tylerrice
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Posts posted by tylerrice
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Hey all,
I'm selling my Sony Handycam DCR-DVD605E.
The Specs of it are:
Recording Format: Standard Definition, PAL, 4:3 or 16:9
Recording Media: DVD
Optical Zoom: 20x
Digital Zoom: 800x
Lens Focal Length: Carl Zeiss Vario-Tessar, F=1.8-3.1
Filter Diameter: 25mm
Output Interfaces: RCA
Features:
2.5" LCD Touch Screen
Night Shot which lets you video in pitch black.
Image Stabilizer
Photos and Video Capture
Exports ready to view on PC or formats to use straight in DVD player.
Comes with:
Camera
DVDs approx 4 (the mini ones for camera)
Carry Case
Charger
Screen Wiper
Condition:
Item has been used maybe once or twice on Christmas and Family Gatherings i think all i can notice is 1 small scratch on it but otherwise brand new.
Asking $300 ONO
Contact me Via SMS/Call on: 0402479196
Pickup or will post at buyers expense..
Thanks
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yeah i think I'm leaning towards the 5th gen Celica, Plenty hanging around on Car Sales/Cars Guide for not much at all, little higher on the K's but read a review saying they are still reliable even in the high K's.
**EDIT: found a nice 6th gen Celica, for $6500 that seems fair good and the person funding me likes it so fingers crossed...
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Hey all, Due to the recent few weeks and few problems with my Corolla i am on the hunt for a new daily. I'm running tight on the financial side so id say anywhere under the $5000 mark and would prefer not to have to pick it up from interstate...
I have done a little looking at this and that but not sure what to look at. I'm thinking a 4cyl that's sporty and has some power behind it.
so far i have aimed towards a Celica (Am loving This one)
what other cars would you recommend?
thanks tyler.
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Id love one of those Powerplant subs but can't afford that and the powerplant amp lol...
and the Boxes for the 12" have been made to suit the exact sub, from the manual, Same optimal capacity and all that...
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ok new theory.....
if i was to run a Fusion PP-AM300010 Amp (which is rated at 850 Watts RMS a Channel at 4 Ohms) to power 2x EN-SW120 Subs ( which are rated at 200 watts RMS and run at 4 ohms) in a series setup that would make the total load impedance 8 ohms right?
so that means:
Po = power output
Rp = amp's rated power
Ip = amps output impedance
Li = equivalent-load impedance
Pwr= Power delivered to Speaker/Sub
Po = Rp x (Ip / Li)
in my case: Po=850x(4/8) which is 425, the amount of watts being put out by that channel.
now to work out what each speaker/sub gets:
Pwr = Po x (Ip / Li)
again: 425x(4/8) which is 212.5, the amount of watts each of the subs will receive.
now that was an easy one to work out.... assuming its right :blinks: and if it is that means if i was to run that setup the subs will be receiving 12.5 watts too much power which I would say is fairly safe?
EDIT: I relies what i just worked out and how it could be done 100x simpler ;) (get the Rp in my case 850 and divide it by double the number of speakers in the series setup.... lol
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Yeah i know and I'm liking the fusion look and to me they sound good.. I'm sure if i parked next to someone with some DD, JBL or whatever system cranking id hear the difference but like i said I'm fair happy with it.
Just after a few details of how to set it up more so....
Next question is if i have an amp that puts out 170 Watts RMS per Channel at 4 ohms and 250 Watts RMS a Channel at 2 ohms and a 200 watt sub rated at 4 ohms is there a way to make that amp run at 2 ohms with just the one 4 ohm sub running off it?
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Yep they will only get 125 watts RMS each.
Just buy a better quality single 12" sub with a 400-500 watt RMS rating, and an amp with at least a matching output. Would shit all over the 2 12's you proposed and use up half the space.
Why do you run 2 sets of speakers in the rear? You'd be better off investing in a half decent set of front splits and amping them. Jaycar were selling their 6.5" Response Kevlar splits for $80 a set recently.
Good car sound is all about imaging, ie. getting your sound stage setup so that the sound appears to come from in front of you... Where does the sound come from at a concert? Not behind you.
i have 2 12" clarions in my boot. and they're good but not good enough.. they'd be of the saem quality as your fusions. i've compared this sound to a single soundstreamTurantula T5 10" woofer (900wrms) and it shits all over the 2 12's put together.
sound systems are really quite simple. GOOD quality gear. buy it once and don't buy again. spend $400 ish on 1 woofer and it'll be sweet. get an appropriate mono block. (jaycar response is great bang for buck here) and a high powered 4 channel. have a GOOD quality set of splits for the front for good sound and good staging. and have a set od 6" coax or similar in the back to balance the sound out.
done. not complex but effective. unless your gonna go into competitions then i wouldn't worry about goin any more exxy or complex.
