altezzaclub

....and all this 5K confusion depends on which pistons are in the 5K, the deep "D" dish or the shallow "round" dish. The 5K block with shallow dish pistons and a 4K head is a great idea, but then you have the hydraulic to mechanical pushrods conversion on top of that. Cheapest to stick with the 4K. If you haven't measured head volumes and areas before, just ask. Its in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

2J is bigger, heavier, slower revving but will make much more power with factory turbo setup. 3S is more compact, lighter and more revvy. Depends what you want to do.

Spencer is right- and if you bargain the price down you're on a winner.

My man said they were from Endurotec, +20 & +40, round dish. Quite a few people stock them, looking at the web.

Play nicely children! So.... does anyone have a written reference where we can look this up, or is it all just talk?? Even RTA bureaucrats are liable to express opinions as law rather than quote you the written rules.

Needs a tune! Set the points and timing, & check the plugs. Ideally with a dwell meter and give it 10 to 12deg advance. See if it makes a difference. Run it around for a tank full of gas and see how many L/100km you get. Don't tell us $20 does a weeks running... You need full tank to full tank so its accurate. This is because it sounds like its too rich rather than too lean, but a fuel consumption check will help show that. The popping is it backfiring through the carb. Rich comes from shit under the needle and seat valve in the carb, and lean comes from blocked jets and leaking gaskets. Have you done any work on it recently?? Did the problem slowly arrive or just start happening one week??

I just asked my local parts supplier when I was researching price.. I'm afraid I didn't note the brand but they said they were freely available. I'll phone them tomorrow-

Yeah- school holidays again. 5minutes on the RTA website would show that there is nothing announced, and they wouldn't be this close to 28th Sept without a lot of public comment.

Get out the tyre groover for that pedal rubber!

Can you manually change to 2nd with the gearlever?? That would make the kickdown redundant- you have a manual auto....

If the reservoir empties, find out where the fluid is going... You have leak somewhere. Probably out of the masyter cylinder and into the booster. Look at the firewall under the booster. I assume you have checked all 4 wheels and its not leaking anywhere there.

Copy this first- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727

War stories & hard science fiction for 50years. Peter F Hamilton & Gibson in the last decade. Some good stuff on the 'net too. Recently my wife turned me into a Falco & Libertus fan, they are each a series based in Roman times. Falco is an informer & solves crimes usually based in Rome, and Libertas is a tiler making mosaics and solves crimes in Roman-occupied Britain. Both authors are women but I can't remember their names.... ah Google is God- Lindsey Davis did Falco & Rosemary Rowe wrote the Libertus books. Read them in order, your library is your bookfriend.

..and I haven't had a problem with rocker ratio using 10 to 1 compression. As you can imagine, the more the head moves down the more the pushrods stick up and so the steeper the angle the pushrods point down when they open the valves. Eventually the end of the pushrods wipes off the edge of the valve top. How hard would it be to cut some brass shim metal to the footprint of each rocker shaft tower and space them back up 20thou??

Start here- All components defined. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=579557

Well, it does according to the guy who wrote the article, but only when comig off the choke when cold. He doesn't say what that diaphram is, but it obviously opens and closes a fuel pathway according to a vacuum signal. I assume its an enrichment device for cold running. If you block all the vac lines you will stop it working, and maybe it is now flooding at idle because the vac can't shut it off. Hook that part of the vac circuit back up and see if it solves it. Your carb man should have suggested that if it was the solution. If he's talking about a cover over the idle mixture screw that stops people playing with it?? So it is factory set and not needed for tuning?? There must be some other way to adjust idle mixture then. If it is related to blocking the vac hoses, then you'll have to re-connect them all and get it working, then block one at a time and see which one stops it idling. It would pay to Google all those components and find out what each one does. It seems no-one on Rollaclub knows anything about it, so you'll have to solve this one yourself. A retired Toyota mechanic who used to work on those carbs would be the man, your local Toyota dealership might have someone like that. I suppose the big question is... Was it idling perfectly when you got it?? If it was then you can put it back to that state. If it wasn't then the problem could be anywhere in there.

Not this problem is it?? I'm sure you've looked at it... http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/12658-fixing-your-stalling-4a-c-engine.html

So the TVSV is the temperature vacuum switching valve that runs the EGR system. It might be varying the vacuum with temperature, depending on which port you used, or it might not be working at all if the other lines are blocked. I think you should use the one shown in yellow, straight from the manifold for manifold vac. Those that are shown in blue are all under the same vac, so any line into there would do. It doesn't seem to have a ported vac, the throttle plate doesn't shut off any line at idle. The red area is in a venturi so it has vac that is proportional to air velocity, not what you want for vac advance. It would be interesting if you connected up the other line on the dizzy vac while you had a timing light on it and found out if it gave vac advance or vac retarding...

You sure you have the dwell & timing advance set correctly. Too closed or too retarded makes it pretty flat. These motors run fine with 10 or 12deg advance. The sluggish carbs could be rich or lean low down. How is the idle?? The idle jets actually run the motor up to a couple of thousand revs before they hand over to the main jet system. An air leak would make it lean and starve it of power low down. The trouble is, any carb problem I think of I'd expect your carb man to have checked. Go check the gap with a dwell meter (much better than feeler gauges) and give it 12deg. Hold it! What is the vac advance arrangement on the new carbs?? Have you got both carb ports on a T-piece to the dizzy?? Can you see its effect with a timing light if you take the hose off the vac diaphram??

The 4AC an SOHC like the L16, & although the L isn't even crossflow the SSS had 15bhp more. The 5M from the Cressida is the nearest to an L28, SOHC 2valve 2.8L on carbs.

Nice find! There is only ONE thing to do with it....

That does look good, especially around the tail light area. Will you chop rear doors to a single skin and weld them in?? Plastic windows? All the cheap lightening you can... How about a 5K turbo?? What class of racing are you looking at?

Mitch!!! inches & cc !! Evan, look at my build thread. You put a piece of graph paper over the chamber & draw the outline, then count the squares to get the area in square cm. You can then find out how much you reduce the head volume by removing half a mm etc and thence the new CR.

Have you changed anything in the dizzy?? or is it exactly the same as it was with the old carb. That's what happened when I fitted an electronic dizzy, the avance curve was very slow and the car was the same! If it actually bogs down in a flatspot as you boot it then it might be leaning out momentarily, but your carb man should have noticed anything like that.

OK, so it may not be filling the bowl with fuel and flooding it. There might be a vacuum control of the idle via some vac solenoid you've blocked, or a leak in one of the vac lines that is leaning it out. Is there a vac diaphram on the throttle arm or idle screw pivot?? Hopefully someone on here will be a 4AC expert.