altezzaclub

That looks like a stock KE70 pedal setup. Here's my 5K manual setup, converted from auto also. Here's my other KE70, pedals from an AE71 so it is hydraulic for the T50. Quite different, but bolts straight in.

The KE70 just tacks a clutch onto the side of the brake pedal mounting, and the clutch pedal arm has a massive bow in it to get down past the steering just like the brake arm.

Pop the top off the carb & clean the jets and passages in the first throat. Just in case something was loosened up in your first clean and block a drilling afterwards. It will idle on the idle jet & drive away to 1500-2000rpm still using the idle jet before it hands over fully to the main jet in the primary side of the carb. When you boot it the secondary comes in and it all works again until you back off and rely on the primary.. Does the accelerator pump push raw fuel down the carb when you open the throttle?? The condensor & coil could do it, either could break down under load, but it would be strange if they recovered at high throttle.

Two important things in tuning- Ignition points gap. Must be set with feeler gauges or a dwell meter. Ignition timing. Must be set with a timing light for best results, although you can set it about 10deg before top dead center by hand. Once you have it set to factory specifications we can chase any other problems. Carb jets... Google found me this on Rollaclub, from GMJ85-

What is the ignition advance on the motor currently? Have you had it tuned as far as points gap & timing goes?

Retirement project.. as life got in the way! I have lots of them awaiting.. Take some street photos around Long Beach for us.. Any old KEs around these days??

"& the car was stopped.." Now if only we had ABS the relay could read that! Yeah, I have a manual over-ride on both my 70s, I flick it on at roadworks after a 100kph run, the only time there is heat to dissipate. At least it gives me a running start at stopping the temp going up while stopped.

only if the car is not moving. 3 or 4 minutes stopped? 11.37.30 to 11.40.30?? Are all three at the same temp before you start the car in the morning?? I can't get my head around the bottom hose being hotter than the back of the head! Something is not right... Swap those two sensors over! The back of the head and the top rad hose follow each other well, but the bottom hose..

Well, the back of the head gets cooler than the bottom hose...!! That sudden rush of flow when the t'stat opens every 5min means very little cooling gets done and the bottom hose temp gets hotter than the back of the head. Then it cools for 4 minutes or so until the next pulse. I thought the t'stat would have a more even flow, but all three measuring points show the same cycle of up and down.. .. and both bottom and top hose have a max temp of 93deg, so no cooling w/o the fan when stopped. Now you'll have to add a throttle position recorder to see when the heat is being produced...

Well, do you think you've got better flow from the rear of the head now?? What worries me was the flow in the first trial setup, from the pump to the back of the head. Was there a way to check how much flow you had and in which direction?? Is that heater connection is on the positive pressure side of the pump, so were you pushing cold water to the back of the head, maybe over a very slight pressure differential so hardly any flow.. or were you pulling 75deg water from the back of the head and slowly adding it to the water pump to cycle round again?? Were you holding 70deg water at the back of the head until it heated up to 75?? Now you're taking 70deg hot water that has just come up from the block and actually getting it flowing quickly to the front while the rest of it winds past the combustion chambers going up to 80deg. Have you increased the flow through the block so the water is flowing from the block to the head is 5deg cooler?? If the head is more restrictive to flow than the head gasket, you may have just increased the flow noticeably.. Even MORE questions now!

Oh, it will be, no doubt about that! The dash comes out, steering off, thousands of screws and hidden connections, instrument panel, half the ventilation system.. Check out my topic about conveting a KE70 to manual. Worth it in the end though! If you can, go Altezza 3SGE. Easy power compared to the smaller 4AGE and easy driving for a daily. Get the whole package of a half-cut .

Was it running recently, or has it sat for a few years?? Just wondering of its a resin/dirt problem rather than electrical. Have you got a wiring diagram for it? I suppose you can at least test the injector circuit within the injectors. Fuel pump pressure OK?? Does anything else not work??

Never see them over here, they're all in Malaysia-Indonesia. The clutch & pedalbox will have to suit the gearbox you buy, so yeah, cable for a K50 & a Starlet/Ke70 pedalbox. Wiki says they used 3T, 1S & 4A motors, so throw away the motor & box and fit something decent! How are those Altezza 3SGE/J160 packages selling over there? Are there many Carinas in wreckers yards with the right crossmembers?

OK, so its is raising the incoming coolant temp slightly and constantly. Yep, that makes sense. So top hose at 80deg, t'stat opens, more water flows through rad, heat mass drops & temp goes down? ..or... at bottom hose 68deg the t'stat opens and water is pushed through the rad too fast to cool, so temp goes up to 72. Then t'stat closes and slows the water down so it cools more and temp drops back to 68deg. I dunno, only the top temp change has a shoulder, the bottom one is very sudden. Top is closing, bottom opening? I always assumed the t'stat ran at a fairly constant opening, but it looks like its very active. It cycles up or down every 10secs, like dropping one in a pot of boiling water. I wonder if the water pumps mixes it & flattens out the troughs & peaks?? or are the water jackets being subjected to the temp cycling? Can you see the burst of heat as you accelerate up through the gears and then cruise? Can you see when it idles?? Answers always just bring more questions!

It will be interesting to see if the internal parts of the urethane have cracked like that, or if its just in the exposed ends. It suggests to me that the urethane is formed under pressure and relaxes over the years. So it grows larger and splits when unconstrained. The bush inside the LCA might not be split at all. Otherwise, the constant rotation must be pulling it apart along ingrained fault lines.

