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Hi Michalis, It's not too hard, as your olde 30A alternator (first picture) & the newer 40A alternator are both designed for an external voltage regulator. Both have the exact same connections, just in different places. So the top picture You depicted, is a 3 wire plug connection, with 3 wires, The second picture also has F, N, & Earth point, except it does accept the plug on your harness. You will have to cut the plug off the harness, & connect the three wires, to the corresponding three (3) points on your replacement alternator, marked F, N, & E. The last connection, is the +ve or "battery" wire, which will be the thickest of the cables, On your olde original alternator, there is a big "B" for battery, moulded into the alternator aluminium casing, right next to the terminal. On your replacement alternator, there is also a big "B"; moulded into the aluminium case. Hope that assists. Cheers Banjo

Some additional photos.

This video, will take You 24 minutes to watch. Do Not turn it off, until the very end. No, It's not an announcement that Toyota is to reintroduce the 4K engine to it's current line up ! However, I'm sure You will come away from it, with a whole new perspective, if You were one; that believed; that all us, would be driving electric cars, by the end of this decade. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WNz1Hru_9I Enjoy ! Cheers Banjo

" the ICV is stuck open and squirting carb cleaner into the throttle body hole alone will not always free it. Unplug the cable to the ICV, undo the screws holding the electronic device to the body. Once removed see if you can spin the electromagnetic actuator on the body back and forth freely, if not that is the problem. To sort it remove the middle hose below, not the water hoses, then place your finger over the hose outlet whilst filling the hole in the throttle body with carb cleaner, this will ensure it is flooded with cleaner and not simply draining down where the hose was connected. Keep the fluid in there for ten mins whilst trying to rotate the actuator until it is freely moving then reassemble. This problem not only occurs due to gunge but also if laid up for a long period when oxidisation can seize the shaft, could also by why used parts often do not solve the problem as they have been laying around unused." Give it a go... I found it on a Cressida a few years ago.

I'm using BCRacing coilovers from Justjap in Sydney, recently fitted them to my KE70. You cut the strut leg near the bottom and weld the coilovers onto it. so you get the large diameter shock tube with a stock hub. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page/16/#comments You might get weld-on adjustable spring bases too, but then you're limited to the stock tube diameter. Cheapest is to cut the spring base off and weld it back on 20mm lower.. but you're still stuck with the same diameter strut tube and hence crappy shock options.

"I picked up some stepped flange dies" Aren't they clever! We use dimple dies a lot for the gussets and panels in roll cages, they make the same shape using a press, and they take the flex out of a flat panel.

Welcome aboard ! I hope we can assist You; & I think we can; because your problem is a common one, when auto transmissions, are replaced with a manual gearbox.. The manual gearbox has no interaction with ignition system, but the auto transmission does. The auto transmission has an interlock contact, which only allows you start the engine, when it is not in drive. You will have place a bridge, or connect these two wires together permanently, so that your engine will start. There is a thread on this forum about it, & I'll look it up, & place a link in my reply here to you. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58879-how-to-convert-an-auto-to-a-manual-ke70/#comment-590797 Alternatively, you can take the "earth/ground" side wire off the start relay, & connect it permanently to the chassis. The start relay, is commonly down on the chassis rail, in the engine bay; directly below the carby. Cheers Banjo

Good to see you've still got it. I hope life is treating you well up north:)

She is still soooo pretty....looking forward to the engine build

That link doesn't work for me.. I could probably score you a set at the local wrecker, but they will be old, rusty and probably seized... You'd be better off to rebuild your own. I've just bought these for my KE70, they'll be fitted over the Christmas break. The quality is superb! https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/corolla-ke30-big-brake-kit/ The Dynalytes fit on 13" wheels, the bigger Dynapro calipers need 14".

