altezzaclub

lol! You'll get stopped and searched every night for the next month! Glad to hear you got it back.

Ah- you probably flooded it! Choke out, crank motor, push throttle is how I do it... maybe 1/3 the way down. But it does depend on individual cars and their state of tune. When the points wear closed over time (as the rubbing block wears away) the timing also gets retarded, and that makes it harder to start. So a car that needs a tuneup seems much much better to the owner after its done. Suddenly it is starting eagerly and leaps off the line...

Good to hear it worked for you!

Give it a tune to start with- Check tappet gaps. Drive it and push the clutch in while turning it off and stop, so you get to see the plugs as they were under load. Check plug gaps & colour. Check compressions while the plugs are out. Check points gap and timing (with a timing light,) and make sure the timing advances as you rev it. Check the idle mixture, and make sure turning the idle screw has an effect. If it doesn't do anything you have a carb problem. Make sure the choke is coming right off, as Oldie mentioned. Once you know they are working as they should, its probably fastest to dyno it to find if it is coil or leads or plug or carb that is breaking down under load. That will pretty well cover the list from me-n-d-boy above.

Can you loosen the u-bolts under the axle, loosen the spring shackles ane have the diff suspended with the chassis on axle stands?? Give the diff a kick from each side then do it up again and see if it has relaxed back into the proper shape.

Find a wiring diagram for the KE30 on google images or similar and trace it on there. Does the fuse blow when you turn the ignition on before you start it? or as you start it? or later on when driving? Take the wires off the alternator or take the fan belt off and see if the fuse blows when you run it for a minute.. Strip the alternator & check diodes, windings and brushes, that will be causing it not to charge. I don't know if it is also blowing the fuse, but that 'engine' fuse might be the 'altenator' fuse on my diagram.

...because I didn't know they existed! Yes, I can see that would be neater and easier. I assume it has the capability to be setup the same- What are they worth Justin?

Ask a gearbox shop- I didn't think they did. Aren't they a welded-up unit? Change to manual and get rid of 50kg in weight! Ah- Google knows all! They're welded up and have to be cut in half, then aligned exactly and rewelded at the end of the service. Definately not worth doing. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/torque-converter-rebuilding-35445.html Use your old one, and if it still jerks get one from a wrecker. It sounds like bands to me, as Clubby said.

Threw it away, like everyone does! I don't know if they were the same, they probably were, but that was off a 4K obviously. I can't see Toyota spending money on changing something like that between models.

Yes, the 'stock H4 connector' is the original plug on the passenger's side that goes onto the headlight bulb. Yes. So now the dipswitch and all the original wiring is just acting as a control for the two relays and hence not carrying much current or being responsible for the brightness of the headlights. When you switch the headlights on it immediately activates the 4pole relay, which turns on the low beam lights. The bulbs earth through the 5pole relay, both filaments, and when you flick the dipswitch the 5pole relay is switched over, which changes from earthing the dip filament to earthing the fullbeam filament. Here's another view of it. The high beam indicator lasted a week, but the blue bulb was extremely dim and eventually the IN5404 diode melted in a spectacular column of smoke! Keep asking questions, the answers help everyone else.

Yes, and it was easy to swap them around once it was all wired up anyway. The new circuit works the opposite way to the stock one that earths back through the switch. I had a circuit to make the blue light work, but the diode was too small and fried itself, and I've never worried about doing it again.

Nice idea Jono, especially if they had the female triple plug for the back of the bulbs. Once you've done one its easy. HIDs cost too much Evan. I'm broke!

Well, sadly KE70.com got hacked, so it will be up when they get it sorted. Irokin was nice enough to send me the article, and I've put it up here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58879-how-to-convert-an-auto-to-a-manual-ke70/page__pid__590801#entry590801

