altezzaclub

Fair enough- check this topic & see what you think. Budget & planning are all !! I don't know enough about those old leaf-spring buggies to be much help, but the principles for a successful project are always the same.

Are you asking about the right-hand 14pin plug shown here??

"If we made a huge jump in climate action (whatever that means..what does it mean?), what is the worst that can happen? " Well.. The obvious one is that we might spend hundreds of billions of taxpayer money investing in stuff that has no return. That may give us an unworkable electricity grid with power so variable we have daily blackouts for a few hours here and there, like most of Africa. Of course the taxpayers don't have hundreds of billions, so the Govt will borrow it & expect the next generation to pay it back, which means the next block of Govts will just inflate the shit out of money until the debt is worthless. Its really about heading down a dead-end road. Comparable to spending Australia's energy budget just mining Bitcoin, then having everyone rush off and use something else. There is a lot of ways to throw money away, and Govts know them all. Of course we may still be whining about global warming and pouring money in when the next ice-age hits and you'll never find a politician or "influencer" who would own up to their stupidity! I'd be quite happy is there were no regulations forcing people to use renewables, and no subsidies. That way we will get new ideas that are actually economic. But instead some brainless shit on Council in Orange calling for Council to "create a market for recycling"!! That's is the epitome of throwing ratepayer's money away! We should have all that stuff running on private investment, so when enough people believe in it they will adopt it. Maybe we should be adopting one of the many newer forms of nuclear energy. Maybe we should just burn coal or gas and grab the particulates & sulphur from the exhaust, but while its politics and not economics, we can't discover the real price of energy. As for the IPCC, NONE of their predictions in the last 20 years has come true, so they just don't count!

Well, here we are in the annual fire season, and because its a drought its worse than usual. Of course all the media and Socialists (and crony Capitalists looking for Govt handouts in wind & solar!) are screaming "its global warming doing it!" No-one seems to be looking anywhere else. For example- This arrangement of the planets happens less than once in 300years. 300years ago is before the "history" they mean when they say "worst fires in history"... The sun has run of of sunspots.. It happens in 11-year cycles that grow each cycle to a maximum, then decrease each cycle to a minimum, but NOT as minimum as currently. We've been counting sunspots since the 1600s, so those who learn about them have noted how the climate is affected. The IPCC is NOT included amongst those! The sun's magnetic field usually flips every second cycle, we don't know how this will affect electronics, but our own magnetic North pole is moving towards Russia. (Of COURSE the Russians are doing it!) Others are saying the Earth is overdue for a magnetic pole flip, as has happened many times before. Even within the drought the weather has a greater chance of rain than at others. I'm a great believer in Kevin Long here in Aussie, as I was in NZ with Ken Ring. Ken reckons our forefathers used astronomy to predict the climate for generations, but when Britain was expanding their empire around the world they need weather forecasts for their ships. The invention of the barometer solved that, but is only over a week at the most, and its popularity resulted in it excluding the old methods for all Western Govts. The moon is the biggest impactor on weather. I LOVE the BOM's phantom rain, it appears a week away and gets less & less as we approach it. As people say, if they can't predict the weather a week away, how can they say what's going to happen in 50years? I say, I'll believe in their global warming crap science when they can explain how water divining works! I've seen it happen, I believe completely in it, yet no scientist can explain it... so, what else don't they know? How good are their models when they can't even explain something that has been around for tens of thousands of years? Meanwhile, we're all going to get screwed by completely ignorant politicians who are captured by big business and grandstanding to their peers, they're all trying to outdo each other as they pander to the 'woke'. It will all end badly...

Yeah, there are lot of enormous fires around, but they are on Govt land because its never looked after. The farms won't burn, the trees are in isolated pockets and the dry grass is 10mm high. There's just no soil moisture or green plants, so there's no water to absorb the heat and make it difficult to burn. Same reason the summer is early, a drought means no dew so the earth heats up more and faster each day. One more distraction I forgot about was making the tractor narrower so the rotary hoe would dig up the wheel tracks. We carefully took the umpteen hundred Kg wheels off and turned them around so the rim was outwards, but one fell over. I'm impressed with the engine lifter, I thought it would break!