Hi Michalis, & welcome aboard Rollaclub ! There are a lot of things on a car, that if they break down; don't stop You from getting from point "A" to point "B". Windscreen wipers, headlights, a horn; or even an reverse gear; don't have You broken down on the side of the road, & isolated, & going nowhere. However, the engine is paramount; closely followed by the alternator. Even with a fully charged battery, if the alternator fails; it won't be that long, before the engine comes to a stop, on the side of the road. The "electrical loads" on a battery, have only increased, over the years, as we add more & more electrically powered devices & gadgets to our cars. There are ways, in which You can decrease the electrical load on your car, by say . . . . . "converting all light bulbs to LED ones". I did this in the past couple of years, & it was a really good upgrade. Brighter lights; less voltage drops; & lower power consumed. When our Corollas were first built, the alternators fitted were pretty standard, & produced 30-35A maximum, at their output terminals. Invariably, the early ones had an external "voltage regulator", that consisted of relays that vibrated to produce an excitation current to the alternator. Later ones, like the Bosch one, you imaged; had a solid state regulator, built into alternator body, & very easily replaced. Alternators have improved dramatically over the last decade or so, & alternators of similar size, to the ones You depict, can now produce outputs of 80-120 amperes. I purchased an alternator on line, that was cheaper than an new replacement, exactly the same as the original fitted to the car. It produces 120 amperes output max. 120 Ampere rated alternator fitted to my 5K engine It was the best upgrade I've done, of recent years. The single biggest wearing item, in the alternators, You've depicted is the commutator. These wear & get "out of round", & result in more rapid wear of the carbon brushes. I would strongly suggest opening the alternator up, & inspection, commutator & brushes, before fitting a second hand unit to your car. Another alternative, is to find a second hand alternator, with greater output, that will fit. Years ago, I purchased a reconditioned alternator, from a Toyota Hilux utility, that produced about 65 amperes max. Off memory, it only requires a couple of washers, on the mounting bracket bolt, so that the pulley at the front lined up perfectly. Hope that these suggestions assist. Good Luck ! Cheers Banjo

Check out the BCRacing coilovers at Justjap, and Manon Racing brakes in NZ. BCR have coilover kits that get welded into your strut base, and kits complete with a stub axle. Manon do brake kits for 13" and 14" wheels with Wilwood calipers. I'm organising both for my KE70, but you may find gear that will fit. PerformanceSuspension as PSR are also local and have a wider range of springs for their sets. They do XYZ shocks with them.

I'd suggest having a good read through the Rollaclub website, & you'll find a wealth of suggestions, & experiences of others, including myself, going back many years. I just popped in KE30 front brake upgrade, into the search box at the very top, of this page, & it found 37131 references, & 1486 pages, where this subject was covered or canvased. Good Reading ! Cheers Banjo

"makes one click noise and nothing else. " Often a symptom of a worn ring-gear/starter gear and a run-down battery. The motor usually stops in the same position so a few teeth on the ring gear get worn out and the starter gear jams as it engages. One click and nothing.. You've solved the battery being flat by now, & the other is as you said, the solenoid contacts are burned away. Check the compression/spark as Banjo said and tow start it in third gear! So long as you can get red ignition lights it will run... ah wait, it might be an auto... That wouldn't work for the worst possible Corolla I can imagine, a 3K with a crappy GM 3-speed auto! 'Don't expect much if you can smell old fuel, it will need a general cleanup to run nicely.

Welcome aboard ! How long has this KE30 been sitting in this yard ? If it has been a long time, & the engines condition, is unknown; then there are several things You should do before trying to start it. The first thing before even trying to start it, is to remove all spark plugs, & pour a little light oil, into each spark plug hole. Let it settle for fifteen minutes, so the light oil, can seep down through the rings, & wet the lower bore. Make sure there is oil in the sump, but if it looks old & very thick, then change the oil, & oil filter. Then take a socket & bar, & place on the crankshaft pulley bolt head at the front of the engine, & see if the engine turns over easily, clockwise, with no spark plugs inserted; which means there will be no compression. If that all works so far, then hook up a battery, & turn the engine over with the starter motor. If the engine spins freely, then there are two other things You need, which is fuel & ignition. Undo the fuel line & turn the engine over with the starter motor, & ensure fuel is being sucked up from the fuel tank, at the rear. Likewise, Hook a spark plug up to the output of the ignition coil, & earth the spark plug body, & check there is a spark across the spark plug. If all good for fuel & spark, then replace all spark plugs & leads, & try to start it. However, before you try starting it, ensure the air filter is not blocked. If the air filter is in questionable shape, then remove it altogether, just for the first start. Let us know how You fare, or whether You get stuck, anywhere, along the way. Cheers Banjo

