altezzaclub

If you try and make it 100mm of the ground then probably the springs will not be long enough to stay in their cups at full droop. So if the suspension goes right down over a hole the spring can fall sideways. You would need to check that with any springs you put in there as "non-captive" springs are also illegal. That's why I said- So you can remove Toyota's engineering for 4adults, one kid and all their luggage and run their springs somewhat lower. Ours looks the normal height for a modern car, its just that the KE70s sat very high from the factory. Legality is another area altogether, we've never been stopped, but then again we've never been caught doing silly things like drifting. It becomes just another fine to stick on top of whatever they stopped you for. Keep trawling though the build threads and you will find other things that you can fit from the wreckers. An electronic dizzy would be a good find, or bigger brakes.

Well, you're in the best position to do the body up- materials you can get cheaply and your time is free, so you can make a nice-looking car out of it. That will please some young person who buys it and drives it around proudly. On top of that it keeps people guessing what the hell it is when you park it at the movies, but its never going to repay the time you put into it. You'd need to do up an old MGA or AE86 if you want to pay your wages.

No, but there ae fusible links coming off the starter motor and heading nto the general wiring. They are just coloured bits of wire that melt easily, and the power to the car goes Battery-Starter-Fusible links-Main power circuits. One of mine had been degraded by the exhaust manifold so I pulled them out, cleaned them up & resoldered one. They are the 3 curvy shapes by the letter "C" in this diagram, although I remember them as comng off the battery +ve at the starter itself.

So... We needn't worry about the mighy 4K blowing one apart! Particularly if we're not racing them, or carving stupid amounts off. A lightened flywheel is one of the most effective per buck at quicker acceleration, but you will stall the car a few times until you're used to it. It drops revs faster when you let the clutch out.

Ah- OK, I'm used to them dying in the morning on a cold start.

The 5K has hydraulic lifters and a block designed for 80mm pistons, and are harder to find, they're pluses and minuses. If you have the 4K you are just modding what you have. I'm always wondering about a Mazda MX5 setup, a 1600 or 1800 designed for RWD...

Hang on... Are you saying it starts fine first thing in the morning, but won't start after driving it for 10minutes?? That doesn't sound like a dud battery, as starting first thing in the morning is much harder than starting afterwards during the day. Was it just another random starter motor you fitted??

That's why I reckon a couple of Kg is fine, I think mine went from 8 to 6kg. In the end you need some decent steel to make something like that one above. I haven't heard of a 4K one flying apart mind you, usually the big stories involve Skylines or similar... I wonder what filfrederick used in his 4K-16valve at 9600rpm?

Hang it up from the roof & put a drop of engine oil down it every time you walk past. When it drips out the bottom its ready to go back in.

Have you go an engine size in mind?? 1600cc or 2L or 2.2?? How much power before the leaf springs become hopelessly inadequate?? Bore the 4K out to 5K pistons and fit quad carbs off a bike, extractors/exhaust & a cam. Have the whole lot balanced & lightened. That's about the best you can do without changing to overhead cam, and if you're going to do that then 4AGE or 3SGE is best unless you want to go Nissan. They will ll take a lot of work and changes to the whole drivetrain.

Radially you can make it thicker where the pressure plate bolts go in. Its a comparison of a spoked wheel versus a disc wheel really, and you can put your 'spokes' where the stres is greatest. On the 'front' face in the lower photo above you would mill out the metal between the bolt holes down to the clutch plate face, it doesn't do anything. This is nice-

The best way is to mill it off radially, the cheapest is to lathe it off circumferentially. Take a couple of Kg off it, I'm sure you can take off more but at some stage it gets weak. You need enough to support the ring gear and the pressure plate pulling the rim backwards against the center. Here is mine compard to the auto flex-plate it replaced.

I've bought a few good Datsuns over the years by noting down their rego numbers when I saw them, getting the details from the Post Office & writing to the owners, or just chatting to them when they stop. I'd rather buy granny-spec than modded, so the forums aren't much use to me. There's a lack of somewhere to sell a $1000 car on the web, and the big companies are gathering up the small websites and twisting them into their particular system. Our local paper no longer advertises cars for sale online, it directs you to Trading Post, which is a waste of time instantly. Gumtree seems to be the only hope.

One of the SUs has a port on it for vacuum, which I use for vac advance and the charcoal canister. The Su carbs do not pull much idle vacuum compared to 'normal' carbs. I have probably already tried running the vac advance on manifold vac via the brake booster but can't remember what the effect was. You get high vac advance at idle from the manifold, but I can't remember what effect it has as you open the throttle and it retards to get the car moving.

Often numbers stamped on the back. Depends on the grinder. Measure the chamber volume and work out the compression ratio you have first! Ultimately the side draught manifold flows much better than the downdraught.

Just read your figures again- so the stock carb won't quite handle 7000rpm, but the others will easily. Did you get them from here? http://www.mgbmga.com/tech/mgb19.htm Now you can see how guys can overcarb their 4K quite easily! Twin Dellortos would be absolute overkill!

Work it out.. http://www.theformul...showtopic=11007 1500cc is roughly 90cu", and 90*7000/3456=182cfm I'd say maximum you need is 180cfm, I don't think you get anywhere near 100% efficiency. But check my maths! Side draught manifolds should be more efficient than downdraughts. The oxy sensor works when hot so just as the collectors join would do. Mine are in the downpipes, as you saw, great for twin carbs. Use the SUs!! I need someone to bounce ideas off!! :laff:

Sounds good- shine a torch down inside the sill when you have cut the hole out and see what the rest of it is like. They rust worst around the A pillar at the front and around the very rear of it.

Get the specs of what you want and have an exhaust shop do it. We used a smaller diameter but thicker wall than most people use for space reasons.

Find someone who has done it and PM/email them. They might have done it two years ago and hardly come on here anymore, so they won't see this post but they have all the knowledge. To start it, you just pull out the motor and box, clean and tidy the engine bay and suspend the CA18 in there. I made cardboard models of the engine mounts then cut the steel to shape from that. We used sheet steel, about 18#, and crossdrilled the mounts to weld a piece of exhaust tubing in it. Much lighter than most people use, but very stiff & it worked fine.

manifold vac not ported vac Evan? Got that timing light yet 5K?? That will be the fasted way to sort this out.

...and usually the exhaust is not the choke point, so bigger inlet only will make the greatest difference.

The oxy sensor setup would be good if you have the SUs on, then you can reshape your needles to suit the car exactly & do it all yourself. As Philbey said, the Dellorto would make sense as you could have one run on a dyno to get it jetted correctly and leave it at that. Check what it is like getting jets for the Dellorto, ideally a local tuning place with a box full. There's nothing worse than finding it is running rich so you buy a leaner jet set and find its still rich, so you buy another jet set...

Ah- If you're not going to register it then the converson becomes much easier! You can do what you like with the firewall/tunnel for fitting a gearbox and to make everything as accessible as possible. You will need to be able to get the motor in and out easily, as I'm sure it will take many tries to get it right. The one I saw being put into an Altezza fitted well, but the exhaust manifolds were a work of art. He had a series of bent tubes made up that slid inside one another so he could tack them together under the car, then take it all out and weld it.

Lucky man! Des is right, the 5speed makes a big difference. Lighten the flywheel while it is out too. We bought a donor car, took the bits we wanted and sold it on. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/