altezzaclub

Get another daily would be my advice! 5minutes won't even warm the motor up and will be bad for it. Hunt down more info on what cams and head mods to use from a race engineer and make it a Sunday car that you just don't drive in traffic. I'm sure you could get a run-around KE70 with a 5K warmed up for a daily. For the cam I'd expect anything over 295 would be race only, they'd be very flat under 3000rpm at that and stumble and cough. Especially as you get into button clutches or race linings so getting it off the line gets more difficult. If you've got used to a V6 then you'll be surprised at the lack of torque low down. Also have a look through the builds forum and PM anyone who has a cammed up 4AGE, they might not come on often enough to read this topic. Some cam stuff in here- Basically around 275 is good road cam, 280 is a fast road cam and 290 is a weekend warrior, but the rest of the motor will have to suit it. The 304deg is used in Formulae Atlantic race cars, so you might struggle in traffic... http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/5293-4age-camshaft-guide.html Some background info here- http://www.club4ag.com/faq_and_tech_pages/4A-GE%20camshaft_story.htm

Click on his name, Griffinwings, then read his profile, and it says.. So maybe he got run down by a bus, or lost interest, or got married, or went to jail... but he has never come back so he is unlikely to answer your question. You coud try a PM if he hasn't changed his email address.

What sort of driving does your daily involve?? Stop and go traffic in a capital city? 50km to work in the country at 100kph?? Motorway then suburbs?? ..and what's the hottest cam you have had in a daily in the past?

Bluntly, that gearbox is a boat anchor. If the Aussie Govt wasn't bent over and screwed by the unions all the time it would never have been fitted. Get rid of it and fit a K50.

The holes in the LCA won't line up if you bend the castor rod along its length. You'll have to bend it in an "S" shape or elongate the front LCA hole. Still, its the easiest solution. ...or just get rims with a better offset. Moar Dish!!

Bore the 4K to take 5K flat-top pistons, get a 32/36 Weber or twin SUs or a single DCOE, have the 4K cam cut, the crank & flywheel lightened and balanced, and get a set of extractors on a sports exhaust. For not a lot of work you've got a sporty 1500cc 4K that goes well and looks original.

Lol! Love it! That's a nce toy, I never thought of buildinng a dyno to really give you fine tuning. hmmm.....

Well, if you have a flash timing light where you turn a dial to put the timing mark on TDC then read the advance off the dial, its very easy to generate an advance curve every 500rpm. I wonder how many people are missing out on their best performance because their motor is running a slow curve.

Do you want to generate advance curves for each?? Mark the pulley out to 50deg BTDC in 5deg increments with some white paint, then have someone hold the revs at every 500rpm from idle to 3000rpm while you read advance with a timing light. There are spring rate calculators on the web to get the strength of each spring. Its a pain now you have it running, but that would add a little more knowledge to this topic. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/page__pid__511594#entry511594

Somebody on Rollaclub here had a run made of 18mm ones made. See if you can find the topic and if there are any left.

My 4K head has a combustion chamber of 31ml. 5K gasket is 7.5ml. 5K piston dish is 6ml. Cyl volume is 362ml (3.14x4x4x7.3) So 362+6+7.5+31 is squished into 6+7.5+31cc That's 406.5 squished into 44.5, or 9.1:1. Using the shallow dish 5K pistons. Not high at all.

Bore the 4K out to take 5K pistons, get a 1500cc 4K, solid lifters and have the cam cut. Been done, works, writeups here and there on Rollaclub. The 4K is the cheaper option if you don't want to do that, so just fit a cam. It will always be a 1300cc and you will notice that if your're working hard up winding hills. The 5K is better, obviously, but getting rid of the hydraulics is a pain if you went that route. Harder to find 5Ks too.

lol- the fate of many a rally car! There's a free shell here in Orange if you want to pick it up sometime... Rob has it cluttering up his backyard. Come up for the Orange Rally next year and bring an extra trailer.

Go on.. put a tall vertical lever up by the dash like the WRC cars run! Frame it onto the side of the trans tunnel by your left leg.

Yep, they're the standard ones that seem to be around. They work fine, end in 2" pipe.