Just watched Mr. Papadakis' video on his TA22 restoration. Love his videos ❤️ Says he used some Holley period-look-but-LED headlight replacements, much safer and they look great Fairly sure they're smaller diameter than KE26 headlights but I imagine they have other sizes

I'm not that keen to pull mine out to photograph it, but as I remember it the plugs in there are carefully shaped to only go in one place. Some plugs are not used at all and just hang there. "I can hear my fuel pump going but no starter click or crank at all - definitely not a dead starter. " That circuit is purely KE70 chassis, so it should be as it was with the 4K. One wire from the key to the solenoid. Was it an auto KE70 that you put a 4AGE into? That's the most likely issue, the 'neutral position' cutout on the tunnel must be bridged.

Love your dedication, at something, that takes a lot of time & patience; both of which You've got. Hat's off to You ! Cheers Banjo

Yeah, I looked at adapting FWD Corolla struts a few years back, it would be great for a wide track and control of camber. Unfortunately nearly all the FWD cars went to a 100mm PCD so the wheels would all have to be changed as well. The struts would have bigger (and ventilated) discs. They would need longer lower control arms too. A nice idea, but not worth the trouble. Using a FWD strut wouldn't gain much, the springs are usually larger in diameter then our style and wouldn't fit in the tower. The FWDs are nose-heavy so the springs would be stronger too. Its likely the springs, being larger in diameter, would be shorter than ours, so you would weld a long FWD strut tube onto a KE70 tube and then a FWD shock absorber would be too short. It would take a lot of research, I haven't heard of anyone doing it.

Welcome aboard Foxxtrott ! I'll bet you didn't figure on getting such a detailed response, as Altezzaclub's advice; in such a short time. I found his advice excellent, & a good read; & wish a lot of that aftermarket suspension accessories, were available years ago, when everyone on this site (including me), were trying to improve their suspension setups, with swaps from other Toyota vehicles. You can still do that, if the professional kits, are outside your budget, but many of the swap items, are pretty rare to find at a wreckers these days. Good luck ! Cheers Banjo

I've been researching this for a couple of months, I'm doing the same project over the rest of the year, and I'm looking at BCRacing coilovers with Manon racing brakes. BCR make a coilover tube with adjustable shock and ride height, and camber tops if wanted. They sell two style of bottom cup for welding onto your own strut, a KE70 one at 48mm and a AE86 one at 51mm. I'm happy to go with the KE70 one, there is no gain in the AE86 one and I'd have to get AE86 hubs. I'm buying the V1-VA set, more road use and lighter springs than their semi-race BR-BA version, and I'm negotiating lighter springs than their 6-4kg/mm as AE86 and KE70 are less than 2kg/mm stock. Another option would be find a complete strut off a Corona XT130, something we've done in the past, you get 52mm strut tubes and big, but non-vented, brakes. You'll still need to buy an adjustable shock and weld-on coil-over thread kit, but just the threaded tube with spring base and top. I was going to do this but the 'Rona struts are hard to find and its all very heavy. Other companies that have weld-on kits include- Titan suspension, PSR suspension, Godspeed Max, Emotion Racing Taiwan, and Group D in Ireland. Any company that didn't list spring rates I figured was crap, and anything from overseas means Customs Duty/Excise tax & postage on top. BCR seemed the best overall. Manon Racing have been easy to talk with for brakes, they offer a 13" wheel kit using Wilwood Dynalite calipers and vented disc, or 14" kits using WIlwood Dynapro calipers and disc. This setup gives you an adjustable shock and bigger brakes while using your stock hub and steering arms. You can buy the whole AE86 setup from FLOS in Ireland if you're keen, coilovers, strut tubes, hubs, brakes, rotors and steering arms. I'm budgeting on $1500 each, so $3k for coil-overs and brakes. You can easily spend $4k on coilovers alone.

Everything is the same except the K50 has an extra gear in the rear part of the gearbox. So the clutch will be the same, & most of the gearbox the same too.

The first thing I would be doing is checking the float level in the carb (carb rebuild raises a flag). Edit, saw you have electric ignition.

