altezzaclub

If you replaced the leads I assume it has one coil & a distributor with leads like a 4K. Is there any sign of the dizzy shorting out at lead #6? A crack or a black line running across the inside or the outside. Pull the lead off when its running and short it out against the motor to see the spark jump. (make a mistake and you will jump too! It should be OK with new leads... ) Do a compression test and check that #6 is OK, you might have a burnt valve. I doubt the misfire will cause any damage, everything works as usual except that cyl doesn't fire.

Konis will give you a great deal of adjustability. They can make them shorter quite easily and have them so you can adjust them stiffer or softer. The shock rates need to be matched to your spring rates, and a shock shop should be able to both measure that on a shock and also calculate your spring rate and suggest a shock to suit. Oh- I suppose you have 17" rims with tyres so small they look like a coat of paint around the rim... the smaller the sidewall the harsher the ride. The difference between a 75series and a 40 series is tremendous. So... pick between style or comfort.

I can't see how pressing them will soften them salman. Spring steel is pretty much all the same as far as I know, and spring rates depend on the thickness of the wire, the diameter or the spring & the number of coils in it. The active coils are the ones that are free to move, not the ones on the seat or ones that touch another coil. That is why cutting cols of makes a spring stiffer as well as lowering the car. So you need to change the spring to get a softer one. There are a lot of online spring rate calculators like this- http://www.racingsuspensionproducts.com/spring%20rate.htm

:: SIGH :: The Noob Guide is worth a look Kurtiz http://www.rollaclub...lub-n00b-guide/

They are held on by plastiic clips underneath, and I think I levered mine off carefully, broke the odd clp and siliconed the trim back on.

Carbs or injected?? Only carbs flood as far as I know- but you will get a raw fuel smell from an injected carb if the plugs aren't firing. From personal experience I can tell you that you get a raw fuel/flooding smell from low compression too! If there is not enough compression it can't ignite the fuel. Go check that you have spark at the spark plugs then tell us exactly what you have on the motor and just how well it was running when it went.

here's a bit of a wiring diagram I was colouring for some project. Physically the fusible links are under the exhaust manifold, as are the starter wires and the alternator wires. They all get affected by heat and a poor connection will cause them to not work occasionally. I've had to re-solder the contacts on the fusible links and the starter activator. You could disconnect the ignition key setup under the dash and use a multimeter to measure the resistances as you turn it through its different positions. If it dries out inside or gets burnt contacts it won't power the starter each time.

Well, I can't start the KE unless I use the choke, maybe not if its hot and just been running recently, so I just automatically pull on a bit of choke to start. Mine is quite distinct, its easyish to pull halfway out, which increases idle speed, then harder to pull further out as it makes it richer. Full choke for cold start, part choke for warm start- don't worry about it, it sounds normal.

..and the problem might not be with the starter motor at all, it could be in the ignition wiring, so don't blow your cash on a new starter until you know. First sort the brake lights, then have the battery checked, then make sure the key puts power down to the starter every time. The starter is hidden under the exhaust manifold and you get at it from under the car... horrible place! Find a wiring diagram for the car on the net and check for brittle/burnt wires under the exhaust manifold. Not the oil pump in a million years! Change the plugs and show us a photo of the gaps in the old ones. Check the points gap and timing, then play with the idle mixture and idle speed screws on the carb. When the motor is warm you should screw the mixture out then in half a turn at a time to get the fastest idle speed, then reset the speed with the idle speed screw. Make sure there is no water under the oil cap and no oil film in the radiator, & one day check the tappet gaps...

Save them for another project or sell them on & use the money for something smaller in diam and carrying a higher profile tyre. If you're driving the car every day then it matters more than if it is just a Sunday car. Even 215/45 on 17" get bent rims on the potholes in NSW. Anyway, rims can come at the end of the modifications, they are easy to fit & change. I remember in NZ in the 1980s Jap imprts flooded in and everyone was getting rid of hockey-stick mirrors on the front guards. The car dealers would change the mirrors and the space-saver tyre before they even put the car up for sale. Now everyone wants hockey-stick mirrors!

