oldpops

Hello. We have a 1995 Corolla Base model/1.6L, which we don't drive too often (keep it for when our other car is in the shop). Anyway I have 2 questions/issues I could use help with: #1) Last time we drove the car we noticed that the speedometer wouldn't work until we got to about 50+ MPH - then the speedo would jump up to 50 or so MPH. As long as we stayed above about 50 MPH the speedo would register a speed. Once we dropped below 50+ MPH - the speedo would drop to zero. Was told it's probably the 3 capacitors on the back of the speedometer. So I changed them out but it still doesn't work?? Could it be the speed sensor? Or does the fact that it starts working when we hit 50+ MPH eliminate the speed sensor? ** I should also state that when the speedo does start working - it speed is off (my wife drove behind and when the speedo starting working and saying 50+ MPH, it was off by 10 more so MPH?? (Of course, since I'm old and my eyesight is bad, it's possible that my soldering isn't that good or maybe I don't have the polarity correct on the capacitors??) #2) Is there a way to bench test the lights in the instrument cluster? I have been trying to upgrade all the instrument cluster lights to BRIGHT LED lights (easier for us old folks to see) and no matter what I do, some don't seem to work?? I' used 'supposed' non-polarity LED's. I should say that I'm a disabled senior and it's quite a pain to keep having to go out to the car to remove/replace the cluster to keep changing bulbs. I know there's a guy on eBay who sells clusters and he has rigged up a bench tester - which also tests the speedo, but he said it cost $500 bucks to build. I have to believe there's a way just to illuminate all the bulbs on the cluster somehow. As always, let me say in advance that any and all help, advice, and suggestions are GREATLY appreciated!!

Thanks 'altezzaclub'! I've never been able to find any OBD1 code reader for this car(without buying an EXPENSIVE OBD scanner for obd1 & obd2 codes - but I'm an old guy and not too good with computers) so if you have a favorite OBD 1 scanner that would work for this car, that would be greatly appreciated)! A OBD1 scanner for this car would really help an old guy like me! In the meantime, I will see if I can get my son to come over to help me get any codes.

Thanks everybody! I probably should have been more specific: This is the 4AFE engine, and the oil place put in about 5-1/2 liters (or about 5-1/4 quarts) in an engine that only takes about 3.3 quarts. So they put in about 2 extra quarts. The engine has about 172,000 miles on it so I'm sure that some of the oil got past the rings and onto the plugs (for some reason, the #3 plug was the worst of the 4 plugs as far as being fouled). "Banjo" mentioned that: However, the greatest damage would be that a of of that excess oil could have splattered the crankcase breathing system, & got back up into the air filter." is something I hadn't thought about, but that would explain the backfires coming out of the air filter box. The check engine light doesn't stay on, so would the car still have trouble codes? And what is the procedure for retrieving them? Since the car runs great (when it starts), I'm going to assume the actual engine timing is good, but I'm probably going to replace the distributor cap and rotor, and then the spark plug wires. And then drive the car a few long drives to clean out any remaining troubles.(I hope). Since I'm here, does anyone know what size bulbs are used for the little lights on the back of the instrument cluster? I know the 3 big bulbs are #194, but the little ones for like the high-beam, brake light, etc., I'm having difficulty find what they are. I would like to have all the bulbs needed to change them out when I pull the instrument cluster (I have to replace the 3 capacitors on the back of the speedometer). I want to do everything at once while the cluster is out. Thanks in advance for help and advice!

Thanks! I'm guessing that the over-fill on the oil change is not causing the backfire & crank/no start issue. It's just strange to me that it started right when the oil change was done. My dear departed mother would tell me it was GOD looking out for me - that he gave the car the crank/no start issue so that I couldn't drive the car around with the extra amount of oil & cause serious damage to the engine! It was always hard for me to argue with my mom when she would come up with something like that. It is a 29 year old car so it's bound to have problems. I don't think this model has any carburetor and the ignition module in the distributor eliminates the points. However, sometimes the spark can jump inside the distributor cap from one point to another. I'll let you know. The tire and lube place said they would do a timing check, and look inside the distributor cap & check the rotor - hopefully they will let me look at what they find, although I'm probably going to look before going back there so I know what they 'should find'.

I'll try to be brief: Q#1) I'm a disabled senior with a balance problem (I can't stand long and I fall a lot). Anyway, we have a 1995 Corolla (base model, 1.6L, automatic transmission, 172,000 miles). It was my birthday, It was 105+ outside, and I had a coupon for a full synthetic oil change for $19.95, and the tire and lube place had just changed my wife's car oil without any problems. So I had them change the oil, and because it was sooo hot outside, I didn't check the oil level on the engine oil dipstick before leaving. The car drove home great - no issues (14 miles). Got home & parked the car, where it sat for 2 days. Needed the car and it wouldn't start (crank only and backfire coming out from the air filter box??). Checked the oil level and found that it was way over-filled! Used a fluid extractor and took out about 5 liters/about 5-1/2 quarts from an engine that only takes 3.2. quarts. We put in the correct amount of oil and got the car to start (by holding the gas pedal down while cranking - after a few more back-fires) Ran fine again for a few days. car sat again for a few days and when we went to drive it - again, crank/no start. The backfire is telling me it's a timing issue (curious how this only started after the over oil change), not related to the oil change mistake. Pulled the plugs and they were fouled. Put in new ones and again got the car to start - again after some backfires through the air filter box & by holding the gas pedal down while cranking. Never detected any foam on the oil dipstick or oil filler cap, nor any smoke from the exhaust. All I know is that the car has always started and run great until the oil change. Am I missing something? The car runs great, once we get it started & I'm thinking the starting issue is a timing issue (the backfires indicate this to me). Q#2) What are all the different size light bulbs on the instrument cluster? I know that the main 3 bulbs are #194 bulbs, but I don't know about the rest of the bulbs, and my old eyes can't see any identifying bulb number. Is there any way to make all the bulbs on the instrument cluster illuminate at one time? This would be helpful in knowing which ones are out before changing them. Any and all help is appreciated!

Thanks everybody! I will see if I see any leaks/cracks or loose vacuum lines, and then before really getting into it, I may just go to another pas/don't pay smog shop. After that, I can start with checking the timing. Hope it's nont the actual EGR unit - about $250 to replace (just for the part)

Hello, I have a 1995 Corolla (1.6L, 150,000 miles)) and it failed the CA emission smog test (Failed the Nitrous Oxide/NO test at 15 MPH/Passed the NO test at 25 MPH). Smog tech said I should have run the car for at least a 1/2 hour before bringing it in to be smogged so everything was HOT (oxygen sensors, catalytic converter) because the car just barely failed. Put in some better gas & drove it an hour at 60 mph and drove back to the test place (kept the engine running until the guy took the car into to be tested. Now the guy said it failed again, but his time because the EGR valve failed?? He said the diaphragm in the EGR isn't working. Sounds plausible except that the car runs PERFECT!!! And unless I am correct, if the EGR diaphragm really wasn't holding vacuum, the car would run like crap (it runs great) - or am I wrong. And I would assume that the car would fail by a LOT, and not almost pass. Is this possible or is the guy scamming me? Or maybe he has no clue. The NOx reading at 15 MPH MAX is 504PPM, my car 635 PPM. And if the EGR was really bad, wouldn't it fail the NOx test at 25 MPH as well? (My car passed at 25 mph) Anyone know?