"ems as tho my carbs are out of tune won’t hold idle with out choke out, " Take the tops off, unscrew the various jets and clean them out with a can of carb cleaner. Shoot cleaner down the holes and drillings where the jets go. The fuel cell may have been replacing a rusty fuel tank, and dirt from that might be blocking the idle jet on one carb now. Hold a carb top up vertically and have the float hanging so the arm just touch the needle and seat valve, and measure the gap float to top with verniers. Compare the two carbs, the gap should be 11mm from memory. That gap determines your fuel level in the carb, which also determines the leaness. Another one is the gasket between the carb and the manifold, a difficult choice. Some get bolted up tight, other theories reckon they must float so the engine vibrations don't disturb the fuel. See if they are rigid now. Then take the carbs off and inspect the O-rings or the gaskets to the manifold. Any leak in there will run a carb lean. Then back the junction screw off that joins the carbs so they are independent at idle and see if each one makes a distinct clean 'click' when you let its throttle drop 5mm. If the idle stop screw is not set correctly it will not have a clean click, or if the throttle shaft is bent so one of the two plates hits first. Check each carb then run it so you can play with each to see which one is lazy. Take a length of hose and listen to each of the 4 throats, they should each make a clean distinct 'thop' sound at idle. The quiet or fuzzy ones need their idle mixture screw adjusted. get each pair sounding as similar as possible. Then set the idle speed screw on each carb to make the carbs sound the same. Then set the balance screw joining the carbs so they open the same from that idle point. There, you've set them up! Of course the jets may not be ideal, but you need the car running as best you can before driving it and doing 'plug cuts' to compare the 4 plugs and see if the same fuel is getting delivered to each throat and if the mixture is correct right through the range. A mixture display and an oxy sensor is the modern way to do this, with an oxy sensor port in each exhaust branch... The trouble is, you spend that money and once you have the right jets in the carbs you never need the gear again. There're books written on how to tune twin carbs, this is just a quick reply...

Viterbo! How's that wild KP61 you had? The two wires are probably the ones at the gearlever, there will be a few there. A pair make the light work at night so you can see the gear you're in, a pair make the reverse lights work and a pair are to tell the ECU you are in neutral so it can start the car. This thing- https://www.tcorolla.net/adjustment-1174.html Hmmm.. for a Camry its on the gearbox, not the lever. https://carpedia.club/en/Ustanovka-perekliuchatelia-polozheniia-stoianka-neitral-avtomobilia-Toyota-Camry-2001-2006 and it is on the AE111 too! https://toyota.epc-data.com/corolla_levin/ae111/17734/electric/8401/ Looks like you'll have to sort out which wires do what in that switch. Ah, here you go- As a start I reckon power comes in on the top yellow, then goes to the ECU via green park, red reverse, blue/white neutral, blue/black drive, 2nd gear yellow and low gear red/yellow. So do you want to tell the ECU its in neutral or park?

Now thats a good idea. About to do similar so I'll give that a go!

Well BIG update, long story short she is finished and now registered! Here's some photos from it's shake down trip! Started off at a spot out of town for sunrise. Then went down onto the beach! Here's a shot of the finished engine bay! Also fitted up a D21 Navara/Pathfinder snorkel! Fits really well and gives the factory look I was going for! Fitted up some flush mount LED reverse lights in the rear bumper. Really enjoying exploring in the old girl, a few more trips coming up soon!

So this week was a mixed bag of results. I decided to just remake the while bottom of the frame for the tailgate, but I didn't have a piece of steel long enough and I didn't want to put in a weld to get two pieces in when I can do it with one. So I'm holding off on the bottom until I get the steel. However I finally found someone willing to remake the rear quarter window seals. So using some rope in the locking channel, using that as a guide I took some basic measurements, lengths of each side, each angle and I even made a plywood template of the window. But then I sent all those off and I eagerly awaited the results. The photos sent through looked good So I now to remove the window and do a test fit when it arrives. If this works I'll order the same for the other side. Hope this works (insert gulp)

The finished product turned out ok, it was a bit funky welding at different angles as the replacement panel bent over curves. So my welding went a little astay in some sections. But a little grinding to get everything flush and I will need to go over the whole thing and get the file finish I'm looking for. But the front turned out ok, The back I'm still working on but you can see a little warping in the bottom of the panel, but I'll be cutting this but off anyhow.

