altezzaclub

Ah! Of course, I was thinking of the 4AC in the AE71, you've got 15KW over that single-cam unit already. Well, any time people have suggested doing up a 4AF everyone says "drop in a 4AG"... I expect that is worldwide so no-one has spent much time in developing the 4AFs. Dang! Reading Wikipedia I can see why! " The 4A-FE is different from the 4A-GE in terms of performance and power. Although both have the same displacement and are DOHC, they were optimized for different uses. The first obvious difference are the valves, the engine's intake and exhaust valves were placed 22.3° apart (compared to 50° in the G-Engines). The second is that it employed a "slave cam system", the camshafts being geared together and driven off one camshaft's sprocket (both camshafts' sprockets on the G-Engine are rotated by the timing belt). Some of the less directly visible differences were poorly shaped ports in the earlier versions, a slow burning combustion chamber with heavily shrouded valves, less aggressive camshaft profiles, ports of a small cross sectional area, a very restrictive intake manifold with long runners joined to a small displacement plenum and other changes. Even though the valve angle is closer to what is considered in some racing circles[who?] to be ideal for power (approximately 25 degrees), its other design differences and the intake which is tuned for a primary harmonic resonance at low RPM means that it has about 10% less power compared to the 4A-GE engine. This engine design improves fuel efficiency and torque, but compromises power. " You're really on the back foot with the carb version, 71KW and 127NM, even the injected F had a big jump to 84KW & 145NM. So it looks like a good porting job would be a start, you might ask odelskewoltoy his thoughts, he's a head porter in the USA. He's on here as well. https://www.club4ag.com//forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&p=134326#p134326 If the heads are cheap, buy a 2nd one from a wrecker and expect to ruin one in your education. I have a feeling your whole budget could vanish into having it done commercially, but ask a few shops anyway. it looks like it will be a battle to get it to rev high, so aim for torque. Carbs... can you fit twin DCOE Webers in there?? a single DCOE? Quad bike carbs?? You'll probably need to make your own inlet manifold for them either way. Cams that aim for lift more than massive duration, an exhaust of medium size rather than large.. Lots of reading to do- https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/134-corolla-6th-generation-1988-1992/356232-4af-engine-modifications-idea-problems.html https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/134-corolla-6th-generation-1988-1992/381051-modified-corolla-1600-16v-4af-carb-engine.html https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/16-archived-corolla-threads/136189-4af-mods.html https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/16-archived-corolla-threads/102365-cheap-mods-4af.html https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/134-corolla-6th-generation-1988-1992/29170-4af-performance-tuning.html Well well, look at this! https://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/64392-4AF-head-prep-and-porting?s=95332339e6fe1c856317a743897c4d62 Plenty to get you thinking-

Well, straight off the diagram they should be- Black/Orange- well, B/R is +12V from engine fuse, maybe B/O is it. You don't have a B/R. Yellow, Yellow, Check & make sure one is not yellow/white, the charge light. Yellow/Black- oil pressure light Red/White- handbrake light Red- hazard relay (Europe) Yellow/Blue- fuel sender light Black- Tacho feed ------------------------------------------------- Green/Yellow- indicators right Yellow/Red- Fuel sender unit Green/Black- indicators left White/Black- Earth White/Black- Earth Yellow/Green- water temp Red/Blue- +12V in from gauges fuse White/Black- Earth --------------------------------------------- Blue/White- choke switch (Europe) Green- +12V for lights but "not headlights" ----------------------------------------------- Red/Green- Clock Pink/Blue- Cig lighter You should put a couple of extension wires on a multimeter and put one probe in these plugs, then see if it comes out where it is meant to under the bonnet or around the car. That's the only way to confirm it.

De nada- Todos necesitamos ayudar con autos viejos.

How far are you planning to go?? Carbs, cam, compression & a porting job? It will keep up with the traffic but it will never get near 4AGE power, 8valves will never rev as easily.... Depends on your budget and what you want to do with it.

