altezzaclub

What sort of locking are we talking here? Welding one spider gear to another so they can't move at all?? or filling in a couple of teeth with weld so there is 3/4turn of rotation before the other spider gear runs into that block of weld?? Two ratios really, 4.1 from a manual car, 4.3 from an auto.

You might be able to file the holes oval in the direction you want, or maybe smack the brackets into the place they should be. Its not very noticeable, it will only be a mm or two.

Mixture screw right in and then 1&1/2 turns out would be a good starting point, and idle screw to set whatever revs you want. The theory is, you get it all warmed up then screw the mixture screw in and out 1/4 turn, & put it at the fastest setting. Then adjust the idle speed to what you want, and then screw the mixture in and out a 1/4 turn past where you had it and see if you still have the fastest idle. You keep doing it until you have the fastest idle mixture on the mixture screw and the actual speed is set by the idle speed screw. Once you have it on the road properly you should try those different jets and sort out which ones give the best performance and fuel economy. Put it over a dyno and check the A/F ratio with each jet setup, or borrow an air/fuel mixture meter from a garage and go driving with it.

Also small ones in the guards if they have been left there. Spray them all with WD40 as they're usually rusty, and I found one of my exterior ones had the flap broken off. Nice guy welded it on for nix...

Cut the gasket out to fit the smaller of either ports of manifold, With the exhaust you could spend the time to match port to gasket to manifold if the port is biggest. If the port is smaller then match the gasket to either, as that small part wall stops reversion waves like snot35 said. Make sure they all line up when you fit them together, I marked the positions on all three items carefully before I bolted them on. Because the studs allow play, the real way to do it is get it all lined up then drill 3mm pins through the manifold into the head to hold them in place. My extractors both fouled a bolt with a weld and didn't match the ports correctly to start with.

I get Ron Owen's (The Owen machine gun is from an ancestor of his...) monthly email, and it usually has some pointed comments about arms and Govts. This one explains how the Western world is sliding into tyranny with every year that goes by.

Drop it again & loosen off the leaf pack bolt in the middle until the thread just goes inside the nut and smack the leaf pack with a hammer on each side. Not very hard with the hammer, you just want them to sit in their natural position. While yuu're in there look at the setup where the diff locates on the top of that leaf pack bolt & make sure that is all OK and straight. I helped Chris with his Landcruiser ones, things were pretty bent... That's a crowbar (hardened drill rod actually) he is bending to pull the leaf over to the shackle! All something to do with it losing a wheel at 100kph..

I'm not familiar with the Ke15, but generally- Shocks have two valves in each direction, one for slow shaft-speed bleed which controls cornering, and one for high shaft speeds which controls bumps in the road. We're looking for high-speed specs inth rally car, you'll be doing the opposite and looking at slow-speed numbers for roll control on smooth tarmac. Similarly, we want lots of resistance to the car going down and want it to come up quickly, while nearly all shocks (esp modded ones) go down fast and come up slowly. There will be stacks of options for your shocks. Overall, the stiffer the springs at either end, the less grip the car has as it can't transfer the weight to the outside wheel.. So a stiff front end or stiff front sway adds to understeer, same for rear. A car is designed to take 4 passengers and 4 big suitcases, often to tow a trailer too, so the rear end is usually far stiffer than what a driving enthusiast needs. Long soft bump stops become part of the spring system as just rolling into a corner will make them work, and they can hold an attitude of roll for you. They stiffen very quickly in an asymptopic curve, while springs are meant to be linear in stiffening and shocks constant. Same for sway bars, cut off the lower top seat & you can make sprung mounts so they allow you a couple of inches of progressive roll before they stiffen up 100%. Those two factors let you get good turn-in then hold the car steady from further roll.

What does 'tucking' mean? Is it lower on one side than the other?? Are they gas shocks? If so, swap them over side to side & see if one is softer in gas pressure. Did you take the diff out? In which case leave the bolts slightly loose and drive it a little to get everything into its relaxed place then tighten them. If you can't drive it yet don't worry about it until you can. Don't forget that you only do suspension bolts up when the car is sitting on its wheels after being driven. The rally car I'm working on was 20mm lower on one side than the other... didn't seem to worry it.

True, but throwing it away and using a side-draught setup is the answer! Every elbow has the effect of a metre of pipe flow loss.

The Tercel at the wreckers does call to me when I'm down there... 4WD KE70 with 4AGE.....

