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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/11/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hi over here, long time no see, I'm back with another car. I already was here but no pictures are left on the old threads Many moons ago I had this KE71 That after a lot of hardwork came out looking like this And after a while without a RWD Corolla (I had an AE101 Corolla) I came across this, and I'm the proud owner of an 1973 Toyota Corolla, also known as mighty TE27. As a bit of history, the Toyota dealer for Uruguay is AYAX and it didn't import any Toyota until the 1980's so anything before that is very strange, so when I came across a sale post that reads "Toyota Corolla 1973" I had to have it, so I went to see the car, this are the first pictures I took... the previous owner fidieling with the engine interior shot After working for a while under the rain we made the engine idle and sort of run as it should, quite a feat considering that the car haven't been started for almost 5 years, after it heat up a little and it was not dying, we took it for a "test drive" given it very sorry state the car run great, much better than what one would thing after those pictures, and with that the deal was made After almost a month of back and forth with the notary, all the paperwork came clear (very important and tedious step in my country) the car was legally mine, and so the journey begins. As you can see the car is very very very (did I mentioned very) rusted, but is the only one that I know of in my country so I will try to do my best to restore it to it's former glory. I have many pictures to update this thread so I will try to do my best.
  2. 2 points
    Don't over think it. whatever the manual says grade wise, and whatever brand name oil is on special at the time. and change it every 6000ish km. For years i bought penrite oil. for no other reason than Dad always bought Penrite oil. And he bought Penrite cause his dad bought penrite oil. Then one day i bought shell or something cheap (but something brand name ish, around the $30 mark, not $60 penrite). And my engine didn't explode. So i kept buying the cheap oil. Years later, no engine explosions and plenty of spare cash.
  3. 2 points
    I did most of the metal work and did, I do not have a paint booth and i'm not very good with painting so i decided to take it to a shop to get painted. So far its not looking too bad.
  4. 2 points
    Finally more of the car started to take shape again. Lots of hammering and heating and forming and welding! But it finally started to look like a car again rather than swisschess.
  5. 2 points
    I have had to butcher up the dash in order to fit back in around the cage, the Carlos bars have made it really hard to get it back in. It has to wedge between that and the A pillar bar for to fit in, gonna be a nightmare to fit it in without scratching the cage up once it's painted, oh well it's a race car anyway!!
  6. 2 points
    Be different, go bmw M44 from an E36 bmw! all alloy, 1.9L and sporty. and made up to 2001. Yes im a bmw fan boy now. but seriously look it up, dirty cheap, plentiful and 103kw and 180nm!
  7. 2 points
    Mixing 28/28 and 28/32 is possible, but requires both lower and upper bodies. It also isn't an straight up bolt-on thing to do... I just assembled mine with 28/32 throats and butterflys and swapped the mechanical linkage so the secondary is also mechanical instead of the vacuum actuator. I used 170 secondary, 116 main, 51 idle and 60 size power valve. The venturis are also different in the 28/32 version. Don't know yet how this will run because the engine is still in parts. I had to modify the secondary shaft to adapt the bigger butterfly and also shorten it, because the carb body differs how the shaft is going through the other side. Had to make a fixture for the secondary return spring also. There's also no spot for the velocity flap in the secondary side in the bigger throat carb body, but at least the previous carb ran perfectly with the flap locked open all the time. Unfortunately it's winter time here in Finland, so can't test it out until late April. I did this upgrade since my 4K is being worked on. Honed, new pistons, 270deg cam with 10.5mm valve lift, 4-2-1 extractors, 11:1 compression to suit the cam, lightened flywheel, balanced everything, extensive head work done, pistons protruding block 0,3mm (~1mm quench clearance) etc.