Actually, here's the only bit you should need. You should have white/black, black, yellow/green, yellow/red, yellow/black, yellow/blue, red/white, yellow/white, and red/blue spread over the plugs.

Wiring diagram- For USA models, so it has extras Australia never saw. https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0 Check out the colours of the wires on each side of the plugs and see if they either agree, or you can find them in the wiring diagram.

Down at Auburn Vale the deck is half sanded/oiled. Its been in the sun so long it won't come up like new unless we sand 2mm off the top, but this will keep it protected. We patched the drinking water tank at the house too, some people were not keen about the red worms wriggling around in their glass. A quick google showed them to be bloodworms, the lavae of a non-biting harmless midge, but definitely off-putting. I vacuumed the tank dirt out too, and saw a brown snake escaping the water going everywhere by sliding under the blue car. A search showed it kept moving on.. That got me looking at the concrete tank, 40,000L and not being used.. however a look inside was quite daunting! I pulled the main plug and let the metre of sludge out, and when its dried we can get in with a shovel. However the big problem is the tree that is growing over the roof blocking the gutters... I can put a roof over the tank again, but dropping that tree without hitting the roof, the cars or the power lines is something else! Anyway, AuntyCat, who I catnapped from Strathaven and bought down to A'vale, became Mothercat down in the shearers cottage where Steve's little bro lives. She bought two grown kittens up to the main farmhouse, where they seem to have made themselves at home. Aren't cats clever! A long break now, I've got to stay at home looking after cats & chickens while my mob are overseas, so it will be 6weeks before I get up there again. We'll see what happens then...

This requires farm machinery.. two gensets to run pumps! Beautifully made, quiet and efficient.. except you have to check the oil each tankful of fuel, even tho' they're brand new. Just for interest we stripped the motor after it seized... A SOHC with a centrifugal cam-controlled exhaust timing that holds the valve open past TDC to regulate the max speed. The thing that was a carb is actually a fuel-injection system! The generator part is built-in to it all. It ran again but didn't produce enough grunt, so we have a new larger version. Steve bought a Hino fridge truck, so we did a rubbish run before hitting it with the water blaster to clean it out. We tried to get the old decals off, but its a massive job, so it was pressed into service as it was, a milk delivery truck! New vinyls will come later. We turned the Dyna into a spray truck. Making the booms was easier than getting it mobile, it had been neglected for years. The Nikki carb ran flooded all the time, and it took a day to swap enough parts to fix that, and now it only runs with the choke full out! Some massive air leak somewhere, but we didn't have time to pull the manifold off and see if the missing bolts in the middle were important.. The little bit of "oil" left in the gearbox & diff was like grease, obviously not changed in the last 30years, the clutch doesn't free completely, the wiring will set fire to it one day and the starter solenoid is moody..

I modified a rubber channel to fit under the new alloy radiator, then drilled a hole at the top of one side to be tight, and the other side to be slightly loose so it can slide under stress. Hopefully this will allow the front of the car to flex without flexing the rad as well. I'd already cut the front out to help with motor changes, and when I put the top strip back it it was reinforced so is stronger than the floppy stock one. These are the modified KE70 spring tops we made to keep the front springs in line and captive- Back outside, things are growing. The green manure crop is now waist-high, compared to this photo. A quick trip in Pete's R44 showed how patchy the watering was, and we now have even water over the whole area. The trial vege garden is producing, Steve has a regular run on Tuesdays to organic shops and restaurants etc up Armidale way, zuchinni, beans, silver beet, and beetroot. But the main course is in the glasshouse, 6000 seeds planted every two weeks, to be planted out in the main area when the green manure crop has been slashed & dug back in. All the Brassica family, brocolli, cabbage, caulis, kale.. for winter frosts.

