Mr. 427

u can send the bolt sample (probably few others too) to the engineering workshop somewhere near u and let the machinists make a few of those from AISI 1040 rods or grade 8 rods. that's the last resort, ofc.

@altezzaclubit's quite economical and efficient to run at any altitude, weather conditions, & driving conditions. it's got pump jet too like any other carbs. but mostly without the hesitation when u suddenly open the throttle, since the vacuum-controlled piston barrel immediately lets in the ideal amount of air entering through the carb for the computed quantity of fuel during the. i intend to complement it with the rebuilt engine as it's got ported/polished, flywheel-crank assembly fully balanced till 2g, re-machined cam with shorter duration, wider lsa & lower exhaust valve lift than stock; remachined valve face & high tension main compression rings. motorbike carbs are just too much of a hassle for me to setup, tune and maintain during my rest day. so, I'll give it a pass. @Banjonah. I'm going for the MMC genuine carb manufactured in Japan and made in Thailand. at least it's 85 leagues ahead in terms of proven long-term consistency and longevity. much bigger than the stock pumper too, mind u...

exactly the point. found out that there was a very minor vacuum leak from the worn throttle shaft bushings when i sprayed brake cleaner around the base. that doesn't affect much, but if not eliminated will make me sleepless throughout the nights. lol.. as the rebuild kit didn't include them in the package, the only rational & pragmatic solution for this issue is to get a brand new MD-192036 Mitsubishi CV carb with a matching adapter plate that I also use for the 4K in my ke36. any opinions regarding that?

done with the compression tests. here are the results for the each cyl with dry test: #1 @ 142psi, #2 @ 145psi, #3 @ 147psi, #4 @ 144psi. with wet test, it only rises for about +/- 3 to 4psi. so, it's still a healthy engine, being rebuilt right after purchase. next was vacuum test. the needle went berserk between 12 inHg and 17inHg at 850rpm, telling me that there's smth not right with the carb adjustment. dismantled the carb, shaved off the inlet of the pilot jet till its wide open, resassembled. put it back on the manifold, starts the car, adjust the idle af mix screw accordingly. then and only then, it starts to idle properly. even the vacuum gauge reads more stable too. guess there's still some stubborn cruds deeply attached in the idle circuit that a steel wire, carb cleaner and diesel couldn't remove. sighh

nah, just the typical 4-door saloon. got myself a 79 ke36 years before, and recently the 82 charmant. both came equipped with the k50 speed gearbox. however, the charmant had its own charms, with the panhard bar on the rear and the super comfortable luxurious seats. it still got plenty of issues currently, but drivable nonetheless. also, I'm a heavy equipment mechanic/welder specialising on the hydraulic crawler excavators and cranes, wheel loaders and forklifts. so, after series of tiring and mind-numbing days, the last thing i want to work on is my own cars on the weekends and holidays, ofc xD but anyway, i got that sorted out. the idling issue persisted, with slightly smoother all around. i guess it's about time to pull out the vacuum gauge and compression tester kit for a more thorough check. cheers and have a nice day.

yeh.. found the leak at the breather valve inlet on the carb fiber gasket. now, should i just apply band-aid like gasket sealant or replace the whole thing

hello there, everyone. i've a 1982 Daihatsu Charmant LE that seemed to have a mysterious never-ending issue with idling. it flat-out refused to hold the idle steady, but accelerates just fine under load even after multiple carb rebuild attempts. the exhaust sounds seemed out-of-rhythm too when that happens. it's got a stock 4k-j engine and ofc, aisan carb. got that carb cleaned (again and again), and refitted with the repair kit (gaskets, jets, idle screw, steel balls, and etc). the float bowl is adjusted accordingly (lying flat on its own when turned upside down) note that the distributor, ac fuel pump, carb thermal plate, breather valve are also functioning well. plugs indicate slightly lean mixture, with a very light brownish stain on the ground and the porcelain on each plug) so, rollaclub fella, what gives? have a nice day. cheers