altezzaclub

It does look nice.. Do you have the T engine over there? Not the K?

You'll need to find the difference between when it idles well and when it idles roughly. Is it when its cold? When its hot? After a run? Stopping at traffic lights after crawling around town? Some problems are intermittent, some permanent. The needle and seat is an intermittent one, sometimes it floods the carb and other times it is fine. Does it accelerate well once it is going? Give it a good long pull in third gear max throttle up to maybe 5500rpm and instantly put it into neutral and turn off the ignition. Then pull the spark plugs out and see what they look like. Take a photo. Next time it idles badly, turn it off & pull the plugs out again, take another photo. It may be flooding when it idles badly, so the plugs will be black, or maybe only one plug. Take the top off the air cleaner and look down the carb. Open the throttle sharply and you should see a jet of petrol from a small brass fitting down the carb throat. If this accelerator pump is not working it will hesitate under throttle. Plenty to explore.

Try the machine shop first and you can always soak it in some phosphoric acid afterwards, something like CLR scale remover. Those front holes get blocked by the gasket too, I think, to force the water to circulate around the back of the head. maybe that's a 4K and 5K difference.

The head came back for Louis' 4K. $40 to make it spotlessly clean, money well spent, and $80 to skim. Note how the mill leaves sharp clean edges everywhere, so there is no tendency for compression to tunnel out across the curved edge left by sandpaper.

Nice work!

Yeah, it will need engineering. A few years ago my KE70 4AGE cost about $800 from Ian Carpenter at Kreative Enterprises in Windsor. He was very helpful and an all-round nice guy. Most the changes you make in the way of suspension, steering & brakes need engineering, but all I changed was the motor/gearbox.

nah- I picked a cam that would retain stock valve springs, I think over 0.4" lift is when they suggest new springs. Bolting the inlet and exhaust manifolds together for the hot spot may have been the downfall of the two-piece gaskets, the different expansion may cause them to blow in the middle. It was just one of those things Toyota didn't get right. Any flat-top 81mm pistons available? I think your stock limits will be shallow-dish or deep-dish, which is another factor in compression ratios I forgot about. The dish in the piston affects the CR too, its part of the combustion chamber. So there must be two different 5K heads, one for each type of piston.

That's pretty handy, they will know all sorts of tricks & probably have cam grinds for it too. Get hold of this manifold gasket- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/27374-one-piece-manifold-gasket-who-makes-them-4k/ and port the runners out to match, you might as well do what you can while the head is off. Pull the block out and tip it over on its side then scrape all the rust and shit out of the waterways, especially around #4 cyl. It sounds like its hot where you live and I"ll bet no-one has used coolant in it for years. We had a 4K head skimmed last week for $80 I'm waiting to see what your costs!

Nah, I doubt they have a van with compression over 9.5 to 1, but see if you can find out. The 5K is 15/13 times as big as a 4K, so the combustion chamber should be about 31ccX15/13= 36cc. I think my 4K was about 31cc, I can't remember now, so you will need to buy a pipette & measure that figure to check it. Pick the compression ratio you want, work out the area of the head surface with a little graph paper, and calculate how much to skim off to get the CR you want. Note the 4K has a heart-shaped combustion surface, yours will be a circle for the first couple of mm. Your compression ratio is made up of the filling volume, (piston stroke volume)+(head gasket volume)+(combustion chamber volume) divided by the combusting volume, (head gasket volume)+(combustion chamber volume) The maths method is.. (no guarantees here!) piston area= (bore radius)X(bore radius)Xpi=4X4X3.14 =50.2SqCm Piston stroke volume= 50.2X7.3 =366.7cc Head gasket volume= 50.2X0.15 =7.5cc So you are squishing 366.7 plus 7.5 plus say 36cc of head volume all into a combusting chamber of 36+7.5cc, and the compression ratio will be- 410/43.5= 9.4 to 1 If you want 10 to 1, reduce the combusting chamber volume to 41cc. Take off the 7.5cc the head gasket occupies and you need the actual combustion chamber to be 33.5cc, so take off 2.5cc. If your head face is a circle of the bore, 50.2SqCm, reduce it by 2.5/50 or 0.5mm which is 20thou In reality I expect you'll want to skim off around that figure, but you will have to measure the combustion chamber volumes and the head surface area.