  8. 1 point
    Hi Hayden, I went & checked this morning, to make sure I'm not advising you some untruths. I still had my olde auto shifter in the garage, complete with the lead & plug. I buzzed out the connections & confirmed the following. Assuming Toyota kept the same wiring colour codes in your particular model Rolla, the white socket is a 4 way. 1. There are two wires that are red. One is red with a white stripe, & the other a red wire with a blue stripe. These two wires close a switch, when the auto changer is placed in "Reverse". These two corresponding wires in your loom under the dash, just to the RHS of the console, should be connected to the reversing switch in the manual gearbox. 2. There are two wires that are black. One is black with a white stripe, & the other is just fully black. These two wires close a switch, when the auto changer is in "Neutral", which allows the car to be started. These two corresponding wires in your loom under the dash, should be shorted together. This should solve your problems. Let us know how you go. There are two other "single" wires coming out from the auto changer in these pics above. One is red with a black stripe, & the other a white with a black stripe. Theses are purely for powering the light behind the auto changer, when driving at night. The corresponding ones under the dash, are basically the same circuit as your dash lights. You will not need to use these. I know they are "sockets", under the dash, but just tape them up, so they don't short against chassis anywhere. Cheers Banjo
  9. 1 point
    And until next time my favorite photo of this car...
  10. 1 point
    It really does look lovely.. What diff are you planning? What gearbox?? What clutch? You out of the comfort zone for both 4AG and 3SG with 250bhp, so I don't see the T50 gearbox or T-series diff taking it. The J160 will last a while, but not forever. The J160 Altezza box is bulky, although we haven't tried to fit it to the KE70 yet & I expect some panelbeating will be needed. The shifter tower is tall and long, so cutting the tunnel ahead of the gearlever is expected. There are a couple of adapter plates to put the J160 onto the 4AGZE, but simpler would be to leave it on a 3SGE. That would solve the clutch problem too. However that's a very tall motor, so you might run into fitment problems. Then again, the 4AGZE drops straight onto your crossmember, I'm pretty sure the 3S wont. The 3SGE is all revs, nothing much happens until 4000rpm plus, so I expect the 4AG to be more realistic to daily. You should get more mid-range torque from a turbo 1.6L to overtake the 2L 3S, although the 3S will be easier to set up and tune. In the end it will be more daily than track car, so it needs to be pleasant to drive. I dunno, there are pros and cons on both sides, you'll have to sharpen the focus on what you want the car to do and how much work each option will take. Talk to TRD KE70 about the rally car they built, they will know what gear you need like a clutch & diff to fit a 4AGE with a J160..
  11. 1 point
    I’ve finally finished the thermo-fan conversion, where I used a Toyota Echo aluminium radiator & fan assembly. I wired it up with a relay, & a Tridon TSF106 thermo-Switch with a 90 Off / 95 On, switching points. The results have been amazing. It has changed the KE30 driving experience dramatically. As others have noted, the first thing you notice is how quiet the car is. I had no idea, the old plastic fan there continually thrashing at the air, created so much noise. I also fitted a Hi Flow Tridon thermostat, P/N TT2040-180, which according to the specs, allows about 30% more flow, when fully open. It controls over the range of 82 – 87 deg C. The modification was dead easy, & it was if the Echo radiator was made for the KE30. The following pics give a good indication of how easy it was. Believe it or not, I only drilled one hole in the body for the threaded rod for the radiator hold-down clamp. If anyone wants to do this mod to their Rolla, I’m only too happy to offer specific assistance, or more detailed pics of the mods. Even the “plumbing was relatively easy. I was able to use another KE30 lower radiator hose, & the existing upper Echo radiator hose, to connect to the radiator to the KE30. Even the tube to take the radiator water to the water pump, was easily fashioned from a discarded S.S. vacuum cleaner tube/handle. The Echo radiator fan motor draws about 7-8 amperes, & should be fused separately, directly from the battery. The control relay should also be fused separately, & not supplied by the ignition switch, so that the fan can run on, after the engine has been switched off. I also added a 3 position (ON-OFF-ON) switch, so control of the thermostatic control of the fan could be overridden, either ON, or OFF. An LED indicator next to the switch, indicates when the fan is on. I also sent this signal to the data logger, measuring & recording various temperatures, to indicate when the fan is on. The most amazing & surprisingly advantage of the mod, was the extra power that the engine displayed. I had no idea, how much power, the engine driven fan, continually drags from the motor. The Echo aluminium radiator, is so much more efficient in removing heat from the coolant, than the original KE30 unit. Altezzaclub, has