altezzaclub

Extractors won't do much without a larger exhaust system. I ran the 2" extractors into a 2" resonator to start with, and welded that into the stock system. It was 6months or something later that I put inch & 3/4 to the rear, and THEN it made a difference. Its got a nice growly sound but is not noisy enough to be noticeable.

Probably easiest to hotwire it, just run a +ve battery to the coil & see if using the key for the starter will run it. Without the dashboard the only thing missing will be the ignition light and gauges, but if you had a rev counter in it you might have lost the coil power.

Have someone pump the brake pedal up and down quickly 5 times while you hold the bleeding spanner. When they finally hold it down you open the bleed nipple then close it. Then repeat several times. If that doesn't work, loosen the line at the strut an see if fluid can be pushed out. If not comes out then the problem is back towards the master cylinder. Try bleeding the front brake outlet on the cylinder in that case.

Concentrate on this. Check that you are getting voltage to the coil when cranking and if you are, where is it going. Once you have it running reliably on the old system convert it back over.

If you're using it on the highway go the 3.9 You'll never use top in competition, so gearbox ratios will be more important anyway. I found tyre size made a much bigger difference than diff ratio, fat 14" geared me up more than changing the 4.1 for a 3.9 for this trip up to Cairns.

I had the same thing initially as I just put stock size mains and bigends back on the crank. I never had it dipped to clean the tar off and the new bearings were a fraction of a mm wider, which was enough to grip the tar at the edge of the crank journal. It looked like nothing, but when it had been cleaned it was fine.

That's 85% of the secret! Don't make the exhaust noisy or the car too low and don't drive like a hoon. You can always say the mods were necessary to keep up with modern day traffic, your 1960s designed motor made it a slow-traffic hazard as it was! I told the girl to say the car was modified for fuel economy, not performance if she ever gets hassled on her 'P's

Yes, you can see straight through it. It takes the crackle and backfiring out of the system, and then you follow it up at the end of the exhaust with something that you CAN'T see through. I like the tri-chamber design, an oval with the middle empty and each end packed with fibreglass. The sound goes straight into the wall at the rear part and gets absorbed by the glass, while the gases flow across the middle to the exit pipe. Plenty on the web about muffler design. Don't use a hot-dog as the final muffler, just don't!

What happens if you run it w/o the vac on at all and use a timing light to check deg against revs. Then just draw an advance curve on graph paper. I had this happen when I used too light a spring to hold the weights in, and at the 1000rpm idle it and already advanced through 70% of what the weights were capable of adding. That was when I was re-curving the electronic dizzy to get it to advance faster on The Girls KE70, as the 5K electronic dizzy I fitted had massive springs and never advanced satisfactorily.. You should have say 8deg at idle and another 25deg added by about 2000rpm. When you're accelerating the vac is zero, so you run purely on the weights. When you lift off the vac adds the extra 10deg to burn the lean mixture. If you set it to 8deg with manifold vac on, say it adds 10deg, then you really have -2deg without vac. That means you will peak out at 15deg instead of 25 with the weights, which will make it flat at revs over 2500. It must show some advance when you rev it if those weights move OK, I think you just have the 5K dizzy problem.. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__45

The problem I find with my dirt-cheap one is that the castor wheels are crap and have too much negative camber! They don't swing in the right direction when jacking , I think they were too cheap with the bearing ring that they sit on. Start off cheap and if it craps out in a few years go up one price bracket... The lift is the thing to look for, they will all jack up one end of a Corolla easily enough, but sometimes not high enough.

My Armstrong Siddeley had a centrifugal clutch, but that used three "L"-shaped arms with weights. You sat at the lights in first gear with your foot off the clutch, and as you accelerated it took up the drive automatically. With its pre-selector gearbox, the "clutch" pedal actually worked the gearbox and the clutch never disengaged when moving. You kept selecting one gear ahead and just pushed the pedal to change. Maybe this would work OK with dog gears like a motorbike box.

Find a good 4K, one that you can drive first, and pull the 3K out- Just seal it up and put it aside for a few years. Pull out the plugs and put oil in each cylinder then wind it over by hand a couple of times. Take the carb off and spray CRC "longlife" down the inlet manifold to coat the back of the valves. Then you can always resurrect it in the future when you want to sell it as original.

Have to be key switch or relay, not starter. Shouldn't be the relay as it would only activate when the key switch sends it a message, which should only be on "start" position. The starter only responds to current down the solenoid line, so it shouldn't be involved at all. So strip the key switch out and convert the "start" circuit over to a push button!

When it next doesn't start, take the air cleaer top off and have someone try to start it while you hold your handd over the carb for 2seconds when cranking. The vacuum will suck hard at your hand and instantly pull fuel into the throats if there is any in the bowl. It should flood it then you can see if it starts with plenty of fuel. If it does then the choke might not be working well or the fuel leaks out of the bowl. Don't stick your face over it in case it backfires or you don't like your eyebrows... If it doesn't help then fuel starvation is probably not the problem. Does it close right across the throat when you pull the knob? The instant start stuff catches fire really easy, so it will fire the motor up lean or rich I expect. The fact that it starts, runs for a minute then stalls suggests too rich to me, too much choke, but its hard to say.

