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altezzaclub

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Everything posted by altezzaclub

  1. That should work better than stock, seeing stock has the two hoses six inches apart and that's all the clean air that gets in! Keep an eye on the oil buildup on the throttle body. mmmm... supercharger whine!
  2. Just as Trev says. I had to re-do mine with the twin carbs. The yellow line contains the PCV & goes to the inlet manifold after the throttles, so max vac. The green line goes behind the air filter so lets in clean air. The PCV shuts under high vac (at idle) so won't let air through and fumes go out the 'in' tube into the air cleaner box. The PCV opens at low vac, (high-speed acceleration, Wide Open Throttle stuff) so it can suck the much greater volume of fumes getting past the rings, and clean air goes inwards through the "in" tube on the air cleaner. Make sure you end up with the PCV valve facing the right way.
  3. Yesterday I headed of with a mate to load his early 90's Landcruiser with gravel... It made a very distinct 'ting ting' as he let the clutch out, and he said it has been making it for a month now. When he parked it I grabbed the d'shaft. Solid as a rock. Same thing going home loaded, so when it was empty I said to park it level with the handbrake on & out of gear. "Oh, the handbrake is useless (on discs!) and I always leave it in gear" Once we had it sitting freely the driveshaft was loose in the UJ, and once we had it off the pinion flange is loose with a little oil leaking out. $28 for a new UJ, we stripped it but I've asked another mate to press the new one in, and I'll tackle the pinion after lunch. Tomas 5mm will cause a terrific vibration, less than that will especially if it is a "loose" movement and not damped. The d/s should be firm in the rubber coupling and any movement should involve crushing the rubber. Either replace it or get it looked at. The driveline garage will check them all.
  4. A few guys in Altezzaclub have converted to ITBs, it makes a stunning difference. I haven't heard of anyone going to carbs, although a couple of guys have bought new cams and taken of the VVTi. I'd get one in there and get it all running sweetly in stock form before I tried modding anything. There is a lot of work in just doing that. Put aside $2500-$3000 and get a halfcut. That way you get every piece of wiring you need. When you need manuals and wiring diagrams give me a call.
  5. So... is this a massive air leak into the motor?? Something is not right with this story. You need clean air going in and dirty air being sucked out. I'd run a tube into a plastic coke bottle for a few days and see how much vapour comes out. Block the one into the intake and see if that makes a difference to the running. There should be a PCV valve on the motor somewhere, maybe the tappet cover line is the clean air in, not vapour out, with the PCV under the injection manifold like my Pintara. I couldn't find it for ages until I saw one at the wrecker with the inlet manifold off! :laff: The sump gaskets leak at the drop of a hat, so quite likely you don't have an over-pressure problem, just a sump gasket like mine!
  6. Lol! i'm sure you win a prize for that! So... for the cost of a shipping crate we could send you a couple of motors.. :laff:
  7. Any trace of leaking in the past? Something that would have warped the head like rad hose or heater hose? You could treat it as a chance to warm it up a little... do some porting for a future DCOE conversion and take 20thou off for a bit more compression. Then again, most of the work for a 4AGE conversion is already done, unlike the KE70s. Nice buy, it looks very smart.
  8. Love that air cleaner arrangement Evan! :y:
  9. Unless you're better with words than Shakespeare, you haven't a hope of getting us to imagine the noise you're hearing. The only answer is- Is it a Tercel? with its three whiny diffs??
  10. lol! That was my job when I was a teenager working odd hours at a general engineer's & we built a beach buggy... Lightened everything and weighed the pistons & had it all balanced. So.... I'd love to think the #1 piston touched the exhaust valve and bent it a fraction, which is what it sounds like, but if its in #2 I just don't know. ..and it hasn't run enough to colour the valves from that incident. A cyl low on compression has black exhaust valves, while a good one has ash-brown valves. I don't suppose you can remember what they looked like... Compression test or head off I suppose.
  11. So... google is a mess when it comes to sorting out the dozens of models on the A60 chassis, and a lot of people just think its an ST or a GT or something... The RA60 & RA61 have lights that pop forward and up? '81 '82 & '83? the RA63 shows both types... and the RA64 & RA65 has lights that pop back and up? They were only in '83 '84 & '85?
  12. You can replace the flipup lights with fixed vertical ones, or get rid of the shovel-nose for a flat-front. Got money? Sadlly, they are ugly. I'm thinking of getting one when the girl's KE70 heads off to University & I finish my Datsun 1600, but something needs to be done about that nose. Its like the flat-front KE70 & the slanty... or the flat-front Mk2 Escort & the RS2000 droop-snoot. A bad time in car design.
  13. That's odd... but odd things do happen! The explosion should have gone passed the open inlet and back up the manifold through the carb. The exhaust valve would have been sealed shut, and that much exploding gas shouldn't have got passed the inlet valve stem seal.. We had the same when fitting twin DCOEs on the Datsun 510 one time and we used a welding torch to bend the steel PCV pipe coming out of the block under them. The fuel had flooded past the rings into the crankcase and ignited inside the motor. When we started it there was a terrible clack clack clack... it had blown the oil splash plate inside the top of the tappet cover downwards and a cam lobe was tapping it! If you'd been cranking it and pumping the throttle you might have had the same. Why did you do pistons and rings? What did the valves look like when you had the head off?? I assume you didn't take them out.