With the clutch on (New clutch kit.. $75!! Well worth it!) then its time to move back inside. I took a bit of cardboard to the donor car, held it over the gearlever hole with its base against the seat crossmember, and cut around the gearlever hole. Then I drew around the cardboard in the auto car. I figured the seat crossmember would be in the same place in both cars, although the holes and the screw mounts are all different. A bit of hacksaw and file work gave me the hole... I remembered I had an Abra file blade later! (they cut in any direction) Some light alloy lying around gave me the bit to cover the hole that was left. A couple of screws and sealed with wallboard cement.. The wiring for the reverse lights is quite different. The manual box has a plug on the front, the auto car has it by the gearlever. I spliced the two together and bridged the "start only in park" wires. On the auto gearlever, the red pair are the reverse lights and the black pair are the "park" lock. The other pair are for the light inside the auto lever at night. ..use them for your incar floros.. They all tucked away quite nicely. Then you will need a clutch cable fitting off the donor car. I drilled the spotwelds out, painted it black and riveted it onto the blue car firewall, sealed with builders adhesive again! With the hole sorted the box went in quite easily, proving my decades of looking at a clutch and centralising the plate by eye still works! The cable was easily hooked up and the manual speedo fitted. We tried the 3.9 manual diff to replace the 4.3auto, but it whined under power at 80kph- shame that, part of manuals being well-thrashed. The manual driveshaft has the nose that fits the manual box, but the UJs were worn, so its off having the front yoke transferred to the auto driveshaft today. Test day tomorrow I hope!! YES! It lives! Driveshaft in and all systems go! Feels much quicker and more direct than the auto. Third gear synchros are dodgy, but that can be driven around easily. 10minute test drive and nothing fell off and no oil leaks... :rolls:

oops- double posted it!

With the pedal box out you can see the differences- Now the gearbox-The gearlever is simple, the only interior work, then start draining the box. I disconnected the hoses at the radiator and drained them, then discovered the cheaparses at Toyota Australia used a box with no drain plug. (My Jap manual says there should be one!) Anyway, a 4" nail hammers through the rear edge of the g'box sump quite easily and the hole is easily plugged the next day. Then the oil cooler hoses were removed, the inlet vacuum tube removed and the bell housing tackled. Remove the dipstick and loosen the bolts around the engine. Drop the driveshaft, speedo cable and g'box crossmember, then carefully work the g'box backwards. As you move the bell-housing more oil comes out of the gap as the box has oil in the torque converter. It will also drain out of the hole where the hoses went in. There is no room at all against the tunnel, and you can see why here- With the box out you can undo the three bolts holding the torque converter onto the flex plate... if you can find a spanner to fit! Fking things are 15.3mm, some stupid American/Imperial size. Work through the hole in the engine plate cover, which I found once I had it off!! Then the flex plate comes off the crank. I had the stock flywheel skimmed down from 8kg to 6kg, seeing as I had it in my hand. You will need a $7 spigot bearing next, to be fitted before the flywheel goes on.

When I spent 6 months looking for a KE70 to teach my daughter how to drive, I found that all the nice ones were autos owned by older people, and all the manuals were well-thrashed by young guys. For this reason I think this conversion will become more common. I bought a nice auto and almost a year later, a complete manual donor car. This gave me the pedal box, flywheel, cable fitting and diff for $450, as well as the rest of the car including central locking and a dash with a rev counter in. Now, before you begin, clean the garage floor and paint it! There is nothing leaks oil like an auto! The lay out all your tools and disconnect the battery. You could take off the steering wheel for convenience but I didn't. The pedal box change is the most time-consuming, so start by taking out the driver's seat and then the screws in the dashboard around the instruments. The dash panel jams in the top left-hand corner and takes a bit of fiddling to get it out without damage. Then the four screws holding in the instruments, and once loose, reach behind to disconnect the three wiring plugs and the speedo. You took the seat out so you can lie under the dashboard and remove the plastic column cover, and the column support nuts. This will drop the steering column, so tie it up with a bit of wire. The column plugs come off also. On the firewall up under the dash there are 4 bolts, the lower right one is here- To get the top right one you have to undo the demister tube and that one wiring clip, then force the plastic tube up a bit. The horizontal arrow shows the lower left bolt. This is the nearest I could get to photographing them, they are well-hidden. There is one vertical bolt holding the pedalbox on, and you can see the booster where I removed those 4 nuts. Disconnect the brake pedal rod & wires, remove the accelerator kickdown, then start on the front of the dashboard. I took out the little alloy panel on the RHS carrying the "door open" light, and the small centre bridge. "A" and "B" are the steering column nuts. Then the whole pedal box pulls towards the steering wheel and rotates clockwise to drop out below the dash. Fitting the manual one is the reverse, but take the brake pedal off first to be able to get the pedalbox in. Get all the bolts and nuts on the pedalbox before tightening them up. Surprisingly enough it all went back together, looked good and worked!

