altezzaclub

overrated

Excellent, so you can take the head to head gasket seal out of the equation. So it looks like a corrosion problem, either head or block, unless you find some bit of dirt or distortion somewhere when you take it off. Ask the engineers if they pressure tested it or checked it for flat before they skimmed it. maybe the head was fine and it has been a corrosion problem all along.

Philbeys right, and on mine the green hose goes into the water pump on the suction side along with the bottom rad hose. Yours is older. That blanked-off brass fitting above it had a temp controlled vacuum valve fitted, it controlled some of the emissions gear. Where is your other (red) hose connected, because there is no pressure difference to pump water just across the thermostat housing. The pump is sucking water in via the bottom rad hose & the green pipe, then pumping into the motor behind itself, and pushing the water up to the thermostat housing so it can go to the radiator & circulate. Hence the pressure is higher at the red hose than the green hose.

Did you have it skimmed before you put that gasket on? Get it clean, really really clean without scraping up the surface, and put a clean straight metal edge down it like a steel ruler. If you can fit a feeler gauge under it in the middle then it is warped. No it doesn't need sealant, although some people do. It just needs a clean straight head and a clean block top. If the white emulsion is only in the tappet cover then it could just be condensation. Clean it out and just run the car to see what happens. If the white emulsion is right through the oil its a leak of water into the oil somewhere.

Water will come out of both engine-side hoses, for when the engine is running one hose is slightly pressurised and one not. It sounds like you're not getting flow through those pipes, maybe the water pump is not up to much.You can see the red dotted hose is the hot side off the higher pressure path, and the green dotted one is entering the pump on the low pressure side along with the bottom rad hose. Is your setup like that?

Find a wheel alignment place that does race or rally cars as well as general stuff, and tell them the problems you have. You will probably find the train-tracking is just a poor alignment. I have no faith at all in the Mag&Turbo type chain stores for a good alignment, they can only put the computer in the green zone and that's it. Do you have any specs on the cam?

Why did you replace the gasket, and did you get the head skimmed??? BIG questions! How did you clean up the block and head mating surfaces?? I haven't heard of the heads cracking, someone else may have. Somehow it is leaking from the water jackets into the sump, which is a path of low pressure. No oil in the radiator?? That is the high pressure path. Starts OK in the morning, no backfires between the cylinders?? That would be HG burn between the cyls If the head gasket shows no other symptom, the option is block corrosion, a pinhole rusted through from the water jackets into the sump.

OK its not like I thought, its all under pressure. Now, the lines marked in green are manifold vac, so strong vac at idle and diminishing until they are under pressure at boost. That wll be your brake booster and somehow they are using it as the PCV I am sure. The small lines marked with yellow are, I expect, ported vac, so they get closed off when the throttle plate closes. So no vac at idle, vac just off idle when they share the manifold vac, and vac diminishes until they go positive under boost. It just depends exactly where they are drilled into the throttle body, for if they are downstream of the throttle plate but still in the venturi they will have vac depending on airflow, zero at idle and more and more as airflow increases until they go on boost. I don't know what they do for the charcoal canister, you only want the line to suck on it or you will blow the fuel tank up. You'll have to look at a car that had a 3T-GTE in it, I assume they used a one-way flow valve in it.. They must have an interesting line on the dizzy there too, as it will give you vac advance low down then retard under boost. Shame I'm not in Perth, I'd love to take a look. Yo will only sort it when you have it running and put a vac gauge on it.

What seems to be missing? Why won't it fit? Does the 5K have a circular hole cast into the block to take the outer cable?? Have a search to check if the 5K is hydraulic & that people convert the car to hydraulics when they fit the 5K.

..if I'm keen tomorrow I will. Somewhere along the line you will have a venturi in the throttle body I assume, by the throttle plate. That will give you vacuum, either 'ported vac' so it is shut off by the throttle plate at idle, or 'manifold vac' so it just plugs into the intake between the throttle plate and the turbo. How about you draw a diagram of your setup for us.... Then we can tell you where you need to plug it in.