More shiny goodness from SamQ for the back of the head, although we only wanted one outlet and plugged the other 3. We cut the steel bypass line to fit and cleaned all the water pump gear. The hose fittings were all corroded, but some bog tidied them up. Then we moved onto gearbox and thrust bearing problems.. The difference in the wire clips shown on those thrust bearings shows how different the Altezza J160 box is. No other Toyota seems to have the same clip system. However it was one of several major problems involving the clutch stuff. Basically the Altezza crank sits about 14mm further out from the block, so on a 4AGE the gearbox input shaft doesn't go inside the spigot bearing, the thrust bearing carrier falls off the front of the input shaft tube, and the slave arm pivot can't stick out far enough to let the arm push the thrust bearing far enough forward. We're currently looking at the best way to move those three components forward. We only found this out after buying a slave cylinder (off another Toyota) but on Ebay they can't be determined if they're left-hand or RH, and of course it is upside-down on the J160... so useless! Meanwhile, the boss was there in my chair and wouldn't even let me have lunch!

Stu, we would've loved that! next time... Well, another trip, more work... Into the Sigma LCAs.... they push the steering arm and strut out so far that the steering arm balljoint runs out of angle and the LCA with the steering arm on it can't match the angle of the face on the bottom of the strut. Alternatively, if you put the assembly together then the steering balljoint jams on the edge of its cup and that is the limit of suspension droop, and THAT won't be good for the balljoint. In the photo here the balljoint jams on the inner edge of its cup. We made a couple of wedges to fit between the LCA and the balljoint, so it tilts the balljoint and makes it more horizontal. This tilted the balljoint just enough to allow the strut to bottom out without the balljoint jamming in its cup. With the front suspension done we hit the rear arches. Without springs and shocks the axle goes right up and hits the body in several places at once, a wonderful design. With the 14" rims we needed to chop 75mm out of the top of the wheel arch and re-weld the inner and outer skins. We cut the arches off the front guards of one of the paddock Coronas and made those fit. They aren't a dead copy of the KE70 shapes, but now that they are trimmed, riveted, bogged and painted they look fine!

As far as I know, yes. We've never found a difference swapping parts round the models except for the panels in the front & the mechanicals.

Looks like a relay. Get the wire colours that go into it and check a wiring diagram for their function.

Haha! Excellent Pete, so I can expect some clever ideas as we progress with the build...... The overall aim at the moment is to get it back on its wheels with the motor & gearbox in, some doors hung on it and some ballast in to see what the ride height is like. I need to move the rear shock mounts to make the most of the Bilstein's travel, but I need an idea of ride height for that. So solving the 6-speed problems plus the 4AGE conversion problems plus random suspension modification problems are all part of that road..

Well, another trip and yep, struts done... Of course they don't fit!! The Sigma LCAs give it such a camber angle that the LCA balljoint runs out of angle. I assume people who use them ignore that and let the droop limit be the balljoint jamming. Anyway, another little problem to solve later, we'll see how it all sits with a motor in. Ah.. hang on, assembling the flywheel & clutch shows the clutch plate has the wrong number of splines! ..and we need an Altezza slave cyl. You can pay a lot of money for these, or find out which parts bin Toyota used and buy them for Coronas or Hilux or whatever! The gearbox mount is welded up and ready for fitting, that will be interesting! A constant irrigation has grown the manure crop and taught a lot about plumbing! ..and someone is going to be eating a lot of zuchinnis in a month's time! Steve's dad Pete took me to the Avalon Airshow for a week to look at the helicopters for sale. We spent an excellent day at the RAAF museum while we were there. So, Orange for a week, then back up to get that motor in!

" I just tested it and got 14.1 km per litre (7 litres per 100klm). " Ouch- That's what the 4AGE returns running the 500km up to the Woolshed and back.. and you've got a lot more motor there!

Just for fun... before you drive it anywhere, take off the radiator cap and fill the rad to the brim. Leave the cap off, start it up and idle it to see if water gets pushed out by bubbles before the thermostat opens after about 5-10minutes. Occasionally #4 head gasket goes, but if not then maybe a valve is burnt. The compression gauge will show a burnt valve, but not a head gasket blown.

