is in the car and been used.... KE20 King, the cam turns at half the speed of the crank, so if you read 80deg on the crank that is 40deg on the cam, & you were probably in the ballpark, depending on how they wrote their specs.

Pull it out and pull it apart. I've just done the Pintara one & it cost $12 for brushes and $40 for an end bush to be made up in brass and fitted in. They got cheapass in the '80s and just ran the starter shaft in the aluminium body at one end, so it slowly wore an oval sloppy hole. If the teeth are ruined then start with your local wrecker and inspect any K starters he has, or check for recoe'd units at auto electricians.

Ok, you definately have it richer than his- more fuel AND less air going in. The problem with DCOEs is the vast range of variables you end up playing with. The best thing you could find is some old guy in a garage with a box full of Weber jets that you can borrow until you sort out which ones you want to buy. PM anyone on here if you read a build with DCOEs and see what setup they run and if they have spare jets you can try. What cam grind is it? It probably doesn't matter, you can jet the Webers to run with any cam.

Lol! I'm not surprised! Bending over motors and reaching into an engine bay while lifting something is a real killer on my back!

That info must be included in the VIN, or whatever Aussie uses for vehicle identification plates under the bonnet. Isn't there a nationwide website that gives you the information the Govt have on any VIN plate, maybe I'm thinking of NZ. The RTA will have the model data and engine codes somewhere, then you just need an import dealer. Worst comes to worst, import parts from NZ. I've bought in timing belt kits, oil filters and stuff for my Altezza straight from North Shore Toyota through Altezzaclub, a lot cheaper than sourcing it in Australia.

On the other side, the high side where there is nothing but a dizzy and an oil filter! The low side is fine for an exhaust manifold, but even the inlet could go on the other side, and you should almost upright it while you're at it... maybe we should have a contest to design the ideal motor to work on!

Yes, the original wiring just turns the relays on and off, so they're only passing a low current and that doesn't affect the headlights at all. The actual wiring to the bulbs was all new and larger wiring. Its in here, although I see the link to 'how to do it' is broken.- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

What did the dyno guy say?? As Gav says, far too rich as the revs go up. The KE70 will hold about 14.0-14.7 going up a hill with the foot hard down, although I can get it richer if I boot it quickly and it goes to 11-12 to 1 for a second or two. See what Google comes up with for jetting the 40s as a start point.

This is KE70 stuff, but I expect it to be the same. The drawing shows how the lights work, an abysmal system where the relay puts power to both filaments of the bulbs at once, then selectively earths one filament or the other. You can see why you can have full beam by pulling the dipswitch back, it earths the relay & puts power to the bulbs, then also earths the high beam and the low beam together. So flashing your headlights should be both filaments at once. When you let it go and it moves to dip, it earths the low beam. When you push it forward again it earths the high beam only on the other earth point. The wiring diagram is where it goes in the car. The red/black is the main power wire taking power from the fusible link (8) to the relay, and then through the light fuses and off to each bulb, where it joins both bulb filaments at once. The relay is switched on by the dipswitch stalk being turned and earthing out the R/W wire. Now both filaments have power, you need to earth one of them to get light, and that's what the red/yellow or red/green wires do. The dipswitch is set up so it earths either dip or full unless you grab 'flash. The red/black power is obviously OK on your car, and the red/green dip. Seems like you have lost the whole R/Y line through a bad connection somewhere, assuming hte new stalk is working OK All you can do is trace those colours and see where the power ends. I had the same recently, but in my case a relay had died. I've wired mine around the other way so power goes to two relays and they work the lights, & they're MUCH brighter! .

new? recondtioned by auto-sparkie? ..or one someone had taken out because it went 'click' all the time?? One other "click" comes from the solenoid throwing the starter gear into the flywheel but it doesn't turn because the teeth on the flywheel are knackered. The motor usually stops in one place when you turn it off, so half a dozen teeth always get to do the work, and they get ground away. You just keep hitting the key and eventually it grabs a tooth and turns the motor. Tricky! I'd expect things to dim when the starter draws current, but not the brake lights to come on! I wonder if there is another wiring problem unrelated to the starter. If its pulling current but not starting then its time to pull the starter apart. Probably the windings are burnt out.

If the solenoid goes 'click' then the problem is probably after the battery wire joins the starter motor- either the solenoid has burnt-out contacts inside or the starter brushes are worn out would be the usual problems. Check the power to the starter and the earth return wires just in case they can carry current, but not enough to fire the starter over.. If the solenoid doesn't go click then you'll have to check that power is getting to the solenoid via its activation wire, so either the solenoid coil is burnt out if power gets there, or the ignition switch is faulty/wiring broken if power isn't gettting there. If you have to take the starter out you will appreciate how badly designed the 4K is!!

289deg is pretty wild, but all that means is that it shouldn't run UNDER 5000! :D The way I see it you have only 0.325" of valve lift, so its not going to stress the valve springs. Stock springs are OK to 0.4" plus a bit. If you can check that an inlet opens 40deg BTDC then the cam timing is fine and the problem is somewhere in the carbs. Check the float levels, make sure the jets and drillings are clean and do a plug cut when its dying on you. See if the plugs look suspicious when it bogs down, because with that cam it should fly high up. While you're sitting at the roadside pulling out plugs, take the top off the carbs adn see if its drained them or flooded them right up. You can't let the motor idle down, its a case of ignition off and clutch down immediately from hard power.

Just find a welding engineer, they should be able to weld anything. Plenty of guys specialise in welding steel more than 5mm thick, although I suppose that might be easier here in the country than the big smoke..

:POSTPICS!: ..and line diagrams!!

Did you pull the a/c out or was it a garage? Can you cheeck that the thermoswitch is wired in still and that it goes 'open circuit' when the motor is cold?? The switch might be faulty, or someone might have damaged it when removing the compressor & shorted it out...