My KE30 already has a Toyota Echo radiator in it, with electric fan, which I fitted several years ago. Here's a a comparison photo I took, comparing original & donor Echo radiator, at the time. The Echo radiator, total area is similar, but it's aluminium; & more efficient. The Echo radiator fan covers a much greater area, of the honeycomb, than the aftermarket Chinese one. It also has insulated mounts top & bottom, so I don't use, at all; the original body mounting points on the side of the original KE30 radiator mounts. It works really well. The only reason, I want to replace it, is that the bottom outlet, is on the wrong side, for the K Series engine, & will foul my trigger wheel, attached to the crankshaft pulley. I might just take the Echo radiator to my radiator repair guy; & get him to move the outlet to the other side, & blank off the original outlet. I'll follow that idea up, next week. The rare earth magnets are cylindrical in shape; 4mm dia x 20mm long. The end must to face the Hall Effect device. The interference fit into the hole, plus some Araldite, plus a centre punch dimple on the side of the disk, should make them very secure. P.S. I agree with you about the common use of regular zip-ties, to connect the aftermarket fan assemblies to the core. Both my engine test beds have aftermarket electric fans, mounted that way, with zip ties. However, they are "stationary motors"; not bumping along roads, creating vibrations. Cheers Banjo

That photo I came across; of a beautiful K Series motor preparation, (see earlier post in this thread) has had my mind racing this week. Although the "specialised camshaft sprocket aluminium cover", looks like it is professionally made; I couldn't help but think, that I want one ! So if you can't buy one; could I just make one. I really need all the space in front of the engine, so a bracket that holds the Hall Effect sensor; vertically facing down to the edge of the trigger wheel; would provide the best solution. My "lash up", to prove my concept of a "no missing teeth trigger wheel", using rare earth magnets, with a separate single inboard magnet to create the crankshaft positional signal. However, since then, I've purchased a Haltech double Hall Effect sensor, where the sensor barrel, contains two Hall Effect devices. One detects North pole magnets, & the other detects South pole magnets. Being the same housing means there only needs to be one row of magnets around the aluminium disk edge. I have 35 magnets around the edge, with south pole facing the sensor, & one magnet, with the north pole facing out. This then produces the same result as a 36:1 toothed wheel, from the "South Pole" Hall Effect device. However, the single pulse per revolution, positional sensor signal, can be "OR'd" with the 35 pulses, to produce a very accurate signal, with no missing tooth gaps, for determining high accuracy & resolution, for extremely accurate RPM measurement. Accurate RPM info is most important, as it determines where on the MAP, the ECU takes its preset response curve. The picture directly above, shows two Hall Effect devices, & the single positional indicator magnet is located inboard, in line where the missing tooth is located. The single Haltech Hall Effect sensor I'm now using, simplifies this above depicted arrangement, as it has two individual Hall Effect sensors, both mounted in a common housing, but with two (2) individual, electrical outputs. With a single Hall Effect sensor, with two Hall effect sensors therein; this allows a single row of sensors around the outside of the aluminium trigger disk. 35 off magnets, with "south" pole facing out, & one off magnet with it's north pole facing out. It all works, & I have had the engine actually running like this, in full sequential firing, via the Toyota Echo COPs, I've mounted on the engine; albeit, with only fixed advance of 10-12 degrees. However, the Haltech Dual Hall effect sensor, is longer than the two (2) off single output Hall effect devices depicted above. It looks like this . . . . . That means, the Haltech sensor sticks out horizontally, even further. So my intent is to mount it vertically, off the camshaft sprocket aluminium cover. I've dug out an olde 5K cover, & ground the slight dome off the front of it's external face, so I can mount the 6mm x 120mm thick aluminium disk, which should arrive in a couple of days. It won't look as good as that professional one, depicted on the web photo, earlier in this thread; but it will provide me with a solid & firm base to mount the sensor, as vibration from brackets sticking out in open air, provide a source, to create missed sensor signals, where air gaps are small, & missing positional signals, are not welcome. However, solving one problem, introduces another consideration ! The mounting of the sensor vertically, requires that the rare earth magnet end faces, also meet the Hall Effect sensor face vertically. This is because the magnetic field is stronger; close to the "poles", where it is concentrated. This will require embedding the magnets in "the edge" of the aluminium disk. The face of the Hall Effect sensor is 10mm in diameter. Obviously, that would require a very thick aluminium disk. I've settled for some 4mm rare earth magnets, I have here, & have ordered a 200mm dia. x 8mm thick aluminium disk, to embed them in. The magnets will be 20mm long. The problem is that mounting the magnets in that fashion, exposes them to the centrifugal force of the spinning disk, trying to "shed them" . This does not happen presently, as the magnets are contained securely from centrifugal forces, as they are pressed in from the side of the disk. My technique previously, was to drill the holes in the disk, slightly undersize; & press the magnets in, using a vice. I'll use that technique again, & fill the hole with Araldite, before fitting them. Then laying the disk on it's side, on a hard flat surface, A simple centre punch to the side of the disk, in the middle of where each magnet is embedded; should result in no movement in magnets at all. However, I have seen pictures of professional Aluminium trigger wheels with magnets, so went looking at what others have done. Holley / MSD produce something like this . . . In this case, the magnet face is pointing to the side of the disk, rather than facing the sensor. The answer to this query, is actually in the photo. The sensor only has two (2) wires coming out of it. It is in fact; not a Hall Effect sensor, but a common VR, or variable Reluctance sensor, which requires no power. It is interesting, because the picture of the K Series engine above is also using a single VR sensor, & a ferrous "missing tooth" trigger wheel. I do not favour the VR sensors; although I know manufacturers in the USA & elsewhere, have used them for decades. My objections are two fold. One, the waveform from the VR sensor is a badly formed sinusoidal waveform, & requires extra electronics to "square" it up, so the time information is accurate. Two, "the amplitude" of the waveform, is quite low, at low revolutions; (whilst cranking), & therefore, the very time at which you are trying to start the engine, on a cold Winters morning; the sensor is providing it's lowest amplitude. So when I receive a 200mm dia. x 8mm thick aluminium disc, this coming week, I can then work out, how I'm going to set it up, to drill 36 off 4mm holes, 20mm deep, around the narrow, (8mm) wide edge. P.S. One of the nice & convenient things about my little project; is that I can pop the original dissy in; remove the COPs, & run the engine, whilst lining everything up on the trigger wheel, & checking the Hall Effect sensor outputs on the CRO. Cheers Banjo