Glad you found it helpful. That is the neutral lockout from the auto box to stop you starting it in any gear. Bridge it permanently & forget about it.

..and put a 4AC sticker on the head!

Fitting the longer LCAs will give you toeout. I didn't need longer tie rods for fitting XT130 LCAs onto a KE70, they just screwed out further. I'd work on keeping the amount of thread inside the balljoint & rack end at twice the tierod diameter minimum. If its shorter than that then get longer tie rods.

Ok, the diaphram at the end of the gas filter line must be leaking. I assume somehow it bleeds vacuum from te inlet manifold to the EGR valve and sucks it open to recycle exhaust gases. So no air is meant to pass down that gas filter line, it should just have a varying vacuum inside. The leak causes #1 to run lean. Check that out to start with then tackle the next bit of the problem. Here's the diagram for a 4K. You can probalby find yours on Google. The BVSV line sits on top of the EGR-V unit and pulls a diaphram open. The bottom of the EGR-VM (not shown) is where exhasut gases are taken out of the manifold when the EGR-V is opened. I blocked the rubber lines where the red dots are using 10mm lengths of 4" nails and just kept the green lines. The whole thing looked stock but only worked the dizzy advance and the charcoal filter. Car ran fine. What advance is it on at idle now, and have you checked that the weights in the dizzy do advance it?

Check the hinge on the float. The vibration at idle is making the needle stick somewhere, mayb the float jams and doesn't push it shut. Did you crank it over with the needle out to flush the line? Fuel line pressure? I don't know if you need a regulator to drop the pressure with a 32/36, but DCOEs and SUs both use them. I've had that with DCOEs and can't remember any particular problem causing it. SUs can do the same, I had to bang the back one with a coke can years ago on my Datsun for a year or so... Every month or two it would just flood.

The bike carbs are interesting- Do they have oil dashpots like an SU where the oil slows the movement of the slide going up?? or springs above a diaphram like a Stromberg? Using different viscosity oils takes the bounce out of the slides at idle, and a hot cam would change the vacuum at idle and alter it all again. Can you get needles for them? Do you use an oxy sensor to check rich/lean when under power? If they were off a 400cc then each carb feeds 100cc at say 10,000rpm, and you're feeding 400cc, so getting 5000rpm was pretty good. If you had carbs off a 750cc bike it would fly. Developing the SUs kept me busy for a while, but damm they work well now!

What's the "gas filter"?? the fuel filter? If it goes lean when you connect it then that one is blocked I expect. An air leak could also come fron a hole in the advance diaphram on the dizzy, so suck through that too. The choke can be checked visually can't it? "on" when cold "off" when warm, and it will lift the idle speed when cold. Of course, an air leak will make that play up too. I thought the fuel solenoids were "power off=fuel off" types, so if they burned out they would shut the fuel off. So if yours allow the car to keep running maybe they are jammed open. Maybe that carb needs a strip and clean and rebuild. When the light is on and flickering, fiddle with the door switch. A bit of corrosion under the door switch earth will cause it to flicker. My Rolla bunnyhops going downhill in a low gear like second, because I run the SU carbs very lean on over-run. Feels like an airleak makes it jerky... Check the earth from the fans as well as checking them with a direct 12V feed. The motor all earths back through the same wire, so check that each end of it is clean and tight.

just buy a $5 jar of "Gumption" at your local supermarket & mix it with a little liquid polish. (had to go and try it to make sure!) It will be much better with a polishing machine, basically a 9" disc grinder that goes very slowly. DON'T polish any edges or sharp corners (body lines) however! Hopefully you can rent one or talk a spray-painter into loaning you one for a tray of beers. All the polish manufacturers put out a restoration product, its usually just polish with grinding paste in. You can buy the cutting compound by itself from a panelbeaters supplies shop. The grit size varies between manufacturers, so while it depends on how bad your paint is (how much you want to cut off), get something that you can't feel as gritty in your fingers. The more you cut off the thinner the paint, obviously, so look hard for any changes in colour and stop immediately you can see through it.

Did you compare notes with filfrederick about his crank? He knife-edged and lightened his for the twin-cam.