Well, time flies... A couple of trips and the rally car is just like it was, although we tacked in a diagonal brace into the main hoop, not needed by CAMS but AMSAG wanted it. So... my Hoonicorn was excess with both The Girl and the wife buying new cars, so I sold that to a guy up on the Gold Coast for $3000. We drove it up to Ipswich and handed it over, then drove to my rental in Kingaroy where a big storm had blown the garden shed over a month back. It was two ordinary sheds joined end to end, and abysmally made as most these garden sheds are. Some steel from Bunnings and 250rivets sorted that out, and a couple of days later we drove back through 500km of smoke to the farm. Steve's daily, Mao, had dropped the exhaust when he was a control on an AMSAG event down on the coast, so we put that on the hoist and re-made it all. The new sliders are great for tight spots in a workshop, I just need to modify them when I get time... Then Steve decided to raise some cash by selling the Beige Bomber. It had been sold and re-bought back a few years later to a mate of his, and then it was the company car for Strathaven Organics for a year. I spent a week cleaning it up and he sold it to a guy in Sydney for $4000. From there I came home and will join Mr Rural Fireman towards the end of the month for another couple of weeks. Maybe we'll even get onto the rally car! Hopefully the fires will have burned out by then!

Same as any old motor... More air in, more air out, more fuel in and more advance to set fire to it earlier.. How much do you want to spend?? A porting job to make sure the air can flow in easily. Look at oldskewltoy's posts here and all over the web to see what he does. You don't have to do it all, just learn about which parts are important without hogging the ports out larger. Get 10 or 20thou skimmed off the head to raise the compression. A bigger cam to get top-end airflow, at the expense of low-end torque if you go big enough. A bigger carb setup to flow more fuel and air. A Weber or SUs or bike carbs.. A set of extractors and a bigger exhaust system to get the air out. A play with the timing to make sure you are getting the most out of the 98octane you will run it on. Take a read of the mods I did to The Girls KE70, simple stuff that improved it quite a bit. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

It does, if you mill enough off you'll have the rocker tip start to slide off the edge of the valve. I doubt 0.5mm will worry it, but you can check when you get it assembled. Worry about it when you're fly-cutting 1/2moons into the pistons to allow the valves to open without hitting them! Its nowhere the problem of skimming an overhead cam setup, there it upsets cam timing as well. I don't think the pushrods can be machined, I'd expect to space the rocker pedestals upwards the same amount.

Check the rocker faces where they rub on the valve top. If they get a groove worn in them by the valve then you will never be able to set the tappets accurately as the feeler gauge will go across the top of that groove. A thou or two would be fine, but otherwise you can get the rocker tip re-machined if the groove is deep. I've never had a problem with springs, keepers or collets.

Try these-

"the side filler plug whitch takes a 15/16 " or maybe a 22mm socket or wrench. " That's the problem! The skinny nut they used just rounded off, tucked up against the transmission tunnel & exhaust, and I've never got it loose since. So its drain plug and a measured amount through the gear-lever for me.

The "S" terminal on the alty needs a 12V reference, so you can run a separate wire to the S terminal, or hook it into the IG wire so turning on the key does both. You might have it wired so when you take a battery terminal off the alty loses that 12V to S, and it stops charging so the motor stops working. I can't see how, but its possible. I've never taken the battery terminal off when the 4AGE is running, maybe mine does the same...

You are right, it would do that! I usually loop the signal wire... Very good out loud thinking!

