altezzaclub

I think the problem is that you don't know you're having problems! If the filter media area is small it fills up with gunk, blocks and then the bypass valve in the filter opens and it just bypasses all the oil. So unfiltered oil circulates until the next time you change a filter, and the only thing you know is that the bearings are worn out. Same if the filter media is too coarse, the oil still goes round and round, but it carries a lot of grit that chews out all the bearing over a time, but its not a problem you see until the engine needs a rebuild. I doubt that there's much difference within say Toyota filters across all the models except the fitting size. So if it screws onto the motor and seals nicely it will probably do the job. It certainly seems that a lot of filter numbers are interchangeable.

Yes, it should go to the carb. I think it works like this- When the car sits in the sun the fuel in the tank evaporates and vents through the canister to the carb. The charcoal absorbs the fuel on the way to stop the air pollution. When you start the car it sucks air through the canister and draws the fuel off the charcoal and burns it. If the hose is not connected to the carb you should smell petrol in the garage on a hot day.

Is there a problem with it Tioklou? I've just pulled my oil pump off, cleaned it everywhere and put a washer under the spring to increase the bypass pressure slightly. I figured it was worth doing once I had the sump off...

and maybe chase a leaking manifold gasket... It sounds a tad fluffy, not sharp on some engine beats. We get the random misfire occasionally, not as often as your motor, and I put it down to a worn dizzy shaft or something similar, when the gears flip from tension to compression, or from one side of the gear to the other and causes a change in timing. Once you accelerate everything lines up and works hard, so it only occurs under no-load at idle. Old Fella's idea with the cap stubs can be worked on too, you can scrape any oxide off and bend the stubs towards the rotor with a flatblade a mm or so, if they are soft. (aluminium)

Well, the oil pump gives you maximum pressure and that is regulated by the by-pass valve on the side of the pump, say 65psi. The oil pump gears get worn and that drops the maximum pressure it can manage to start with. Then you can lose it in the oil filter if the by-pass 'dirty filter' valve is set to less than that. It shoudn't be, but some oil filters are not well-made. Then you lose it in the crankshaft if the bearings are worn and it flows out too fast. and then what's left gets to the top of the engine for the tappets and valves. So you need to have all those things working to get best pressure up to the top. ..and you can fiddle with the psi numbers by changing the viscosity of the oil, but that may not be a good thing as high pressure means less flow if you go to a thicker oil.

Aren't they usually BSPT. All those fine-thread fitting like that one, the brake vacuum line, the vacuum temperature sensor I thought were all old British plumbing threads.

I never asked them- Can you look up an '83 Ke70 with a 4K? There should only be one filter for all the 4Ks. Might be interesting...

Hmmm... Toyota in Orange want $25 (retail) for a KE70 filter. The Altezza 3S-GE one is only $17! Maybe time to bring a few in from NZ at $14... Just have to convince someone to fill up their hand luggage! Kozmo, where do you buy your Amsoil ones, and what are they worth?

: sigh :.... So its back with the grinder until they're a couple of mm bigger all round then? At least one face is bigger already, the mis-aligned one! ...and I can see all the guys who want a loping idle hogging out the exhaust ports in the head to create reversion waves and get it to sound like a bridgeport rotary! :D

^ ^ ^ Into the dodgy mods thread!! :D Cheap, crude and effective!

I think the wheel alignment would be the killer. When you're working on a couple of mm for toein it means every part of the new suspension must be in exactly the right place within those couple of mm. Even welding a mount in will lead to heat distortion that might be enough to put it out by too much. You'd probably end up with a car that oversteers in one direction and understeers in the other...

That's not good... All the fuel should be going down the carb under vacuum, so even if you have leaks in the carb/manifold it shouldn't give rise to fumes. So, either its running rich and you can smell unburnt fuel from the exhaust, in which case it will use more than 8L/100km and the soot will carbon up the cylinders and cause over-run.... or you have a fuel leak from a pipe before the carb that lets liquid fuel/fumes out. How's the carbon filter setup?? Still all connected? I think that is meant to be under negative pressure when the motor is running so fumes shouldn't escape, but I wonder if it bleeds fumes while driving if its not connected to the carb. Mine smells of raw fuel when I turn it off in the garage, and I assume that means the charcoal in the canister is saturated and can't absorb any more.

I have a feeling that "lumpy idle" starts with cams around 270deg. Anyone got opinions/experience on that? For the list above I just took all the cams I was interested in for low-down power, there are just as many 270deg and above to pick from.

Surely you'd cut the rear floorpan out of both cars and then fit the Nissan one in the 'rolla?? That would put all your mounts in place with the right reinforcing, you'd just have to match the panels.

First thing is, what revs do you want to drive it at? You'll find the manufacturers give a rev range for each grind, and to make it work properly you'll need better carbs, exhaust and higher compression. I'm getting a Crow 606 for use under 5000rpm, & Rob runs a Tighe 104 I think it is, hot enough to get a grumpy idle on SUs and a set of extractors. These are specs on the lower rev range cams cut in Aussie. There is stacks to learn about!

Usual cause is timing too advanced, occasional cause is being too hot (are you sure your temp gauge is correct?) or a lean mixture, or low-octane fuel, or a carboned up motor. The fuel shut-off solenoid is definately a likely factor I think, otherwise they wouldn't have bothered to fit one at the factory. You can build a knock detector for a handful of bucks- http://autospeed.com.au/cms/article.html?&A=0353 When can you smell fuel? When you're driving or when you turn the motor off and get out?