  14. Buy a compression guage and do a compression test. ....or have a garage do one, preferably a leak-down test. Remember that #2cyl exhaust valve opens as #1cyl comes up on compression, so maybe we can hear the exhaust valve in #1cyl leaking. If it is the #2cyl exhaust squeaking as it opens.. well, a dry valve guide, a ruined valve stem seal, a worn/dry rocker... I've never heard that noise before, except from a burnt valve.
  15. Well, you can see from your own photos in post #14 that the hoist lifts the car in exactly the wrong places. Can you put a piece of timber along the car underneath to support the floor flat while you have the channel cut off? I haven't seen under those Corollas but I don't expect the floor to be flat so the timber would need some spacers. Certainly you will want it supported at the front pillar, the rear wheel arch and in the middle. Maybe three axle stands.. You don't have to lift the car right off its wheels if you don't mind working while lying on the floor so the suspension still takes some weight. Are your new channels just a top and an outside curve? I assume they are. So take a grinder and cut the old channel off on one side and see if the doors open & shut OK without it. That will tell you how much it sags.
  16. Depends on how far/fast you drag to. You can lower all the gears by going to 4.3, but you will have to change into 3rd at a lower speed and may have to change into 4th where in the old days you were still in third. So its important to cross the finish line with the minimum number of geachanges, as well as having a low enough diff to get off the line well. If you lower the diff to 5.1 you wll be making a lot of gearchanges. Investigate what the vans run, see if you can get a 4.6.
  17. Clever! Mate of mine bought a new one for $16k, its very flash. So far its sat at his place for 6months after we put it up on the front lawn once, as he works at a mine. Well, used to, last week he lost that job and now can't afford to go away in it. The plan was to go & see Lake Eyre in flood....
  18. If the inside (vertical) part of the channel was OK we would cut along the outside top edge of both the car channel and the new one, then weld right along that seam. Its not as good as replacing the top (horizontal) part as well, but it saved a lot of work taking the old channel off the pillars.
  19. Worst comes to worst, just take it to an exhaust shop.
  20. What's a 4K worth at your local wrecker? Buy a running spare and fit it, then strip yours and learn all about it. If you've replaced the water pump & t'stat you're halfway there! $875 is crazy for such a simple job.
  21. Make absolutely sure it is the head gasket before starting on it. Its not a big or difficult job, any home mechanic with a torque wrench can do it. You will have to pay to have the head skimmed flat, about $80. Look at it as an opportunity to catch up on maintenence and do some mods- How is the condition of the motor overall?? Check every bolt/nut & bolthole for being clean and smooth to the end of the thread Get the head skimmed more to raise the compression ratio. Pull the block out and drop the sump- check bearings and upgrade the oil pump with the washer trick. Tip the motor over and get all the rust out of the block with a wire Buy a set of extractors and fit them Carve out the ports and match the inlet manifold, clean the inlet manifold up inside & polish any sharp curves You might as well make it faster and better while its apart.
  22. Speaking of which... anyone want to run a book on how many cops will be checking cars in the carpark at this meeting? 10? 15? 20+?
  23. maaate! You should see the roads around Orange and the Central West! We ahve every sort of surfacedefect you can find, from potholes to alligator cracking. The surface is so bad it throws the car around and their answer was to drop the speed limit on the road to Cargo to 80kph. Add kangaroos at any time from 4pm to 8am, and trees right beside the road and of course you will kill a lot of people. That's without counting the B-trains of 30 or 40tons who roll, jack-knife, lose loads of steel, lose wheels... The Govts don't really want to stop accidents, think of how many people they keep employed!
  24. i've never seen a Govt Dept worry about unintended consequences! Of course it will cost jobs in some private sectors, but new laws always open up new jobs in the bureaucrat's sectors and some for crony capitalists. In this case there will be more people involved in checking that these regs are being followed, read "more cops, lawyers, magistrates, Counrt balffs" etc. The crony capitalists here will be the engineers who make their living from Govt regulations, and they will be pushing to make it as hard as possible to become a certifying engineer (always fight to raise the entry bar) and to limit the numbers of engineers in the market. (more Govt regs to control the number of people doing it to keep prices up) On top of that they will be working hand-in-glove with Govt bureaucras for more rules and interpretations down the line. We already have thousands of illegal cars, this just raises the bar to legality and becomes just one more entry-line on the ticket they write you for a non-complying vehicle. Some people worry about that, others couldn't give a shit. Overall it is one more little step by the Federal Govt to take over the power of State Govts and display their complete uselessness. The moment Canberra was allowed to tax people the State Govts became useless and should have been disbanded. We would have the same laws for everything over the whole country, for better or for worse. Anyway, who is going to organsie a club run down there that day? (oops sorry Irokin)
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