altezzaclub

Check the rocker faces where they rub on the valve top. If they get a groove worn in them by the valve then you will never be able to set the tappets accurately as the feeler gauge will go across the top of that groove. A thou or two would be fine, but otherwise you can get the rocker tip re-machined if the groove is deep. I've never had a problem with springs, keepers or collets.

Try these-

"the side filler plug whitch takes a 15/16 " or maybe a 22mm socket or wrench. " That's the problem! The skinny nut they used just rounded off, tucked up against the transmission tunnel & exhaust, and I've never got it loose since. So its drain plug and a measured amount through the gear-lever for me.

The "S" terminal on the alty needs a 12V reference, so you can run a separate wire to the S terminal, or hook it into the IG wire so turning on the key does both. You might have it wired so when you take a battery terminal off the alty loses that 12V to S, and it stops charging so the motor stops working. I can't see how, but its possible. I've never taken the battery terminal off when the 4AGE is running, maybe mine does the same...

You are right, it would do that! I usually loop the signal wire... Very good out loud thinking!

Well its definitely charging. Can you tell us which wire you used to feed power into the push-start button?? Here's the circuit I'd use. You need 12V power when the ignition is on to feed the button, so jump into the Black/Yellow wire and feed the button from that. From the button to the starter just use the B/W as factory. Any ignition powered circuit will do it, and as it only fires a relay you could use the B/Y after the 10A engine fuse, that would be safer. Either way I can't see how fitting the button would affect the charging.... I can't imagine what is making it die, maybe its a bad connection in the White wire where it joins the battery terminal. I wonder if someone changed the factory setup around the fusible links.. So the alty connects to the battery but not through the fusible link, although even then the alty charge wire should stay on the terminal when you lift it off..

Actually- how long has you owned the car and driven it?? Was everything working fine for the last 6months??

How do you know its charging?? Put a multimeter across the terminals and read the voltage. Usually 11.5 to 12V, then start it and see. It should read about 13 to 13.5volts with a few revs on the engine. There must be a wiring fault if the alty DOES work but the motor stops when you take a terminal off. The charge from the alty isn't getting to the ECU, a strange problem.

Maybe... taking the fuses & relays out and in usually scrapes the dirt away so they still get a good contact. You could check with a $10 multimeter and a spade connector to push into the slots. The top left one looks definitely rusty, can you sandpaper or scrape it clean? Can you get another one to try?

here's a wiring diagram https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0 You will have to check everything electrical and see what works and what doesn't, then see which wire powers all those that don't work. You can see the wipers and turn are fed off the BY wire, maybe that's the problem. Does the rear defog work?? That's on the same circuit. There will be a short circuit through a broken wire somewhere, that's what usually causes the fuse to blow.

Whaatt!! Get him some ol' rattletrap and make him work to buy his own in a few years! My daughter has the only new car around her, but she saved up for a few years to get it. A giant step up from a KE70. The son started with a mid-80s Pulsar and it needed a gearbox straight away. Now he really appreciates his new Fiesta. At least neither of them wrote off their first cars.

haha! Well done! We'll see what the next problem is!

I hope he's right, the missus bought one while I was away! The colour she didn't want, (black) the Km were twice what she wanted, (220,000) it was a model older than she had me look for (T30 instead of T31)... but she was determined to buy it from an over-priced dealer so she didn't get ripped off!😩 Sounds like there's a can half-full of stones attached to the fan when she starts it.. I don't want to know!

Well, if you really want to keep it, it will teach you a lot. First, get a fully charged battery. Connect up one lead and tap the other one on its terminal. If it sparks, find out what is drawing current. You could use a 12v bulb to test it, or a multimeter if it doesn't spark or is a very small spark. Get it so it doesn't use power just sitting there. If nothing is drawing power, start checking everything one at a time and make each circuit work. check all the wiring and tidy up any wires that have been fked around with. Shouldn't take you more than a month to fix...

Sell it!