continually said that his thermo-fan, does come on much at all. Mine did not come on at all, whilst driving. Admittedly the temperature here are around 30 deg C at the moment, so I expect, that may change at higher ambient temperatures, and more city stop/start driving. The graphs indicate that during an hour of driving, the fan only came on twice for a total of 90 seconds. The first fan operation, was where I stopped to let my daughter out of the car, at the bus station, for a couple of minutes, when I did not turn off the engine. It ran for 30 seconds, then switched off, as soon as the car started moving. The second fan operation, was when I got home, & parked the car. I got out, locked the car, & walked away, only to hear the fan start up, about 1 minute after the car stopped. I hung around, to see how long it over ran. In 60 seconds it shut down. I will continue to monitor its performance & make some small tweeks. I still have to replumb the rear head return line to the top of the radiator, under the thermostat, instead of the water pump inlet. Although rear & front of head coolant temps are within about 3 deg C of each other, I think, this can be made even closer, by fitting a head gasket with no “block to head”, coolant holes blocked, & by decreasing the flow out through the front of the head, which will increase flow to the rear. I’ll take my KE30 for a good long country run in the next few weeks, & it will be interesting, to see what difference it makes to fuel consumption, as well the above mentioned benefits. P.S. I was a bit concerned that anyone doing this mod, might also have to upgrade their alternator, if it was the original Rolla 35-40A one. I wasn’t personally worried, as I upgraded to an 85A alternator a couple of years ago, which is also a fantastic mod with benefits. However, as the radiatior electric fan rarely comes on, so this really isn’t an issue. I also had on my list, to design & fit a fan run on, cut out timer, so that the fan cannot accidentally run continually, & flatten the battery. I probably still will, but it is really not going to be an operational issue. Cheers Banjo
  12. 1 point
    Sounds like you are having some success. Years and Years ago when i installed that 4age of i bought off you into my ke70 beast, I had Brad around to wire it up and the bloody thing would not run right, missing and carrying on wouldnt even free rev. wouldnt do anything. At my whits end i unplgged the TPS.....ran perfect. Threw a spare TPS on i had and all was good. . Seems both the oem ecu and your adaptronic do strange things when given a TPS signal they dont understand.
  13. 1 point
    Yerp. That is dedication. I like the actual painting, but holy moly i hate panel prep. Good on you for your persistence.
  14. 1 point
    Good work mate. Looking forward to seeing out on the roads soon. We might have to rouse up a few Rollas for an inauguration cruise for you haha
  15. 1 point
    Do_eet. We all love to hate, but hey a project is a project. Get the welder out:D
  16. 1 point
    Some stuff has actually been happening....... Te27 Pedal box all painted and re assembled Got some wheels - 14x6 SSR Mesh. I need it on wheels for the panelbeater so these are good placeholders until they get a refurb or something else could pop up. The lips are a bit scuffed and one is a bit bent, but they'll be getting widened once the car is done if I use them. Jig made! It's a bit rudimentary and the welds are hideous but the Leaf Spring perches in pretty much the exact right space - tape measure measurements agree with the chassis repair manual. Just need to make a little bracket to keep the face at exactly 90 degrees, but after that everything is you see is ready for some professional cutting and welding. Also had a big stash of bits arrive ready for all the reassembly. All genuine Toyota except for the eBay bushes....didnt really want to go down the nolathane/urethane etc path. Included with all the bearings and shims etc were 2 little ae86 pedal cushions.....I took a gamble to see if they would fit my te27 pedal box....ah yesssss. OCD satisfied. Before.... After.......perfik
  17. 1 point
    Hi Keith, Did a bit of research, on suitable fan sizes that would suit the standard KE radiator, but the answer was right under my nose. I bought my daughter a 2004 Echo last year, & I went out and measured it's radiator & fan up this morning, & it is almost perfect. It's outside frame couling/shroud, is within a cm of the KE radiator core dimensions, in both directions. If anyone has utilised an Echo fan on a KE sucessfully, please give me a yell. I will get hold of one, & adapt it, using a spare radiator I have in the shed, then pop it in one weekend. On paper, it should be an easy & clean swap. I'll post a pic on here, when it is done, after which I'll do some temperature data logging exercises, with multiple temp points, to see exactly how well it performs. Cheers Banjo
  18. 1 point
    Thanks mate, We went with 2pack in the end. Yes the prep seemed as though it would never end.. though it finally has. I'm very impatient to put it back together right now but it needs the 1500 grit treatment and polish first.. I'm certainly hoping to be rolling soon! Itching to get my new wheels on to see how they look with the paint!