So the rear of the head is 5-10deg cooler than the t'stat/top hose. That's interesting... Its often as cool as the lower rad hose, and that hose is interesting because its so erratic. I wonder what causes that?? When the fan came on it cooled quickly.

It really does look lovely.. What diff are you planning? What gearbox?? What clutch? You out of the comfort zone for both 4AG and 3SG with 250bhp, so I don't see the T50 gearbox or T-series diff taking it. The J160 will last a while, but not forever. The J160 Altezza box is bulky, although we haven't tried to fit it to the KE70 yet & I expect some panelbeating will be needed. The shifter tower is tall and long, so cutting the tunnel ahead of the gearlever is expected. There are a couple of adapter plates to put the J160 onto the 4AGZE, but simpler would be to leave it on a 3SGE. That would solve the clutch problem too. However that's a very tall motor, so you might run into fitment problems. Then again, the 4AGZE drops straight onto your crossmember, I'm pretty sure the 3S wont. The 3SGE is all revs, nothing much happens until 4000rpm plus, so I expect the 4AG to be more realistic to daily. You should get more mid-range torque from a turbo 1.6L to overtake the 2L 3S, although the 3S will be easier to set up and tune. In the end it will be more daily than track car, so it needs to be pleasant to drive. I dunno, there are pros and cons on both sides, you'll have to sharpen the focus on what you want the car to do and how much work each option will take. Talk to TRD KE70 about the rally car they built, they will know what gear you need like a clutch & diff to fit a 4AGE with a J160..

It does fit on the chassis easily, and I just used a longer cable to the starter. The earth is short and the fusible links reached the battery cable on the starter.

Looks like a great place to put a battery... down low at chassis level.

Mezzanine time... the sections we took off weighed a couple of hundred Kg each, and they were too wide for the door. That meant putting them inside longways, laying them on a couple of crawlers and the handtruck/engine stand, and turning them 90deg. That was the easy part! Then picking them up again and lifting them onto the posts. They went back together within a mm or two & we screwed the sections down and added the planks we'd taken off. Job finally done, a storage area with 2.2M headroom underneath ! Then the hoist could be fitted- First the pillars were stood upright, which was done by just heaving them up with the two left-handed cripples. Then lots of measuring and checking, then drilling 18mm holes for the concrete bolts. The concrete man who poured the slab was kind enough to loan us a giant drill bit and we got stuck in. The bolts torque down to 150lb-ft, and the final job was fitting the top crosspiece about 4M up. I'm back home now, ToyotaNats this weekend over Easter as a distraction, then inlaws visiting from overseas, then back up there to finish the hoist assembly and wiring. THEN start a rally car again! ...well... first some tools and jacks and parts and everything that makes a shed a workshop!

Soon! Soon.. sometime!.. so many distractions! We took the tractor up & sliced sheets of ply which we screwed to the top beam, which bird-proofed the shed. I assume they left a big gap as it was a fuel storage shed full of fuel tanks years ago, and the swallows flew in to shit over everything. Then the workshop did its first job!! We drove the Mothership up for something or other & I felt the propshaft vibration straightaway. So it was under the truck on our trolleys and then races around the super-smooth concrete! Then Steve bought an antennae & grabbed an old aerial of his Dad's. Then took quite some repairing.. We put the birdply pallet we used back on the tractor & lifted the pole up vertically, and fixed it to the Woolshed. That was exciting... A kiddie stool on top of a tyre & Steve could reach the wires he left too short.. Now we have Wi-fi for 100M around at 37Mbps! The farmhouse gets less than 2 on its Telstra phone line!! We grabbed three steel pillars from the car storage shed we'd rebuilt the mezzanine in a year ago. These were cleaned up and had feet welded on, ready for painting today. We'll have half new pillars, half bolted onto the shed structure. We'd started drilling half-inch holes into the shed's pillars to mount the new mezzanine 2.2M high, but with Steve's wrist not too good I was doing that. Of course the drill bit jammed in my one hand above my head and twisted my wrist off! The hospital said its not broken but we're two left-handers with heavy work for this trip. Of course the promised rain this week meant most days are spent on a tractor discing up a hundred hectares in various paddocks & sowing it, then going over it with harrows.

Rob just popped by with a clamp ammeter.. the Hoonicorn 4K starter pulls 160amps initially, then drops to 100amps as it cranks. Just in case anyone was wondering... Should've done the 4AGE in the Girls KE70 too, dammit!

OK, the problem isn't the choke sticking closed. Somewhere in the carb there is fuel pissing into the motor where it shouldn't. One spot would be the needle & seat valve that sets the fuel level in the bowl. That would make it rich all the time, so what sort of L/100km are you getting? 7L/100km on a trip would be fine, maybe up to 9L/100 around town.

In '83 they changed from flat-front to slanty, I have two '83s, one of each. Basically all is different from the windscreen forward, including the radiator panel. The slanty was made into the AE71 with its 4A motor, so they are sort after for 4AGE conversions. The flat-fronts are most popular with enthusiasts, especially converting them back to chrome bumpers and 4 round headlights. They won't bolt onto slantys, although I have seen it done.

I haven't worked with 4A-c motors, except to throw them out.. but if you take the air cleaner off and look down the carb, does the choke flap open as it warms up?? I expect that the bimetallic spring closes the choke when the car is switched off, and when the ignition is on it slowly lets the choke flap open up. Look down the carb before you start the car, check the choke flap, and keep an eye on it as it warns up.