Thanks for all the info guys but as i have said to my preferences i'm gonna stick with Fusion ;)
but all this other info your sharing with me is great help..
If i was to get an amp that has 850 Watts RMS a channel at 4 Ohms and ran the 12" 200 watt RMS Subs off that, it would be over powered but so long as i keep the amp volumes down would it be ok to run? or is there a way to run the amp power out put lower? I would have the subwoofers set up in Series but what if i was only running 1 for a bit?
Thanks again.
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So i have done a little reading and research and this is what i have come to...
sure if you want to blow out your rear window then 15 x 15" subwoofers is the way to go, but for good sound quality in a little corolla, a single 12" is sufficient.As id much like to keep the back window I think I will do a dual 12" setup.
In my personal opinion I have never liked fusion mutch.Heaps of people say that and when i receive my 6x9" 3-way speakers from my dad then the 4" ones from a friend both free and Fusion branded, I was merely taking what i could get with the littlest possible $ input. Had them wired to a Jensen head unit and the sound i was hearing was very nice and only ever got good comments about it. So from my experience Fusion is doing good... Looking at their stock list for sale and the prices keeps me happy, As i picked up the Fusion 10" sub + amp in the tube design box for $150 from a retail outlet and then the Fusion head unit for another $150.
How do you want to run the subs? Parallel/series?Well doing some reading around and research has led me to 2x EN-SW12ES (EN-SW120) and to run them a EN-AM60010 in Parallel.
The EN-AM60010 (Amp) has a Max Power rating of 600 watts and 250 watts RMS per channel at 2 ohms.
The EN-SW12ES (Sub) has a Max Power rating of 400 watts and 200 watts RMS, Its a single voice coil that's running at 4 ohms.
working this out that should make the two subs have a 2 ohm load which would make the amp put out 250 watts RMS per channel. Knowing that the two subs take 200 watts RMS each, Does this mean that they will be under powered getting roughly 125 watts each? or will it still put out 250 watts to each of the Subs? that is the one part that has me confused...
if so would i be better upgrading to something like RE-AM90010 which has a Max Power rating of 900 watts and 350 watts RMS per channel at 2 ohms. which would run each sub at 175 watts still a bit shy of 200 watts but not as bad.
some of the small monoblock kicker amps are pretty sweet, or the JL audio ones.and the JL audio subs are just really nice in general, but you pay a bit for them (400ish for a 12" i think)
and then go and buy a decent 4ch amp to run your front splits and rears. 4x 70w RMS will be plenty.
then if you have money to burn, a set of VR600 JL splits for the front. mmmmm they sound so good!!!
All of that sounds real good but the idea here is to have a full fusion system due to me liking what i have of theirs so far and as i said the price tag isn't going to give me a heart attack...
Thanks for your input, help and suggestions guys it is all much appreciated...
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2x Fusion 12" going to me pending payment no later than Friday.... thanks.
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Hi all, Thought I would share with you my current sound setup and get a few tips on expanding it...
Currently installed is the following:
Head Unit: Fusion CA-IP500
Front: some cheap US Audio or something 5" splits about 250-300watts
Back: Fusion EN-FR4020 (4" 2-Way Speakers 120watts) and Fusion EN-FR6930 (6x9" 3-Way Speakers 260watts)
Boot: Some cheap 4 Chan 320watt Amp running the two sets of back speakers and then the output RCA going to a Fusion EN-AT1100 (Active 10" Enclosure amp & sub 300watts)
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What i would like to do is:
have the head unit run to a Fusion EN-AM60010 Mono Block Amplifier which is running two Fusion EN-SW150 15" Subwoofers (or if possible run two Fusion RE-SW150 15" Subwoofers because they are $10 more) then have a Fusion EN-AM30020 2 Channel Amplifier running my 4" and 6x9" speakers.
Is that possible to do I'm not 100% on all this and can't figure out if the mono block can run the two 15" subwoofers and if its ok to have the 4" and 6x9" speakers running off a 2 channel amp (would have the left 4" and left 6x9" wired to the same screw terminal and same with the right)
Also is there any loss/benefit in running the amps in a daisy chain sort of thing? like I'm running it now but i don't know the pros and cons of it....
PS: If you haven't noticed I'm aiming for a Fusion themed setup for the following reasons: 1. i like the green look of the encounter range 2. i like the price tag of the encounter range 3. because i can :dance:
Thanks for any help and tips it is much appreciated.
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Start with it straight on top of the carb, it should fit with the clamp holding it on. The disadvantage of that is the warm air it sucks into the engine, which is less dense than the cold air outside the car, however the difference is not enough to worry about at this stage.
