altezzaclub

Ah... gold!

Here- this will help. He wrote a Masters thesis on brake cooling. http://researchbank.rmit.edu.au/eserv/rmit:6207/Stephens.pdf I assume you are going to mount the air intake tube as close to the centre of the backing plate as possible, as you need to get the air right into the middle of the disc so it flows outwards through the vents.

I assume you just swap the nose of the driveshaft over. Fit a new UJ while you're there. I had to do that to turn my auto driveshaft into a manual one.

Forget towing it! You would need to stay overnight several times going up and down, plus the hassle and the likelyhood of writing yourself off under a truck if you haven't towed before. Just pay the money to have a car-trucking firm deliver it. Have you had any of the Tassie boys take a look at it for just how mobile it is??

You're right, you should see a jet of fuel squirting down the carb throat. Just pull the pump jet apart and check the diaphram and drillings etc until you find out why. It could be your problem, but it only makles a difference for about 1second , as you actually push the throttle down, and after that its up to the main jet. So if your motor dies for longer than that its probably not the pump jet causing it. Still, easy enough to fix and see....

So you have replaced the brake drums & shoes, and the pads & rotors... Those are all the parts that rub together under braking. How about part of the body or suspension that moves when you get nose-dive under heavy brake? Does something move so it can rub on a rotating part?? A stone in behind the rotor?? No, you would've seen anything like that when you changed it all. Handbrake cable? I assume the tail lifts as the nose dives.

One reason would be cold air going in is denser. That's why cars run better on cold nights. A motor is designed to run between about 75deg and 90deg. That suits the metals and the lubrication, so the system is designed to get up to those temperatures as soon as possible then level off and stay there no matter what load you put it under. That's why you need a thermostat and warm air intakes when you start driving, then cold air when the motor is up to temperature.

smiles&lies .....hmmm... You're not Juliar Gillard or Tony Abbot in disguise by any chance??

Lovely! ...but a shitload of work to do that! Back in the late '60s people were building twini-minis with a Mini motor at each end to get the same effect.

Pull the carb apart and clean it. I did it yesterday to my Datsun 1600 that I haven't started in ages. Cranked fine but would only briefly fire up when I poured raw petrol down the carb throat. Took the carb off, found all the jets full of a sludgy black goo. Obviously the petrol residue left as it evaporated. I used a syringe to push petrol though the drllings and the jets. Put it back and it runs beautifully. Took an hour or so.

Reinforce the shit out of the floor under the driver's seat! Some pipes with a X across them.. then cage it!

You could buy a half-done conversion, they always seem to come up for sale. Even buying a finished one usually leaves you with this... :laff: Sorry Reed ! Such a classic!

OMG!! Leaf spring junkies! Been ruining rides since the days of the Roman cart!

Oh- don't forget to get them the same colour! :laff: The fit is pretty good really. I'm afraid a cat bumped my hand when I was cutting the front guard!

Just go back and take two photos from exactly the same position and photochop it. Those are close, but the angle is slightly different. Stand around a small area and shoot 50 photos of one car, then go and take one of the other. Somewhere you will find a match.

Forget it! Do this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Seriously! Allow $10,000 to get it done properly, then subtract what you can do yourself. Probably the motor will need two or three grand spent on it before you start as they are old motors and well-thrashed by now. The actual fitting is not hard, but all the little modifications and then the wiring, vacuum system, little fittings soak up hundreds of dollars. Don't forget to strip the gearbox and diff and check them too. I'm sure you'll be up for a brake conversion, which means struts and shocks too. When you finally stand back with a beautifully clean and tidy engine bay with a smooth-running motor that does everything like factory-built, you can count the change! Sadly most motor conversions never get to that stage.

Ah well... now you know what that sound is! So, another 250,000km coming up!

Yeah, but you were lucky to survive those days... we were all kiled in our millions by the unsafe things we did, and its only the Govt regulations that are saving us now! I'm amazed they don't just ban any car without the latest airbags/crush zones/electronic traction control... we make everyone else on the road unsafe! It much better we buy some brand-new 450bhp V8 Holden...

Lol! I hope that means "cleaned out mixture screws" !! So, problem sorted- One of the emission control hoses must have been leaking and making it work incorrectly.

What sort of igntion is it running? Points still? Check points gap and timing if it is. Then hunt through the water system. Ah- and read the code on the diff tag, or jack a wheel up and count the turns to get the diff ratio. Check the VIN plate to see if its on there too. 3000rpm at 100kph is probably a 4.1, might be a 4.3 on a 5speed too.

$250-$350. Usually only the 4-1 are new, its harder to fnd 4-2-1. Your local exhaust shop should be able to get them.

That does look a worry- Car looks gorgeous though! Have you got a Celica wiring diagram??

lol! Still, you've had one great success and hopefully solved the cooling permanently. Easier to just buy a diff from a wrecker?

The usual alphabet soup the bureucrats speak.. "Codes of practice" "regulations" "standards" "guideline documents" RMS TNSW VSCC... He couldn't give a shit about us modifying our cars, he wants lots of paperwork and compliance costs to make sure we do what they tell us to and to make it as expensive as possible to discourage anyone doing anything. That's the way Govt's work. If you want to do anything not in that list above, you will have to pay a fortune to some authorised, certificated, insured, Govt approverd engineer. On the scale of "no Govt oversight" being 1 and "total ban on any changes from factory" being 10, he is pushing the bar towards 10. ..and they are making it OPTIONAL for the tester to try your brakes at 160kph. They're not admitting that is the most stupid speed test any bureaucrat ever thought up, seeing the speed limit is 100kph, but you may or may not get your car tested at that speed. I'd say nearly all our cars are illegal...