altezzaclub

Dave's got it, follow that recipe. What you do first depends on exactly how bad the components are in your car. Have the shocks tested on a machine and just see. If they haven't been done for years then new shocks and bushes will make a big difference.

...after everything else is done. You'd be better buying Corona front LCAs or a Celica rear sway bar.

In theory no, but it will feel like it does from the extra 200cc of torque. I'd expect the power curve to be the same shape but moved higher all over.

True- if you want to try it..... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/page__pid__511594#entry511594

Evan its the Crow 606 that Slo-030 has, 270deg advertised, 224 at 50thou (opens fast) and 0.397 lift. Its on twin inch & 1/4 SUs, 9.7 to 1 compression & 2" extractors into inch & 3/4 exhaust. The SU carbs might be prone to lumpy idle as the floating pistons will jump up and down with the engine tilting. I can see a pothole in a smooth road on the fuel mixture display as the floats drop then rise.

The Girl's KE70 runs great with Crow's 270deg 0.4lift grind. Grumpy idle but pulls straight off from low down, and its smooth with no hesitation anywhere. Up around the 280deg gives s poor bottom end doesn't it?

Clean the underbody spray off & go see a general engineer/welder. That sort of work doesn't need a panelbeater. You can cut a couple of circles say 25mm diam in the panel to give it extra weld attachment area. I've found a great local guy who charged me $20 to make a brass bush for my skilsaw. Most engineers wouldn't talk to you for that little.

Whaaat...! You know the owners are going to strip the interior, paint it matt black, dig out the sound-proofing, fit a half-cage, a dildo gear stick, a giant sub & a racing seat.... well, maybe in 30years. :laff:

No need to, stick to the usual 10deg or so, whatever suit the fuel you use. The weights will give you a mechanical advance out to 36deg. The vac advance is to give more milli-seconds of burn time when you are cruising on light throttle or going downhill with your foot off completely. At those times there is very little fuel going into the same size cylinder as usual, but at high revs the flame front doesn't move fast enough to burn it cleanly. So their anti-pollurtion solution was to start the flame earlier & help it burn the lean mix better. Go down a hill at 100kph, say 3000rpm, and you have the weights giving you 30+degrees and on top of that the vac gives you another 10. If you went uphill with that advance it would pink, so as soon as you boot it the vac collapses and the advance goes back to where it should be. Simple but clever. I don't know what your two ports do on the dizzy, but mine are both the same. Some cars have a vac advance on one side and a vac retard on the other, Fords or something I read of. Get it all running with a timing light on and hook each one up to vac in turn and see what they do, or you can probably just suck on a tube and watch it if the spring isn't too strong. If they both advance & you hook both up together it should advance a fraction faster and further, you just have a bigger diaphram area under vac. I just use the outer one. I retained the vac advance and the charcoal canister on the 4K. I had to start researchng vac and advance once I converted to electronic ignition and needed to re-curve the advance. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

FIRST.... fit relays that take the earthing away from the switch! One of the first thigs we did and it made a MASSIVE difference! http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Wrapping will slow the heat transfer for sure. It will still happen when you idle after driving hard, but much much less than no wrap. (I've got it on the Altezza and the KE70) If the brake fluid actiually boils you will have no clutch until the bubbles collapse so the higher the boiling point the better. I don't know how fast water contamination lowers the boiling point, but the manufacturers migh have those figures. I'd do both.

Basically 'yes' to the first two, it is no problem using a T-piece in the brake booster line, or tapping into the manifold in one place. I ran mine on the brake line OK. However I think you would need to know what the dizzy is designed to have, manifold vac or ported vac, as at idle the manifold vac is at maximum and will give you maximum vacuum advance, while the ported vac is at zero and will give you no advance at all. If it is designed for ported vac (zero extra advance at idle) when you set it at 10deg with no vac line on, and then you put manifold vac on, it will give you 20deg advance at idle, an extra 10deg on the 10 you set it to with no vac line. So you set it back to 10deg again. Now you've just taken 10deg off the maximum it can give you, as the dizzy will only go to 36deg or so before the weights hit the stops, so you will only have 26deg max advance at high speed full throttle..