Later you can put a gooseneck plastic/rubber tube that curves from the top of the carb into a straight pipe down to the filter where it sits beside the radiator getting cold air from behind the grill.
ahh k i thought having it straight on the carb wouldn't work...
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Great thanks, will look in to it....
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photos of front and rear bumpers please?
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ok cool, wheres this place in Modbury?
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Ok cool well, i have taken the carby off a few times here and there for no good reason. Its sitting in a few pieces in a tub of petrol for tonight part of tomorrow... I also have a Rampod filter or whatever it is (mushroom like filter) brand new, but no piping to connect it up. any websites that sell the piping and any way you would recommend of how to hook it up as in where the pod is best sitting?
Also when i... quote: "Rip the head off and clean all of the carbon off and grind out pitting and cast dags. Do not grind away too much material if you are cleaning up the combustion chambers!!
Get the valves and valve seats reground."
how is this done if i asked a mechanic to do it would he be able to with his tools, as I'm assuming i don't have all the tools at hand...
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About the Small Mods on the engine.... I'm looking for small simple things that will help improve general running and power...
Should i look at extractors? if i got some would they fit right on with the current exhaust (or minor modifications)?
what else should i look at?
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lol.. shhhh... I know you all laugh at me behind my back :yes: but engine hat is a dam fine name for the rocker cover!! rofl
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ok well I'll look at getting that manual, and I might just do it as id love to polish up that engine hat :) haha. (assumes you read some old posts?) rofl... but yes very good idea and you guys are great with all the info your feeding me...
Thanks all
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Half an hour on Google will give you the 'how-to' with lots of pictures on various cars.
You will need a 14mm, 12mm spanners (preferably ring/open style if you're going to buy them) a flatblade screwdriver and a set of feeler gauges.
These are feeler gauges, (Thickness gauges) get them from Repco or Supercheap etc
http://www.beamar.com/Precision_Tools_Gage...th%20texas.html
haha looks around and thinks he will ask the mechanic to check them -.- ima fuk it up knowing me.... but thanks :)
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Check the tappets yourself over the weekend.
If a valve has burned into the seat it will have no tappet gap and the valve will be held open, so there will be a loss of compression on that cylinder. If you are lucky you can adjust them to the correct gap and solve the problem completely.
Easy to do, and if you haven't done it Tyler, its time to learn!
If they are all OK, then do a compression test before you spend money on anything else. That's a sick little engine you have there, a genuine three cylinder!
haha ok that sounds all well and good to do... but what is involved in doing this? maybe some more info on it :) thanks for all the info and help guys.
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yeah but hes been good, like i get over a year to pay back any services and parts... the only thing is he had it for half a day fixed a few things like the barrels on back wheels and the little white thing right next to the ignition coil so i didn't have to bypass it then he noticed and i needed the car... so hes getting it back next week but i would like more info on it as he was fair confused.
maybe the 2cly thing? but it seems when you pull the other 3 spark leads out the engine slows a bit/struggles... will get a compression test next week on it...
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Pull the first plug out and see if you have spark in the chamber. You might have a dodgey sparkplug.
The spark plug has been taken out and a different one tried with no change, I think i might have herd the mechanic say it sometimes cuts in and out which is what has got him confused...
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If removing the #4 plug makes not difference then its running on 3 cylinders..... which you should really be able to tell to start with! Does it sound sort of like a WRX when you rev it?
A dropped cylinder can be caused by a few things:
No fuel - But this is very unlikely for a 4kc given all other cylinders have fuel.
Lack of compression - Either a stuck valve or dodgy rings can cause this. Doing a compression test will quickly confirm or deny it.
No spark - This is the most likely cause. Could be a dead spark plug, faulty plug lead, or maybe even the dizzy cap. Try swapping a plug and lead from another cylinder and see if the dead cylinder is still #4 or the one that you swapped the suspected faulty plug/lead onto.
Its probably not a bad idea to just re-build your whole ignition! I know that might sound intesive and expensive but its not really. If you head down to supercheap auto you should be able to get:
New NGK plug
Bosch supersport plug lead set
New point and condenser
New rotor cap and buttom
.....for for under $50!!!! I don't mind buying that sort of stuff from SCA as its all branded.
Replace all of that, re-set your plug gaps, points and timing and if you're still only running on 3 then I start looking at the stuck valve scenario.
It has just had all the ignition done before the drive back and all the same parts you described for supercheap (apart from the leads that i have had for about 4months which are topgear performance leads, spiral wire and lower resistance or something)
Tried changing the leads around and what not but still nothing and when you put the lead close to the spark plug while the car is running it clicks away...
so maybe compression problem, is that a normal thing for mechanics to check? because he seems fairly confused to what is going on...
Thanks
Sony Handycam For Sale..
in For Sale - Other (non-automotive)
Posted
200 ono