darkage

Cheers Carbonboy, Just started researching Dellorto options now. First I'll get more welding experience under my belt and see how I go with building my new exhaust for my 300zx. Wouldn't mind having a go at making up my own extractors for the rolla. . Think only at that stage I'll have a play with carby options. Would remind me of the good old days of my Datsun 260z twin SU's and no efi :)

I haven't really looked into this but would a new window regulator help ? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Corolla-Seca-Front-Right-Window-Regulator-89-94-/130521038879?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&fits=Plat_Gen%3AAE92&hash=item1e63a9001f You can use lithium grease on the tracks, but best to check what kind of grease is already on there. white/dark/creme colour ? Its not good to mix different types of greases together.

Whats the best Carby option for a 4afc engine ? Been looking at Weber 32/36 but they come in different flavours. ie - DGV (manual choke), DGEV (electric choke), DGAV (water choke) Also is it possible to adapt sidedraft trumpets ? Whats the best setup out of all of them ?

Cool thanks all for the input! saw the cheap ae92 where the owner said didnt have rust around the windscreen. ha! it had rust! just like every other ae92 out there. .. I did get myself a MIG welder on the weekend so now onto practising overlapping spotwelding on scrap thin sheet metal :) and finish off grinding the rest of the rust off..

I found a nearby cheap AE92 Hatch which seems a bit too good to miss, looks like it has been taken care of to a certain degree, recently unregistered, and sub $500 price. Hoping it has better condition body than my old freebie ae92 rusted out windscreen sill example. Just wanted to ask, what signs do you look for in order to spot if the windscreen is still factory original or has been replaced ? I know if the rubber seal easily lifts from the body and you check underneath thats a very bad sign to start with. but yeah I get the impression with factory seals they seem to be poor anyways. Edit - I think I figured it out. 3 piece mould where it has the silver "L" trim in the upper corners is likely to be factory standard. My Freebie AE92 had a 1 piece mould so obviously was scratched up bad and never painted underneath so in theory this new AE92 on the agenda should have less rust hopefully just a little bit on the pillar sill just underneath the corner. My freebie corolla has alot of tiny holes in the start of the roof skin all along the top of the windscreen sill

Got the car for free so doesn't really matter that much. I've enrolled in a MIG welding course, something that I always wanted to do.. If things don't work out, at least I've got a practise car to learn how to weld and panel work on even if it doesn't end up on the road. :) So happy still in the end that I have something to learn on :)

Ha! I didn't think it was that Epic.. My first car was a Datsun 260z, that rusted worse than cancer.. I remember leaning on the front guard and hearing the rust flakes fall to the ground. Anyways worth fixing or should I just keep the car in garage and use to practise body repairs :) FYI - This was pictures before wirebrushing and grinding

I've been pretty busy in the past year with work and fixing major problems with 2 other cars, my Nissan 300zx and sisters Holden Astra. Now I got those two other cars out of the way, next to focus on the Corolla. I took out the windscreen a few months ago and lightly went over it with a wirebrush on drill and grinding disc on a rotary, pictures below. The sill is heavily pitted with about 8 holes just on the lip of the roof skin, biggest hole is on the passenger side where it allowed water to enter into the cabin. Passenger pillar has some tightly grouped rust holes as well and thats it for the holes.. Just heavily pitted, not much area that I can grind back to shiny flat metal. How do you rate window sill ? Worth repairing with rust convertor/fibreglass? Have been thinking about taking a tafe welding course since I would love to learn a new skill like that, but probably take me too long to develop my skill so hence the quick fix fibreglass to get my wife onto the road. Shes a dangerous driver so a newer 2nd hand car wouldn't be wise, since I'm expecting a few dents within the first years of her driving. Best to let her gain experience first then move onto a newer car. Have also been looking out on ebay/gumtree/carsales for better body example Corollas of same model but with mechanical problems just incase theres one dirty cheap.. Repair cost vs another better body example etc. Appreciate the feedback :) This forum rocks. Pictures after wire brushing/grinding.

Good point. Car is located in Mulgrave, Vic.. I might get the wife to call up some chinese bodywork shops in her native language see how much it costs for special price, if not yep I have to bite the bullet take out the glass see whats going on there behind the scenes.. might get a surprise.. not sure if a good one or bad one :) I'll definitely post more photos

Yeah damn crack! Thats why I have been storing this car in the garage for so long wondering what to do with it.. I'm fine with working with fibreglass filling, but definitely not at the welding in new metal stage.. Thats one issue, how to know its been repaired properly if I havent attempted such a repair before.. I guess as long as its a solid, smooth surface for the glass then it should be okay in theory.. How much would it roughly cost to get the windscreen frame professionally repaired.. I was thinking something like $500 to $750 perhaps?

I was very hesitant to take out the windscreen since I know the rust behind it will be worse (its always worse below the surface) plus if I have huge holes there last thing I want to do is weld in new metal etc.. I've researched the type of crack in the windscreen I think its a spider crack.. I believe these types of cracks can't really be repaired so have to get a new windscreen. I haven't done any body work before, I'm fine with mechanical work.. Whats the best way to treat the rust.. Wirebrush it out, sand it back, rust convert it, then fibreglass the holes or bog? Is there any special way that the surface has to be prepared in order for the new windscreen to have proper adhesion. Not sure if its worth getting it professional treated just for the windscreen area. I was thinking of a budget of $800 to fix up the car.. new tyres / brakes being the major component. So far spent $90 on a new battery :) I think its about $75 for a Unregistered vehicle permit. Really don't want to spend too much until I get confirmation that its worthy of a fix up I guess it might be wise to get all the indicators working on it again, get a unregistered permit for it, and take it down to a RWC centre to get a opinion on it. Many thanks for your helpful suggestions :)

I was given a free Corolla AE92 91 or 92 model with 4AF engine I think. I was going to bring it up to RWC for my wife to learn to drive and to use as a cheap run about, but I came across rust around the windscreen. I've looked under the rubber and used a screwdriver to pick at it to see how bad it is.. looks like its mostly surface rust with some spots here and there with a 1 mm or so of rust flaking off.. I think where it flakes off is probably where the rust holes are leaking some water from the top into the cabin.... Pretty much right around the rubber seal is rust to some degree. Theres a crack in the windscreen on the drivers side, if it wasn't for that I would have brought the car to RWC and just used silicon around the rubbers. Not sure if I can get the crack resin filled then I could leave in the windscreen and silicon it. So now I'm tossing up if I should fix the AE92 or purchase a 2000+ year model $5000 car which will be a little bit more comfortable.. I was thinking since wife is learning to drive its okay for the AE92 to get a dent here or there plus its a nice small car, but on the other hand if I want to go on a long country drive with family then a $5000 car is probably more better suited for that.. I normally drive a 2 seater Nissan 300zx (z32), so can't really take more than 2 people in that.. :( For AE92 RWC I think I just need, 1x new ball joint for steering, seat belts replaced, indicators repaired, new rear hatch door, new tyres/brake discs & drums./brake pads and windscreen crack free. I would be greatful if anyone can give me a honest opinion if its worth fixing the Corolla or if I should go the new-old $5000 car route. Heres pictures of behind the windscreen rubber and crack in the windscreen. I assume I should be able to wire brush it out, chemically treat it then bog the holes, if its worth it in the end of course?? So just need a opinion on that.. Many thanks in advance! Edit - Its clocked about 230,000k but the engine has alot of grunt left in it. Actually it really surprised me since its the first gutsy 4 cyl I've ever driven before.. I thought it was more fun it drive than my 300zx.