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  1. But as I draw closer to having the repairs to this tailgate done I am starting to think about some of the requirements/upgrades that I would like to have for this tailgate. - but more strength : I will put some extra bracing in the door frame as previously I noticed how bouncy the panel was. I have a plan for this one so stay tuned 😉 - Central locking : this will take some thinking. I'm open to suggestions - rear window wiper + nozzle : I will try get a kit and see what it looks like. I know the VW/Audi hatches have the nozzle in the spindle for the wiper so this could a neat solution - reversing camera : this should be easy enough, but I'm just thinking of a way to mount it cleanly beneath the Toyota badge. Most of these will require some modification to the tailgate, but this is the perfect time to plan for them
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  2. weld closer to the door way to allow the fumes to escape easier & better air ventilation is always better for ur lungs... keep up the good work... love KE26 wagons! i use to have one 30yrs ago LOL... maybe i should show u my KE25 sprinter almost finished after 8yrs...
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  3. Can’t believe I didn’t think of that! Was lying bed last night thinking about getting a bigger fan. Oh well, better welds or better lungs? Perhaps I’ll just be sensible and allow the fumes to clear before looking at the weld!
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  4. So here is an example, I'm using 0.8mm cold rolled steel. Starting on the right I went too fast and you see the weld is proud and almost shiny. Then I slowed down and let the puddle form and you can see the change in the weld, goes flatter and the filter rod flows into the parent metal. There was no change to the settings, no change in gas, I just slowed down a little. Flipping it over, again right to left with the metal butted hard up against each other I didn't get penetration because I was too fast. but then looking right to left you can see I get good penetration once I slowed down. Hope that made sense and it helps
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  5. You can build the whole car with a handful of timber shapes and a light hammer, that's how coachbuilders worked. We do similar work building race cars, customising panels in the simplest method. It will be a work of art when the car is finished!
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  6. Picked this up today, 64 toyota up10 700 toyoglide, original Need a hubcap if anyone can help
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  7. Most tachos, work by connecting the pulse train input wire for the tacho, to the negative terminal of the coil, which was traditionally, in a CB dissy; simply connected to the points. You could try simply connecting it to the negative terminal of your coil. If that doesn't work, then try the IGt signal. That is a nice square wave, & has some dwell information in there, as a result of the width of the pulse, which will not make any difference to the tacho reading, as it is only interested in the frequency, of the pulse train.. I notice that the ignitor in the diagram above, does have a "TAC" output, but as there is no wire colours depicted, that may make it difficult to identify, unless there are some markings on the ignitor itself. If you had access to a CRO, or a multimeter, that measures frequency, then you could probe around, until you found a signal that changes frequency with RPM. Unfortunately, I've never come across one of these Toyota ignition systems in my travels, so don't have any personal experience. Strangely, when I built the ignition system in my KE30 Corolla, years ago, I instigated a similar system, where under starting conditions, the coil is sent a signal at base ignition timing, of 10-12 degrees BTDC. Once the engine is running, the ignition system, then switches over to the electronic advance system. It does have the advantage, that the engine starts instantly always; & if your ignition system ECU & ignitor fail altogether, you can flick a switch, & get on home, in "limp mode", with just the base 10-12 degree advance. Somewhere on this forum, I described this system, years ago. I'll see if I can find it. Here it is . . . . . . Cheers Banjo
    1 point
  8. Where you at? I've got both genuine brackets I could sell.
    1 point
  9. am I missing something or is that a pump for the dry sump set up.0
    1 point
  10. Thanks banjo, I know it's funny but when I started the restoration 18 months ago I had never welded or done any form of metal shaping. I know I took Tafe courses and spent time at a professional shop to learn the skills, but for a complete novice this is a daunting task. All that said I do really enjoy it, you're right in that the process is gratifying to see how this is turning out. But it's funny to think I'm now doing the work at home, and hopefully someone will read this blog, my journey of learning and it inspires them to restore their car. Because if I can do it, well anyone can
    1 point
  11. And just like that, it's finished, slight change of plans on a few things, been on the road now for almost a year, and took 6 months of "trial and error" to get it to finally run as it should!
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  12. Who actually has one of these heads? Take it to China Profit?
    1 point
  13. There is NO F#$%^&G WAY, you would ever get 100 people to put their money up for this. I'd love to have one, but seriously, you're dreaming.
    1 point
  14. watch everyone disapear when the real prices are revealed.
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  15. You can't just replicate the top end of this thing... timing cover, sump, upright kit, manifolds, water and oil pump and pickup. I'd guess its bottom end is built like that of an... f1 car. Then there's ignition & fuel system, crank gear, cam gear, cams, followers, valves, stems & seals, rocker cover. Shit the list goes on. You'd have to be real keen because i'd estimate five figures each. I don't mean to dash hopes but the block alone probably needs thousands spent on it. It wouldn't be running a stock crank or bearings for sure. You could expect to be building an engine from scratch.... Good Luck any how.
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  16. Hi I am new to this site I have been looking for a 3kr engine for a little while and I found only one place to get one, the person who has it is thinking of sending the 3kr cylinder head to be reproduced so I was wondering if there would be 100 people who would be interested in a reproduction of a 3kr head and internals I need to find out about pricing but the person said just for the casting of the head wouldn't cost too much but reproduction of cams pulleys and so on will be needed. I will try and research where to get 3kr internal parts built let me know if anyone is interested, I will get back to the person and ask if the quote's been recieved for casting them I know my kp61 rwd starlet is lacking power so a 3kr would be dope cheers Liam
    -1 points
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