The auto choke opening mechanism can probably be rotated/adjusted to put more spring pressure on the butterfly and allow it to close properly. I don't know which method the 4A uses to control it, but they're usually either electrical or or mechanical in operation, and they are adjustable.

..and finish it with a sandpapr flapper wheel...

Cost me $2000 for twin carbs, custom cold-airbox, Crow cam, extractors and full exhaust system. Had the head done & fitted new bearings but never touched the pistons. Next time I'll bore it out to take 5K pistons and run a 1500cc 4K. It goes up hills fine, cruises at 100kph and last week it did the 650km from Walcha to Orange at 6.3L/100km, although it usually uses 7. Although not hard to mod, I'm afraid the 4K will never match a 4AGE! http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Depends if you rebuld the motor or just use what you get, depends on how much work you can do yourself in fitting everything, and depends on how many mates owe you favours for fabricating stuff. Aso depends on how well you want it to work afterwards as a professional "as good as factory" or not. Most guys- Don't rebuild it, so it runs badly or breaks down Do a lot of the work themselves because they've done a couple of expensive but badly done conversions before Know mates who can do fabricating and welding for a few beers Accept an OK but not very good job and drive around the niggling problems. But take it into a garage and say "fit a 4AGE for me" and you won't see any change out of the $10k.

If they hit the screw that holds the dizzy cap on, can you rotate the dizzy 90deg and then swap the leads around?

Using the cutter is easy, but knowing how much to take off is the difficult part... I just matched the inlet ports to the Lynx manfold I was going to use, without opening them up any further down the throat. http://www.rollaclub...the-girls-ke70/ Get a conically curved cutter, that is the most useful.

Drill two lines of 3mm holes into it, about 2mm apart. Then run a 4mm drill down the same holes to chop the walls out and tap it with a hammer on a knife or sharp screwdriver. Then file the ragged edges flat or use a drill with an alloy cutter in it. Same rotary burr tool you use for porting alloy heads, you could do the whole job with one. I do it all the time to make big holes in panels.

Ah.. if only the motor stood upright!

Well, I figured people would have noticed that this 'democracy' experiment is a failure and what we have needs replacing, or at least noticed that it doesn't matter who gets into power, the same shit happens. They get rich, the middle-class get screwed... No-one seems interested in the 60trillion dollars the USA is down the tube for over the next decade or two, something they will never afford, so the whole country is as bankrupt as Greece. They have unemployment at about 15% yet the media seems to think that things are fine and whoever wins the election will be a saviour. A good does of reality will help.

I'd back that! So many times there are special lowered speed limits for road works all over the place, then you find there is no-one around at all! No wonder we ignore them! My wife works on the roads occasionally and has horor stories of drivers who drive straight into the cones or up the back of stationary work trucks, but there is no hope for clowns like that, you might as well just take them outside and shoot them. "The only way to keep control of the population is to make everyone a criminal so they fear the State"

God damm the media's infantile fascination with the whole election process. It doesn't fking matter who gets in, the system won't change, and it is NOT news at all! A circus for the peasants...

Ok, that makes sense now Oldie...

What do you want to do with the car?? Drifting? Track racing? Lookin kool 4 da hoes? What advantages do you think coilovers have over the stock coilover in there? You have fully adjustable shocks fitted to the front already, you just have to pop them apart to adjust them. You probably can't do better than Corona LCAs, a lower spring and rebuilt shocks in the front, a Celica rear sway, lower springs and new shocks in the rear. If I were you I'd try that and then once you have seen what those mods do plan how many thousands you want to spend on bigger struts, bigger brakes and all the fruit... I'd grab a grinder & cut a coil off the front springs and one & 1/2 coils off the back springs, that will drop the car an inch in the front and more in the back to make it level. However, even that will stiffen the suspensioon markedly. Many people on here would not agree with that method.. For a laugh.... We need a strut brace for the rally car, so I emailed Whiteline as they make one for that model Celica. I asked if we could just buy the ends as their actual bar looks pretty weak and won't stand our pre-loading. The reply said no, they only sell the whole package, and they must NOT be preloaded. So what they're selling is just plain fking bling! It won't do anything under your bonnet!

PM EvanG, he fitted one recently and did a lot of jet work. However I'd say it should run with the jetting from a Vitara, even if it is not at its best. It sounds like you have some other problem occuring. Take the carb off again and check the idle jet for dirt and squirt petrol through the idle circuit with a syringe.