Sam_Q

Well there you go, I stand corrected on the squirters. With the rods I stand by what I said though, sounds like your engine builder is one of the old V8 guys. Shot-peening the rods would be pretty pointless when they are as strong as they are. Even the flimsy looking blacktop 20V rods are surprisingly strong and people have used with boost before. Good to see another one of my parts that are going to be used. The laser cut flanges are another one of those things that I don't make that much on but I am happy to offer them because it makes it easier for people.

It's real easy to tell if you have oil squirters by looking at the blocks, someone can correct me if there are any exceptions to this but as far as I know all 7-rib blocks had them and none of the 3-rib ones did. The oil squirters can be retro-fitted if the block is machined and tapped to suit. Doesn't look like an overly hard job either for one who has the right equipment. But you will need to manually cut a pocket out of your existing pistons or fit the later type or else their skirts won't clear the squirters near bottom dead center. Why do you want the biggest rods? If it's strength due to boost then you're looking in the wrong place, only revs will kill a 4A rod. So you will only be putting more load on your engine by running the heavier type. I personally like the idea of going for a light aftermarket rod to help with that and the response.

Here you go: http://www.sq-engineering.com/upgrade-parts/engine/4age-20v/20v-4age-distributor-kit.html All you need is a socket set and allen keys. Real easy and quick job too. The pic on the engine is of the older kit, these new V5 models are machiend out of a solid block. I need to take an updated photo of one of the new kits fitted to my test engine. I also suggest having a look at the other products: http://www.sq-engineering.com/upgrade-parts/engine/4age-20v.html http://www.sq-engineering.com/replacement-parts/engine/4age-20v.html Running coilpacks on the stock ECU has been done and some get it to work well, others have tried without any success. Either way it makes the coils prone to cook. I personally don't suggest it.

well I wouldn't of done so if I didn't think it was a worthwhile project, so you are welcome

hahahaha! I guess I better go hide somewhere now! Good work though, happy to see you're still at this.

if it's anything like the other engines I have seen the heater tap fully cuts the water flow off when the selector switch is on the cool setting. I very often see people bypass a heater circuit when not running one because they don't know that this is the oppersite of what they should do. This causes a radiator bypass and nothing else. I had the exact same idea as you many years ago with the heater valve, I took out of of an EA ford or something like that that's pretty similar. I was going to use a T-piece between the one way valve and the brake booster chamber. Those velocity stacks could use a parabolic shape added to them, hahahaha

can you replace the bearing in the Tein tops?

no, you can't even chop the flange off and weld a 7afe one on. This is because on those engines the outer two cylinders curve in.

post pictures of what you have now

progress is good. I have more diff baffles should you want them

the reason why they are different lengths is because of the positions on the head, you see on one side the bolt heads/nuts are much lower down and hence need a shorter length to suit. The thread depth on the block is identical. On a 20V they only use the longer type all round. Also there is a known problem that ARP don't tell you, you have to grind a bit out of one of the studs so the dizzy can be reinserted. By the way I respect your machining skills

ah good point, and I guess even if it was to go due to it sitting around then it wouldn't be "a large pool of water". One of the drain holes to look at it at the bottom of the door, pulling the door card off to see if the door is full of water would be a good place to start

It's not coolant by any chance? you could have a bad heater core

Ah you mean more resistance in terms of the extra loading from the greater inefficiency of the rear wheel drive line compared to the front, so more losses and therefore more engine load to sustain same vehicle speed and acceleration. I understand what you mean now but I can't imagine it making much of a difference in terms of cooling. The front wheel drive pumps have an extra impellow blade, I won't pretend to know if this has much of an effect hence my careful wording. Blocking the heater line is a good idea, otherwise you have a pretty serious compromise on your cooling system. All this said 4age engines just don't run very hot usually. I ran my 20v for many years without a fan and a Hyundai radiator.

HIgher pressure load? can you explain what you mean by this? The front wheel drive pumps may well be a better pump in terms of flow. Also what makes you think rear wheel drive engines have more resistance in rotation? The extra bearing and ribs are to handle the forces exerted from the mechanical fan and clutch. Bypassing the heater is a bad idea because it's then a radiator bypass. It should always be blocked not bypassed.