That's it in a nutshell, TV has killed Formulae One stone dead! He wants a spectacle, the Roman circus for the proles and to hell with the original idea which was to see who could build the fastest car to a set formulae. I always feel the racing is more honest in other places, like Le Mans 24hr or lower levels of the sport. Eccleston's ideas have been senile for years...

haha! Jace! Can't resist this- "Redwarf Group: Global Moderator" said- and buy a KE70 as the next project!

So, today was time to clean the holes out... The manifold bolt holes (I have only 2 studs and the rest are 10mm bolts) then the head bolt holes. I have a bolt with a hacksawed slot down it that acts as a tap without actually cutting any metal, so when I could screw that fully in and out by hand I knew the threads were clean. There can be a lot of tarry shit and dirt down a hole that you just never see, but it can stop the bolt tensioning up on the head or manifold. It takes a few tries to get the slotted bolt in and out without filling the slots up with rubbish. I measured a headbolt height in the block and the head depth just to make sure that the bolt would pull the head down without bottoming, you just never know... 3mm of extra space after skimming half a mm off the head. Then I tipped the block upside down on two bits of wood and banged it up and down a few times. Unfortunately I vacuumed up the rusty mess that came out, then I started in the coolant holes with a small torch and a screwdriver. Just scraping that around in all directions in each hole produced the extra pile of rust and stuff pictured. Most of it was on the bottom of the waterway at the rear cylinders, but quite a lot had bridged between cylinders or between a cylinder and the block. That all acts as an insulator that keeps the heat in and slows down the flow. I don't know how the car was treated for the last 25years, but at least I'm sure it will be better in the future!

Buy a $10 multimeter if you don't already own one, and check the voltage on the battery when idling & revving, both with and without the lights on. A healthy alty will keep the voltage around 13volts without lights and 12v with them on. I'd be surprised if it is a straight alty fault, (usually brushes worn or a diode burnt out) as the battery should supply enough to run the engine and the lights without the alternator connected at all for quite a few hours. I'm wondering if there is a short somewhere in the lighting circuit that is pulling a fat current out of the system and dropping the voltage, although you should smell something hot or burning if that is the case. See what you can find...

hmm.. I hadn't thought of that- I did notice the performance advertising was all aimed at Holden and Ford, while the most common Toyota extractors were for 4WDs, Landcruisers etc. Part of owning a 'rolla I suppose, buy somethig and then have to modify it to do the job it was designed for..

NOW I understand this modern term Azzy, the diff is the last thing you need to worry about! -Get onto an English course at Tech. If you can't communicate clearly you will not succeed in a technical field like engineering, which is what cars are all about. -Offer to work for a small garage like an Ultratune franchise for peanuts while you learn, say 6months, then if you really like it apply for an apprenticeship. -Get onside with the Boss & get him to help you do a head overhaul, fit twin carbs, a cam and an exhaust. -Go over the suspension and lower it, stiffen it with shocks and make sure the brakes are absolutely 100%. It still won't drift, but then you will know enough to fit a dff with an LSD if you want one!

Outweighed only by the internet itself, the most amazing place to spread information and store knowledge, something that was never thought of when Bob Kahn invented TCPIP! I'm sure people who have not lived without it cannot imagine what the world was like only a few years ago! There were no geeks, no forums, no gaming, no way of asking about your car unless you knew someone personally who could tell you over the phone in the hallway...

30mm. The head was about 27mm.

OK, the head has been off for a couple of weeks now. The first job was to open up the inlet ports to suit the Lynx manifold, which went well, then the engineer machined valves & seats, took 15thou off it and most important, got it sparkling clean! Now to match the extractors. The one-piece Durapro manifold gasket was offset to one side (it fits on the inlet manifold locating pins, so it can't move around) so I hit the offending holes with a small grinding wheel in a drill. They came out OK, but it shouldn't have needed to be done if the manufacturers took some care. Some careful marking of the extractors found the best-fit position for them (they do walk around on the bolts) but it was clear the end pipes were too low. This was obvious when I put a straight-edge across all four pipes. The straight-edge (a bit of thick-wall aluminium section) was perfect along the head ports, but over 2mm off on cyl 1 & 4 on the extractors The steel plate they are welded onto is straight, but the end holes are cut in the wrong place. The photo shows them after I'd already started work on them, I only got the camera out after I got pissed off enough to write a topic on it! Another half an hour with a grinder and a file slowly sorted them out. Take a straight-edge with you when you go buying extractors! Next was bolting it up to the head, and surprise surprise, the welds obscure the nut placement so the nuts can't be done up tight! So next job is to grind the welds back until a spring washer can sit there, which is after a cup of coffee now! That's labelled 'A'. You can also see the flange thickness difference between the inlet and extractors, so I'll have to pack the thinner one of the manifolds or it will not be clamped tight. That's labelled 'B' ..and talking of stupid engineering and poor execution, the brass circle in the inlet (labelled 'C') is where the brake booster pipe was mounted, completely obscuring the top nut on the inlet. You had to take the little pipe out every time you wanted to undo the manifold nut, AND you couldn't swing a spanner on the pipe because the manifold nut was in the way! That's been transferred into the thick manifold flange out of the way. This is all 2-hand gear, so what sort of quality are people building into their cars?