gtnickk Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Hi folks, Just intstalled a single 40mm weber Dcoe on my Ke55, but can't work out how to make the throttle linkage work, if any one can posts pics of there setups that what be great, that way i can see what parts i need, might have or are missing, thanks Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chairs with Flares Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 (edited) Do you have some parts of a linkage setup and are missing pieces? Or trying to work out which type of linkage to use? While a twin/multi DCOE setup needs adjustable linkages to sync the butterflies between the carbs, a single DCOE just needs the throttle cable to pull the throttle open. Googleing 'single DCOE' may give you some ideas... This is the generic type of linkage commonly used, that translates cable movement pulling on the bit sticking up to the throttle wheel (big round thing with holes). Even simpler would be just to have the cable pulling straight onto the wheel itself using a universal cable end. I have my twin Solex's set up to pull straight from the wheel this way with a 'tongue linkage' to sync the carbs (irrelevant for a single carb). You have to be careful doing it this way though; if the (full open) throttle stop is at the other end of the throttle shaft to the wheel, the shaft can be twisted when you stomp on the pedal since it's being pulled on one end of the shaft and a stopped on the other. The throttle wheel I used was only a semi-circle, so I made up a full throttle stop that the wheel hits at full throttle. (You can see on my setup as the cable pulls the throttle open, the wheel will hit the alloy tab when the butterflies are fully open. The cable attaches to the wheel by the way of a bolt with a hole drilled in it and some nuts, adjusted so it can pivot. You can also buy this, it's called a cable trunion. It's not fancy or shiny and has been called dodgy by some, but it's been working fine for two years without any issues. You'll want an extra throttle return spring to close the throttles too. You can get various lengths from Bunnings to hook up the the linkage to help pull the throttle shut. You want it working as close to (against) the cable as possible, and not on the other side of the shaft, again the twisting issue, although the spring tension shouldn't be high enough to cause damage. Just a thought for the long term (Mine has the throttle return spring on the other side between my two carbs, not optimal. Best would be pulling on the throttle wheel against the cable, I'll sort that out someday...) Edited October 31, 2013 by Chairs with Flares Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtnickk Posted October 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Thanks for those photos, will muck around with the second option tonight. Cheers Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chairs with Flares Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 Just keep in mind that the throttle wheel needs around 90 degrees of movement from fully closed to fully open when locating your cable bracket. Ideally, you want the pedal travel to match the butterflies so that full pedal travel (bottomed out) equals fully open throttle, otherwise the throttles are open against the stop and you just stretch the cable. You can get around this with a throttle pedal stop on hte firewal adjusted to prevent the pedal from being pushed further and bending/stretching things. Adjustable bonnet stops/rubbers are good for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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