Looks very much like it to me, Col. Unfortunately, it was the only photo I could find on the net of that particular engine. Some photos of the six sides of the engine, would provide all the answers. I do have a 5K engine I bought a few years ago, for $ 100. It apparently, had been used in a speedway midget, & would rev to almost 11K. Was really worked over, & one day, I'll put it all together. It does have a couple of odd outlets on the sump, which indicates, it might have been used in a dry sump application, as no matter, how many baffles you place in the sump; in a speedway application, the oil is constantly thrown to the side of the sump. However, I did find a photo on Rollaclub, in a post dating back to 2008, which depicts a TRD alloy dry sump, for a K Series engine. Cheers Banjo

I found a DC motor speed controller on ebay, which controls the electric water pump, & flow of the coolant, from a trickle to full on. It handles a DC load of up to 10 amperes. With the radiator cap removed, you can clearly see the water flow change as the water pump speed is changed. It has a knob on it, which will be useful, as I manually try different flows & resultant temperatures, but also can be controlled by a 0-5V DC voltage, ultimately; from a controller, once a control system & program, is determined. So I started fitting sensors to the coolant system in several spots today. One on the hose leading to the top of the radiator, which will basically measure the temperature of coolant leaving the engine head, & entering the radiator. I already have a return line, at the back of the head, which returns hot coolant to the thermostat housing. I will fit one to that pipework, close to the rear exit from the head. Another will be fitted at the water pump, which is attached to the lower outlet from the raidator. This will allow easy delta T across the radiator, by sunbtracting radiator outlet temperature from radiator entry coolant temperature. The other place, I would like to measure coolant temperature, is inside the block coolant passages. The most convenient way to accomplish that, is to tap a temperature sensor, into a Welsh plug on the side of the block. It's simply a matter of drilling a hole & tapping it, in a Welsh plug, & then replacing an existing one. That will require the manifolds to be removed, to gain access to the three (3) off Welsh plugs on a K Series engine. So almost there, & should be soon starting the fun bit; which will be determining times & control program, to get the very best coolant temperature control. Cheers Banjo

Hello rollaclub. I see willowbank has renamed the test and tune events, "race ya mate." I'm in desperate need of a fresh 1/4 mile time since making a million changes to my setup. I'm looking for someone to come race me on the 5th of April. Anyone?

