altezzaclub

I shut it down by just taping over the inlet at the drum base and took the chimney off to tape over the hole in the lid. When I opened it up this morning it was slightly warm, and over 90% was charcoal. With the fuel being shrubby it didn't transfer the glowing smolder fom one bit to another at 100%. I sieved it through a baker's bread tray, so about 20mm squares, and I'll smash up the bigger pieces later.

Some smoke leaked out the lid (torn-up sheet as a seal!) and around the brick in the bottom hole (the air inlet) but a hit with black PVC tape fixed that. I ran it from about 8pm when the wind was zero until just after midnight when the flames stopped roaring out of the chimney and the amount of smoke coming out had dropped. The drum gets up to about 70deg, not enough to melt the tape, but the axle in the chimney was glowing red-hot!

Well, I loaded it up yesterday with twin gas pipes and a chimney throttle. The fuel was pretty shrubby this time, old garden bushes and walnut shells, like this- I packed it to the top, dragged it down to a pumpkin patch and set it going.

So it relies on the leaf springs to keep it straight. Pop the front eyes out of their chassis mounts and see if they line up OK when they're relaxed & hanging. There may be a bent mount or kink in the chassis. Also, loosen the ubolts and push the springs around a bit to let them sit where they should. See if they line up any better. What I have done in the past is to stretch a fine string around the tyres right down on the garage floor such that it grips under each tyre edge. Then I mark for floor with chalk where the string is and move the car. I grab a tape to see if the rectangle I've drawn actually IS a rectangle and not a paralellogram!

LOL! Nice- that is very astute, but it might be his panelvan... Which car is it Chris? Oh- to be serious, if it isn't that problem, first check the backing plates are secure behind the brake drums and that an axle isn't coming out. Then get a wheel alignment. The guy should be able to tell you straight away.

::sigh:: I think I'll put some thought into some sort of simple anti-theft system, this is all too common. Hope you get it back!

Find a wiring diagram and make sure there is nothing else on that circuit, then measure the resistance of the fans with a $10 multimeter and find out what they should be. I don't think they give 'increased resistance' issues, its more likely they either work or burn out. Nothing wrong with generic relays compared to wrecker's ones.

Well, today my mate who's house I work on is trading in his old Feral Landcruiser for a flash new Isuzu 4WD. He's keen to take his camper trailer up to Lake Eyre in September and take a look (He's a geologist/botanist/environmentalist, so he'll enjoy it) He & his wife would like my wife & I to go too, but I don't have a use for a 4WD at all, certainly not a ute. Its just another $1000/year rego/insurance sitting in the drive depreciating unless its being driven. So, I dredged up the story from Topgear below, watched episode one, and decided I won't learn a lot as the whole thing is so faked. Has anyone been up there and is a 2WD or a Tercel likely to make it?? The KE70 is probably a bit small overall for us and luggage and all 1300cc of it, so really I've got The White Whale, a Skyline type Pintara wagon to take. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/45979-ke25-on-top-gear-australia/page__st__45 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42943-corolla-on-top-gear-australia/page__hl__topgear

Far too complicated! Just fit them and run them, they will probably be fine! If you have problems with it being too rich, buy a 0-5psi regulator for $50 and put it in the line between the pump and the carbs.

Lovely work on those manifolds! That's a lot of grunt for a lightweight car!

That would be best, build a spare and swap it over. Failing that, get the second head done and ready to go before you pull the current one apart. Get the flywheel lightened and the whole lot balanced while you have the crank out. You'll need a ring compressor if you have the pistons out, and a torque wrench. Buy the torque wrench but borrow or hire the ring compressor. I don't know how the gudgeon pins are mounted on the con rods, but If you fit new pistons have a machine shop do it if they are pressed in. That's too easy to ruin at home. Pay a machine shop to clean everything, especially the block. If you need it rebored or honed they will do it, but if not just take all the bits in after you've pulled it apart and get it all cleaned in a bath. Get back the parts cleaned, the new pistons on the conrods, and assemble it all at home. I can't see it being done in a week unless you pre-order parts and have the machine shops ready to do the engineering at a day's notice.

Just PM Redwarf or one of them from a post they've made. So.. the module can pump out enough grunt to fire a plug, and you've sorted the leads. That leaves ECU problem not telling the dizzy to fire, rotor/cap short, plug problem, or something internal like compression. Sooner of later you'll need to change plugs, so it might as well be now! Just make sure you put a touch of grease on their threads and screw them in by hand.

Well done! Love the advance mods! Nothing like low-budget to make you think clever!

