altezzaclub

The water is getting hotter, but the frogs don't notice.. Everyvun MUST be a criminal! This is the creeping tyranny, from a trial of sign-posted speed cameras that ticketed the top 15% of speeding subjects, to hidden cameras that fine everyone over the limit. ..and now the limit is coming down! My speedo has an 8% error, the norm is about 5%. The tolerance has been 10kph since I got my licence in 1965. New Zealand news-

lol Evan.. you mean this problem- Nik, there are several Holden V6 motors in Corollas on here, but turning the Camry motor around would be a pain.

Well done! Subtle problems like those are the worst. The engine mounts on the Daewoo Nubira (we were given for free... says a lot! ) were so badly designed it would pull the top radiator hose off. That taught the family to drive smoothly..:laff:

Its just the diaphram inside that has developed a hole. Check and see if the diaphram is still a part available.

Sorry, you're right Taz, the Skyine was NA, so it sucked the water in. The washer pump could pump under pressure, but I think Dave's setup is more elegant. That way the pressur varies with boost and you don't need an extra pump.

Carbs I don't know, but we used to do that to the exhaust when rallying. Tune the exhaust & have it exiting in front of the rear wheel, out the side. Then put a plate over it so it goes out through the muffler at the back to drive to the rally and back. Mate had the pipe sliced open on both sides under the passenger's floor with a section of pipe over it. He had a cable going inside that he pulled while waiting for the stage to start, and that pulled the outside pipe down the tube and opened it up.

They will remain unknown.... :laff:

When I went back to NZ in '86 I worked for a guy who prepared rally/race motors until I got a real job. (Jamie Aislabie in Rotorua) In those days turbos were pretty new on the scene, & he had a Honda Prelude with a home-built turbo setup and water injection. When the turbo came on boost it started a windscreen washer pump that fired water into the inlet through a syringe. He said it stopped detonation and allowed higher boost, simple and effective. I ran a water injection system on my Skyline a decade later just to help it burn cleaner and last longer, a needle into the vac advance port that sucked water in from a second washer bottle..

OMG! There must be such a demand for those motors they can ship them out in boxes without ever fitting them to a motorbike!

But of course! You can calculate spring rates here. http://www.stockcarproducts.com/pstech10.htm Coils that sit on the seat or are touching the next coil are not 'active', so count the coils in between. The stock springs we took off the KE70 were free height front 363mm, rear368mm The ride height was front 635mm, rear 645mm The short springs we replaced them with were front 335mm (one coil off) rear 342mm (one & half coils off) The ride height was then 610mm both ends. The suspension is firm, almost stiff, I wouldn't want it any harder. More choppy than the Altezza, which is what 20years of suspension engineering does!

If you can take the old one off you can fit a new one easily enough. This is the arm from the pivot up to the windscreen wiper blade is it??

lol! its automatic.. when you type certain words it displays something else. I think m i n t becomes over-rated... :laff: Lovely car, don't do anything to it that can't be put back to stock. In 10years there will hardly be a KE70 left on the roads.

I don't know about the RX7s, but anything that has a coil rear end will be a starter. Common ones seem to be Skyline or Hilux, but I'd expect they all need mounts cutting off and welding on again. I'd get it running with what you have first and see if it all stays together. You can get an LSD for your T series diff without adding a lot of extra weight to the rear axle. - this is the FAQ/Wiki page http://www.rollaclub...ferential_Gears

My favourites link goes straight to "view new content". If I ever end up on the real front page I'm completely lost!! :laff: i'm happy to keep the FS topics in there, I look through the odd one now and them & dream... I probably never would otherwise as I'm not hunting anything specific.

Noo!! ! I'm afraid I grabbed the wrong one off the shelf last night! The YZZD2 is for my Altezza, the 4K ones I have are 90915-10003, for 4K and 5K series. I'll go back up and edit my earlier post.

nice- I see the Courts in the USA are arguing over whether the Govt can demand your encryption key from you. I've just heard about a smartphone app that pretends to be a wireless router and copys all the data as it goes through, so I think this is getting to be important.

yeah- poor little 1300 doesn't need much at all. If its not a racecar you never even fill 2" really, I start at 2" and go to 1& 3/4" after the resonator.

We used to get a Mini rear brake limiter from the wreckers & drill/tap the end of it. Then we would fit a bolt with a "T" piece welded to it in that hole. When we wound it in it would push against the limiting spring, increasing the pressure that the rear brakes were fed. That way we could sit in the car and alter rear brake bias in a special stage. So if your rear brakes are going to be too big, fit something like that where you can dial in the amount of pressure going to them.

Thanks Jake- do you want to start a new goup-buy thread for them?? Everyone in the club needs them, and I'll need more in a year or 18months.

If you block the overflows it will push more through the jets I'm pretty sure! You can buy adjustable fuel pressure regulators for about $50, which is what I use on the SUs. Mine set at about 1psi, 5 is the max I think. They might help a bit. Overall I think its a carb design fault you have, and mayby a carb facing at 90deg would help. Webers DCOEs starve going around left-hand corners, and flood a little going around right-handders, or vice versa.. but anyway, its a common problem of g-forces not being vertical. If you turn the carb 180deg it will flood going downhill, that's probably better, but it might starve going uphill then. EFi it!! :laff:

The rotor looks like this on mine. I marked the flywheel out to 50deg when I was doing the advance curve, so it has a lot of white paint on, but it is sitting on 8deg BTDC in the photo, that's what the yellow lines show. Number one firing means rotor points to the engine block, and is swinging clockwise towards number 3.

I bought half a dozen (90915 YZZD2) 90915-10003 so they must be the option. Maybe we can start a Group-buy from a mechanic/sales rep on here. Edit- (The YZZD2 is for the Altezza/Celica, I grabbed from the wrong pile in the garage!)

Good question Rian.. I wouldn't have a clue! I suppose the rim is a two-piece or a 3piece that bolts the tyre center on. You don't need to seal them for air loss!

If you mean the Toyota filters, they are straight from a Toyota dealer or any helpful member of Rollaclub who works at Toyota... i bought half a dozen from one of our members after the oil filter on the car (covered in Japanese writing) let the filter drain each night. That marked the bearings as it filled up every morning with no oil pressure and eventually I replaced the bearings.

They usually do have a blown-up view, they are selling their invesment service of course. However, when it comes to economic philosophy they are outright Libertarians and use the figures to expose some nasty trends that main-stream media ignores. It appears Govts are not paying down the debt that caused the depression across the world, they are just continuing to borrow & kick the can down to road while they hope it won't blow up when they're in power. I'd say the best we can hope for it to have a resonably level standard of living for a generation, so there won't be the massive steps ahead my generation has seen. Although Aussie looks like escaping the worst of it, Canberra's debt has doubled since 2009 & Victoria's has gone from $3billion to $15Billion. That's a lot higher than wages have gone up!