Fu-Leng

I don't believe I have a vacuum leak. I have a vacuum gauge connected to the intake, and it is stable while I have the choke closed, so no leak. I think the problem is really the idle screw, that I think it was fully pull out, so when I released the choke after a few seconds it would slow down the engine slowly until it dies. But because I did not remember that screw when I was with the car I did not try to check it. will do it maybe still today. Now I need to but back the seats, put the breaking fluid on and try it out on the field - until now the car did not left the garage :)

Thanks everyone I tried putting: mains 120/120 air 170/170 idle 50/55 Then engine would not even start. weird. Then I opened the carb again. Changed back to default but same thing, it did not start. So I changed again, this time to: mains 120/140 air 170/165 idle 50/55 Hoping that engine started but nothing. this kept me thinking if I had spark, so I checked distributor and on TDC put it on the correct position (with cap outiside i checked when it sparked while rotating the distributor and put it just before spark). Then I checked the plugs, and they where black as night, lol. This might be the problem, too rich on the carb, so I cleaned the spark plugs, put them back, leaned a bit the mixture and rotated the key. The engine started finally, and it kept around 2k rpm with choke closed. If I closed the choke it died after a few seconds. Because I did not have more time to be around the car yesterday I left it like that but now, I know why it died after the choke open - the idle speed screw was not correctly, so that will be the first ting I'll try when I get back to it. I read about someplace that these webers like a lot of advance, how much is "a lot"? just a few degrees on the timing? I'll try next time.

Hi all I put a Weber 32 DGR on my 4K. This weber is just like a DVG, with manual choke. The jets it has: main:120/105 idle:50/55 air corr: 170/135 When I try to start engine it revs high and dies, even with choke full closed. Maybe I should change jets? Does anyone knows the correct jets for a stock 4K? Just to add the this weber came from a Suzuki Vitara. BR José Martins

Just to add that my Weber DGR doesn't have a return fuel line (neither the previous KE35 carbs). I'll try them. First need to clean them up while theya re not mounted, and I need do make new gaskets for intake and the carb base. Thanks for everything.

Hi Thanks for the help. I'll keep the mechanical pump. My old carbs were leaking from the throtle pump. Even after changing gaskets and rubbers they were leaking. And they were a pain in the ass to sync correctly. But I'll keep them in storage anyway.

Hi After rebuilding my twin carbs and still they were leaking fuel, I'm changing them for a single Weber downdraft. I bought a intake manifold from a 4K starlet, but I'll still use my exaust manifold (4-2-1 manifold from the KE35) I have a Weber 32 DGR (aparently like DGV, with manual choke). This one was mounted on a Suzuki, and luckily I bought it already with the suzuki adaptor plate (it's the same for K engine, I already tried it and if fits perfectly). Now, anyone here knows what is the fuel pressure from the 4K pumps? Can I use the stock pump with the weber or do I need a regulator (or new pump and regulator)? I'm afraid that the 4K mechanical fuel pump might have too much pressure and could leave the carb leaking. Anyone can help on this? BR

Thanks I'll try to do a version of the blog in English, so that everyone can understand what I wrote there :)

Hi all. The problem is that I live in Portugal, and here it's very dificult to get a new one for the model. But I managed to a new one for starlet KP61 model, it's a little bit larger but it will fit, and just for 90€. Not bad :)

Hi all. My radiator is dead, lower hose tube is rotten and core has holes on it, so I need to replace it. The problem is that I can't find any Ke radiator sellting in Portugal, so I'll need to adapt. If I order some company to make a new one it will be around 250€, that's why I want to try to find one that easy fits there. Anyone knows of some replacement radiators that can fit (or easily adapt) on the Corolla KE35 (using K engine)? I already heard about the Honda Civic one, but the lower radiator tube on the civic is on the right side, and not on the left like the KE engine. Any help is good. Thanks in advance.

Hi all I bought 2 rebuild kits for the carbs. They were identified as kits for the KE10 carb, but I believe most of the parts are exactly the same so I bouth them (as they were cheap - less than 30€ for both, including delivery). So I started the dismantling and because I don't have carb cleaner I used thinner instead (after removing all the gaskets). I didn't found Carb cleaner in Portugal, what we have here is only the sprays, not the stuff to let the carb taking a "bath" :) So, after using thinner, I cleanned everything with gasoline, and mount it again, using the new parts and gaskets. These kits do some miracles, after mounting them on the intake manifold, I tried to start the engine, and after some seconds (they didn't have any gas on them) they started and kept idling :). I notice that the "power piston" (at least I think that it's name, the "nail" on top and middle on fthe carb - between the mouths) was stuck on both carbs, and the mixture screws were damaged - overtight. Now I think it's good, and I'll post a video the next time I go to the garage.

It was not on firing correctly. I turned the dizzy clockwise about 10deg and it sounded better (it looks like it revs higher now, at least by the sound), but it still dies if I take the choke off, so I guess is still too rich probably (I was using about 2 1/2 turns on the mixture screws). I'll have to rebuild the carbs because they are leaking, and also my radiator is leaking - need to get my hands on a good one. Thanks for everything guys.

Hi. When I put the distributor, it only entered on a position that was not supposed to (after I put the timing mark on 8 degrees). Then I rotated the dizzy until have a spark, and rotate it back a little. I'll try to rotate it a little bit to left and right while it's working to see if I can notice some changes. When you're asking about the points gap, you're talking about the gap that's created while the dizzy rotor spins? It should be around 1mm, right? And another thing. On the video I don't have a muffler, only the collectors straight to the end :) Probably it's too rich, you might be right - I was using 2 full turns on the mixture screws. No valve adjustment yet. I'll do that when I have more time for that. First I need to start putting all together again, because the car was stripped down for repairing and painting. BR José Martins

Hi all. Last friday I could start it again. I opened the mixture screws 2 full turns each and closed the choke and it started and kept idling. Check the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c47QsJSwNv4 But I noticed that it's leaking fuel while idling. I thinks it might be the sealants that are old, so I ordered 2 repair kits. Now I'll have to wait for the parts to fix the carbs. In the meanwhile I'll start putting everything together inside the car. I need to mount the dash, check electrical stuff, etc. I also need to get my hands on the right door inside panel (or I'll have to fabricate one).