Well its definitely charging. Can you tell us which wire you used to feed power into the push-start button?? Here's the circuit I'd use. You need 12V power when the ignition is on to feed the button, so jump into the Black/Yellow wire and feed the button from that. From the button to the starter just use the B/W as factory. Any ignition powered circuit will do it, and as it only fires a relay you could use the B/Y after the 10A engine fuse, that would be safer. Either way I can't see how fitting the button would affect the charging.... I can't imagine what is making it die, maybe its a bad connection in the White wire where it joins the battery terminal. I wonder if someone changed the factory setup around the fusible links.. So the alty connects to the battery but not through the fusible link, although even then the alty charge wire should stay on the terminal when you lift it off..

Actually- how long has you owned the car and driven it?? Was everything working fine for the last 6months??

How do you know its charging?? Put a multimeter across the terminals and read the voltage. Usually 11.5 to 12V, then start it and see. It should read about 13 to 13.5volts with a few revs on the engine. There must be a wiring fault if the alty DOES work but the motor stops when you take a terminal off. The charge from the alty isn't getting to the ECU, a strange problem.

Maybe... taking the fuses & relays out and in usually scrapes the dirt away so they still get a good contact. You could check with a $10 multimeter and a spade connector to push into the slots. The top left one looks definitely rusty, can you sandpaper or scrape it clean? Can you get another one to try?

here's a wiring diagram https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0 You will have to check everything electrical and see what works and what doesn't, then see which wire powers all those that don't work. You can see the wipers and turn are fed off the BY wire, maybe that's the problem. Does the rear defog work?? That's on the same circuit. There will be a short circuit through a broken wire somewhere, that's what usually causes the fuse to blow.

Whaatt!! Get him some ol' rattletrap and make him work to buy his own in a few years! My daughter has the only new car around her, but she saved up for a few years to get it. A giant step up from a KE70. The son started with a mid-80s Pulsar and it needed a gearbox straight away. Now he really appreciates his new Fiesta. At least neither of them wrote off their first cars.

haha! Well done! We'll see what the next problem is!

I hope he's right, the missus bought one while I was away! The colour she didn't want, (black) the Km were twice what she wanted, (220,000) it was a model older than she had me look for (T30 instead of T31)... but she was determined to buy it from an over-priced dealer so she didn't get ripped off!😩 Sounds like there's a can half-full of stones attached to the fan when she starts it.. I don't want to know!

Well, if you really want to keep it, it will teach you a lot. First, get a fully charged battery. Connect up one lead and tap the other one on its terminal. If it sparks, find out what is drawing current. You could use a 12v bulb to test it, or a multimeter if it doesn't spark or is a very small spark. Get it so it doesn't use power just sitting there. If nothing is drawing power, start checking everything one at a time and make each circuit work. check all the wiring and tidy up any wires that have been fked around with. Shouldn't take you more than a month to fix...

Sell it!

You're a bit late to the party I'm afraid, the guys who did those conversions have moved on. I've done a 4AGE but I can't tell you what you need for a 3SGE or a 20valve. To get a J160 box into a KE70 we lowered the engine mounts and made the radiator front panel removable, and did beat the bell housing out a little. That's on a 4AGE with SamQ's remote shifter & water blanking parts for the back of the head. We made custom gearbox mounts. Most of it is in here- The 3SGE is a much taller engine, I obviously have one in my Altezza, and it would be a struggle to fit one in complete. I figure most guys who do it strip all the ancillaries off like power steering, aircon and the big engine mounts. That is all for the next rally car... Don't forget your 4AGE motors and the T50 boxes are all getting old and worn by now.

OK, check that the heater fan motor is working. It is on that circuit too, as are the brake lights. If it is not, find that main white wire that comes off the battery and goes through a fusible link. See if the fusible link is passing power to the white wire. If the fan motor works, find the tail light fuse and check that. Use a multimeter to see the fuse has a circuit, and use the meter to make sure 12V is coming in to the fuse. If its OK, find the tail light relay and see that it has power too. Its probably under the dash in the driver's kick panel.