TharinduR

Oh I love you guys altezzaclub, Banjo. Thank you very much for always helping out and sharing knowledge. Which is a very rare good quality. I simply need to attach the tacho, nothing complex than that, I used a CB type distributor previously and I managed to change the advance curve of that with the help of the guide posted by altezzaclub, which worked : ) Then we had this CDI type dizzy and was lying around and recently when we went to see a mechanic to tune our carb he managed to fit it to the car. Now because the dizzy is sending pulses instead of switching can't fit the tacho : ) Tacho is a one i found from a old dashboard and it needs negative pulses to work. It worked fine for the previous dizzy, need to find a way to connect it to this. Thank you again for comments

I checked the wire's with multimeter, green one seems to be negative and blue one has 12v when ignition switch is on, but when engine starts the voltage varies, can it be a line to RPM meter? The RPM meter I have has a negative pulse input, so can't check with it.

Hello, I am using this igniter which came on a Corolla DX I think, for my corolla Ke50 with 3k engine. This is a CDI type one. It has 6 Wires coming out of it. And only 4 are used, does any one know how they are connected. Pink - To Distributor White - To Distributor White - Coil Positive Light Green - ? Light Blue - ? Black- Coil Negative Thank you.

Thank you for reply altezzaclub. I think it goes to around 52deg or something, in the K manual also total advance is mentioned around that I think. Anyway had a spin today and It was really good, no knocks good pickup, and smooth acceleration. Earlier I had to struggle to overtake since it took some time to spin-up the engine, now I can overtake smoothly. Have to check if the fuel economy has improved, I will update here. I checked all around about the plug colors and its a mysterious case didn't found any other incidents like this on the net. I have checked the wires, contacts, switched the plugs, doublechecked the gaps, I guess it has something to do with advancing also, since earlier all 4 plugs were good. Also I have to check valve clearances, I checked the compression and its very low, around 106psi-108psi per cylinder, and 1-4 are on 106psi so there maybe something to do with that too. Since there's no missing and engine runs smoothly at around 650RPM I don't think it has to do anything with timing, I will check and post with the findings. Everything for pollution control system has been disconnected and air-pump doesn't work anymore so its removed.

Update: I updated the springs with lighter ones and got the curve around 2000 - 4000 advancing and It made some improvement. Today I changed one of the springs to a lighter one and now the curve is around 1500 - 2500. I will gave a spin and update. I think that is a better curve rite? I had another issue, my 1-4 plugs are black and 2-3 plugs are perfect, Any reason for this? I'm trying the distributor changes without the vacuum advance. This issue was there before I change the springs also. Thank you for valuable ideas and guidance from this forum.

Thank you very much for the very informative reply Banjo, I have already tested this, It seems OK, the pistons and timing mark aligns up nicely. The only issue I'm facing is low mileage, except that engine doesn't misfire, I have set the base timing to 8* as the manual says and the 8* mark is also there in cover. Current centrifugal advancing starts around 3000 RPM, and maxes out around 4500 I think, so that is why I'm checking how to change it. Vacuum advancing was off too, it went for around 60-70* on 3000 RPM which is way off. So I checked with another dizzy and found out my advance is advancing too much. And now using a different advance for now until I correct my one. (Its advancing length is long that's the issue.)

I have taken the distributor out and will try altezzaclub's spring changing methods, Lets see how it goes. I will keep things updated here in case some one else also tries to do same thing.

The distributors here are most of the time either very old or they lack parts, so that is why I got a new one from a shop here, Yes you are correct, Its the emission type and it has many vacuum controlled valves and things that are not there any more. Here if the mechanics doesn't understand what the part is for, its not necessary for the engine so they remove it ha ha. That's what happen to this car also, most of the things are not there. I'm from Sri Lanka and most now doesn't care about the old cars here now if they are running that's it. Thank you very much Banjo you are correct, it seems to have had a catalytic converter and its not there any more, also there was a air pump that pumps fresh air to the exhaust, which we managed to get working and unfortunately broke because water from exhaust came to the pump and rusted it because we didn't know about the one way valve that should be there, (the pump was never used and we tried it so parts were missing) This engine has several Manuals it seems 3K-U manual is a separate one and very hard to find. I will check your suggestion checking the timing chain too. I'm just digging and doing these things for my knowledge and as a hobby, so thank you all for your shareings

This information is very helpful, thank you very much for taking time to document it. And keep the good work going.

No Now its running on Gasoline. LPG is costly now, and I recall even with LPG it didn't have much mileage.

Hello, I have a Corolla KE50 with a 3K-U engine. The fuel economy is not very good from the day we bought it, around 20 years now its around 10-13max on long distance. Initially it was converted to LPG and most of the vacuum lines and stuff were stripped off. Now only I'm going through everything and trying to restore it. I have rebuilt the carby with a repair kit as the mechanics here have messed up the jets and everything, the only available repair kit is 3k ones. (can't find any 3k-U) I have tried various methods with carburetor by reducing jet sizes, adjusting float levels etc... but hasn't improved anything. Then the electrical system, the original ignitor unit was available and not working, after some searching managed to get it working again and now the ignitor unit is working. Yet no major improvements, but engine runs smoother and able to idle around 650RPM smoothly. When keep reading about these things, many articles form this form too I got a feeling that advancing may have to do something with the economy of the engine because any other method didn't work out. Mainly the advancing curve, because the original distributer this car had was rusted and we replaced with a aftermarket one for 3K engine. The vacuum advance was way off it went for around 70*+ I think where it should be around 52*. So Changed the vacuum advancer and managed to sort it, it works on the range 1500-2500. The issue is mechanical advancing does not work on that range. It starts around 3000RPM and goes for about 4500 to get max advance. Which I think is too much? Can any one guide me to correct this, where I can find springs or how I can adjust the tension. And if my values are incorrect what should have happen, I'm a IT person so only know what I read about mechanics. So please excuse me if I'm on the wrong idea or I have done anything wrong. Thank you in advance.