altezzaclub

That is normal, the fuel goes in, through the filter, around the air bubble and out without any trouble. I don't thnk so, if anything is blocking it the chances are it is rust scale. Is there a return line in the system to take fuel that the carb doesn't need back to the tank?? ..and is the tank vented through the charcoal filter or has it been hacked so now it is sucking against a vacuum??

lol!! You tell us what you think you can spend on an engine conversion and then we can all have a laugh.. Either you put out say $2000 for carbs/cam/exhaust & a motor freshen up.... or you put out $10,000 for a motor transplant. It depends on how much you can do yourself. Can you strip & rebuild a motor with new pistons/bearings/head job and modify inlet systems with a bit of engineering?? Can you spend weeks researching which steering systems can be fitted to clear your Evo or whatever motor, what brakes and suspension you will need to get it engineered (that's on top of the $10,000!) and can you wire up an aftermarket ECU so it works?? Start off with this sort of stuff and work your way upwards... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

true- what we need is a Govt with no power over its people.

Lol! I see what you mean Jase. Its had the whole accelerator pump system removed.... I don't know how it ran like that previously, the turbo must cover for that somehow, but I'm sure a stock carb on there will be quite different.

Well well.... more censorship of ideas by the Left Wing... not that the other bunch of parasites will recind these laws when they get in at the next election. This is not Left versus Right, it is Govt versus The People. So, Rollaclub will have more than 15000 hits I'm sure, so any opinions expressed on here about CO2, global warming, modern cars, anti-pollution gear... they will all be sifted through and measured by your masters. I'm sorry, WHY do we need a Govt agin?

jase I'd have anotehr look at your accelerator pump if I were you. In the photo here (brand-new from China carbs!) the lower arrow is on the throttle and moves upwards, and the upper arrow is on the accelerator pump and pushes it downwards. YOu should see a jet of fuel going into the throat just at the venturi. If you don't, then pull that pump arm off and take the piston out. There is a ball bearing in a housing in the base that acts as a one-way valve, and that ball will get stuck in the evaporated goop when the car is left for a few weeks. Also, the piston is made of some flexible plastic that will shrink when dried out. I got a 5ml plastic syringe and pumped petrol through there when I had it stripped. If you can't get a jet of fuel to come out into the throat then something is not working.

Solved your problem!! Here you are...

Ah... gold!

Here- this will help. He wrote a Masters thesis on brake cooling. http://researchbank.rmit.edu.au/eserv/rmit:6207/Stephens.pdf I assume you are going to mount the air intake tube as close to the centre of the backing plate as possible, as you need to get the air right into the middle of the disc so it flows outwards through the vents.

I assume you just swap the nose of the driveshaft over. Fit a new UJ while you're there. I had to do that to turn my auto driveshaft into a manual one.

Forget towing it! You would need to stay overnight several times going up and down, plus the hassle and the likelyhood of writing yourself off under a truck if you haven't towed before. Just pay the money to have a car-trucking firm deliver it. Have you had any of the Tassie boys take a look at it for just how mobile it is??

You're right, you should see a jet of fuel squirting down the carb throat. Just pull the pump jet apart and check the diaphram and drillings etc until you find out why. It could be your problem, but it only makles a difference for about 1second , as you actually push the throttle down, and after that its up to the main jet. So if your motor dies for longer than that its probably not the pump jet causing it. Still, easy enough to fix and see....

So you have replaced the brake drums & shoes, and the pads & rotors... Those are all the parts that rub together under braking. How about part of the body or suspension that moves when you get nose-dive under heavy brake? Does something move so it can rub on a rotating part?? A stone in behind the rotor?? No, you would've seen anything like that when you changed it all. Handbrake cable? I assume the tail lifts as the nose dives.

One reason would be cold air going in is denser. That's why cars run better on cold nights. A motor is designed to run between about 75deg and 90deg. That suits the metals and the lubrication, so the system is designed to get up to those temperatures as soon as possible then level off and stay there no matter what load you put it under. That's why you need a thermostat and warm air intakes when you start driving, then cold air when the motor is up to temperature.

smiles&lies .....hmmm... You're not Juliar Gillard or Tony Abbot in disguise by any chance??

Lovely! ...but a shitload of work to do that! Back in the late '60s people were building twini-minis with a Mini motor at each end to get the same effect.

Pull the carb apart and clean it. I did it yesterday to my Datsun 1600 that I haven't started in ages. Cranked fine but would only briefly fire up when I poured raw petrol down the carb throat. Took the carb off, found all the jets full of a sludgy black goo. Obviously the petrol residue left as it evaporated. I used a syringe to push petrol though the drllings and the jets. Put it back and it runs beautifully. Took an hour or so.

Reinforce the shit out of the floor under the driver's seat! Some pipes with a X across them.. then cage it!

You could buy a half-done conversion, they always seem to come up for sale. Even buying a finished one usually leaves you with this... :laff: Sorry Reed ! Such a classic!

OMG!! Leaf spring junkies! Been ruining rides since the days of the Roman cart!

Oh- don't forget to get them the same colour! :laff: The fit is pretty good really. I'm afraid a cat bumped my hand when I was cutting the front guard!

Just go back and take two photos from exactly the same position and photochop it. Those are close, but the angle is slightly different. Stand around a small area and shoot 50 photos of one car, then go and take one of the other. Somewhere you will find a match.

Forget it! Do this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Seriously! Allow $10,000 to get it done properly, then subtract what you can do yourself. Probably the motor will need two or three grand spent on it before you start as they are old motors and well-thrashed by now. The actual fitting is not hard, but all the little modifications and then the wiring, vacuum system, little fittings soak up hundreds of dollars. Don't forget to strip the gearbox and diff and check them too. I'm sure you'll be up for a brake conversion, which means struts and shocks too. When you finally stand back with a beautifully clean and tidy engine bay with a smooth-running motor that does everything like factory-built, you can count the change! Sadly most motor conversions never get to that stage.

Ah well... now you know what that sound is! So, another 250,000km coming up!