drewsith

check out my photo album "my ke15" the pic called "stuff going in. ive had mine lowered a ʞ©$ɟ load with the handling feeling better than before by 1000%. but this was not a home job. sometimes you got to pay for stuff that you can't do (in my case the welding mods to the struts). the rear leaf springs were reclamped and refurbed and flipped upside down ( sounds crazy but lots of old racers did this to make them stiffer) with pedders shocks can't remeber the kg rate but could find the invoice later. the transverse leaf was removed completely and the front struts where aftermarket ke70 but cut and the seating ring for the spring was moved this eliminates the horrid feeling under braking other swaps can give, this combined with the noltec struttops bring the camber from the original positive to what feels like heaps of neg camber but looks about neutral to the eye. the struts where done at brad jones engineering alubry. i have a whiteline swaybar to go on too, but till the KW go upthere is no need. check the other pics to see before vs after for ride hight . or just shoot me a msg. happy to help.

starting a rebuild of my 3k i recently purchased. the pistons that came out say +1.0mm on top, after checking with vernier calipers the size is 75.5 mm or 2.972 inch the bore was 75.7mm or 2.980 inch. the engine ran with kawasaki quad carbs from an old z900. finding it very hard to find replacement pistons,rings ect. the block is a blank 3k with no engine number straight from toyota. any tips or ideas where to start would be great!

i run custom modified ke55 struts with koni parts, king springs, noltec strut tops and removed the transverse leaf...........handles like a dream!! and droped the front by about 3-4 inches, road clearance still looks normal but brought the guards down to the rims edge.

ive got a set spare, the orange and white thicker ones,not the slim clear, I'm not using them. the metal surround is dint free, would just need a polish. msg me if your interested.

i had a ea s pac with jem engine bored out rebuild , extractors , mandrel bent 2.75 exhaust , yellaterra racing flywheel , 5 speed, 3.9 multipoint ( up to 4.1) was the best drift beast ive had for a long time !!!!really good fun ! wish i didnt sell her , would make an awesome drift / track only car ,as no one runs them !! ( if only it was a toyota) .

the only bit i think differs between models is this bits length between holes

if you pull the solex ring sticker off they look nice and "under cover " i painted mine matt black

i put the same locks on my 68 , but used the original plastic clip that goes on the end of the long wire part . they fit better than the solex suplied ones , and moved smoother . just take out each doors lock parts and see if there is much differance between them. also the holding clip for the boot lock on mine did not fit , i used the original . try not to snap any taking them off

thanks guys , i havent done any suspension stuff before . ill take pics as i go so others can see .

cheers ! any special tool needed to press in ?or a g clamp ect do ? o and what kind of grease for the joints?

hey!!! any one got tips or hints on changing lower ball joints on a ke15 ......any help would be very decent of you !

i was always taught , if a car in front of you indicates to merge it was against the road rules to speed up to get past them . if their speed was a lot faster it makes it harder , but they should have moved over before the merging lane ,which i assume is why they have signs for both stating merging lane ahead.