Something jammed down the carb throat?? (I've seen it happen... airbox bolt on a rally car!) Bent throttle shaft ? It doesn't have the KE70 diaphram stop on it does it?? Find out if the throttle plate closes completely and if not, why not. Shine a torch down the throat or unbolt the carb to look at the underneath if you have to. I'm afraid I've only got a KE70 carb manual.

ah... Conrod Straight today... 300kph and no backing off! Bad luck for Lowndes, just another lap or two would've done it!

You can bolt the gear onto the 5K easy enough., but the cam will be ground for solid lifters and the 5K should have hydraulics. You will need a different grind on the lifter base. If you want to swap heads you'll need to know which 5K you have as they have bowl-in-piston ('D' dish) with a tiny combustion chamber in the head, or 'O' dish (shallow dish) pistons with a larger chamber in the head. A compression around 10:1 I would reckon, I don't think the 4K head will suit the D dish for sure, but you would get that with O dish pistons and a 4K head . Evan's idea is good, if the 5K pistons are good just machine them into the 4K and get the best of both worlds.

I use a 1/4" drive set a lot, they're all just over 50mm long, 6 to 12mm I think it runs. Very handy in the garage, they're from my days repairing appliances. Probably just a few bucks, no tools with them, just the sockets & a 3/8th to 1/4th converter.

Balance is big I'd say, mine will rev, but its growly. Five does the job, it will make 6 but I wouldn't want it higher without a full balance.

This sort of shape- beautiful NEEDS curves!

Buy it cheap, sell it on here & use that money for a small Weber or SUs

No no, its just another example of what happens when you let a Govt represent you. In an anarchy or a Libertarian state that wouldn't be possible. So, what happens to Greece and the PIGS?? Are they going to spend a couple of generations working hard to pay back debt that their Govts borrowed, or even end up in perpetual debt as serfs because they can't pay the principal back and just pay interest for years and years. I mean, its not that the people who will be grafting their asses off are the ones who particularly benefited from the loans either. The videos surprised me, I hadn't heard anything from inside Greece to counteract the mainstream media view.

We got any Greeks on board?? Is this what you have heard of Greece... The IMF go in after Goldman-Sachs had raped it and loaned them money providing they had access to ANYTHING the Greeks owned if the debt wasn't paid off. The debt went into Greek coffers and straight out to pay foreign bankers, leaving Greece just as shafted. Of course it could never happen here, "Australia is different"..... Our Govt wouldn't waste money, borrow too much, then shackle the people to serfdom to pay for it... Would they?? http://www.realecontv.com/videos/europe/what-it-means-when-your-country-goes-broke.html

The Volvo P1800 was always surprisingly lovely and ahead of its time, especially for Volvo!

Clever idea- although a 6L Holden would need to weigh 2tons instead of 1600kg odd!

In the past I have found a bit of wire of the right thickness, a kitchen tie or similar, and used that stuck in endways. With the Datsun 1600 rally car we would set them using a protractor on the cam, but these damm sidecams are a nuisance for that!

What are you doing about vac advance on the dizzy?? & what carb will you use?? The carbon canister uses ported vac to suck all the petrol fumes out when you run, and I imagine it acts as the vent 'in' for the fuel tank as you use fuel. During the day it catches fumes from the tank and carb warming up when the motor is off. So if I were you I'd keep it if there is a source of ported vac before the turbo.

Did the motor use to run with this carb?? Nothing has been changed? What happens when you turn the throttle screw down?? Does it just die? A blocked idle jet is the most likely if that is the case. If the screw doesn't drop the speed, is the cable slack enough at idle? You could pop the cable off to check the carb by itself. If it idles fast and the cable has slack, you might have an air leak via a gasket or hose- brake booster if you've fitted one, dizzy vac line, PCV if its there..

Well, seeing the speeds that the V8brutes go around the Chase at Bathurst, you can use good ol' Aussie iron to get 300kph+.... and hang the tail out! Makes them Europeens look like pooftahs...