The big job was fitting a plastic roof to make a glasshouse for growing seedlings- and it even has a wind-up wall! The electricity went off one evening and all the next day, and that's when I discovered there were no lamps or candles at Auburn Vale. What sort of 1920s farmhouse is this?? I dug out a lamp and made sure it worked for next time! I'd moved one of Steve's farm cats down to Auburn Vale and she'd had kittens down there. Now I have them living under the deck outside my room- but that's preferable to what lives IN the room with me! ..and if you're ever taking bets of centipedes versus redbacks, I can give you a clue.. Anyway- back up tomorrow for another hit! Maybe get those struts done AND the gearbox mounts if the MiG is back. No doubt there will be lots to do setting up the inside of the glasshouse too-

Steve had made a 40M long test vege garden and the smaller sprinklers were falling over, so we made a pyramid out of old waratah posts. Lewis said that was too complicated and found an old plough disc. I welded a post on that and we had the world's simplest stand.. That was the only un-used disc in the steel dump, but there was a worn one so we welded extra feet on that for the third sprinkler. They will do the last part of the green manure crop too, its not hard to move them around while the big sprinklers are fixed in place. While I was away Steve had cleared out the storage/junk shed part of the woolshed and moved the two spare cars out to a new home. Now we need to re-roof this one too! Then they stripped the timber cladding off the Woolshed North wall and fixed the rotted posts. The corner one was especially bad!

OK, so a trip or two back Steve ploughed a couple of hectares and planted a green manure crop. When I arrived up in Jan it was growing well, but suffering the drought- The solution involved a big handful of cash and an ex-Council diesel water pump. Not cheap, but a nice setup, pumping out the dam and covering about 2/3 of the crop.. With another handful of cash it was powering irrigation sprinklers. In the workshop I found the usual chaos, this time the Landcruiser farm ute. I needed the rally car's gearbox mounts welding, and the welder was back at Kempi being fixed, so I cleaned the hubs and fitted new bearings. We took one hole of the dustcover for a Terratrip probe and I put the struts together. Then the next problem.. The bushes in the camber adjusters are for 15mm strut shafts, pretty usual, but Bilsteins are only 14mm, so it was awaiting new bushes to be made. The AE86 springs don't match any spring top, KE70, Corona or Celica, so we made custom ones there too. Meh- forgot to photograph them, I'll do it this week.

haha!! Cheapest performance mod ever!!

You'll have to check the sound system wiring, some guys hook them to permanent power sadly. If its stock then it will be more lying under the dash with a light following wires and making sure the ignition barrel does actually turn off the ignition. KE70 wiring diagrams are on here somewhere. The carb problem sounds like a blocked jet, and like Big G says, pull the jets out, squirt them out with cleaner and squirt through the drillings in the carb. If you've got access to a compressor use that, or just get a 10ml syringe without a needle and push petrol through the drillings. A full stripdown would be best, but hey.... filter also as Spirit said, and just check the points gap & timing in case.. The choke raises the idle speed as well as doing mixture richening, so maybe the idle speed needs checking.

" the squeak goes away when i put even the slightest amount of pressure on the clutch. " If you're quite confident in this then it limits the options- Clutch pedal/pedal box vibrations Does it have a cable?? A likely source of squeaks if it does, it vibrates a lot when relaxed. Clutch arm going into the gearbox. Does it have a spring pulling the clutch arm back off the pressure plate? Thrust bearing Spigot bearing ..and that pretty much cover the components that get affected when you press the clutch pedal. Something may be making the noise as the result of the general engine vibration, rather than being worn itself. Also notable that its only when the car is under motion, when the motor and components are tilted under force compared to relaxed in neural. That makes it hard to crawl around searching for it.

Well, lift gives more torque, duration gives more power... Pick a cam that opens quickly, so its 050" lift figures will be a tad higher than others. They will also be limited in the max rpm from opening the valve open & closed too quickly. The max lift will depend on the size of the spacer you can put under the shim to make up the heel grind. I have heard of shims flicking out of motors, but I expect it depends on the rpm you're going to use and if it approaches valve bounce or not. If you're going for mid-range feel rather than peak rpm then the porting job isn't so important.