Molli
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Posts posted by Molli
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On 1/5/2020 at 10:09 PM, altezzaclub said:
I doubt replacing the chain will solve anything, unless you can hear it rattling at idle. There are plenty where the chain is so slack it hits the timing chain cover at idle but they still run OK.
Have you got a timing light you can measure the advance at idle and all the way up?? I painted extra marks all the way out to 40deg with white paint and graphed the timing each 500rpm to get a curve. I know the motors will stand a lot of advance, but backfiring is the limit.
The 5K dizzy I bought had an abysmal timing curve set up for a forklift, so I ended up changing the springs to get a wider curve. That's all covered here-
I think you'll find that is your problem, you just can't get a big enough range in timing with your dizzy.
True, usually it rattles like hell if needs replacement.
We measured the timing with two different lights, yes. It runs the best at around 30-35 degrees at idle and gets like 10ish to 15 more advance with centri and vac adjuster.
I jumped the dizzy twice and ended up filing the slot a bit, to get it decent. Something is now off. Been looking for a whole new dizzy now, eBay offers Boursin (should be good) for a good price. -
Old topic, but i have similar or somewhat similar symptoms on my winter beater.
Old dizzy was too worn (bearings were done or something was defo done because it was opened) and damaged the dizzy cap. Replaced it with modified (centifugal advance cut away a bit for 11:1 CR engine) 5K electirc one.
Tried to tune it somewhere reasonable, but wont run with factory timing numbers. Wants like +30 degrees advance to run properly. Vac adjuster works and centrifugal adjuster too, but limited of course due to the mod. Now sits around 35 and runs decent, but when gets warm (like an hour or so) starts to backfire a bit.
Any ideas? Engine is 4K out of KE70 -82, 188k kms driven.
I think i should replace the chain.
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On 8/29/2014 at 8:02 AM, tojo2 said:
al25 tercel is slighly larger but will also fit in
Your diff housing.
Tercel was 6.3" i think? Wasn't that the same as in TE71? I had one but didn't check if it was the same.
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A bit late, but still.
KE15 rear axle from drum to drum was 1288mm. -
Long time, no posting.
Well, i've been sourcing parts and started the bodywork as well.
Found a K50 with shortened gear ratios made by SF-Pyörä here in Finland, totally awesome.
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Didn't find the write-up for the parts needed. Any info on this?
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I'm about to lower my KE15 and i have KE20 struts with original strut inserts.I took them apart and have some ideas for them. Have any of you guys tempered with the original strut inserts, shortening it etc.?
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Wow! That's a lot of work! What did you do to upright it? How does the gearlever look?
I thought the carbs ran with the fuel bowl seam horizontal, so a lot less vertical than you have them. That would give you shorter intakes and more room.
I just turned the engine to upright position and made new engine and gearbox mounts. Gearlever goes a bit to the side, just cutted a notch to the tunnel and idea is to bend the lever. Then i had to cut and weld the oil inlet and modify the oil pan. Actually, i didn't even measure anything, just looked that everything is in the middle. Hahahhaha!
CBR carbs are originally downdraft and the bowls are basicly full all the time, so the position doesn't really matter. And little more curvy manifold creates better fuel atomization and thus maybe more torque too. Its gonna be street driven, so little more low end power doesn't hurt. And it doesn't make sense to rev it past 8k.
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Some picture of the engine build. Oh, did i mention i uprighted the engine too. :) There was no room for the headers, so it was a must-do.
And modified a elec dizzy for it too.
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Progress.
Engine choise turned to tuned 4K after all. I ported the head myself and my "engine-guy" made the valve job and cam measurings. Ended up with 11:1 CP + cam with 11.75mm of lift, can't remember the specs of the cam exactly. Selfmade manifolds and CBR900RR carbs.
Started to work on the body few days ago, but where can i find the front valance? ( Is it written right/proper english term for the part, dunno)
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OK, yesterday i received a lot of parts to the Rolla. 4K-block with dished pistons ( needs to be bored out, has a nasty scratch in one bore ), two new water pumps, some gaskets, 0.50mm oversize Mahle-pistons with new piston rings, grinded cam ( lift measured at cam 7.9mm ) and double springs, 3 different intake manifolds and some other misc. parts.
I also have 3K-H head in my garage, so i have plenty to go with now. The 3K that is now in the Rolla is so worn, that the whole city is full of smoke when i cruise with it. :D
Can you guys tell me, what is the combuster chamber volume in the 3K-H head? And volume of the 4K dished pistons?
I have heard that the latest 4K has the strongest conrods, true?
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I think the lpg setup doesnt run with your stock ecu.
I've been using this to match turbos, check it out:
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Thanks guys. It's really getting cold up here, today it was - 22 C already! And Rolla is my daily driven car, haven't cranked her up in 4 days now.
First i was going to build a turbo 4K carby in it. But i have really agressive cam+springs to match it too, so dunno yet what way to go.
4 or 5 years ago i owned a Publica 1000 pickup ( it's called Toyota Timangi over here) and i was about to install a bike engine in it.
So, two years ago i bought a Honda CBR600F-based go-kart with a turbo, and sold the frame to my friend. Now i have bike engine lying in my garage for nothing.
You can imagine the rest... Turbo is already been serviced and waiting to get balanced.
Here's a video of a finnish Publica Pickup with a Kawasaki 600 engine, that's where i got my idea:
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=y-lt2Y53fSk
We have this meeting during the spring called Old Time Run here in Mikkeli, so maybe i will get the bike engine running and installed before that.
My friend searched and bought whole lot of parts to the car, new fiber glass front fenders, new taillight surroundings, new taillights, new door seals etc.
I managed to find 1 brand new KE10 door ( i know, they are a bit different, nothing that big that a angle grinder and a welder would not handle ), and another side from my friend who owns a body shop. He's also sourcing me new original piston rings, water pump, and bearings for the 4K build. 3K/4K parts are fairly common around here too.
As soon as i get my other car ( Corolla AE101 ) in order (bodywork+paintjob), i'm starting to take care of my precious one.
I need to find a lsd to my rear axle too.
But still, i think i'm going more to the JDM-style, than the traditional finnish "old-school"-look. Those cars look too boring for me.
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Hi guys. I found your forum from Google and joined immediately!!
So, i bought this -69 KE15 from my friend, that had the car about 11 years in the garage. I sold it to him in year 2000, and he didn't had the time to build it. So i got my youth back and the car was in the same shape that when i sold it. Engine is a 3K bigport, maybe someone has changed the cam, at least it feels like it, lol. The body is original, i think. I can't find any weldseams!! You can imagine how warm this ride is in the winter... This morning it was - 18 C, and cranked her up.. .
Here's couple pics of the Rolla.
Stay tuned..
- Tero
Ke70 Timing Chain Replacing?
in KExx Corolla Discussion
Posted
I ordered a new electric dizzy this morning.
Yea, i know how the timing "should" be, but no cigar.
And like i said, the one in now, has modified curve so it doesnt give some much advance like stock dizzy would. But the odd thing is why in the hell it wants so much advance now?
The stock dizzy was timed correctly and worked (semi-)fine until the bearings went.
I need a beer. Or 12.