It looks like a 5K head from the way the combustion chamber is indented around its edge. I'll try to find a 4K pic for you. OK, this is a stock 4K head, it is flat across the face, although dirty, so it looks like your head would if you skimmed 2mm off it. So I'd say yours is a 5K.

Well, the workshop was humming on the next trip up. A couple of 50,000Lumen LEDs gave us general light over the whole area, and it filled with KE70s. We reckoned on a new dash cluster as we have capillary oil pressure and water temp, an ammeter and a 6" tacho... So I was cutting plastic. Cainy bought his wagon around to sort out the three 4AGE inlets he had, none of them good. This one with the side welded up and shaved became the one, even if it has TViS disconnected. So it needed a vac source sortout and some new fuel lines. Lewis was about to throw his 4K motor out and either fight a 4AGE in or just swap to another 4K. As it turned out, it just needs a head job due to a lack of skim after the last head job when it overheated. Meanwhile Steve & I couldn't get a handbrake cable setup to fit the rally car! Neither KE70, Corona or Celica hybrid made any sense, and in the end we took the last useful thing out of the parts Celica in the paddock. We just picked it up and stuck the bumper under one side, then sent Callista under it to unscrew the cable as we figured she was the most expendable and beside she wouldn't be able to lift the car back up if it fell on Steve! Next trip should see both KE70s sorted and running, and back into rally car wiring. Some side attractions like fitting the top back on the 22000L water tank and then framing over it to hold the lid in shape just never got photographed, same with the new 45deg bends in the braided brake lines. Maybe next time...

Well, what did you learn?

Banjo will know the ins and outs of matching the resistance in the meter with that in the sender.. Take the plug off and earth the wire going to the sender unit, then see if the gauge goes to full. If it does, the problem is in the sender unit. Then take the unit out and manually move it to full and see if the gauge reads full. That is the mechanical side, if the gauge reads half when you move the arm manually its an electronic problem. After reading this I bought a $50 for the KE70, and while it has a red light now, it doesn't read full when the tank is full either! When I get the time I'll do what I've just said you should do!

How is the top of the spring located in the plate? Is it flat at the top with a ground spring or a cut spring in a locator on the plate. What's happening is that the top of the spring is being forced to stay with the turret mount, so it seems the top bearing is not working or the top plate is jammed. The strut, the spring and the top mount should all rotate easily together. Got photos?

I wouldn't worry, these are old engines and all the ones I've seen show some dirt scours like that.

Grab your multimeter... Whats the voltage across the battery with everything turned off?? Disconnect the coil +ve and turn on the key, then read volts at the coil wires, not the coil. One should show 9V. Have someone turn the key to 'crank' and read the wires again while cranking. The other wire should read 12V. You could also take the ignition wire off the ballast resistor (not the one that goes ballast-to-coil) and read that with the key on, it should be 12V. Move to ohms on the meter and put the leads on battery -ve and the tappet cover. It should show less than 4ohms. You will get a low voltage reading at the coil if you have the wires on the coil and the points closed. Most the power will flow away to earth through the points and there won't be much voltage to read. If you have the circuit interrupted by having the points open or the coil -ve wire off, it should read 9V as its going the through the ballast resistor.

Well, since then its been a daily for the wife or the daughter, depending on who leaves first. However recently Mrs Altezzaclub bought an Xtrail and Miss Altezzaclub bought a new i30, which means I have an excess Altezza and Hoonicorn... so its up for sale for around $3300. I can run it anywhere from Bathurst to Armidale to meet someone, it just has to be on my regular trips up and down. Its completely reliable and rego'd to next June.

best one I know of- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/54227-the-rwd-2az-fe-thread/?tab=comments#comment-549475

Hell yes! Sort that out first, its probably behind all the problems you're trying to solve!

Rattles in the tappets, but otherwise it sounds fine... has it changed from what it was?