Walk around a wrecker with a tape measure. Old Triumphs, Datsuns.. whatever

I wondered if the actual mounts on the body were square of not. If one chassis mounts is bent out of line it means either accident damage or the factory made it like that. I don't know what the factory tolerance was, but I've just measured mine and its within a mm. I put a tape on the outside of top of the tyre, looked down and lined the guard up with the bottom of the tyre and read it. 22mm & 23mm, so the diff should be in the middle. I'd say you're up for a 4wheel alignment sometime.

It depends on how much you drive it and what sort of roads you have. The lower you make it the stiffer the suspension is, and it can be uncomfortable to drive for a while on rough & bumpy roads. The 4K can get bored out to 5K pistons, a cam grind, extractors and twin carbs or a Weber downdraught. Plenty about all of that on here with different builds. I always think the original chrome bumper/quad headlight squarenose looks best!

Take it into a rack place and ask them what is worn. If you find an exploded diagram on the web you can see what parts will wear over time, but some are more resilient than others. It maybe that a pair of rack end joints will make it like brand-new, or maybe a rack bush as well. If the rack gear/pinion is worn then its a bit more terminal.

You will only see oil under there when the motor is running and it splashes about a little. The oil is held in the sump at the bottom and pumped around as needed, and it drains back immediately. When its warmed up, what does the idle speed sound like?? Very slow or OK or too revvy?? You could wind the idle speed up if it is very slow when warm, BUT if it is only stalling at cold it is a choke problem. The choke is meant to hold the throttle open to raise the idle speed as well as block the airflow to make it richer. You might have to investigate the action of the choke carefully.

Depends how you measured "everything is pretty much square" So you had two paralell lines, one down each side of the car, & you measured the diff being 10-15mm towards one side... Did you find the spring hangars set to one side? Maybe its meant to be like that!

If it is that gasket causing the problem.. ...and finding out WHY its leaking will be harder!

Those lowered springs came out of the donor brown car, so I don't know if they are cut stockies or something else. The wire diameter is 12.2mm on both the short & stock springs, the shorts are one coil lower, (7.3 coils against 8.3coils) but they are also a fracton larger in spring diameter, 132mm stock, 134.7 short springs. Maybe that's within the factory tolerance & they are just stockies with a coil cut off. Measure the stud holes in your ROH mags and let me know. Mine are 17.2mm, impossible to find nuts for, and everything else in the world has 18.4mm holes & nuts... I'd drill the suckers but the drill bit is $55 to buy & I'd hate to get them off center!

patience... & roll them outwards from the underneath, but still not very saifactory. Some bluntish flat blade to get them started, can't remember what I used.

What is the fit like with that?? Do you have to shorten them?

The diff ratio you need depends on how fast you are going to drag to. Ideally I'd say you need to win the race just before you change gear again, so you are using 1st and 2nd to their best potential without changing gear again and losing time. 3.7 will mean you go faster in each gear before you change. A 4.3 will give the motor more revs but you will change gear more to get to the same speed. Smaller wheels have the same effect as larger diff numbers. If you use 13" they will spin very fast and you will change gear often, while 17" go faster for the same revs and you spend longer in each gear.

Could be mechanical noise from something touching as the motor leans. I get a ticking from the motor under power that changes if I pull the out the choke a couple of mm, so some vibration in the motor is rattling the choke cable and the dash is magnifying it.

Bet you didn't connect ..... idle shutoff solenoid. Actually, it should start but not idle if that was the case. If not, does it have spark at the plugs and can you see the fuel being sprayed in down the venturi by the accelerator pump?? How long has that stock carb been sitting around dry??

Here's a couple more pics-

Post up a few pics of what your DCOEs have on them for throttle connections. here's what I did- Red dots are the throttle cable, which obviously pulls. Black dots are a shaft made from buying a long bolt & welding the cable quadrant onto it. The white uprights are bits of shelving brackets I had lying around home. They bolt onto the manifold. Teal dots show the adjustable arm on the cable axle, that takes rotation to.. the purple dots and they push an adjustable Redline link bar. That rotates the green dots, an adjustable arm on the throttle shaft connecting the two carbs, shown by the yellow dots! At each end of the throttle shaft is an adjustable link onto the throttle butterfly of each carb. ..and THREE return springs, a main one for the cable part and one on each carb in case the main one breaks. So it is all fully adjustable to turn the correct rotation from the cable to the correct rotation of the butterflies. You don't want to have the butterflies full open at 80% of pedal travel or you break something by pushing the pedal too hard, and you don't want full pedal travel to open the butterflies 80% only.