altezzaclub

All the Datsun 1600 saloons were IRS, a very similar setup to the BMWs. They don't keep camber at all and dance down a rally road. However they do have better traction than a beam rear end. The 180B replacements came out with IRS and beam rear ends. Are you sure you wouldn't settle for a 5-link, like the KE70. .. or if you could find an old Alfa Gulia at the wreckers, they were pretty skinny.

Do you think it can be assembled like that Slo? or will the raised face of the clutch plate not sit against the flywheel at all?? I've never tried it to see.

Don't forget to put a touch of grease on the rubbing block. If it gets dry it wears very quickly and the points close up.

When?? related to pushing the clutch down?? accelerating?? Coasting??

lol !! :laff: Education continues!

Ah, OK that is different. Dead right, and that would push exhaust gases up the intake as the piston covered that last 45deg. So, Bluetack a circular protractor onto the crank pulley and watch the valves.

Ouch! Ouch! Ouch! Arrgh! Ouch!.... Yup, that one works! :laff:

4wheel steering? I had a turbo'd one and that made it very nimble. A great luxury sports saloon in its day.

Don't forget a wheel alignment before you get back into it!

I don't think so. What is a tooth worth in degrees?? You should have the inlet closing 65deg after BDC shouldn't you, and it remains closed as the piston compresses to TDC and fires, then the exhaust opens 65deg after TDC. So there's not much chance of flames shooting back up the carb if its a tooth out. What about tappet gap?? Does it read the same as you set it if you check it a day later? If there was a problem in there it might hold the inlet valves open to let it backfire. Not very likely.... Head gasket?? Flashing between two cylinders is the most likely thing I can think of. Try a leakdown test- Hook a compressor up to a compression gauge fitting and pressurise one cylinder at a time. We did one on my Altezza a few weeks back and it showed leaking exhaust valves straight away.

Well, if you have spark then fuel is the next suspect. Can you run an injector into a can and see if you get fuel through?

Float level being too high would make fuel flow out the jets without any suction demand. A hair at the needle & seat face may hold the needle open sometimes and not others, so it intermittently floods.

1- Have you had the car running fine before, and this problem developed- 2- or have you had this problem since you assembled the motor?? 3- Does it backfire up the carb?? That would take a fire in the inlet manifold, which means an inlet valve leaking or being held open by the rocker. or opening into a burning cylinder. 4- .or is it just not firing a cylinder every now and then? So the spark isn't getting to the cylinder or the mixture is too lean to ignite??

Lets us know what your research comes up with. Zinc would be the first start, aluminium won't work, and you will know a lot about electrode potentials by the time you have finished.

Sort the thermostat and if that is fine, the radiator is fine, (fins all good and not blocked) then look at the water pump.- any chance the pump's vanes are corroded away?? Put an ohm-meter over the sensor at cold and at hot temps and check the resistance against the stock figures. Then get a thermometer & check that the gauge is reading correctly.

OK, its often really hard to tell the difference between too much fuel and too little. So a bit of shit comes along the fuel line and sits in the tiny gap between the needle & the seat, stopping the fuel from being shut off and over-filling the bowl. It runs really rich, coughs & splutters and only goes when the revs get up. Then maybe it gets past the needle and into the bowl, and gets sucked into a jet, say the idle jet, seeing its the smallest, and it half-blocks that. Then the car is too lean, and coughs & splutters and hates to go. Same effect as an air leak through a loose bolt. If the choke improves it by making it richer, then its too lean. So it would have that effect cruising along at 50 or 60kph. If the choke improves it by raising the idle speed, on half-choke, it could be rich or lean, but pulling the choke out that little bit more to close the flap over and it will die if its already too rich. Not much help, but this problem is one where you need to be there, not on the net...

Is it the factory dizzy for that motor?? Have you checked the weights in the bottom of the dizzy? Maybe they are gummed up and not advancing it. You could mark the crank pulley with white ink out to 40deg and then make a timing graph of advance V revs every 500rpm up to 3500. That will give you the advance curve you have and there should be a factory one on the net somewhere. The electronic dizzy I bought for the 4K was as flat as a pancake, it had an advance curve for a van or a forkhoist... Here's how I sorted it- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__st__45

Take the top off the carby & take the float needle out. Give it a quick crank over to wash petrol through & clean out any rubbish that could hold the needle open and flood the carb. If there is dirt in the bottom of the bowl clean it out and if you're keen strip the carb and blow out the drillings and the jets. ..and swing a spanner on the manifold nuts/bolts as Evan suggested, just in case one worked loose. When it runs badly, how does pulling out the choke change it?? An intermittent problem like this is the hardest to solve. Dad had a leaf in the fuel tank that occasionally got sucked over the outlet and the car would die. The moment the motor stopped it floated away and the motor would restart and run fine... Took ages to solve!

Not if there is free play at the fork. That freeplay is a measure of the gap between the pressure plate the release brg- only needs to be 2mm. I'll get a photo-.

I had one taken out in Auckland & I was stunned by how well he did it. He came to me and spent 3/4hr, charged me $90, brilliant work, not a sign of it left. It was a bad carpark dent in a door, and he went in through the electric window wiring hole with a range of aluminium rods with different ends, & rolled it out slowly. however- is correct and it will be hard to move.

It should be just a bolt-on. Don't forget to buy a $7 spigot bearing for the back of the crankshaft. Get the flywheel taken down to 6Kg, that's pretty easy, and a complete new clutch kit cost me $80 odd. Here's how I did it- http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1493&hl=

Consider your engineering options with coil-overs and sleeves. Find out if you need to have adjustable-height suspension engineered, then what it will cost to heve that done. Nearly everyone buys flash coilovers to get the adjustable height, then sets them and never moves them. The option is a shorter spring on the XT Corona or AE86 strut. The adjustable camber at the top is a great option to chase too.

err... Google images- probably never see it again!

OK, you can buy the whole strut with adjustable height and adjustable camber tops, or you can buy the sleeve that you weld onto the outside of the strut to give you adjustable ride height & get the camber tops separately. This is what they look like-

Those 'spindles' are stub axles, although really you are talking about the whole hub. The Ebay ones are for front-wheel-drive cars, which have hubs quite different to RWD, and are not interchangeable as far as I know.