KE26 Name: Jose Garro Car: 1974 KE26 2 door Toyota Corolla station wagon Engine & Driveline: standard 3K 1200 engine with 4 speed gearbox Suspension and Brakes: standard suspension with drum in each corner Wheels & Tires: 13 inch Formula Wheels (Minilite like wheels) with Firestone 205/60 tires Interior & Body: Standard I'm from Costa Rica, and I found this car thanks to a Facebook group. It has 24.000 original km (15.000 miles), no rust and everything (except the wheels) is as the factory put on it. The car was stored almost all it's life, and now I'm the second owner and the responsible for keep it like this. Plans are save money for a full respray (the color was red from factory, but now looks like a dark pink in the sun), change all the suspension rubber, rebuild the brakes, change the clutch and enjoy it a lot! With my 1974 KE20 four door sedan for a family pic

Ke25

I was waiting to get better photos. But until then have some sideways ones.

Well, bro 'n I went to Bathurst for the V8Supercars, then I ran him up to Coolangatta. The 60series tyres were on the back going up, but we went to Armidale via the flat inland road with a tailwind, so the trip up was 1000km at 6.8L/100. It was a little squirmy in the rear, but I wasn't sure if it was lack of grip or bump steer from more sticky tyres, certainly I expected the 60series to be better than the 70series. We swapped the wheels to big ones on the back and small ones on the front up there, and I went back to Armidale to fetch The Girl from Uni. This was a climb up through the twisties from sea level to a few thousand feet, and then we had a headwind back to Orange. The big tyres on the back dropped the revs, but turned in 7.7L/100km, all on United 95octane. The worst thing was the tyres! The 60series have worse grip than the 70's, so Maxxis are just not as good as cheap Falkens. The increase in understeer was quite noticeable. Still, they'll do while I decide what diff to use, 13" or 14" rims, which tyres to buy.

Got some New 13x6 Jelly bean Mags this weekend for $180 Also got a Carby filter and housing from Redline Performance And thanks to Jesse Howie Photographics for the awesome shots of my KE38 with its new tread

Name: Dougy Car: KE26 Panelvan (windowless) Car Name: ????????still haven't named this beast yet Year: 1974 Motor/box : Stock 3K/4 speed Wheels : 12" stockies with centre caps (new tyres) Plans for the near future : Strip all panels off, fix the minimal rust, paint underbody suspension etc, rub body back and respray, put some wider rims on maybe 13's

agreed :hmm:

I took the falcon down to the local goodyear tyre & auto this morning to get a nail removed from the front tyre and discussion turned to corolla's and k motors. He told me he had built and raced a reliable n/a 3k with 165hp @ 8000rpm at the rear wheels, dyno tested. The 3k wasnt in a corolla but in some type of sprint car and it ran on methanol (sp?) but would still have similar hp on premium I would think. The guy says he spent a heap of time, money and a few blown k blocks finding the right set up but when it was done he could run the engine at 8000rpm continuously for the whole race meeting for the whole year without a rebuild. Said it would actually spin up to close to 11,000rpm if he really pushed it but was of no benefit to do so. Best of all he has all the specs at home includin the dyno charts and has offered to share them with me if I want them. Some of the specs include 3k block rebored to 1220cc, mazda 121 pistons, 5k head, twin webers with fuel regulator and a whole heap of other assorted bits and pieces. He claims it can be built for about $1,000. Now I just need to convince the Mrs that it's worth spending even more $$$ on a car that will sit in the garage more than it gets driven. Mmmmmm......165hp 3k motokhana corolla, watch out Colin :down:

i believe you can get a 3k to make 165hp naturally aspirated i don't believe it's going to be a very useable car in motorkhana, a motorsport where you barely get out of first gear, and having throttle response across the entire rpm range is a useful thing. nor do i believe such an engine would suit a street car. it's a specialised, high-speed circuit racing engine, and nothing else i also believe you can get a K motor to hit 13000rpm, i've heard of this happening and don't doubt it for a second. however, doing this won't make your engine last very long at all we all know from others' experience that the blocks suffer from poor harmonics above 8000rpm and crack, and the the crank and rods will weaken substantially above 9000rpm in a 3k, and 8000rpm in a 4k