altezzaclub

Not offhand I'm afraid. Stick a wanted post up and see if anyone has seen one for sale.

Usually 4th in an old manual is 1:1, as that give the most efficient power transmission. Then they put overdrive 5th gears on them, and now none of the gears are liable to be 1:1. You should change diff ratio, which will lift up all gears. You won't notice the higher low gear unless you tow a boat...

Ask one- Would you really believe a quote you got over the internet from someone who has never seen the job and won't be doing it.... If you don't have a mate who is a panelbeater you can expect to pay around the $500 mark. That said, I had 3/4 of a car sprayed for $800, so it depends on your bargaining skill & how much of the work you do yourself.

Anywhere from 10deg to 18 has worked, depending on the advance curve. 10-12 seems best, but we are 2500ft up and can run more advance than sea level. That's on 95octane with a home-developed advance curve.

Rob83ke70 has a shell in his backyard here in Orange that he will probably 'sell' for beers. It was a complete car we have been swiping bits off for a while now. I'll tell him to look at this post.

4AGE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vu8ahJEsnpw

Aww.. shame. I suppose it was a really slow-speed roll and you could sit there thinking "Oh no! Don't go over.. don't go right over.." :laff: So, its a real khanacar now, time for a Porta-power to push the pillar up again and a bit of bog.

$1500 will go nowhere if you want to do it properly- any motor you get will need a strip down and a freshen up, probably a hone, new rings, maybe bearings, gasket set... Port head, skim head, cut valves and seats, new timing chain & tensioners, grind cam & followers, extractors, new exhaust... That's $2000 gone already...

Side-draught carbs will do better if you really are after every bit of cheapish power. A single DCOE or a pair of them, twin SUs, Dellortos... Don't forget to lighten the flywheel and get the whole thing balanced. How big in bore do you want to go? You could hunt down some piston that will make it 1450cc or anything out to the 5K 1500cc. The head you will need to measure, both chamber volumes and area, to calculate how much to skim off to get your desired compression. Same as I did, but you're after more grunt I think. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

..and it may be difficult to curve. Actually, I would assume it won't be legal as manufacturers make the windscreen a stressed member of the shell. Once you break it out the roof and pillars get very floppy. We had a polycarb rear window and fixed the roof to the cage to hold it in place.

Lol!! Don't leave it connected, it will drain the battery... So, you've lost the feed from the key, it sholdn't be too hard to trace.

Todays SMH- http://smh.drive.com.au/motor-news/land-of-the-rising-fun-20111201-1o8x7.html

Wreckers... several here in Orange, dunno where you are...

take the fan belt off & start it.... just in case its a dry bearing in the alty or water pump.

..and fit a 10mm aluminium plate sump guard, radiator crossmember back to the main crossmember to protect the sump.

Don't bog it- I'd drill the spotwelds out and peel it off with a chisel, then replace it with a good one from a wrecker that you've done the same with. You can drill a few extra holes in the replacement and hit all the holes with your welder.

As far as I know the motor is straight out of the Subaru factory, so Subby do the mechanicas and Toyota do the body. So... will it turbo like the WRX from the Impreza?

There's your problem. It is permanently shut, so no fuel goes through the idle circuit. Take it out and test it with a 12V wire. I suppose there are still new ones available, although plenty of guys on here must have one lying around

What is the front suspension/crossmember design like from the point of flexing?? When you get stiffer suspension you might do well to get underbody braces to hold it all in place.

I grabbed them from one of the KE70s at the wreckers last month for another Rollaclub member. They had cars with retractable and non-retractable there, and I didn't notice any difference in the body. Take a hunt around your local wrecker.

Does it have or did it have the fuel cut-off solenoid on the idle circuit? Sounds like it doesn't have the idle circuit working. Timing is OK??

Basically its slightly longer than a KE70, lower of course, MUCH wider and weighs 250kg more! Still, 146KW is only 10 less than an Altezza, so much quicker than a KE70, about the same as the Altezza, but is it slower than a proper AE86??

Shamelessly lifted from Altezzaclub- photos & the rest is here- http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclub/index.php?showtopic=12403&hl=

Yes, think of how the castor control arms will flex and wave about when you're giving it a hard time if you have a rusted, twisting chassis crossmember. (also any trees or power poles might not stop coming through the engine bay as quickly as they should!)

That's on a stock carb I assume... I wouldn't worry about it being higher than normal, maybe the weather was a low rpessure that day! Its almost twice what I saw when I was playing with a vac gauge on the SUs. What is the mixture like? The only downside to high vac that I can think of would be if it sucked too much fuel through at idle. Grab a nylon stocking/pantihose and pull off the top rad hose. Put it over the end of the radiator intake and fix the hose back on. Check it in a few days. My block was full of pieces of rust scale. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/