altezzaclub

WTF! You have to be kidding me! I'm sure there's no regulation that says you have to show the gears on the gearknob! Mine shows FWD<->4WD...... A genuine Toyota item! Stixy I can't think of a way to check the bore without looking iside, but it would need 5K flat-top pistons and would put the compression up to 10:1 or so. Should go well!

Are you using paint stripper first? Well worth it, it gets down to the undercoat pretty quickly, one or maybe two coats of stripper and a quick scrape off.

Why don't you take the springs out of the car completely and set it on jacks to the ride height you want. Then measure how much travel you have left before you hit the bump stops. That will tell you how much compression you needs in a spring, and you could soon work out (or ask a suspension shop) what spring rates will do that. If you have half the travel compared to stock you will need twice the spring rate. With a spring selected you can then find shocks that will not bottom out before you hit the bump stops and still keep the springs captive. Probably the physical sizes will determine what brand you buy.

That would be so if its the Torsen centre that the Altezza uses. Once one wheel loses all traction it stops operating. Best would be a clutchpack type, unlocks under deceleration so the car turns in well then locks up more and more as you put more power through it. Had one but I sold it recently.

Rear parking radar... Rear foglights... Anti-pursuit oil sprayer.. Rear wing deflection motor.. Revolving number plate motor.. Stick in a multimeter & see when its live. Ben is probably dead right-

There must be a cold start bypass in the inlet system somewhere that does the same job as a choke. I'm just researching the Pintara's CA20 one as that is stalling now the days are below zero in the morning. How low will it run? 1000rpm? Have you run it long enough to warm it right up? If its anything like the Nissan setup, the TPS should be telling the computer that the throttle is at idle position, and the computer should be opening the idle air control to regulate idle speed. So a problem in either of those would mean it wouldn't idle.

Nearly done! Is the mixture under control now, or will you have to re-jet the Weber?

Quite correct- 125RWKW would be the norm in Altezzaclub dyno runs on stock motors. Sadly we're pushing 1360kg of luxury lard around... Love that lifted wheel Gav!!

Damm that looks nice! No rust?? What did you pay for it?

oh- nice toys! Ideal for rebuilding motors.

I put the wiring diagrams up on here last week, but I can't remember which topic they're in! :hmm:

You can haul the motor out and strip it easily enough- take lots of photos and draw diagrams and keep all the nuts & bolts from one system in its own dogfood can Get a quote from a couple of motor engineers to rebore, grind the crank and assemble a short block, just phone them up and ask them how much they would charge for a 4K. Pick the guys you want to work with. Have them clean all the components, check them for wear and tell you what needs doing. If it needs a rebore there's nothing to stop you having it sonic tested and rebored to 1500cc so you can fit flat-top 5K pistons. Depending on the price and your cash situation, you can have them bore it, put the pistons on the rods, grind the crank and overhaul the valves, then give it all back to you in bits. It will cost a few hundred more to have them re-assemble the pistons/crank in the block and the valves in the head, and give you back those two main parts for final assembly. If you're into cars then buy yourself a piston ring compressor, a torque wrench, and a valve spring compressor & do it all yourself. You'll need those tools every time you do an engine up and they will last you all your life. If you have the engineers assemble the head & block then you'll only need a torque wrench. While its down there, have them lighten the flywheel and balance the whole motor/clutch setup, it will rev a lot smoother. This would also be the time to get the cam ground and start hunting for extractors and a better carb, Weber or SUs. As Ken said, this is the best time to learn all about engines!

Wiring! Got power at the coil? Got power across the points? Key on, points open, stick a screwdriver across them...

have you driven one 7degrees?? What does the airbag front feel like for handling? Reminds me of my ol' Mk1 Mini Cooper with its cantilevered rubber bungs. ..and Rover had horizontal coils in the front of the 2000 with bell cranks.

Welcome in- Are you thinking Altezza 3SGE or turning a Celica/MR2 one around 90degrees?

Pull it apart- 5minute job and there's nothing inside except two valves and a diaphram. If the diahram is holed it won't pump and is a throwaway, but if there is muck under the valves they just need cleaning and its as good a new. Try hand-pumping the other one before you fit it if you go that way.

ROFLMAO !! :laff:

Arrgh! You're right! :oops: Fail!

very important! Can you blow into the tank inlet while you have that line off? You should get some fuel trickling out. The filter may stay quite empty because it will flow enough fuel around the air bubble trapped in there. I've never seen a filter completely full. It doesn't take much fuel flow to run an engine, you can work out the rate considering about 8L per hr at 100kph is only 2ml per minute.

Ah, yes.. You've gone to the dark side, I remember now.. What was the rattle in the motor??

Dave how damped is the wideband? Haw fast do the readings skip up and down to follow the motor load changes? The narrow-band is very mobile, the numbers rarely still & even on constant cruise they flick up and down a few places. I don't mind that, but I wondered if they damped the wideband meters to make them more readable to the general public. Twinks you should be decelerating down at 20 to 1 and cruising leaner than 16. The accuracy isn't important really, its just the trends to make sure it doesn't richen too much on cruise or run lean under power in the rev range somewhere.

That photo of the inside of the wide-band is quite different to inside of the narrow-band. The NB has to do an analogue-digital conversion to read the EGO output, while I expect that the controller does that on a WB and feeds the display a digital signal. What are the buttons for? There aren't any on the NB. Ask them if the NB will handle the WB controller. I think a WB can be used as a NB display, but the opposite might not be true.

lol- I'll have it here, but now I'll have to find it! ....................................... Wow! Brilliant filing system! Jaycar KC5300 kit, 16pages... What do you want to know? Nothing mentions wide-band conversion, but I'm glad to read that "many late-model engines operate with air-fuel ratios approaching 19:1 at constant throttle", which is what I had the SUs running at up to Cairns and back. I thought it might have been too lean, but it seems not.

Ah- that sound.. better than sex!

Sooo... what car was that we were talking about?? That seems to be the one little detail missing in your plans.. The 5-link rear end version or the Roman cart-spring one? Ah- probably a Ke70. In that case all the conversion stuff has been covered in here many times, you will learn most by sending a PM to someone who has built what you want. However buying one, well, get one from inland so its rustfree, even if you have to travel a thousand Km for it. ...and probably an auto as the manuals have been thrashed more. I wouldn't buy one on here, but that's just me... get a dead stock granny car even if it takes 6months. A cheap one is worth less than $1000 and a really nice stock one is worth under $2k. Don't pay more than that and drive half a dozen if you can to get a feel for a good one. I've seen nice ones go into the wrecking yard because they weren't needed any more, or something mechanical broke and they weren't worth fixing. This one cost us $1800 from a dealer.. expensive, but good. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/