Do they match anywhere along their length? Tapered?? What did a driveshaft shop say??

OK, a few guys have been asking about basic mods and costs, so this is what I paid- Second-hand SU carbs and manifold, and extractors $600. Extractors were almost new, and you could get a down-draught Weber much much cheaper. Airbox made $100. Mod your stock aircleaner or one slightly larger to fit your Weber. Linkages, odd gaskets, ram tubes, needles, vacuum stuff, screws and bolts, twin choke cables, air filter, fuel pressure regulator, $450 Head skimmed, valves cut $165 Exhaust wrap, new exhaust system $400 Cam & followers ground via mail $195 Bearings, gasket set, crank cleaned $285 Tuning $145 (not impressed, did all the rest myself!) So you can see the small things add up, over $400, but if you didn't touch the bottom end you could do it with a Weber downdraught for under $1500.

Half a dozen companies do them- I wanted a torquey cam & stock valve springs (0.4" lift) so 270deg was fine, & I ended up going with the Crow grind as they open faster ( The 50thou lift is slightly higher). They all cut much wilder cams than these.

Changes the timing of the valves opening and how far they open to give more power higher up the rev range. 5Ksev- I paid $170 for a cam grind AND the lifter re-grinding at Crow, so you are paying a lot. Also, decide if you're using hydraulics or solids before you get a cam grind as they are different grinds. Whichever you get you should get the lifters reground to wear in with the new cam profile.

Well done! Nice engineering ideas and a good article. Do those diffs whine like my R31 Pinara does?? The wrecker wouldn't sell me one as he said all Pintaras whine...

Fit a header tank to it- when I was at Uni I worked for an engineering shop part-time, and we built a beach buggy from galv pipe. The boss sketched it out on the concrete fllor in chalk & we had to build it.. :laff: We had overheating problems crawling up sand dunes so he made a closed aluminium tube 150mm diam that sat across the motor and the water went from the head, to the tank, then to the radiator. The extra 4litres gave all the water time to cool before it went through the motor again.

Give it a go, then have the head shop check your answer. Otherwise you are at the mercy of some local engineer forever. What do you plan to run the car on?? 98octane all the time? and what do you want to do with it?? road car? Occasional hill-climb or track day? As many track days as you can?? That will determine the cam you use, and the cam determines what compression you can run. If you want to race it enthusiastically, do what ae82 said as dynamic compression is important for fat cams.

You measure the volume of the combustion chamber with a sheet of plastic over it and a burette or pipette full of turps. The 4K is about 31cc. Then you add up the combustion chamber+head gasket(5cc or so)+piston dish volume+cylinder volume. That is your total volume when the inlet valve is open. Under compression the volume is that minus the cylinder volume, and the compression ratio is the ratio of the two. You need a target compression ratio you want, say 10:1, and then measure the area of the combustion chamber with a piece of graph paper. That will let you work out how much to shave off to get the CR you want. Pictures here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

When you have the box out, turn the input shaft while someone holds the driveshaft and see if Evan is correct. I wouldn't be surprised if he is... no teeth stripped, but a shaft snapped clean in half. Ah no- You have the problem there if they didn't flatten out. A new plate can't be much, the whole kit is only $70, clutch plate, pressure plate and release brg.

Usea cloth to put a good layer of wax on, just like waxing a car, then polish it off for a shiny slippery surface. Then a couple of coats of PVA with a brush. It will pull back a little due to the wax, but another coat should cover it. It forms a really thin skin when dry.

Get the KE70, for exactly the reasons you said! You will at least be mobile & you can spend a year evaluating what's around and what is worth restoring. You will find some great and unusual Jap models that never made it to Aussie.

KE70 conversion-

This one Evan?