altezzaclub

Well, today my mate who's house I work on is trading in his old Feral Landcruiser for a flash new Isuzu 4WD. He's keen to take his camper trailer up to Lake Eyre in September and take a look (He's a geologist/botanist/environmentalist, so he'll enjoy it) He & his wife would like my wife & I to go too, but I don't have a use for a 4WD at all, certainly not a ute. Its just another $1000/year rego/insurance sitting in the drive depreciating unless its being driven. So, I dredged up the story from Topgear below, watched episode one, and decided I won't learn a lot as the whole thing is so faked. Has anyone been up there and is a 2WD or a Tercel likely to make it?? The KE70 is probably a bit small overall for us and luggage and all 1300cc of it, so really I've got The White Whale, a Skyline type Pintara wagon to take. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/45979-ke25-on-top-gear-australia/page__st__45 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42943-corolla-on-top-gear-australia/page__hl__topgear

Far too complicated! Just fit them and run them, they will probably be fine! If you have problems with it being too rich, buy a 0-5psi regulator for $50 and put it in the line between the pump and the carbs.

Lovely work on those manifolds! That's a lot of grunt for a lightweight car!

That would be best, build a spare and swap it over. Failing that, get the second head done and ready to go before you pull the current one apart. Get the flywheel lightened and the whole lot balanced while you have the crank out. You'll need a ring compressor if you have the pistons out, and a torque wrench. Buy the torque wrench but borrow or hire the ring compressor. I don't know how the gudgeon pins are mounted on the con rods, but If you fit new pistons have a machine shop do it if they are pressed in. That's too easy to ruin at home. Pay a machine shop to clean everything, especially the block. If you need it rebored or honed they will do it, but if not just take all the bits in after you've pulled it apart and get it all cleaned in a bath. Get back the parts cleaned, the new pistons on the conrods, and assemble it all at home. I can't see it being done in a week unless you pre-order parts and have the machine shops ready to do the engineering at a day's notice.

Just PM Redwarf or one of them from a post they've made. So.. the module can pump out enough grunt to fire a plug, and you've sorted the leads. That leaves ECU problem not telling the dizzy to fire, rotor/cap short, plug problem, or something internal like compression. Sooner of later you'll need to change plugs, so it might as well be now! Just make sure you put a touch of grease on their threads and screw them in by hand.

Well done! Love the advance mods! Nothing like low-budget to make you think clever!

Does it have a condenser or is it all electronic in the dizzy?? Holding it 3/4" away makes it buid up a higher voltage before it fires. Swap the plugs from 1 & 4 to 2 & 3, so you get good plugs in the middle cylinder for a start. See if they die immediately or it runs fine for a few minutes then kills a plug. Might pay to take the rotor & the dizzy cap from the wreck in case yours has a crack somewhere.

He's dead right- the usual extractors are 4 into 1 and end in a 2" pipe. I ran that to a 2" resonator then shrunk it to inch &3/4 for the pipe to the back. Lots of guys use 2", it depends on your cam & how much time you spend at high revs and how much time at low revs. If you're driving it around town with a cam under 270deg all you'll get from 2" will be a headache as it uses the passenger compartment as a giant resonator..

Arrgh! Isn't it terrible how jobs just get bigger and bigger and bigger! I hope you've got her in there with a bog file and some sandpaper! :laff:

Good grief! We ran the Datsun 1600 rally car on twin 45s using the stock mechanical pump & stock lines, and that was good for 150bhp. Rob is right, you only need low pressure for Webers. Sell the Carter pump and get some money back.

I used Coronas. About 5mm longer each side. Mitsis also can be fitted but they are too wide. If you go too long you will have a steering arm drop out of its thread one day... Think about what it does to your other suspension angles...

You did it wrong.. as you are going to do a lot of thigs wrong in the next 10years! :laff: But don't worry, after that you'll be sweet! I bought my first car as soon as I got my licence at 15 too. Basically you connected the battery +ve to earth somehow and pushed 500amps down a wire that is probably melted by now! Anyway- do you have a wiring diagram? Find one of those over the net somewhere, and chase a workshp manual for the car on Fleabay or 2nd-hand bookshops or whatever. Take a camera down to your local wrecker and photograph any KEs down there, make notes about which wire goes where. I don't know how a KE55 does it, I have a KE70. To replace the big wires off the battery terminal either hit the wrecker or see a battery shop with your old one. They can make a copy.

nah- they've got their propaganda on every night about 'speed kills'& 'always buckle up' and whatever else they are wagging their finger at us about. We need to keep our enthusiasm for crazy driving going too!

lol! Well, that was unusual, but you never know what happens on the racetrack!