  19. 1 point
    I got a headache trying to read that!! Most engine conversions require a similar amount of work and mucking around in small KE20 engine bay and is going to require dollars to do it properly, if you have the cash go 3sge if you are set on a Toyota motor. More hp, more torque depending on which version you go for and it would like to rev more than a 22re. 4age would be the simple choice.
  20. 1 point
    Low budget + easy + KE30 = 5K. Noticable increase in torque and it is a bolt in
  21. 1 point
    I'd be willing to have a look. I'm living in Cranny south atm. Do you have a Gregory's manual? I may have one, I'll have a look. I'll pm you with contact details tomorrow. Stu.
  22. 1 point
    A quick update, though not a lot has happened Sprinter-wise. There is currently TWO spots on the car that need to be sanded, before the entire car can be masked, and sprayed. I get my license back on boxing day, so I also scored a cheap Hilux! Got myself a 1983 single cab LN50(?), manual SR5 with an 18R... May or may not have become an accidental project in itself. Has a few small issues but for the price I paid I s'pose I can't expect it to be immaculate. just some small electrical trouble with the battery not charging. Have replaced the alternator, regulator may be next... testing out a few things first with my stepdad. Also, In some other good news; My trial period at my new job has ended, and they have decided to put me on as a trainee for 2018 in Cert II automotive, as a technician at Co-op Toyota in Hobart. Oh what a feeling!!! So, starting my new job on the 15th of January, about a week and a half before my eighteenth birthday. Should make the whole "I can't do up my car because no money" situation a bit less so. Yet again my phone is having trouble with the photos. Though it worked last time. It is what it is guys haha
  23. 1 point
    Stewart Reid takes us for a tour around this incredible 80’s icon the Group B metro rally car at SR Automotive thanks to our friends at Shell Helix. Check out Shell V-Power Racing Team’s Facebook page for the latest updates and news.
  24. 1 point
    Well, another trip up there.. This time the caravan was in place so we organised some poly pipe for drainage.. Except the ground is like rock and it will need digging in after some rain! We swiped a pump off a well that hadn't been used for years and hooked that up to a tank, so the van has pressurised water and someday a drainage system! A complicated brotherly swap saw us get the red AE71 back. Steve's little bro dailyed on the 4AC and he cut the rust out of the boot area, but then found other stuff to do. Into the shed with the other dozen KE70s! We needed to paint the van door before it rotted out, so we hung a temporary curtain over the doorway. Now, that morning we'd driven about the paddocks in Mao to see how many calfs had been born, and when we saw one lying flat on the ground we drove over. The one beside it got up and moved away, but this little white one stayed dead still until Steve got out and nudged it. Then, POW! it was off and running! We let it go while we checked the rest, & assumed it got back to Mum. That night stacks of moths slipped in around the tarp until Steve couldn't stand it and went to bed, listening to the wind bang the alloy bar on the awning against the van. Late at night there's an enormous "MOOO.. " at the door, so he staggers up to get a torch and there's the white calf.. Of course it took one look, realised "Arrgh, there's the human who wants to eat me", and POW, it was off again! Like a good farmer he found his shoes and some rope, and went off across the paddocks to one-handedly lasso the calf then drag it back to the right paddock half a Km away! Life's never dull at Woolshed rallying!
  25. 1 point
    Very cool, watch out for the more power bug, it bites hard and the ol rotarys like to feed on wallets by the dozen lol How did you go about raising the tunnel? another diff alternative is a shortened r31 skyline borg warner, pcd will match your ke70 front swap and 14" wheels will fit over the disk brakes, they have 9" size axles and with a mini or full spool they are pretty tough.