Yeah, its a big country.. I have to get 600km per tank and fill up at the right places. All the house-fixing/painting gear fits in the car (plus the beer fridge!) & the boot is still empty for the microwave and kitchen gear/food. Then three T-shirts, 2x shorts and 3x underpants! Oh, and a towel in case I have to hitchhike! ...and one tyre has a slow leak where the wheel weight was under the bead. So that is a pump-up each morning. :(

Nope- all caps are the same. Make sure the cutout in the cap fits the tab on the dizzy (to make sure it only goes on one way round) and then put the leads in the same order. A new cap might solve the problem for you. Do a compression test, if the valves are burnt it won't want to start. .... Drive it out to Dave's with a slab of beers and let him look at it!

nope- but car needs to be in neutral to rotate it ! :laff: Actually the auto will be different, you can probably rotate it in 'drive'. OK- so when we have the points gap & timing right, we should be getting a good spark at the right time. Poor spark comes from a weak coil, too open or too closed points, or a weak condenser, late or early spark from timing incorrect, no spark comes from one of those things broken or a dizzy cap/lead shortout, or a dud plug. That leaves carb. Take off the air filter and check the choke and throttle. The throttle is usally OK, it sits on the idle screw for a minimum but make sure the cable pulls the butterfly right open on full throttle. The choke should be wide open when you take the filter off, and make sure it closes completely when you pull the knob. Now, what happens when it doesn't start?? Does it not fire at all and just crank over and over? Does it cough when you are cranking it but not catch? Does it start to run then dies?

yep- you can google the names of the components and find out what each does. EGR & BVSV etc. Here's the auto one-

If you haven't got $10,000 in the bank don't even think about it. Just buy a half-finished project from someone else who reckoned he could do it without the cash! Piss about with that for 6months then sell it on to someone else on here... The fact you had to ask that question means you don't know enough about the job to do it yourself, and guys have spent closer to $20k paying mechanics and machinists to do it.

hmm.. make it "just as the points open the rotor hits cylinder one. I imagine it fires within milliseconds of the points opening, so there's not much in it. See how it is set up at the moment, it must be pretty close to what we're talking about. If you fit a manual box you'll be surprised how much quicker it feels. For a start you lose about 50Kg in weight under the car!

Nice buy! You bought a lot of good car for that money! It should last you 10years now.

The manual and the auto have slightly different setups, but here is what I did even before we fitted the SU carbs Everything except the vacuum advance on the dizzy & the charcoal canister was blocked by pushing bits of 4" nail into them. The hoses were all still there and it all looked OK, but nothing worked. When I did the SU conversion I kept the same two circuits, and I've always had the PCV system working.

I don't know. Just check that it lines up on number one as the points open. It would be firing too late if it lined up the rotor after the points opened, you might have 4deg BTDC rather than 8.. Another old way of setting timing is to drive it at 60kph in 4th gear and floor the accelerator. If it doesn't knock then advance it and try it again. Keep going until it pinks doing that. In reality, that is what we are after- the maximum advance the engine can take without being detrimental. If it is too advanced it kicks back on cranking and gets that distinctive knocking sound when you accelerate hard going up a hill in a high gear, ie. 4th instead of 3rd, or using 3rd in town around intersections instead of 2nd. So play with it a few mm on the dizzy either way and find a spot where it feels good for you. The 'best' timing varies from motor to motor as it depend on the octane of the fuel, the temperature of the day, how warmed up the engine is, the compression ratio and what revs you drive at. More advance is needed for higher revs, as the pistons move faster and the air moves faster but that the fire burns at the same speed. So you need to light the fire earlier to get all the fuel burnt before the exhaust opens and dumps it. At lower revs timing can be later, hence the mechanical advance system that advances the spark through those weights in the dizzy, and the 'advance curve' each car has. 95octane will allow more advance without pinking than 91regular, and I've got three cars that all use 95 now. It helps that 95with 10% ethanol from the United station is cheaper in Orange than 91octane! Look it up on Google, & there is some explanation in my build thread.

That's a big difference! This is 2300Km up the inland route, or 2550km if I go through Kingaroy, so I reckon I'll go straight up and catch the house in K'roy on the way back. Currently it looks like 720km to St George, next day 710Km to Clermont, third day 860km to Cairns. 6lb/in chopped Falcon springs... I don't think so! A month or two in Cairns painting the house ready for sale and then a week in K'roy fixing the roof there. Might catch up with you on the trip from there back to Orange

I don't know about the 4AGE, but the 3SGE in the Altezza has error codes that come up when you bridge two diagnostic pins. Its easy to do and anyone can do it. The engine light flashes codes in the diagnostic mode, but just stays on constantly when driving. That''s using OBD 1 I think, it was just before they went to OBD II. Someone on here will know if the 4AGE has that function. I assume you are running a stock ECU... I think problems with an oxy sensor would be logged.