The three headlight wires that run across the car I tied into the front top rail, drilling one hole in the middle. Then the painful job- Under the car putting the ring-clip on the alternator, the headlight power for the 4pole relay. Too close to get in focus! The rest was simple, plugging wires in following the diagram I cut an ice-cream container up for plastic strip insulators as some terminals were quite close to one another. Headlights got one- and the relays another, as they are quite small physically. I just used two male spade to get into the original headlight socket, but there are special plastic moulding with male ends, like a lightbulb, for this. Just before I connected it all (two weeks after first starting) I ran the camera again. Cleaned the headlight first and set it up. Stock setup- Low beam 7.1 full beam 8.0 Relay setup Low beam 10 full beam 11.0 That is more than two F-stops gain, so the light output has at least doubled. Looks spectacular on the road now, you can see reflective markers a Km away or so, and see the road clearly 400-500M away.

The headlight power comes from the alternator direct to the 4pole relay at the top, then into the two bulbs, then through the 5pole relay to eath. The dashboard switch turns on the 4pole relay, and the 5pole relay switches low beam to high beam. The 6mm wire is too hard to work with, and massive overkill really, so if I did it again I'd get 4mm. As I only had soldering gear and no wire crimper I soldered everything, so first job was to trim off the plastic ends. Then I cut the wires to length and soldered on the terminals. This is where joining two wires at one terminal was difficult. Only one relay had a mounting bracket, so I made one out of alloy sheet and bolted them both to the engine bay behind the battery. This meant taking the plastic out of the mudguard, so I sprayed a bit of rustkill everywhere while I was under there. They mounted here- One slides on and the non-mounted one got a garden tie! The earth wires were the first on.

OK, the KE70 has pathetic headlights, even at 60kph! So the first thing I tried was replacing ONE bulb with a 100/90watt halogen. This was a pain as the three 'wings' were not quite in the same place so I had to cut one off and re-rivet it back on a few mm around the edge. Then I found the difference in brightness to be very small! A bit of research found that the power goes straight to the bulbs, then earths back up the steering column and through the switch. Never a good idea, my old Datsuns were the same and we always re-routed those! So I decided to run relays on the lights and just go alternator-relay-bulb-earth. First I tested the idea- I set up the wife's digital SLR camera on the tripod, pointed it at one headlight beam on the garage door and read the F-stop, 5.6. Then I put a wire from the battery to the bulb and straight to earth and read it again, this time 7.1. That one F-stop is double the light getting in! Next was off to the spares shop to buy- Bosch 4pole relay $12 Narva 5pole relay $10 6M of 6mmwire (too big!) $11 3 30amp fuse holders $6 2 30amp fuses and three 15amps $1.50 (spare of each!) Big spade and ring terminals $5 ...and a few extra bits that you will find in the reply I made further down!! This circuit doesn't have the blue 'highbeam' light working, so I added that later! The wiring diagram I 'borrowed' from a 4WD club article and modified for the KE.

So.. when you say 'electric dizzy', is that a transistorised (electronic) one without points? You're right, the reisistor will normally reduce the voltage to the coil, and the coil is designed to run on that then start on 'over-voltage'. I took my power for the electronic unit from the +ve side of the resistor, which cut it out of the circuit.

For timing without a dwell meter or a timing light- Assuming you have set the points gap.... Pull the spark plugs out to start with, put a 19mm on the crank pulley nut and turn it over to get the PULLEY mark lined up with the MOTOR 10deg mark. With the dizzy cap off, loosen the dizzy clamp bolt so you can just turn it a few mm. Turn the ignition on to get dash lights, then turn the dizzy clockwise a few mm. That should close the ponts. Turn the dizzy anti-clockwise a few mm and it will open the points and will spark. You should hear the 'crack' as the coil discharges. Do it a couple of times and stop just as it happens, then tighten the dizzy clamp bolt. Remember to take the 19mm spanner off! If it pinks under load, turn the dizzy clockwise a couple of mm. 10 to 12deg advance should be fine, but the Good Book says 8deg. Dwell is 46deg, which is another way of measuring the points gap, and the gap with feeler gauges is 0.45mm or 18thou If not, go buy a timing light, it will last you all your life! They just pick up the spark pulse from the number one lead and flash, so you should see the pulley mark at 8deg as in the photo.

LoL! Perfect choice of model by Supercheap! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9wZvcr3v2c&feature=related

LoL !!!! I don't believe it!! Supercheap have put up a special "how to change points on a 4K motor" just for you!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9wZvcr3v2c&feature=related

just Google it Jara, there will be videos on Youtube about basic tuning stuff like that. The internet is just brilliant for that sort of learning. Still, there should be someone around Richmond who can help.