For any old car, take the dizzy cap off and turn the motor by hand a little to see which way the rotor turns. You'll find K motors turn clockwise. The firing order is 1342, only a few very odd engines use 1243, its unbalanced. Usually #1 is closest to the engine and at the front, so that lead is shortest, but when the dizzy is out it can be put back in any way. So- turn the motor by hand until the rubbing block of the points is right on top of a dizzy shaft shoulder. That is max points opening. Check the points gap with feeler gauges and get them to about 0.4-0.5mm. When the motor runs pistons 1 & 4 come up together, then 2 & 3 come up together. You need to have #1 on its firing stroke and #4 on its exhaust stroke for this next bit. Take the plugs out first. Then take off the oil filler cap and turn the motor watching the rockers at the front of the motor under the oil cap. You'll see #1 inlet rocker there, its in front of the oil filler cap and the exhaust rocker is wayyy at the front. When the crank comes up to top dead center that rocker will close and be still for the firing stroke, or moving and opening as the crank goes past TDC on the exhaust stroke. Both strokes have the same look on the crank pulley, which is why so many people set #4 by mistake. Watch the rocker to work out if it is #1 cyl firing or #1 cyl on exhaust. You will want #1 to be firing, so the rocker will close at 1/4 before TDC and stay closed as the crank goes past TDC. If it is moving, then the next time the crank comes to TDC will be firing. Then turn the crank to 10deg BTDC on the firing stroke, you'll see it on the cam cover and there's a groove on the back edge of the crank pulley that goes right past it. That's when the spark plug will fire. With the crank at 10deg, you want the points to be just opening, so now you turn the distributor until the rubbing block is just touching the start of a dizzy shaft shoulder. That's why you need to know it turns clockwise, the rubbing block has to be on the clockwise side of the shaft shoulder. Turn the key onto 'ignition' and it will spark just as the points open, you turn the dizzy back and forth a little until it just sparks and that's where you lock the dizzy. That's fine for running the motor, you can check it with a timing light later, but I find doing it by hand is just as good. Whatever plug lead the rotor points to when you put it back on is now #1. The other 3 leads follow clockwise, 3 then 4 then 2. You can change which lead is #1 by taking the dizzy out and turning it around so different teeth mesh on the cam. 17 is a great age to learn about cars, you'll be an expert by your mid-20s and you can carry the knowledge forward when we're all dead in 20years!

I thought they just allowed an angle difference between the column and the box, like a cheap UJ for small angles. They will take vibration out of the steering wheel, and allow an angle to develop between the box and the column in a crash, but they don't stop the column coming upwards and smacking you in the face like the sliding joint does. The KE70's UJ allows a much sharper angle in the steering shaft so the rack can be mounted further back with the same steering column angle, otherwise we'd be driving buses. Knock one up out of any plate lying around and try it. If there is an angle change, as seen from the side, between the column and the box shaft then the plate will flex as it turns, and the steering will get tight and loose as it turns. If they are parallel then a solid one will be fine. (We do have random racks and columns lying in cars out in the paddock...)

What do you want it to end up as? Would it include better handling with sway bar mods, a camber change at the front and more castor to get more turn-in? Would it include more power? The 4AGE must fit in there easily, but if not you're a bit limited by the space. Changing the carb would need something shorter than a Weber DCOE, and finding a hot cam would be hard I expect. Bike carbs and a custom cam cut with a skimmed head and a clean-up of the ports would liven it up, but it would be a lot of money for not a lot of gain compared to a 4AGE. Brisbane will just rust it out before its much older, so rustproof it carefully & keep it clean and polished. Buy another car later as a daily and pull the '82 out for Toyota meetings.

Ok. The oil problem should'nt affect the carb unless you had the carb or manifolds off the head & ended up with an air leak in there now. Hopefully you've sorted the oil leaks & someone can sort the carb for it. Nice car in the background..... That shouldn't need the bonnet up!

Convert to rack!!!! ..or maybe a rack UJ. Nah, they're twice the price! Rob, I've never even heard of someone replacing one of these. They have to be flexible as the angle changes as the turn. Do you want a used one? cheers