You're a bit late to the party I'm afraid, the guys who did those conversions have moved on. I've done a 4AGE but I can't tell you what you need for a 3SGE or a 20valve. To get a J160 box into a KE70 we lowered the engine mounts and made the radiator front panel removable, and did beat the bell housing out a little. That's on a 4AGE with SamQ's remote shifter & water blanking parts for the back of the head. We made custom gearbox mounts. Most of it is in here- The 3SGE is a much taller engine, I obviously have one in my Altezza, and it would be a struggle to fit one in complete. I figure most guys who do it strip all the ancillaries off like power steering, aircon and the big engine mounts. That is all for the next rally car... Don't forget your 4AGE motors and the T50 boxes are all getting old and worn by now.

OK, check that the heater fan motor is working. It is on that circuit too, as are the brake lights. If it is not, find that main white wire that comes off the battery and goes through a fusible link. See if the fusible link is passing power to the white wire. If the fan motor works, find the tail light fuse and check that. Use a multimeter to see the fuse has a circuit, and use the meter to make sure 12V is coming in to the fuse. If its OK, find the tail light relay and see that it has power too. Its probably under the dash in the driver's kick panel.

" Iv got the timing set now still wouldn’t start I had a guy come have a look and he said my carb was stuffed the two jets are throwing way too much fuel in there so it flooding is there a way too fix that issue " What did you do about the carb jets?? " I’ve tried turning the dizzy side too side while giving it a bit off gas and it still does it just trial and error at the moment. " Did the guy who looked at it have a timing light?? ..or was it "That's about right, it should run" Today's problems.. What is "first click"?? Is that ACC (accessories) on the key? or is it first click of the light switch, so it turns on side-lights? The general circuit is here, I expect when they say "meter" they mean the dash lights. You can see what else should come on all at once, the ashtray etc, so see if it is just the instrument cluster not working, or all those lights circled in red. That will give you a clue where the problem is. " and won’t turn over it’s completely dead " That's why I wondered if "first click" was on the key.. So is it permanently dead and won't turn over? That is simple to solve, as only one wire goes to the starter motor. Just pull it off the starter solenoid, its black and white, and see if it has 12V with a multimeter when you crank the car.

"the car wont idle without the choke all the way out when its cold " Could be normal or a bit lean, it is a little adjustable. " once its warm it idles fine " That's good, mine is like that. " driving for a little while it idles rough and sometimes shuts off when i get off the freeway or come to a stop at a traffic light " ...and mine does that too! Once it is really warmed up the idle drops even more and can die when I brake to a stop. If I hold the throttle on a whisker it stabilizes and idles OK. Well, try the plug check when it dies, that might tell you if its dying from being lean or being rich.

Well, another couple of trips up and back, maybe its three now... 1200Km each trip. No problems at all anyway. I fitted a new Ebay fuel sender unit as my modified red light didn't seem to work. or maybe it was too dim.. Anyway, the new red light came on at 1/4 full, so I bent the arm to make empty, 'Empty'. ...and naturally now when it is full it only shows half! So there is a bit of work to do with those Ebay units to make them work! Today the light came on about 20km from home, and when I filled the tank it took 40L, so there was more than 10L left when the light came on.

It does look nice.. Do you have the T engine over there? Not the K?

You'll need to find the difference between when it idles well and when it idles roughly. Is it when its cold? When its hot? After a run? Stopping at traffic lights after crawling around town? Some problems are intermittent, some permanent. The needle and seat is an intermittent one, sometimes it floods the carb and other times it is fine. Does it accelerate well once it is going? Give it a good long pull in third gear max throttle up to maybe 5500rpm and instantly put it into neutral and turn off the ignition. Then pull the spark plugs out and see what they look like. Take a photo. Next time it idles badly, turn it off & pull the plugs out again, take another photo. It may be flooding when it idles badly, so the plugs will be black, or maybe only one plug. Take the top off the air cleaner and look down the carb. Open the throttle sharply and you should see a jet of petrol from a small brass fitting down the carb throat. If this accelerator pump is not working it will hesitate under throttle. Plenty to explore.

Try the machine shop first and you can always soak it in some phosphoric acid afterwards, something like CLR scale remover. Those front holes get blocked by the gasket too, I think, to force the water to circulate around the back of the head. maybe that's a 4K and 5K difference.

The head came back for Louis' 4K. $40 to make it spotlessly clean, money well spent, and $80 to skim. Note how the mill leaves sharp clean edges everywhere, so there is no tendency for compression to tunnel out across the curved edge left by sandpaper.