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JDMJared

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Posts posted by JDMJared

  1. I put R31 control arms in my KE55 (cause I had them lying around), should be the same as KE70 yeah? It was a pretty dodgy job, if you're not a ghetto fix sort of guy I wouldn't suggest it.....

     

    Anywho KE55's have 10mm or so bolt for the crossmember -> control arm

    R31's have a bolt with a 10mm or so thread but a 14mm or so body, so I drilled the rear holes of my crossmember out with some drillbit I had lying around which happened to be the right size (can't remember what size but about 14mm). Like I said the thread is the same size so you only have to drill out one hole for each side. By some chance the bolts were the perfect length and the bushes the correct width so it turned out pretty damn snug in the end.

     

    The second problem is the ball joints, the R31 has giant huge ʞ©$ɟ-off indestructible bolts for the ball joins -The tapers will NOT fit stock KE55 steering arms, but since they're so giant huge ʞ©$ɟ-off indestructible you can just bolt them in anyway and get heaps sick roll centers.

    ~I just read you're using s13 hubs (durr) so NM this part, but *THEMOREYOUKNOW!*~

     

    My stock KE55 tie rods had more than enough adjustment to be used with the longer control arms because steering boxes kick arse, since you have a homosexual rack I don't know if you'll have the same luck.

     

    Caster rod holes I redrilled heaps futher out, which allowed me to wind in dickloads of castor with stock rods -I can suggest this!

     

    Here's an illustration I prepared in super special christmas colours:

    R31LCAKE55.jpg

  2. ANother manifold too keep a keen eye out for is the "SK Sanyo " veeery rare for a k series but also one of the best

    also TRD but we all know that

     

    Yeah there's one of those on Yahoo atm, used, $200ish, looks like a decent manifold.

  3. Mmmm, Kameari, so pretty! If only I could justify that on K.

     

    If any motor is worth it, it's the K motor!

    The manifolds go for about $350 on Yahoo auctions

    + postage to Streeter

    + Streeters commision

    + postage to Aus

    You might get one for $500 to your door.

    And you know it's going to be top shit, Kameari are the go to guys for L-series - they make a mean looking set of 6-1 extractors.

  4. 4K will go to 9500rpm 10000rpm all day hyundai!!!! The feral 4k were running has a huuuge KELFORD camshaft "DATRALLY" spec 500+lift and around 330 degrees duration (yep 330 idles at 1800rpm with around 36degrees of advance) powerband 4500 to 9800rpm twin 45 dellortos seriously ported 3k big port, pacemaker tuned length extractors KAMINARI inlet manifold (redline, lynx etc rubbish for hi rpm) Also none of the frankenstein kinda internal stuff goin on here, the 4k engine was severley overengineered from the factory and can handle an amazing amount of abuse, so no pretty roller rockers datto pushrods or anything, and i wouldnt put holden 202 bits in my lawnmower lol. At the end of the day theyre not expensive engines to start with just rev em till they snap and build a new one hope this helps

     

    I'm guessing you probably mean "KAMEARI" inlet manifold, they do look a lot better than redline ones (who I'm certain never actually looked at a K motor):

     

    http://www.kameariusa.com/4Kproducts.php

     

    It's good to know your K motor takes such a punishing!

  5. You would have to cc the head, measure piston height at TDC and figure out the the thickness of your headgasket (after it is compressed) to work it out properly. Even after all that, figuring out how much to take off the head for desired CR would be a bit of a guess.

     

    If I were in your position, provided the head you are using hasn't been shaved before, I'd take about a millimetre off - it might bump you up around 9:1 but that won't be a problem. You sure as shit won't have any problems with valve clearance untill about the 4mm mark, and a little extra compression on a tired old 3k won't do no harm.

  6. Yeah man the Hr31 in my pic, semi-trailing single wishbone IRS just like the 1600, they get very similar ammounts of camber. Was proper low too, had -4deg easy.

    In my experience a couple of degrees too much camber is better than none at all.

     

    But I guess if Ben were to go through the huge pain in the arse involved in fitting IRS to a leaf sprung corolla he might as well go all out and put the latest greatest multi-link under her.

  7. Hi there,

     

    In your first post / 3 photo on the left is a KE55 tank and the other is a KE30/35 tank … well it’s the same as in my KE35.

     

    Everything is factory with regards to the spot welded in big plugs/ bungs things.

     

    On My KE35 I have the fuel sender (gauge sender) on the driver’s side and the fuel pick up located on the top.

     

    I have modified mine just like the tank you have come across

     

    Have a read of this thread starting from thread number 107 (it might make a little more sense from what I have tried to explain).

     

    http://www.rollaclub...e/page__st__105

     

    Mystery solved!!!!!!!!!

    Thanks mate you're a genius, looks like an easy fuel tank to modify for EFI. You should throw your conversion up in the Wiki.

  8. Someone mounted an in tank pump at some stage.

     

    But it looks to be spot welded in there, and very factory looking spot welds at that! Who would be nuts enough to weld a fuel tank?

     

     

    kicks the hell outa that finish on the concrete wall behind it :P:

     

    Hey come on man, my land lord is some 80 year old polish lady who lives in a shack in the back yard - it was the best she could do.... (you should see when she paints something)

  9. Hey guys!

    My Ke55 came with a mysterious fuel tank which houses an electric in-tank fuel pump, it looks and fits like a factory one. What's really got me puzzled is; what car did it come from? I don't know of any e30-55's which had EFI and e70-80's usually have a tank which sits under the boot..... quite a mystery!

     

    Stock (no pump) tank:

    IMG_8829_zps9f7fae0d.jpg

     

     

    Mystery electric pump tank:

    IMG_8830_zps43f622cd.jpg

     

     

    Both:

    IMG_8831_zps4f940c25.jpg

     

     

    Stock - note one only pickup, in the center:

    IMG_8833_zps7aa46e7f.jpg

     

     

    Mystery - note the extra pickup which houses the electric pump:

    IMG_8832_zps197a83d6.jpg

     

     

    Closer look:

    IMG_8834_zpsf47bb34f.jpg

     

    So what do you reckon guys?

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