Problems again. 2 days ago I could keep the engine running for about a minute, but yesterday I had problems trying to idle it correctly. Maybe it worked the day before because it was already warmed up. It could be more air that he can take and chockes (I'm trying this without the carb aircleaner). Anyone knows the initial mixture and throtle screws for trying to tune the dual 3K-B carbs? Maybe I start from there and if it works start trying to tune it a little bit. Another thing. Anyone here connects the crank case hose to the intake manifold? Or you use catch can or air breather? BR

Well, the carbs kept working yesterday, no need to pull the throttle to keep them alive. The PCV valve might be jammed. I'll try to "blow" the valve to check if it's good - it should only let the air pass from the crank case out, and not in, right? My distributor is from the 3K-B, it has a vacuum advance - it's the vacuum tube that goes to the first carb, right?

Man, this carbs are a complete cr@p! I took out the carb, cleaned the needle and put it on again. Then I noticed that when I pulled the throttle it didn't squirt gas as it should, and I didn't want to take out the carb again, so I managed to clean it with carb cleaner and a little tube. After that it would not iddle, but it looked good. So I remembered someone talking about the vacuum hoses. It only has 2, one from the crank case and other from the brake booster. I disconnected both and blocked the hoses and it idled!!!!!! :) Finally. Does the brake booster needs to have brake fluid on the system to have vacuum? If that's the case then I had my system empty because I'm still puting everything together. Now I have another problem. I noticed that the carbs, while idling, leak fuel from the vertical drum (the one that is activated by the throttle) because it has old rubber on top, and I'll probably need to change the rubbers. Anyone knows where to by those rubbers? I live in Portugal, so online shops would be great. thanks everyone

Hi Are you talking about the needle under the float? Or about the connection from the fuel line into the carb? Because I tried to take out that connection and could not - it was stuck, on both carbs. I didn't try anymore because was afraid to break something. lol.

Well. After some day without working on the car I returned. Switched the 4K fuel pump for a 3K fuel pump, and i got the same problem, so the problem was not from the pump. Then I remembered that when I installed the engine the intake gaskets where not very good. So I took off the carbs, then the 2 manifolds. I re-installed the manifolds but without the gaskets (instead used a sealant). Now the engine keeps working if I accelerate a bit. When it tries to idle it dies. Then I saw that there was fuel dripping from one of the barrels on one carb. Now I think that maybe the seals on the carbs are not good or the float level needs to be adjusted. I'll try to do that this weekend. Thanks for everything! :)

Well, in my lunch break I took some time and went home to try the mixing screws (this what you get if you work near home). I turned them clockwise to the max, and then 1/2 anti-clockwise. The engine started, and stopped after some 3 seconds. Then I turned 1/2 again anticlockwise and this time the engine stays like almost 10 seconds working, and then dies, but if I try the throttle it will die. I'll play a little bit more with the screws tomorrow to see if I can get the engine to idle.

Well, I believe there are only 2 vacuum lines - one from distributor to carb, and on from manifold to brake master cylinder (they are both connected). There is also another inlet from the valve cover connected. Clockwise or anticlockwise? I mean if I rotate the screw clockwise to the max it will get more air or less? The idle is around the 800rpm, right? BR

When I opened them they had fuel, but before i opened I turned upside down to let the fuel out (by the 2 top tubes). I should try to crank the engine, and after that open the carbs to check if they are full. The first thing I thought was that the fuel pump was not delivery enough fuel (even the fuel filter stays almost empty). I'll try to do a test with a bottle of fuel, hanged high and dropping fule directly to the inlet of the carbs, to see if they keep going. If that works then the problem should be on the pump.

No solenoid on them (old 3K-B didn't have them). that's correct. If I try to accelerate they also die. it doesn't idle, so I can't test it on the road. So the problem might be on the carbs, right?

Thanks for the fast response. So I should try to use the Mixture screws on the carbs, right (the little ones on the bottom). Clockwise is less fuel and the other way more fuel, right? Or am I wrong? I'll need them to balance the carbs. Or do you think that the problem might be related with the fuel bowls on the carbs? Maybe the float is not regulated correctly? I did open the carbs and checked the floats, and tried to regulate it to the specs on the manual (about 6mm from the base while upside-down, and about 1mm from the needle if straight up). But if the problem is with the floats I can open them again and try to use lower values.

Hi all I have a Corolla KE35, but swapped the engine with a 4K (the 3K-B was stuck), and I?m having trouble to put the engine working. I'm using the carbs from the 3K-B (so 2 carbs), because I don't have a new inlet manifold for just 1 carb. If I drop a litle bit of fuel into the carbs, the car starts at first, but after a few seconds it goes out (same thing if I accelerate). Now I already took of the carbs and cleaned the internal. I think they don't get enough fuel to keep up running, so I tried to do the test of the fuel pump (this one is the 4K fuel pump), and while revving the starter for about 30 seconds I got about 30cl of fuel to a bottle (about half of a 0,5 liter bottle). Is this the correct debit of fuel for 1 carb? I have the workshop manual for the 3K engine and the fuel pump for the 3K sends the double of the fuel. Today I'll try to swith the fuel pumps, to see the difference. Can anyone confirm if the 2 fuel pumps are so different? I would appreciate. BR