Does it have a condenser or is it all electronic in the dizzy?? Holding it 3/4" away makes it buid up a higher voltage before it fires. Swap the plugs from 1 & 4 to 2 & 3, so you get good plugs in the middle cylinder for a start. See if they die immediately or it runs fine for a few minutes then kills a plug. Might pay to take the rotor & the dizzy cap from the wreck in case yours has a crack somewhere.

He's dead right- the usual extractors are 4 into 1 and end in a 2" pipe. I ran that to a 2" resonator then shrunk it to inch &3/4 for the pipe to the back. Lots of guys use 2", it depends on your cam & how much time you spend at high revs and how much time at low revs. If you're driving it around town with a cam under 270deg all you'll get from 2" will be a headache as it uses the passenger compartment as a giant resonator..

Arrgh! Isn't it terrible how jobs just get bigger and bigger and bigger! I hope you've got her in there with a bog file and some sandpaper! :laff:

Good grief! We ran the Datsun 1600 rally car on twin 45s using the stock mechanical pump & stock lines, and that was good for 150bhp. Rob is right, you only need low pressure for Webers. Sell the Carter pump and get some money back.

I used Coronas. About 5mm longer each side. Mitsis also can be fitted but they are too wide. If you go too long you will have a steering arm drop out of its thread one day... Think about what it does to your other suspension angles...

You did it wrong.. as you are going to do a lot of thigs wrong in the next 10years! :laff: But don't worry, after that you'll be sweet! I bought my first car as soon as I got my licence at 15 too. Basically you connected the battery +ve to earth somehow and pushed 500amps down a wire that is probably melted by now! Anyway- do you have a wiring diagram? Find one of those over the net somewhere, and chase a workshp manual for the car on Fleabay or 2nd-hand bookshops or whatever. Take a camera down to your local wrecker and photograph any KEs down there, make notes about which wire goes where. I don't know how a KE55 does it, I have a KE70. To replace the big wires off the battery terminal either hit the wrecker or see a battery shop with your old one. They can make a copy.

nah- they've got their propaganda on every night about 'speed kills'& 'always buckle up' and whatever else they are wagging their finger at us about. We need to keep our enthusiasm for crazy driving going too!

lol! Well, that was unusual, but you never know what happens on the racetrack!

That shouldn't be a problem with a supercharger, as they do all the bottom end work don't they? The problem is they run out of puff at high revs, which is where your turbo takes over. What do VW do? They have a lot of experience at twincharging.

Put some of the money into doing up the 4K. Do a compression test and see how good it is now. I assume its a 5speed, if not start there. Get it out to 1500cc, cam, carbs, head job, exhaust, light flywheel, all balanced.... Then put some money into the suspension & handling and whatever to get it the way you like it. Once you've got a car you're happy with then save for the 4AGE.

Lets have a big "dismantle the back porch carport and re-assemble it" at my place in Kingaroy at the end of the month! I need to go to Cairns to fix up a house to sell, and have to drop into a 10acre block I've got at K'roy and fix the gutter problems.... I usually go up through Toowoomba. Thinking of taking the KE70 at the moment, just a bit slower each day than the Altezza, adds up over 5500Km.

Ok- under the edge on each one should be a little moveable piston that lifts the main piston up inside the chamber. That alters the airflow over the venturi throat and hence changes the mixture. With it idling you lift one piston a few mm and feel for when it start to life the main piston. There should be a noticeable bit of added weight when it starts to lift it. You could look down the throat and see. Then lift the main piston a few mm and see what the revs do. If it is too lean, it will die. If it is about right it will speed up a little, then die if you lift it any more. if it is too rich it will speed up all the way through. You check each carb and adjust the idle mixture as needed. Once idle mix is set, you are relying on the needle taper to run the motor over all its revs. You can make a needle richer by sanding it away easily enough, its what I did with mine. After that, the oil is next. When you boot it suddnely, the oil in the dashpot stops the piston leaping up and letting too much air in at reduced suction. The oil holds the piston down over the venturi floor and the extra suction richens the mixture for acceleration momentarily. Thicker oil makes it richer, thinner oil makes it leaner. Try anything from SAE 50 down to 10, & although automatic gearbox ATF is most common plenty of people use engine oil. The springs inside the carb top hat hold the piston down and so keep it richer after the piston lets it up. You can get three different springs, or take them out and see how it goes. I think they have more of an effect at high engine revs. See if there's anything helpful in here, or PM me with questions. Mine are running superbly! http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/