That shouldn't be a problem with a supercharger, as they do all the bottom end work don't they? The problem is they run out of puff at high revs, which is where your turbo takes over. What do VW do? They have a lot of experience at twincharging.

Put some of the money into doing up the 4K. Do a compression test and see how good it is now. I assume its a 5speed, if not start there. Get it out to 1500cc, cam, carbs, head job, exhaust, light flywheel, all balanced.... Then put some money into the suspension & handling and whatever to get it the way you like it. Once you've got a car you're happy with then save for the 4AGE.

Lets have a big "dismantle the back porch carport and re-assemble it" at my place in Kingaroy at the end of the month! I need to go to Cairns to fix up a house to sell, and have to drop into a 10acre block I've got at K'roy and fix the gutter problems.... I usually go up through Toowoomba. Thinking of taking the KE70 at the moment, just a bit slower each day than the Altezza, adds up over 5500Km.

Ok- under the edge on each one should be a little moveable piston that lifts the main piston up inside the chamber. That alters the airflow over the venturi throat and hence changes the mixture. With it idling you lift one piston a few mm and feel for when it start to life the main piston. There should be a noticeable bit of added weight when it starts to lift it. You could look down the throat and see. Then lift the main piston a few mm and see what the revs do. If it is too lean, it will die. If it is about right it will speed up a little, then die if you lift it any more. if it is too rich it will speed up all the way through. You check each carb and adjust the idle mixture as needed. Once idle mix is set, you are relying on the needle taper to run the motor over all its revs. You can make a needle richer by sanding it away easily enough, its what I did with mine. After that, the oil is next. When you boot it suddnely, the oil in the dashpot stops the piston leaping up and letting too much air in at reduced suction. The oil holds the piston down over the venturi floor and the extra suction richens the mixture for acceleration momentarily. Thicker oil makes it richer, thinner oil makes it leaner. Try anything from SAE 50 down to 10, & although automatic gearbox ATF is most common plenty of people use engine oil. The springs inside the carb top hat hold the piston down and so keep it richer after the piston lets it up. You can get three different springs, or take them out and see how it goes. I think they have more of an effect at high engine revs. See if there's anything helpful in here, or PM me with questions. Mine are running superbly! http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

That is normal, the fuel goes in, through the filter, around the air bubble and out without any trouble. I don't thnk so, if anything is blocking it the chances are it is rust scale. Is there a return line in the system to take fuel that the carb doesn't need back to the tank?? ..and is the tank vented through the charcoal filter or has it been hacked so now it is sucking against a vacuum??

lol!! You tell us what you think you can spend on an engine conversion and then we can all have a laugh.. Either you put out say $2000 for carbs/cam/exhaust & a motor freshen up.... or you put out $10,000 for a motor transplant. It depends on how much you can do yourself. Can you strip & rebuild a motor with new pistons/bearings/head job and modify inlet systems with a bit of engineering?? Can you spend weeks researching which steering systems can be fitted to clear your Evo or whatever motor, what brakes and suspension you will need to get it engineered (that's on top of the $10,000!) and can you wire up an aftermarket ECU so it works?? Start off with this sort of stuff and work your way upwards... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

true- what we need is a Govt with no power over its people.

Lol! I see what you mean Jase. Its had the whole accelerator pump system removed.... I don't know how it ran like that previously, the turbo must cover for that somehow, but I'm sure a stock carb on there will be quite different.

Well well.... more censorship of ideas by the Left Wing... not that the other bunch of parasites will recind these laws when they get in at the next election. This is not Left versus Right, it is Govt versus The People. So, Rollaclub will have more than 15000 hits I'm sure, so any opinions expressed on here about CO2, global warming, modern cars, anti-pollution gear... they will all be sifted through and measured by your masters. I'm sorry, WHY do we need a Govt agin?

jase I'd have anotehr look at your accelerator pump if I were you. In the photo here (brand-new from China carbs!) the lower arrow is on the throttle and moves upwards, and the upper arrow is on the accelerator pump and pushes it downwards. YOu should see a jet of fuel going into the throat just at the venturi. If you don't, then pull that pump arm off and take the piston out. There is a ball bearing in a housing in the base that acts as a one-way valve, and that ball will get stuck in the evaporated goop when the car is left for a few weeks. Also, the piston is made of some flexible plastic that will shrink when dried out. I got a 5ml plastic syringe and pumped petrol through there when I had it stripped. If you can't get a jet of fuel to come out into the throat then something is not working.

Solved your problem!! Here you are...